bmulvenna@hotmail.com

We have upgrade our Xantrex RV 2400 to a Victron 3000 pure sine wave.

The inverter and Rc 7 work fine.  We just wanted a pure sine wave and more power so that's why we upgraded. 

Nothing is wrong with the Xantrex so we are offering the inverter and RC7 remote  for sale for $500 plus shipping or pickup in Phoenix to save shipping.

Thanks for any interest.

Maybe this will help

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MavKhp56HkngQ6Vs3Qhsdhc6favVG0yr1qATnKXWN4c/edit?usp=drivesdk

Have you tried contacting Paul Maddox? He works for HWH remotely. He is in Az and is very good at answering his calls.

(602)5493638

Good luck.

18 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

That is an awesome price.  

  -Rick N

It works great, just dont need it anymore.

We have canceled DISH network as we are relying on OTA and internet for streaming.

We have older Winegard roof mount dish (configured for DISH) and the control unit for it. It is in great working order.

Will sell for $150.00 plus shipping or can be picked up in Phoenix.

It is still mounted and working on our 2004 Dynasty. We take the DISH recievers out of our house and put them in the coach when we travel for the summer

Created this for possible help.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MavKhp56HkngQ6Vs3Qhsdhc6favVG0yr1qATnKXWN4c/edit?usp=drivesdk

20 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Monaco purchased the front axle as an assembly.  There is a tag on the front axle that will help decode all the parts included.  Our front brakes are Bendix ABD22X.  Yours may or may not be the same.  

Bendix ADB22X Disc Brakes (Front).pdf 2.46 MB · 2 downloads

Thanks, will check it out.

The parts list for   rotors and seals is correct. Ordered and installed. The parts list for pads is not correct however. The existing pads have no numbers or other identification.

My searching has not come up with pads of the correct size.

Anyone have a source for the pads? 

Thanks 

Thank you.

Our grey water tank leakes thru the the tank level sensor that is connected to the Aladdin system. I have removed the sensor as it has stopped working anyway.

I replaced the sensor with a 3/4 pvc plug wrapped on Teflon tape. The tank does not leak at all until it is almost full, so apparently the water pressure when full causes the leak.

The old sensor and the  new plug are threaded into a female white fitting  which is attached to the bottom of the tank. That is where the leak appears to be originating from.

Does anyone know if that white fitting is glued or threaded into the the holding tank.

Thanks for any suggestions. 

3 minutes ago, Bill R said:

Great idea.  I would also include the inline check valves on the aux compressor and small tank.  If these do not seat completely and leak, you can loose air in the system back through the aux compressor or tanks.

Yes. Those are colored in purple to add. Thanks 

11 minutes ago, Old Dog said:

I would also add the Compressor Unloader Hose, 1/4" briaded steel hose that runs from the Air Governor to the Engine Air Compressor. Found mine leaking at both crimps. Has to be tested with the engine running.

Good point. Thank you.

Just like a lot of other motorhome  owners we have Compressed air leaks in our 2004 Dynasty.

Before crawling under the coach to investigate we are in process of creating a document of areas to check.

The link included opens that document. It is not yet complete and we would value any corrections or additions to it. Once complete we will make a PDF for distribution.

Thanks in advance for any comments.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MavKhp56HkngQ6Vs3Qhsdhc6favVG0yr1qATnKXWN4c/edit?usp=drivesdk

The inverter ground stud is in the front  storage bay (clean area) next to the inverter and that  is the one that had the issue. I guess we are just not understanding each other.  Guess we agree to disagree , the issue is resolved.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

That may or may NOT be the issue.  You need to go to the prints.  Probably towards the end in your manual.  The Print is 38010014. Called Low Volt High Current Diagram.  This explains WHY you have an issue and where it potentially can be.

I have attached the print as well as a screen shot from my monitor.

