pwhittle

Hi David, I replied with details via PM. Thanks! Paul

I love your posts Vito! So much information for the other members to benefit from. Thx Mate. Paul

You can check the pressure by replacing the nozzle with a pressure gauge and turning it on. I took an old nozzle and drilled/tapped it with NPT and then some adapters to a pressure gauge. Good luck with the project! Paul

Hi Mike, Is that a Renegade? That would be a first for me! I sent you details by PM. Paul

That look like they are coming from the camera to indicate how far things are away.it doesn’t make sense that they overlay something from the Aladdin, so there must be a setting in the monitor to turn them off. Tim will know. Paul.

Check that the Jake/engine brake switch is off. Paul

The smart wheel controller output for Cruise On/Off on ours was not working. I don’t think the light on the dash was on though. On ours the dash gets that from the J1939 bus from the engine/transmission via the Faria Beede Gateway that drives the gauges. I replaced the relay on the Smartwheel controller, but that did not fix it so I wired a 12V powered supply through a fuse to the Cruise On output from the Smartwheel, so my cruise is always available to be engaged. Paul

That Sony 6-pin connector that looks like an S-Video is not an S-Video. It is Sony proprietary. Tim at RVCams has had some made for his adapter cables. On our 2005 Signature the other end of that cable is an audio in RCA and video in RCA from the Aladdin, and an 8.2V power out that powers the rear Sony camera. When I replaced my Sony monitor with another RCA compatible monitor, I put in a voltage converter to supply the 8.2V to the rear Sony camera. I just replaced the rear camera and cut the Sony connector off that cable and attached a 4-pin aviation connect to adapter the existing rear camera wiring to the new wiring. I also removed the 8.2V converter and wired 12v to the connector for the rear camera Here is what is left of the cable and the part number 38031333a. Paul

We’d have to bring Frank McElroy in to have a hope of fixing it! 😀 I do have an extra Magnum Opus, but I am not sure it makes sense to put one in where there was not one before. Paul

Hi Walter, Thanks for your kind words. I never imagined deciding to make my own toilet controller instead of replacing the toilet would have turned into what it has. About the only thing we, as a group, haven’t been able to fix is the Kongsberg chassis multiplex. We have to keep these great motorhome alive! There are a few more projects on my list that may be of interest to others! Just finding it hard to make the time. Paul

Great to here you are in business again! Thx for the update. Paul

If no water comes in, that could be the control board, but may be a different problem like a loose wire or just the water valve that needs replacing. Do you have a multimeter and a comfort level using it to do some troubleshooting? Paul

Hi @Bandit411, @Chuck B 2004 Windsor will be along in a bit to tell you that there is no need for a fancy electronic toilet, but many of us think they are great! Your issue where the flapper stops operating is the most common symptom of a failed control board. I’ll send you details on how to get one of my replacement boards for the 3110. Before we do that, move the right hand switch on the control board to the left hand position, Service Mode. This will clear any faults and will try to open the flapper . If it does open, then returning the right hand switch to the middle will close it and you will be back in business. If the Service mode doesn’t open and close as expected, it is likely the control board. Paul

Hi Mike, That is the same Dialight manufacturer data sheet that the second Mouser link above goes to. I wonder what the Prevost people are doing for replacements? Paul

You do you Dick, but that would look pretty bad on my coach. Paul

I have not experienced that yet, but will keep an eye out for it. it will be easier to reprint them than paint them. :j Paul

Hi All, I posted a DIY solution that most of us should be able to do if you have, or know someone that has, a 3D printer to print the mounts. Everything else is easily available. Paul

