pwhittle

I have a third one for the front that is not fitted yet. I’ll take that apart and see what is in there. Paul

Hi Ray, Yes. They are under the airline fittings Paul

I replaced the rear ride height valves on our 2005 Signautre a few months ago. I got generic replacements for Hadley H00450CE ride height valves. I noticed that when the coach is aired down, starting the engine and bringing the air pressure up does not raise the rear when in travel mode. I have to use the raise on the keypad to get some air into the bags, then the ride height valves operate as expected. I was talking to another MH owner this week and he said there are rubber cups and springs in the ports and the rubber cup needs to be removed to stop this from happening. Has anyone heard of this before?

Hi Mike, On our 2005 Signature the 50A cable passes through the CableMaster tub and continues on to the Transfer Switch (at the front of the next bay) without a junction box. Paul

I’ll see if I can find something. I did it mainly by calling and emailing Wiper Technologies. I sent them a picture of the original sticker on my motor and that was all they asked for. https://www.globalproducts.llc Paul

I ordered and am installing a whole replacement wiper assembly from Wiper Technologis for our 2005 Signature. Everything is better about the new assembly: larger motor larger gearbox larger spindles more rugged spindle mounting plate Rod ends vs rubber bushings new heavy duty arms new 32” wiper blades 6-point washer nozzles per arm new washer fittings through the front cap It has not been a trouble free install the spindle holes need to be opened up for the new 1” spindles I had to remove 1/4” from the spindle mount (cut and weld) as the spacing did not match the original I had to flip the rod end mounts to the spindle arms so it wouldn’t foul the body The price was less that’s the shopping list above, but it took a few months for them to fill the order due to supply chain and some medical issues on the Wiper Techology team. Compare that the the $200+ I would have had to spend on just replacement arms, and it was a simple decision to make. Even with the installation issues, I would not hesitate to do it again. Paul

I have modeled and printed replacement end caps for the Carefree of Colorado powered visors. I design these as a single piece and then split it in two to print to accommodate the limitations of 3D printing then superglue them together, On our 2005 Signature there are a powered drivers and passenger visors plus a non-powered version on the side of the driver and passenger. These are for the motor location on the left. I will be mirroring these to accommodate the motor on the right. I will also check the non-powered versions to see if the caps are the same as the non-motor end of the powered version.

Hi @Nevada Rob, The chance of an Intellitec CPU system going out is pretty low. The only one I know about first hand is a Wanderlodge owner who managed to short 120V onto the Intellitec multiplex bus and damaged every module and keypad. We were still able to read the programming from his CPU and load it into the replacement. If you don’t have a backup of the CPU it can be some work to get the house side of the coach operational again, so a backup is a good thing to have, but the chances of needing it are very small. Keypads do fail, but the programming is fairly easy to recreate without a backup of the keypad. The problem is that the keypads used in Monaco’s were specific to Monaco in shape, size, and appearance. Other available Intellitec keypads can be programmed to work on our coaches, but you may find you have to modify the mounting hole for the switch. I do have a small number of Monaco keypads, and am always on the lookout for more. The challenge I ran into with the kits is that it would cost about $500 for me to sell. I just feel bad selling something that is not worth what it costs. I can backup Intellitec systems. I think I backed up ten at the Gathering. If any of the group and I find ourselves in the same location, I’ll back yours up for you too. Most of the time we are in Woodstock, GA. See if you can stop by. Paul

@Gayle H Can you post pictures of the switches that are giving you issues? @Scotty Hutto these issues sound like house not chassis. There is not a lot that cannot be fixed with the Intellitec system or normal switches. Paul

Hi Ron, Yes, the cameras can typically be installed without removing the mirrors, but sometimes it is easier to remove the mirrors to get the old cameras out as the old cameras block direct access to the screws that latch the wedges into place. A ball end hex wrench may make it easier to get the wedges out. Paul

We are at the Indy 500 too in Lot 1C. We got stuck coming in on Thursday. Still had the toad attached, so disconnected that and they pulled me out with a track steer from the rear hitch. Getting ready to leave early in the morning and I wanted to make sure I could get out as we had sunk into the soft grass. First try I moved out of the depressions, but then my drive wheels started spinning. Took a second shot at with the tag lifted, and was able to drive out to some unused ground for the night. Paul

@Chrisco, here s the thread about the kit I make. Let me know if that is what you are looking for. Paul

I use OpenSCAD for the design. I create the white as one model that is one layer high. The second model is the rest of the design with a hole to match the white. You need to make sure the two prints are aligned. Each print is independently sliced in Cura to generate separate gcode files. Then I print the white model and when the print finishes, I remove the initial nozzle cleaning lines and brim, change the filament from white to black, and print the second model. The white is only one layer high, so the nozzle can move over it where necessary. Printing is on a single filament Ender 3. Paul

I recently printed some face plates to cover where an Aladdin joystick had been removed. It is the same size despite the appearance in the picture. Paul

You want this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VIXLRO Paul

I was able to get the circlip off the pin at the cylinder end without removing the cylinder. Then I could remove the chain. I replaced the pin and circlip with a Grade 8 bolt and locknut. However, I ended up removing the whole mechanism to fit the new chain. Paul

Hi Richard, I have a complete replacement system from Wiper Tech for our 2005 Signature. When I install it, I’ll can send you the piece from the old one if you still need it. Paul

Hi Greg, I sent you my contact info my Pm, Paul

I also found That the iOS application version of QuickServe is non functional. I don’t think the application had been updated for quite a few years. i switched to the browser view rather than the app. Paul

@Patrick can you post a picture of your toilet so we can determine the model? Paul

I always suspected you did. 😀 Paul

Here is an original Dometic valve. https://marinesan.com/water-valve-kit/ Paul

I have printed some things off Thingiverse, to include the stubby M18 blower nozzle above. Most things I model with a pair of digital calipers in OpenSCAD, a free 3D design software. Then I use Cura, another free application, to convert the model into the commands for the 3D printer taking into account the printer capabilities, the material being used, and about 100 other options.

Great idea Scotty, I uploaded the step cover cushion block to the new section. All, If you want something that is uploaded to that section, you can download the .stl file and print it yourself, or submit it to a commercial site for printing. If you decide to ask a friend to print it, remember that they have expenses in setting up their systems to be able to print, and then the cost of consumables to include the filament to print it, the print surfaces, and the time to run and monitor the print.

Another member asked if I could print the support for the step cover and sent me a picture of his failed piece. Our 2005 Signature had the same part, and it was broken the same way as the other member’s, so I modeled the replacement, but printed it in 100% infill ABS to improve the design and make it more durable. Non-Monaco, but a couple of parts I printed for friends. This is for the tail light sequencer for a 60’s Shelby Mustang a friend is restoring. It holds the circuit board and hangs in the trunk. It is dimensionally the same, but the design with the small clips to hold the two halves together was not durable in the original design, and is not in my replacement. I had to print each half in two pieces and glue them together due to overhangs. A friend has a Palatov D2 sports car and runs PIAA LED headlights, and wanted a nacelle to clean up the rear of the flat backed lights. I also was able to print in two colors for the replacement Aladdin joystick faceplates. Paul