Just Jim

 the manobloc system usually has cut offs for each line at the central distribution area.  You could disconnect the lines at the system and leave them in place, but they would be completely drained and not subject to freezing, etc.  All of this assuming your coach has the system???  Not familiar with the Ambassador.

I used a clear caulk on mine.  Holding up well so far.

you are very welcome.  I think it was a very slow progression...  sometimes would take a month to lose prime, then just gradually got shorter to where I'd have to prime it almost every time.  Was never really an issue as I'd just hit the button and it would start right up afterwards.  And again, I was lucky to be reaching around in there and I guess I finally broke it completely open because it did start leaking at that point.  Hope you figure it out, can be a real challenge to track down the gremlins sometimes.

8 hours ago, Greg Carter said:

Thanks for these replies and ideas.

i did change the fuel shutoff a little while ago but not related to this issue 

jim bob you mention a cracked line so I’m wondering if you recall where that was and what type of line. 

And Blue Steel since you said a clamp do you recall where that was.

we had the return line hose split a couple years ago close to the injection pump return outlet so it was a easy fix sine there was enough hose to cut out the split. That hose is the only connection that I’m aware of that used a hose clamp.

time to open up the tank side panels I guess and start a detailed trace. Funny thing is like Jim Bob I’ve found no fuel leaks anywhere at this point. 

When that return line split it spewed fuel all out the back and over the toad so easy to spot that one.

thanks again. Lots of great info and help here.

 

It was after the Wynn system and up close to the engine... see the picture with the smaller rubber tube and 3 clamps on it.  It has been a couple of years so my memory is not great, but I had worked on the fuel shut-off in the past and was just reaching in there to check it and noticed the rubber line was looking old and cracked.  Once I touched it and moved it a little it did leak fuel, but had not done that until I messed with it.

My 95 did this for a while and I eventually found a crack in the fuel line.  Luckily it was in an easy spot to splice in a piece.  It didn't leak fuel at all, just would suck in some air and I just stumbled upon it one day.  Engine ran fine once primed so it took me a fairly long time to figure it out.  I tried making sure the filters were tight, etc. with no joy.  Pretty much my only solution for a while was a stick I kept in the front that I could use to reach through the grill and hit the Wynn button.  Hope this helps.

Jim

I usually change both of mine at the same time, but I have the system that primes the lines, so it will fill the filters and cycle out the air.  If you have something similar that will purge air/water from the fuel line then you should be able to change both and just cycle it 3 or 4 times.

Yes, you were very fortunate!!!  Just sending well wishes on the repair, I am not the electrician on this forum.  I have electrical gremlins I've been chasing on mine for years.

might be easier to just replace them both with something new, instead of trying to find one that is 10 years old????

Was time to leave California about 35 years ago...

the old saying...  the only thing that works 100% of the time on your RV is the owner.  Hopefully, it is something that you enjoy doing.

A price range you are wanting to spend would help.  Andrew Steele just did a review on a really nice Signature on YouTube.

On 7/28/2022 at 10:20 AM, sg47619 said:

I did mine in a 01 Monaco Dynasty.   I took it out cut 4 1/2 inches off the height and 3 1/2 inches of the depth and put a swing out bracket on the 32” flat screen. 

Yours is in the same spot as mine.  You were able to remove the TV cabinet only and cut it down?  I have only looked briefly, but the screws holding it in were not readily apparent to me.  Suggestions where to look for the connecting points?  Thanks,  Jim

waiting on the pictures.  I have planned on doing the same thing for a while now.  Did you remove the cabinet to cut it down?  I am thinking of doing mine in place as I'm not sure how to get it out safely without damage.  Would love to reduce the size of that head knocker!!!

If you enjoy fixing and maintaining then you are in for a good time.  The coaches are pretty solid, except for if someone got behind on routine maintenance.  If it has not been driven much, I'd check the rear wheel bearings too.  Make sure the fuel shut off solenoid bolts are tight.  Seems like I remember someone having an issue of them working themselves loose.  I'd go easy on the eternabond tape... and not sure about enamel on fiberglass.  There is a special process of sanding, cleaning and sealing that is not an easy process but it sure looks good when you are done.  If you inspect the fiberglass closely for spider cracks, etc you will know when that is needed.  The air dryer is something that seems to get overlooked.  I opted to just replace the entire unit.  Fuel filters are always a source of problems if that gets neglected.  Hopefully it has the Winn fuel/water/air system on it...  easiest way to prime it after servicing it.  The inverter/charger may need to be swapped out... those have improved considerably in the last 25 years...  I also replaced all the 12 volt lights with LED...  Let me know if you run into something particular.  This is a great forum for these older coaches.  Happy trails.  Jim

Mine has been difficult to open for many years.  I think I'm about the only one that can open the door at this point.  My door is different than your pictures and requires removing the entire inside cover/trim.  I've read your repair instructions before and I guess it is time to finally attempt this project.  However, it seems like a ton of work for something so simple.

MD Distributors has the 300200 as well.

https://www.mddistributorsstore.com/index.php?page=seek&id[m]=pattern&id[q]=S3230P

This is where I buy mine.

I have not bought any in over a year as I usually buy several when I order them, but I've not had a problem getting them.  My difficulty was the 300200 pre filter, which from time to time seems to be on back order.  Again... I bought 5-6 of those last time.

what are the dimensions or model number?

Location?

thanks,

Jim

I liked the idea of the Manabloc system, but in reality I never used it.  When mine failed I just replaced it with a copper fitting tree.  No issues since.

Whew, so many things going on here.  I don't really know where to start.  Simple answer is yes, you can get the old one rebuilt and many times it is the best solution, but leave it as it is and just put the rebuilt alternator back in as it was.  Do a search on here.  This topic has been widely discussed in the past as many of us have faced this issue.

glad to hear you at least have a temporary fix.  Safe travels tomorrow!!!

I would have thought that the Pilot would have had it...  so sorry for your troubles.  Its always an adventure owning an RV.

If you can't get it fixed, you could put rain X on it.  Unless it is raining really hard...  you won't even need a wiper.

The GFI is the first thing I thought of.  The wiring never made sense to me on my coach.  I think the GFI in the bathroom also has the basement plug on it, etc. etc.  I think you said you replaced the GFIs with regular outlets?  You might make sure you have them all.  I have at least three in my coach.  Other than the GFI, if you replaced outlets, you might go back through and make sure all the wires are still connected.  Bumping and banging down the road can work magic on otherwise good connections.  I'll leave the issue of replacing GFIs with regular outlets to another discussion.

Another good piece of info would be do the outlets work on shore power and/or when the Gen is running.