rustykramermetalfab
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Posts posted by rustykramermetalfab
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On 4/28/2024 at 5:30 PM, Dr4Film said:
Those buttons on the VIP Smart-wheel never lit up on my previous Windsor and now my Dynasty.
Are you saying your 06 Dynasty is not back lit or they are? Just wondering My 06 Dynasty is.
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Not a big deal. Instructions are on line on their web site. Just a few wires and a couple of sensors on the boiler tubes.
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21 hours ago, 96 EVO said:
Your best move if you plan on keeping the fridge till 'End of life', is to install an ARP Fridge Defend, along with one or two of their fans!
I have a single fan Fridge defend for a 1200 Norcold, I no longer use. it was on mine for a short time. Cheap if someone is interested.
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Yea it's been about two years since I did this bought mine. The OP should make sure he is not paying $427 for a "cheap" one then for sure.
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I had the same experience with my coach but not as bad as yours. I replaced my dryer also. I would just make certain that the dryer is an OEM Wabco and not a china knock off. I paid $600 a couple years ago, and the "generic" were 3-400 as I remember. If you are paying that for the Wabco brand you are getting a good deal for sure.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B861854J?psc=1&ref=product_details
I use these in all my puck lights now. I really like the 4000K they are white or clear? My wife does not like the warm 3000K lights anywhere. It just depends on the interior colors of your rig and what you like. These run nice and cool also.
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My previous coach, 2000 Dynasty I had a shock mount stud break off the bracket in the rear. Basically, I made it a bolt on stud to the original bracket. I am not sure how it lasted 90K miles with the tiny cold weld tacks it had from the factory.
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10 minutes ago, zmotorsports said:
Agreed Rusty, I think having the coach in a climate controlled environment when not in use plays a huge factor, but also routine usage is just as important. I have only been fortunate to have our coach stored indoors for the past almost 7 years now as the first 10+ years of it's like as well as our previous two coaches were outside full-time. The tires were covered however when not in use which wasn't quite as good as being indoors but better than nothing.
You guys are making me nervous about the smell of the Toyo's. I really don't want my shop to smell like some kind of barnyard animal. Hell, I couldn't wait to get off the d*** farm, let alone go back to having to smell one. My last shop after working in it for 25+ years took on a smell of race fuel and machining oils and I LOVED it. Would like to get my new one to smell like that eventually but now I'm nervous I may have introduced a not so pleasant smell into it. The surrounding farms where we live are all the animal smell I can take.
Mike, I Agree that regular use is a good thing, I have read something about having the tires warmed up and flexing is good for keeping the adhesives more intact and less separation or something...... It seems to vary on how bad the smell is reported to be. I could smell it a bit when I picked it up and I would get a little hit of it when I would open my shop door for a while. Mine was not severe but my new tires were 6 months old when I got them. That was the best the warehouse had or at least was willing to look for. That might be a benefit of having a little age on them. The barnyard smell can be a real thing although some people say it's Bull-crap!
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I bought my 06 Dynasty with 9-year-old Michelin's that looked great, they were in climate control when the coach was stored, which from my experience is a big factor for tire age condition. I opted for Toyos. I did not drive the coach enough miles with the Michelin's (and the coach was so new to me) to say there is any difference in the driving experience after the tire change.
My Toyo's smelled like a farm for about a year.
I will be curious to see what Mike says about his driving experience since he has a lot of miles previous to the change.
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Ivan, is there an Oring kit available for the HWH system valves/solenoids? That is something I have not really been into yet. I am just thinking this is something good to have on the road while traveling if you have a leak severe enough to keep you from moving? I have a pretty good supply of lines and fittings. Thanks
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23 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
A few final comments
I would only purchase know brands. Hubbell, Levitan & Eaton Wiring Devices. These were the “approved” manufacturers of GFCI by Magnum.
i do not like, nor trust the Utilitech “imported” Lowes brand. Yes, Eaton Wiring Devices has Mexican sites. I know. I audited them for environmental and safety compliance. Their engineers are top notch as is the factory.
I would have a ratcheting crimper on “standby”. A supply of yellow (most of our Romex is #12) butt splices and a couple of feet of 12/2 W Ground Romex. If the leads are too short…add short extenders. Not a fan of wire nuts, but Monaco used them…and we currently have a member that fixed a Magnum with a faulty neutral and is now going J-box to J-box trying to find the “open” or missing neutral.
Based on my limited experience in replacing the “bash in place” manufactured housing style outlets with same, be prepared to complete one in an easy location to learn. Never again will i install a manufactured housing receptacle…. And i have been doing electrical repairs since I was 13….or 66 years. Have probably wired several houses as part of repairs and additions. This ain’t my first rodeo….
