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It was not as significant improvement as our 1994 Sig - non Tag, but I could sense an improvement. Paul

Dick, I have a front Watts Link on an S-10 chassis. Paul

Call Paul Maddox from HWH ((602) 549-3638) with the part numbers. He can supply the correct replacement chains. He is in AZ. I was not able to replace the chain in place, but others have. I even struggled to get the chain installed with the X-Slide on the bench and had to drill some of the holes for the 1/4” bolts that replaced the pins oversize. Paul

There are a couple different models. On one model, the mechanism is attached to the porcelain and comes away from the floor in one piece. The mechanism is attached to the porcelain with J bolts which are torqued to 20-25 INCH lbs. I use a deep socket on a 3/8” drive extension and tighten it by hand (no ratchet). It is easy to break the porcelain if you torque them down too hard. I have found that it pays to make sure the mechanism is aligned with the porcelain and that the end of the motor drive lines up with the hole in the porcelain in the left side, if you have one. When ours was out, I ordered a new flapper, shaft, and seal, but I put it back before they arrived. I took care to clean it, align it and torque it down evenly. I also applied plumbers grease to the seal. It holds water for weeks with the old seal, The other model has the mechanism screwed to the floor, then the porcelain mounts over it. I have a mechanism, but have never seen the porcelain. I would expect that the alignment is very important for this model too. The manual is in the downloads section This looks close and should prove helpful. https://www.seabreeze-industries.com.au/files/ResourcePDF/Vacuflush_Seals_and_Ball_Replacement.pdf Paul

Red - Items and wires to remove these Blue - New ML-ACR Yellow - Chassis batteries connection to ML-ACR Purple - House batteries connection to ML-ACR You need to make the small wire connections to the ML-ACR

Hi Michael, We all feel overwhelmed at times. Just keep chipping away at things and the list will finally get done. Focus on the ones that would prevent your trip from happening, and do the others as time permits. The members here will provide support on each issue you are facing. The amount on knowledge on Monacoers is incredible. Paul

Hi Michael, Best I can tell, the IRD is in the front run bay, but the relay that connects the two banks together is in the RRB. You would install the ML-ACR in place of the Trombetta in the RRB. You may be able to reuse the wire for the IrD and the wire for the Battery Boost to connect the Bluesea switch and the ML-ACR. Paul

Hi Michael, That is different from other coaches I have worked on. A few questions: 1 Is the relay in the RRB for the Salesman Switch? 2 Is the relay in the FRB for combining the battery banks? 3 Do you have a Battery Boost switch? 4 If so, does it make the relay in the FRB click? 5 Is there a part number on the relay in the FRB? 6 Do you have wiring diagrams for the FRB? Thanks Paul

Michael, I have installed a few of the ML-ACR’s in different coaches. Can you post a picture of your bay with the existing wiring (Big Boy, Trombetta, etc) and we can see how you could proceed? Paul

We were camping this weekend and it was time to dump and refill the fresh water tank. I pulled the paddle handle, and it partially broke. Fortunately I was planning on upgrading to chrome handles and I had the replacement on hand to study and replace the old one when I got it out. The paddle operates a shaft with a cam on the end that rotates a plate that has four arms with holes for various installations. There is also a locking mechanism that prevents the plate from rotating when locked. One end of the shaft is round (approximately 8.7mm) and the other is a Double-D (approximately 5mm across the flats). I studied the replacement and was planning on drilling some holes to be able to rotate the plate, but when I examined the the failed lock I found I could pry the old paddle off and turn the shaft with a 1/4” wrench to get the bay door open and replace the paddle mechanism. I did have to drill out the hole that the lock mechanism shaft went into It was a little too small. This handle is on one of the bays that cantilevers up. Note that Monaco riveted a plate over the lower section to provide somewhere on the handle to pull the bay door down. Paul

Hi all, I would like to bid on an auction for some electronics equipment in Bedford that ends on Tuesday. It is a few boxes approximately 12x12x12”. I have called and emailed the company that is supposed to be able to ship items from this auction, but no response yet. If I won and can’t get the shipping company to help, would anyone be able to pick the boxes and ship them to me at my expense? Thanks in advance! Paul

Rollers break off the chain, then the rivets wear and can break. The rollers that break are near the top, so easy to see. I’ll post some pics when we get home. Paul

All fixed. For me the secret was to take more stuff off which gave clearance to work and to exercise the X-Slider to bleed the system and synchronize the cylinders. Thanks to all for information and pointers. They were all helpful. Paul

Chris @throgmartin kindly sent me a sample of Trim Lok X2877BT. That looks like it will be a good replacement for the Girard T seal for the main awning and the door awning on our 2005 Signature. It has 7/8” 3M VHB on the thick end which would stick to the sidewall. You could either use a trim adhesive or a 3/8” 3M VHB tape to fasten it to the top of the awning housing, then caulk both edges to keep it watertight. I would use the 3M adhesion promoter shown in my post for the RV side, and the foam side if you add VHB. That seal is shown in the first two pictures. The second two pictures are of the other seal I suggested. I think the one Chris @throgmartin sent me is the best choice.