You are going to have to look at you inverter.  All I can do is go by the prints.  There is an INCOMING Ground from the Battery (Negative to the main Inverter Ground cable.  Then, IT LOOKS....so you have to verify  like there is a separate GROUND from the Inverter to the chassis.  SO, I don't know what the Trace cabinet looks like.  A picture SURE would help.  The issue is that from the "schematic", it looks that there are TWO Grounds from the Trace.  They are INTERNALLY CONNECTED and BONDED.  That is the ONLY WAY to get the House Battery GROUND to the Chassis Stud.  NOW, Monaco always does thing crazy...so Prints aren't always correct.  But you can bet on ONE THING.  If there is only ONE 4/0 Negative from the Battery box....it has to go to a GROUND....and later on, it was like the print I posted....or it has to have a pathway.  SO, trace the negative from the Battery to wherever it is terminated.  If there is only ONE Cable, as the print shows, then it should be on the Back side of the Inverter or next to wherever the positive is.  THEN, the Inverter has to have a BONDED, INTERNAL High Current Connection to the GROUND STUD.  That, per the print, is the only way.  

OK....taking this one step further, assuming you found only ONE Negative from the House Battery bank....if the internal Bond (inside the Trace is bad....then NO GROUND.  BUT, if the internal Bond is good, then the ONLY pathway to Ground is the external ground.  Bear in mind...I'm doing this from prints without the benefit of pictures.

Therefore, it is a SAFE bet that the stud is OK....welded studs may rust....but if the stud is attached....that is NOT the issue.  SO....there are some points of connection that have to be looked at or verified.  First....the cable between the GROUND stud going to the Inverter.  If I understood you, you hooked up a Jumper Cable.  It was on the EXTERNAL Ground....where the Inverter to Ground runs.  Then you put it to Ground.  BINGO....all works.  Therefore the cable from the external Ground to the Chassis Stud is defective. 

BUT, if you hooked up the Jumper Cable from the INCOMING Battery (Negative terminal...beside the Positive....then you should move that cable to the EXTERNAL GROUND and see if that fixes it.  If that does NOT, then the internal bond between the Incoming Negative and the External Ground is BAD...as in INSIDE the inverter.

So, run the tests.  Isolate where the high resistance connection is.  You ae going to have to go back with a reliable cable from the original ground stud...to the external ground stud.  UNLESS you decide to JUMPER from the Battery (incoming) to the External.  And THAT will work...but the isues in the inverter may, if that is the cause, have to be addressed.  

Pictures and comments...so we can isolate.

 

High Current Battery 2004 Dynasty - Signature 38010014.pdf 528.75 kB · 0 downloads

Tom. I have said that I already have this schematic and I have looked at it a number of times over the past few days.

The inverter does have its own ground. That is the one that I moved to a new frame ground and now all is well.

Everything is running  the way it is supposed to and I am leaving it at that, as the way I see it, the issue is resolved.

Thanks for your input. We are away from the coach for a number of days so I can't get any pictures.

Thanks again. 

Thanks Tom. Appreceiate your help.

There is nothing else connected to that stud.

I have it working connected to a different frame ground.

On 8/31/2023 at 6:43 PM, vito.a said:

I would start by checking the battery ground cable in the basement next to the inverter.  While in there, also check the main positive battery cables. 

Next check the ground cable from the house batteries to the frame back by the battery compartment.   Also check the battery disconnect switch cables on the backside of the battery compartment.  

Hope you find it!

Vito.a

after I found my issue I was re-reading the posts in this thread. As it turns out you hit the nail on the head. It was the battery ground from the inverter not making a good connection thru the welded stud. Thanks for your input. 

Tom,

Thanks.  I did not drill a hole

 I attached a jumper to the inverter ground cable and the other end of the jumper to the frame. Need to deside on permanent solution.

Thanks. The cable is good. No corrosion on cable or stud. Wire brushed stud and cable anyway. No joy. Attach cable to frame and all works.

