Don't know if you've ever gone and opened up the arm rest where your parking brake is...that is an experience. LOL Lots of goodies in there. I removed that entire plastic piece as it takes a beating every time you set and release the parking brake. Dumb design. I had a piece of aluminum cut to size and glued the plastic to it so it's really solid. I've got some pictures somewhere. I'll have to dig them out and post them. Prevents the plastic from breaking at the screw holes....Dennis

d

Does the pump turn on? In answer to your question, yes there is a screen/filter, but it's usually found on the pump itself. Did you turn off the water supply, i.e. winterizing valve, in order to change out the pump?? ..let us know....Dennis

Bob, try this. Get to the back of the headlight/dimmer switch and run a separate wire to your ground. Ensure it's attached to a good spot on the frame. See if that makes your issue go away. It sounds like the switch ground is at fault. If the jumper wire works, trace the ground wire from the switch backwards. Monaco daisy chained most of the grounds behind the dash....Dennis

You are correct in diagnosing this as a bad ground. Check your grounding bar in the generator compartment. I found mine to be pretty dirty. I took it loose, filed the area clean again and reinstalled it. Problem went away. My coach has two ground bars, (that I've found so far) One in the genset and the other on the driver's side of the engine compartment. The genset one is on the frame rail, driver's side, up by the windshield wipers....Dennis

Parking brake set, tranny in neutral, key on???? Simple things first. Once couldn't get the TV to work. Forgot to plug it in.....Dennis

Ok, I just re-read your post. If I understand correctly, you have the original hose from Thetford and a 'extra' piece of flex hose (with no ends, just the hose) from somewhere else that you're trying to hook onto the Thetford hose. Is that correct?? Couldn't you just use a reducer (1 1/2-1") and install a hose fitting on that and use a regular 1" garden hose?...Dennis

Seems like you could just call Thetford and get what you need...altho I think I'd just go to Home Depot and get a piece of  1 1/2 PVC pipe... I've got the regular macerator and I just use 100' garden hose.......Dennis

46 minutes ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Paul

I suspect that you spelled Newmar "anew at".

I suspect his phone auto corrected it for him. 😁 My wife went shopping the other day and texted me a picture of her in a new dress.  Asked me if it made her look fat. I texted back "Nooo"! My phone auto-corrected it to say "Mooo"! I've been eating alone the past few days......Dennis

1 hour ago, Cruzbill said:

3 wire cord = 30 amps; 4 wire cord = 50 amps. Does your coach run two A/C's on 30 amp service? 

His cord is a 50 amp 4 wire cord. Three 6s and an 8 for the ground. Assuming that's what you meant. As far as 2 a/c on 30 amp, mine will if I have nothing else running. Turn on the TV the EMS starts shutting things down. I no longer try @ 30amps because I'm concerned it stresses out the A/C units. i have three 15k BTU heat pumps. Don't know about the 13.5BTU units. They may work fine @30Amps....Dennis

To all:  In my earlier post I made light of the current situation relative to Covid19. This was insensitive on my part and I would like to personally apologize to anyone who was offended by my flippant comment.  It was uncalled for and unnecessary. I am truly sorry....Dennis

Harbor Freight, Earth Magnet, Find screws. ....Dennis

Legal action??? Like what? Cost more to sue than for the part. Also, with the court backlog due to the Pandemic, your case wouldn't be heard until 2025.  To the OP, try VeurinksRV.com. Call them and tell them what you're looking for. They're pretty good...Another thought, call Marcus Lemonis, CEO of Camping World 1-800-626-3636 .  Someone will be assigned to assist you........Dennis

Can't help you with the part number, but this begs the question: How does a repair facility "lose" a part that is "bolted into the  door frame with a 3/8-16 threaded bolt-like part onto the cylinder shaped part"??? Asking for a friend. 😁😁                      

Are you trying to send a message to a member? To one of the mods? Either way, if it's a personal message you're trying to send, go to the top of the page where you'll see an envelope, click on that. You'll then see a box labeled, Compose New. Click on that, type in the recipient's name and press send.....Dennis

Step 1.  Remove old television. Most likely need a set of helping hands.

Step 2.  Remove old wiring. Most of it will be outdated anyway.

Step 3. Determine what TV you'll be installing. This is the most important step as everything else will depend on this step.

Step 4. Run new wiring including at least TWO HDMI cables.

Step 5. Determine how you'll want to mount the new TV. It'll be considerably lighter but you'll need to see if the picture is still visible from your seating angle.

Step 6. Contact a reputable cabinet shop and give them everything in Step 3 and 5.  They will need this to cut and finish the new cabinetry to house the new TV.

Step 7. Install TV in your new cabinet and enjoy.