I have talked to multiple people for advice, so now I have multiple options on how to proceed. 😀 Here are some pictures of where I am at the moment. Next steps are to remove more stuff. Thanks to all.

I had heard some unusual noises from the rear of the front passenger slide and found a couple of rollers had broken off the chain. I was aware of the problem from @Mocephus’s similar issue just after we met in Ocala. I ordered new chains from Paul Maddox. I tried to replace the rear chain in place (like I saw on YouTube) and quickly decided I couldn’t do it. I removed the slide mechanism and replaced the chain on the bench and replaced the mechanism. (That was a lot easier to write than do. I had to my giant frien Ed to come help me get it out. I just could not lift it by myself from behind the Corian countertop. I also had to remove the trim piece from above the fridge to get it out.) I spoke to Paul Maddox again and he said to disconnect the other end from the slide, remove everything that was hanging off it top and bottom, and then cycle the mechanism to get the air out and to synchronize the cylinders. I started to disconnect the top and bottom mounts on the front of the slide, but they seem to be bound up and it is not clear how I can get enough clearance to get this apart. It is also unclear how I would exercise the slide without hitting the slide and causing damage. Perhaps I have to disassemble some more to create the necessary clearance. I have the vertical wood trim removed, but not the aluminum angle. I found @CountryB’s post over on IRV2 https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/hwh-x-slide-question-how-do-you-get-the-cyl-out-425180.html and spoke to Mike today, and will call him again tomorrow. Has anyone else worked on these before?

Do they look like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JQDLS8G These are chrome. Paul

Thanks for the pointer @Ivan K I checked the 1A fused marked DGN PWR and found it was blown. I replaced it and the ScanGauge D started working again. Thanks also to ScanGauge who provided unquestioning support for a product that was nearing the end of a long warranty period. One piece of data I would really like to display on this is the transmission gear selected. It is available on the Aladdin, and is not a standard field on the ScanGauge D, so I will scan the PID data again and check with ScanGauge to see if it is available as a X-Gauge. Paul

I also think this edge flap seal would work: Sponge Rubber Flap Seal | .250" Bottom Width - Flaps & Corner Sections - Trim-Lok (trimlok.com) I have requested samples from Tri-Mark for this and the one in the previous post. I have only found these two available in 100ft lengths for around $250, which is much less than $6/foot quoted above from Girard. If they work out, I would be happy to split the cost with others. We only need approximately 25ft to reseal the main awning and the door awning on our 2005 Monaco Signature, so looking for 3 others with similar needs.

This trim may work for the main awning adding tape to the edge of the round part like in my link above. https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extrusion/epdm-seal/p-profile/2452-series Paul

I’ve had my ScanGauge D for a couple years plugged into the diagnostic port by drivers left knee, but last trip it was not working. Display was blank. I also tried plugging into the engine bay diagnostic port. Engine and transmission data is available via the Aladdin system. I called ScanGauge and described my problem. They had me send it in to have it checked out. They found no issue, but sent a different unit back, which also doesn’t work. Has anyone else had the same issue? Paul

See if this post helps. It was for the slide toppers and the window awnings on our 2005 Signature. I am not sure this seal would work for the main awning. Our main awning and the door awning have a different type of seal from Monaco, shaped like a large T. Girard recommended the same thing for the slide toppers and window awnings, but I think it would be too big. Paul

The fourth wire will be Audio from the rear camera. Paul

I used this. Southwire 19190008 6/3 & 8/1 SEOW 50 Amp, 125/250-Volt Outdoor Extension Cord CA-Style CS63 Twist-Lock, Custom Blended Jacket, Extra Hard Usage Cord, 100-Feet, 100-Foot, BlackMore information: I removed the connectors and got enough installed that I have 50ft outside the coach when it is all out of the powered Glendinning cord that drops into a container. It is much smaller diameter and more flexible than the original Glendinning cable. Glendinning has different sized drive rollers for the smaller diameter cable. It is normally priced around $300, not the current $500+ it is currently showing. Check for other sources. Paul

In our 1994 Signature it was in the front run bay, below the driver’s window. Paul