FOUND THE ISSUE.

Negative cable from the inverter is connected to a stud that is welded to the frame. It was not making a connection thru the stud to the frame. Disconnected cable and jump it to the frame and issue is temporarily resolved. Now need to make a permanent connection to the frame.

Thanks Tom. Will try what you suggested, but don't forget there is 1.4 volts at the house battery connections on the RRB even though the battery is not connected to it as indicated in my post number 7

13 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Maybe….and i had a different issue as in Genny (House starts it) would not turn over….

Try this.  Use Jumper Cables…turn off both disconnects.  Jumper the positives and the negatives of the House and Chassis.  Turn on both disconnects.  See if that fixes.  
My issue was a bad ground.  Behind the battery area, should be the Negative cables.  Both chassis and house go to separate studs.  Pull cables.  Clean and retighten.  Then test.

OK…. You can “hunt & peck” or do it the old fashioned logical way.  Get a length of #16 or so hookup wire.  You will also need two double ended test leads with alligator clips on each end.

Here’s the drill.  Assume nothing.  Put an alligator clip lead on the battery positive bolt/post.  Attach to your hookup wire.  Put the other alligator lead on the other end of the wire.  Then hook that up to the common on your VOM.  Use the 12 VDC scale.  Now, physically trace the positive cable to the first point or lug where it is attached.  Use the meter probe and measure the voltage.  It should be zero or maybe a few hundredths….it depends on the length.  

You have a bad or high resistance connection or you have a cable with corrosion inside the terminal.  You can’t see it.  The only way is to measure…under load.  Then, move the alligator clip from the positive terminal to where you just measured.  Then go to the next point where a cable is connected.  If the cable goes through the disconnect, then measure the other contact.  Eventually, you will find a bad connection.  This is more foolproof than measuring to ground…as the cable or switch or connection terminal is under load.  We have had folks swear the cables were GREAT….but they had several volts potential over the cable.  They cut off the cable end.  OPPS…totally corroded.

Don’t know if you have the “through the box” connections.  Measure every point, starting at the battery post using this method.  It tells you the continuity of the cable…or whatever .

You’ll spend less time than checking points to ground.  Unless you had a bad ground (see first paragraph), then this is the correct way to isolate.

Let us know…

 

 

 

After disconnecting the batteries from the RRB there is still 1.3 volts at the RRB. Tomorriw will Disconnect EACH RRB cable to see which one is feeding the 1.3 voltage 

13 minutes ago, vito.a said:

I would start by checking the battery ground cable in the basement next to the inverter.  While in there, also check the main positive battery cables. 

Next check the ground cable from the house batteries to the frame back by the battery compartment.   Also check the battery disconnect switch cables on the backside of the battery compartment.  

Hope you find it!

Thanks, already done all of that.

2004 Dynasty

Sorry posted in the wrong category.

1. No 12 volt in the coach.

2. BigBoy and both house and engine solenoids have been eleminared for well over a year. No sales switch.

3. House batteries meter at 13. 2 volts indicating they are charging

4. Xantrex rv2012 inverter shows float Charging.

5. 13.2 volts output from house battery disconnect switch.

6. Should show 13.2 volts input to all house terminals in the rear run box.

7. Testing each RRB house positive terminal using a chassis ground only show 1.4 volts. This is true even if the house batteries are disconnected with the main disconnect switch. 

8. Testing those same RRB house positive terminals using the house battery negative post shows 13.2

9. Input and output to and from the inverter shows 13.2 volts.

Appears to be a chassis ground issue.

Any thoughts on a solution greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys, that's it. Purchased one yesterday.

2004 Dynasty. Fitting on the rear air tank leaks. Has only one  1/2 in line attached. Searched the parts list but can't find. Looks like it is Meritor but can't read all the numbers/letters.

Link to pictures attached. Thanks in advance to anyone that can't help identify the part.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bqoD9WKkahk8gC2P9