Hi all, The third brake light on our 2005 Monaco Signature started going out (again) and it is no longer available. I replaced it once not long after we bought the coach with the same original part from Veurinks, and after it faded, I painted it with a red plastic lens paint to restore the red color. Then it cracked in the middle and the individual LED's started burning out. Part number from Owners Manual: MP#16620607 870 51-R Rev Parts Link: LIGHT, BRAKE THIRD | REV Parts Store (revrvparts.com) Mouser Link: https://mou.sr/3m76ErY DataSheet link (See Page 13): https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/109/Vehicle_LED_SelectorGuide-50899.pdf I had already added a brake light flasher to the circuit for the third brake light so that it will flash four times then come on solid when you apply the brakes. That had required opening up the hole for the wires and the flasher to pass through. The SAE connector was installed at the same time. I 3D printed up some mounts and used a YW aluminum LED Channel with a LED Strip. in the mounts I included a recess for the clip that comes with the YW channel. I also used the end caps that came with the YW channel. The hole in the 3D model is sized so that the 3mm machine screws will cut a thread in the mount. After printing the mounts, I used 3mmx3 machine screws to attach the clips to the mount, and installed the mounts in the original holes on the coach. On our coach I had to grind away some of the back end of the left mount as the recess was not flat in the back. Once the mounts were in place I measured between the two raised ends and got 16 1/4" as the total length for the channel. I took off 1/16" for the width of the end clips and cut the YW channel and clear cover at 16 3/16" on my vertical bandsaw. The LED strips have specific locations where they can be cut, and you can add power to anywhere on the strip. These are marked with copper pads under the silicone waterproof layer. On the strips I used, they were every 3 LED's or approximately 1". I cut one end of the strip on the copper pads and laid it in the YW channel, then cut the other end at the last set of copper pads on the YW channel and counted to find the middle set of copper pads. On ours, there were 16 sets of 3 LED's so I marked the strip on the 8th set of copper pads, centered the strip on the YW channel, and marked the YW channel to match that location. I used that mark to drill from the outside of the channel parallel to the base with a 1/8" drill to make a hole that I could pass through the 16ga wires I was using to a two prong SAE plug. i would have used a 7/64 drill and an 18ga wires if I had them, but I have linked that below in the supplies. I deburred the hole with a small round file. I carefully removed the silicone from the LED strip to expose the central copper pads for soldering. I used a razor blade to cut the silicone just inside the LEDs either side of the pads and then was able to peel away the silicone. (This was a test cut on a shorter piece) I cleaned the YW aluminum channel and stuck the LED strip in place starting in the middle to make sure to align the central copper pads with the holes. I tinned the copper pads (used flux and solder). I stripped 1/8" from the end of the wires, passed them through the holes, and soldered them to the copper pads on the LED strip, being careful to connect ref to +ve and black to -ve. I checked to make sure that neither the +ve nor -ve was shorted to the YW aluminum channel. Note that if I tinned the wires before passing through the hole, the insulation swelled with the heat and would not pass through the hole. I covered the soldered pads and the area I had removed the silicone from with fresh silicone, and applied silicone over the wires on the back as they exited the channel. I also filled the hole in the end caps with silicone. I sprayed the clear LED strip cover with red lens paint to have the red appearance as original. You could also leave it clear. Here it is installed. And running with the hazard flashers. the third brake light will flash 4 times and then stay on normally, but I did not start the coach so I could press the brake pedal. Running.MOV Sources for parts: 3D Printed Mounts: I printed these in white ABS with 100% infill. YW Channel: I ordered mine from China on AliExpress. I do see some on Amazon and eBay, but they all seem to be shipping from China. They come with options for clear and milk lenses, and we want the ones that have two clips and two end caps as we use them. The clips I received and what I made the 3D Printer mount for are 9mm wide. AliExpress Link: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832693313513.html Select YW Style, 50CM Transparent LED Strip: https://a.co/d/1SZPTxm Red Lens Paint: I used VHT888 Nite-Shades Translucent Red lens paint. It does not appear to be available any more, but there are likely other products out there. Brake light Flasher: https://a.co/d/7DR5Jms 18ga SAE Extension: https://a.co/d/6ST2xE7 Paul

Files for 3D printing are posted.

I have some Camera V2.0 kits available. Please PM me for details Paul

I have repaired about ten gauges now. In most gauges replacing just the capacitors works. If it still doesn’t work, I replace the stepper motor. On the larger gauges some of the capacitors to replace are 100uF. I used https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/963-EMK325ABJ107MM-T On some of the gauges the stepper motor mounts from the front of the circuit board rather than the back, and you need a different model motor and may have to cut 2mm off the shaft. I used these X27.589 X25.589 Speedometer Stepper Motors Cluster Gauge Repair kit,7Pcs https://a.co/d/iknNNq3 The Speedo/display gauge look like you would have to cut the display out to get it apart enough to replace the stepper motor. You would then have to replace the display. I have not looked for a replacement part yet. I have repaired one by just replacing the capacitors. I also 3D printed some bezel holders. These do two things: provide some support when removing the bezel so that the bezel does not spring out. This helps the most on the large gauges. These can also be used to recrimp the bezel using some groove joint pliers. I’ll post some pictures and the STL files later.

Hi Michael, The switch panels are getting tough to find. Can you take a picture of the front and rear of your faulty one? Is it one or more buttons, or the whole keypad acting differently? Paul

Hi Doug, the wiring to the camera is 12V, GND, and the Video signal. It would be straightforward to add the wiring, but to mount in the mirrors you would need the mount from Intec which I don’t think they sell without their camera. if I were in your shoes, I would look at a different type of side camera that would mount to the side of the coach and integrate that. Of course, if you really want them mounted on the mirrors, it can be done. Paul

I have been looking into other cameras that would make for an even better upgrade than the original kit which I have been happily using for a couple of years now. After buying and trying various cameras, I am pleased to let you know that I have completed the first set of Velvac Mirror Mounted Side Camera Updates 2.0! I am not sure what the original black and white Intec Cameras were, but the original upgrade kit cameras are 800x533 pixels (520 lines) and were a great improvement over the originals. The V2.0 cameras are 1280x720P, with a narrower field of view so what we want to see takes up more of the picture. i also redesigned the mount so that the camera is tilted up 30 degrees and there is a significant reduction in the light in the camera lens from the headlights. (Full disclosure: I have not driven the coach in the day or night to see how much the improvement is). Here is a view with the original update in the left, and the V2.0 update on the right. Here is the image on the 10” Aladdin monitor I used to replace the original Sony “ monitor. The new camera mount Both cameras updated. I really need to update my rear camera now. I am still using the original Sony camera from 2005. Paul