pwhittle

Hi @grizzly, Check with @Idoc57, and see if he can help. if not, let me see what I can do. Paul

I posted the .STL files: If you know someone that can 3D Print, they can process these files for their particular printer and make some for you. Paul

I used: Steppper motors: ECCPP 4Pcs X27 168 Stepper Motor for Instrument Cluster Gauge Speedometer Kit https://a.co/d/3Rbd6SD Capacitors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202744805311Paul

I had some success today! My front air pressure gauge would not work when it was cold. I took it apart and put it in the fridge for a while, then applied GND and 12v to the input pins. I could hear it trying to start, and when it got warm it would return the needle to the home position. I replaced the capacitors per the YouTube video, and tested it again, and it still worked! I put it in the freezer for 30 mins and tested it again, and it worked! I also had a failed air gauge that would not even make a noise when power was applied. I replaced the capacitors, with no improvement. I also changed the stepper motor and applied power, and the needle returned to the home position! I tested both repaired gauges in the coach, and they both work as expected! Thanks @Mike H for searching down the info that showed us the fix! Paul

Capacitors can wear out over time and are a common failure point. Did you try changing out the stepper motor on one yet? Paul

I watched the YouTube video, and he is replacing a couple of capacitors as well. I think I have an extra faulty gauge that someone sent me after they replaced theirs so I will try this out. I will probably 3D print a jig to hold the gauge in so the bezel does not get scratched, and maybe to re-crimp the bezel. Paul

One of my air pressure gauges doesn’t always start up when it Is cold, but normally does when it it warm. The same for my fuel pressure gauge. I can hear a faint noise that is the gauges trying to restart repeatedly. I suspect something in the power supply in the gauge rather that the stepper motor on mine. I don’t have a solution to offer up. Paul

These could also be 3D printed. I have done the same type of thing for Aladdin Joysticks. Paul

The rear cameras often have a microphone in them. Perhaps you are hearing that when in reverse. Paul

I helped someone who had the same setup as yours, but his keypad was programmed incorrectly. We were able to work out what it was supposed to be and reprogrammed his keypad. His module labels and the circuit diagrams did not match up with the Intellitec. The Intellitec has some special logic to toggle one of three outputs on from one key press. if I recall correctly, they were next to each other, so check all the output fuses on the module. Paul .

Hi Bob, That is my “Want to do” list, but I don’t seem to be able to get through mr “Have to do” list. 😀 Paul Hi Bart, The only thing that is tough to find are the Monaco specific keypads. I have been able to get a few at different times, but I only have a couple left. Intellitec still makes keypads that will work, but they are a different size and would look different. Paul

I have had good luck with support from BlueSea. I would try calling. Paul

STL is STereo Lithography, and is the 3D model that you run through a slicer program to generate the commands for your printer and the filament you are going to print. PLA is not really water or heat resistant. ABS or PETG or ASA would be better. I pay about $22/kilogram for filament, so if they are providing the printer to do the printing, that is pretty fair. Paul

@olywrestle and @Martinvz, When you are ready, you can post the .STL files in our 3D Printer Files section. https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/57-3d-printer-files/ Paul

My Inbox was full. Cleared out now. I sent you a PM. Paul

Tom, The dip switches are to set the address of the output module. Typically the module has a big round sticker with the label on it too. In lieu of a wiring diagram of @FishAR’s coach, let’s get some pictures of what is there. A wide angle to show all the modules, then one of each module. Paul

The PMC output modules have their address in the system set by dip switches on the module. The keypad buttons are programmed to address an output on a specific module by combining the address of the output module and the output number on that module. If the output module is non-latching the button must continue to be pressed for the load to stay on. If the output is latching, each button press changes it from off to on. A FET latching output module will turn off and on with a short press, and vary between 8 levels if the button is pressed and held. Something in the system needs to provide the main signaling for the modules and the keypads to know when to send the signal on the PMC Multiplex bus. I would expect something like a Intellitec MultiPlex Control MASTER 00-00837-000 as the additional module, but there are various configurations available from Intellitec. Pictures of the modules will help identify the configuration.

These are a fairly simple circuit board, but it does have a microprocessor on it, so take some care. I can program one without the original, but it is easier with the original. Can you PM me some pictures of the modules in the closet? I’ll look to see what I have available. Paul

Unplugging one keypad should not stop the others from working, but unplugging it while the system is running can confuse things. Try tuning the house 12V off and on to let the Intellitec system restart to get rid of the backlighting. You can use the Salesman Switch, or the House Battery disconnect switch. My guess is your switch panel has failed and needs replacing. The Monaco keypads are NLA from Intellitec, but I have a small number of them. I have had one switch panel fail, and seen a couple of other people’s switch panels fail. I have also seen some individual buttons become intermittent, and have been able to repair them.

Rev still sells the original design. Link is in the in post with the 3D file. I have had the 3D printed ones on for a few months now, and they are working well. Paul

I ended up pulling the mechanism to replace the chain on the rear end of the same slide. I had to call in a friend because once it was all loose I could not lift it myself. It scratched the paint on the side of the slide, but that was not an issue as it was scheduled to go in for paint anyway. I had to remove the panel over the fridge to get it out too. See how much clearance you can make by removing wood trim. I think I even removed a cabinet under the countertop to get in there. if the fasteners have pulled out, drill new holes so that the new fasteners are going into new wall. I bought the chain from Paul Maddox/HWH. It was a tough job. Best of luck with it! Paul

I am an Intellitec reseller. I can backup and program the CPU’s and Keypads. I am also able to purchase parts directly from Intellitec, if they are available. Unfortunately the keypads that they made for Monaco were custom to Monaco, and no longer available. Other Intellitec keypads will work functionally, but they are a different size and shape and would require the hole to be opened up to mount them. if we are ever together(with any of you), I am happy to make a backup of your Intellitec CPU. No charge. I backed up quite a few at the last Gathering. I have had some people stop by our place in Woodstock, GA so we can back up their Intellitec CPU. The last one had a faulty switch panel and I had one available and was able to get them going. On the 2006 Signature I was working on with the issue I asked about, I found what looked like a faulty keypad, I was getting ready to install a replacement, but saw one of the pins in the harness had backed out, and I was able to fix it without replacing the keypad. The modules we found are 4-Channel 12V H-bridge modules. Each channel has two outputs and the direction is changed by reversing the polarity of the two outputs. These will work directly with DC motors like on the shades. We did not get to the awning controls which are 120V on our coach and operated wirelessly from a remote. Paul

Upcoming member has a 2006 Signature and had water in his main Intellitec CPU which caused all sorts of havoc as it was acting like all buttons were being pressed all the time. I was able to install a new CPU and get it programmed. Everything worked except the shade and awning modules which are installed behind an access panel in the center cabinet above the dash. There is a 12 GA red wire supplying power to the 4 Quad H-Bridge a Intellitec modules that is reading 2V rather than 12V. The wiring diagram for the 2006 Dynasty shows those modules as an option powered from the FRB, but we did not find the source of that 12 GA there. It looks like someone at Monaco did not follow the diagrams. Does anyone have the same or similar and know where that is powered from?

Hi Ron, I sent you the details in a message through the forum. Paul

I took the third one apart today and took some pictures. The supply line has a spring and a rubber cap that would prevent air going back tomthE supply from the suspension. The line to the suspension (air springs) has a spring and a fine screen to stop anything going to the air springs. I’ll test it to see if the valve is not opening up when the suspension is fully dumped.