Can you advise what you mean by this ? "Never again will i install a manufactured housing receptacle"
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Thanks to all I am not sure what route to go yet. I have a Magnum MS2012 Pure sine wave inverter.
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I just installed this Kenwood unit in my 06 Dynasty. Crutchfield is the way to go for sure, they set me up with a plug and play adapter. I needed to cut the opening height about 3/4" and make a couple bars to hold the unit solid. Not a bad job. I think to mirror the phone it needs plugged into the USB cord on this one. I mainly wanted to stream music and have some better sound. The sound quality is way better. Bluetooth works great. I still want to add a sub-woofer.
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2 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:
They claim their new improved electric actuators will kick-out before they have a complete meltdown.
Unfortunately, some modifications need to be made to each mounting bracket to fit them. They are not a direct bolt on replacement!
OK will call to check thanks EVO.
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23 hours ago, 96 EVO said:
My TriMark electric bay door locks all failed together in the unlock position. Can see it being a nightmare if they failed locked!
I no longer have electric bay door locks!
This is a bit unnerving for those of us with these locks. I sure like the electric power bay locks. Any input on what can be done to prevent this issue? 06 Dynasty with Trimark lock system.
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On my 06 Dynasty the wires were way up high under the left corner of the dash. Had to cut the factory Ty Wraps to find it. They really hid them well.
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I realized I never responded with what I did. 2015 Yukon. I installed a roadmaster base plate, Nighthawk tow bar, Brake master and the lighting/wiring kit for the Yukon taillights.
Lots of work to install, but I have towed 3500 miles, and the system has worked great for me.
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2 minutes ago, Newcsn said:
Thanks @rustykramermetalfab - truly appreciate the additional perspective! I’m actually at our coach as I’m writing & doing some measuring before I order hoses. Yes, there are a couple hoses that will need to be trimmed to fit - especially at the cooler. However, on our coach, the bends/specs/sizes match up. We’ll see if my eyes & their specs agree! Thanks again!
Hey, no problem, enjoy working on the coach, that project is a big one. I just replaced every hose fitting and clamp while I was doing it also. Kept all the old stuff too you just never know....
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1 hour ago, Newcsn said:
Spot on! Thank you @Hockeydiesel!!! It had all the hose numbers/specs for Dynasty! Thank you!
I am not saying this is not helpful information, but I bought all the hoses they had listed for my coach, 2006 Dynasty ISL 400. I had to shorten most of them and still needed additional large hoses and all of the small return lines. I bought them up front and then took on the project. If it works out and you have time just remove all your hoses and use the local parts store. You may still need to cut some length off.
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On 11/5/2023 at 8:09 AM, Pduggs said:
What is the expected life span of engine coolant hoses? I’ve only replaced the short top hose on my coach. I intended to replace the lower hose coming off the bottom of the radiator, but after checking it decided it was okay. Hoses appear to be original and no noticeable cracks or fatigue, with 55k on odo.
I lost my turbo coolant hose on a trip as happycarz pointed out on his photo, to cracking. 2006 coach around 85K miles. All of mine large hoses looked like his and all of the smaller hoses would crack and split if bent. Be proactive and change them all. Flush the system and put in some OAT so you don't have to worry about SCA level. Not much fun climbing around the engine compartment on a 90 degree day in a parking lot. I was able to replace that hose once I found where the leak was. I feel a lot better knowing I have that project behind me.
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11 minutes ago, CTerry said:
Sounds like a u-joint in the steering column. Grab the shaft and see if you can see any movement in the joints. Should be none visible.
I will check. thanks.
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1 minute ago, dl_racing427 said:
I'd definitely raise the front axle and check all joints for any play.
Be certain to use properly rated jack stands, they could save your life. 👍Yes, looking into a couple 20 K bottle jacks and stands. Thanks! I always run my coach up on boards and ramps for normal chassis work. but never raised the axel up.
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I Own a 2006 Dynasty 38' Tag. 90K miles. I have driven the coach 4,500 miles myself and it drives pretty well, I have adjusted the TRW. I get just a slight clunky/bump feedback feel in the steering wheel slow speed turning, parking lots, city intersection etc. I never feel any feedback like this at highway speed, but I only really feel it when I am turning the steering wheel a full revolution or more?
I would assume I really need to get the front wheels off the shop floor to feel any loose tie rod etc? If there is any input on what to check or specifics I would appreciate it.
2001 VIP Steering wheel cover removal. Backlights not functional…. Maybe older VIP do not have that feature??
in General Motorhome Discussion
Posted
Got it Dave Thanks.