olywrestle

On my 2006 Ambassador there was a 4 Button panel on top of the passenger console. 2 of the buttons that we frequently used while parked were the Storage Lights and Step Lights. I hated digging through the curtain or having to step up and in to turn those on. So I created a switch panel to relocate them to the front of the console. Since it is curved I could not use a flat panel without it looking awkward. These fit the Carling Contour V switches. After tracing the cutout needed I cut the leather back, and started using a dremel to cut. I switched up and used an oscillating tool to finish cutting fiberglass as it was much thicker than I expected it to be. I did have to extend the wiring for the panel lits over just because of the way they had it jumpered between the switches. Luckily they left plent of wire that it reaches easily. I have put the 3d printer stl file in the downloads section for others that may want it.

So I started this topic awhile back with the designs for the covers. After about a year I noticed I lost a couple along the way. I highly recommend a small dab of black silicone to help hold them in place for the long term. In the Northern Utah sun, using PETG they seem to have hold their shape well.

Wish I had the welding skills like you Mike, since I don't, I opted for the c-low fab one. It was very high quality and quick turn around.

In my 06 ambassador I found a port in the front electrical bay and pulled trans temp from it with my BlueFire. The one under the dash would not.

I have a 2006 ambassador. Not sure if ecm is the same. How would I be able to provide my programming if it is compatible?

Thanks all for the replies. I apparently have conflicting info in the guide. One page says NLGI #2 Lithium The other page has CBL, which in the manuals decoder is stands for Clay Based So now I am even more conflicted on which direction to go!

That's lithium based, my guide says Clay based. Has lithium progressed since 2006 that it could be used instead of the clay based?

Any recommendations on the grease for the slack adjuster? My manual just says clay-based lubricant for them. No idea what was last used...

I just replaced both of mine. I did not pre fill them. I did primary first and cycled the key a bunch of times, maybe 10. Fired the engine up. Let it run for 5 minutes or so. Same process for the second one. Did a 500 mile trip right after with no issues. If you do prefill them, as others say, plug the center hole!

I decided I would check to see if my fan was working, and it is, but while I had it off I grabbed the part numbers off the snap disk: PN: 36T22 10847 It is a Close on Rise with 120°F Cut-In and 90°F Cut-Out I did find a alternative made NTE that would also work. PN: NTE-DTC120 Close on Rise and Open at 95°F and Close at 122°F Edit, looks like the one on the diagram is on at 110°F not 120°F like mine, but haven't found one with those specs yet.

You could use a surface mount box over the hole such as this.

Jim, I use BlueFire and my adaptor is in the front run box. Originally I had lots of connectivity issues so I bought an extension cable to move it a little bit closer in that compartment. I still had connectivity issues. I then turned my tablet the other direction and have gone thousands of miles without issues.

On my Ambassador in the driver's front electrical bay I found a nine pin connector for my BlueFire adapter. I get trans temp out of it. For those using BlueFire, I was having lots of connectivity issues, and tried everything possible except flip my tablet the opposite direction. Once I did that, I did 3000 miles so far without it dropping.

They didn't come from a vehicle that I could find. But I found them on the hella website. https://myhellalights.com/product/90mm-halogen-headlamp-classic-modules/

Thanks all for chiming in. On the ambassador (and likely the knight)the dash is fairly simple with no micro controller as Tom mentions on the higher end coaches, there is not a coolant light or oil pressure light, there is an alternator light. This switch was an audible alert added by Monaco and it's redundant to lights and gauges. I suspect as Bill stated there is a bad sensor tired into this alert system. As such, for myself I feel comfortable unplugging it as I am a gauge watcher consistently. In the process of all this, I discovered the audible alert tied into the low air/transmission gear had the ground wire cut. Based on everything out there, I bet my Nason switch on the parking brake is bad. I hooked up the alarm anyways to see what happens on my next trip. Thanks all for the insights.