IMO, Step 3 is very important but Step 5 is really important. There are many variables available in TVs these days, LEDs etc. Not all television screens allow for total vision. Some require you to be directly in front of the TV or slightly to the side. In a moho we often view them at various angles. Make sure whatever TV you choose fits your needs. Best of luck...Dennis

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I've removed mine and had to reconnect the wiring. The connectors Monaco used were not put on correctly. They work fine now..Removal is easy and installation is the reverse of removal. IIRC there's two screws on each end....Dennis

While I haven't had the need to look for the rollers on that slide, I know there's a lot of wiring and stuff under the dresser drawers. Your picture is of the hamper. It's easy enough to remove. Just squeeze the sides of the slides and pull it out. I'll look at mine tomorrow and see if I can provide any more info....Dennis

BTW, the D/S slide goes in and out at the same speed. A little slower than the other three but that's because it drops down, slides out then pops up in place so that takes some time. Make sure your reservoir is topped off. It's under your stairwell...D

Richard, I agree on trying to smash a hardened bolt. I'm thinking the rivet is a common one and could be found at most any machine shop. We are in Arizona, on lockdown for a bit so most of the machine shops are closed. If I can find an open one, I'm going to take my bracket in and ask. I would assume a machine shop could get/have the correct rivet and the means to smash that sucker easier than I could with a vise and a hammer.  If I find one that's open, I'll post my findings....Dennis

I'd check the wiring while it's in the  shop. A lot of the wires go through the frame rails and while many are in looms they are still flopping around loose. When I bought my rig, one of the first things I did was stop by Home Depot and bought one of those huge bags of zip ties. Every 12" or so the wires in my coach are zip tied. A little OCD? Perhaps. But, consider what happens to a piece of wire that you bend back a forth a few times. It breaks right? All those wires bouncing up and down as you travel will take it's toll on your wiring. Sounds like there's a loose, broken or chafed ground wire in your coach. I am assuming it's most likely a chafed wire somewhere through the frame rail. That's where I'd start looking. My thinking is when they raised the front end, however they did that, the bad wire was moved slightly and the problem was eliminated. At least eliminated until it slides back and grounds out again. Of course, you could simply wait it out and it may never resurface....good luck...Dennis

On 5/1/2020 at 8:48 AM, rjnontheroad said:

Joel, mine does the same thing when the rivet that holds the two pieces together begins to wear out and loosen. Eventually my wife and or I get so annoyed by this that I take the unit down and build a new rivet. Here is how I do this.

First unscrew the bracket attached to the door frame. Then drill out the rivets on bracket attached to the door. Then knock out the large, loose, rivet holding the two pieces together. I may have to do a little bit of grinding on it to do this. Take the half of the arm with the beveled hole to the hardware store and find a bolt with a tapered head that just fits the hole diameter. Cut this bolt so about 1/4" sticks out from the assembled pieces. Beat this with a hammer until it is pretty flat.  Grind off the other, tapered side,  of the bolt until it is smooth with the surface of the scissor arm. Screw the bracket side to the door frame and pop rivet the other side to the door. It will be quite stiff to use for a little while but becomes easier fairly quickly. 

Pretty primitive operation but it saves about $100 from buying a new unit. Hope this helps.

Richard Nordlund

2004 Diplomat

 

 

 

 

Anyone know of a distributor for the rivet that was used originally? Seems like a direct replacement of the rivet would be the best solution.  Richard, I'm assuming you're meaning a screw with the tapered head, correct? I haven't seen a bolt that's tapered. Or, maybe I've just led a sheltered life. :)......Dennnis

On 4/29/2020 at 3:55 AM, willbo777 said:

I am not sure the email is real.  I searched my account on DirecTv, looked for any information on their site, nothing there.  I googled loss of DNS, networks on DirecTv, etc, and found nothing.  I am certainly hoping this is just a scam email.  Time will tell.

Here's a whole article devoted to STELAR, STAR or whatever moniker you want to place on it. From the article, it appears DNS will go away and force consumers to DISH. However, Congress could provide relief, (if they ever get back to work..grrrr) by approving legislation that's on their desks. This legislation has been there since January 1, 2020. The current 'contract' expired 1/1/20 but was extended to 6/1/20. We shall see. I would be very cautious entering into a contract with AT&T expecting them to do the right thing for us. Losing DNS two months into a 24 month contract would not make me a happy camper...YMMV....Dennis

33 minutes ago, Joel Sheriff said:

/snip/ Has anyone figured a way of doing it inside like the scissor instead of outside under the awning? 

Joel, your screen door will be in the way if you try to install it on the inside. If you want to remove the screen door, you can mount it inside.....Dennis

Here's a helpful article with pictures...Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.....Dennis

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/gas-door-prop-installed-241214.html

That's because you're trying to adapt it to the INSIDE of the door which doesn't work. The strut is installed on the OUTSIDE of the coach door, which IMO was the deal breaker for me. Good luck...Dennis