Just Jim

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

You got that right, I took a 5 week trip and have been working on the coach +3 weeks to get it ready for the next trip. 

I had a leak during the trip but the delamination was from a previous leak in the same area.  I am actually removing all the caulk from the belt line and then will use Gelcel to reseal.  Also had to redo the gutter on the front windshield.  Had an electrical problem which I thought was the inverter but was actually one circuit, it would not let the generator run but the invert worked fine with it and it didn't kick the GFCI.  With this I made the decision to install a small secondary inverter to run the refrigerator and/or help charge batteries off generator.  Couple other minor problems I need to address.

It never seems to end.

Let me know if you need another set of hands.  I'm in West Knoxville so can't be to far from you.  I love the phrase that the only thing working 100% of the time on an RV is the owner.

Congrats on the CA battle!!!  I'd love to have the schematics for my 95 also, if they are out there.  Does everyone name their coach?  I thought I was an odd ball for calling her Roxy.

I'm in East TN also, when you get real good at this, You can do mine too.  LOL.  I'm in the camp of don't fix it.  I certainly fixed the leaks, but as far as the sides...  does not bother me at all.  On a 1995 model there is always something to work on.

regarding the genset, it should use the chassis batteries for starting.  No prior experience with the fuel gauge issue.  Make sure you have at least a third tank of fuel as it will have a shut off so you can not run the tank dry while camping with the genset running.  More info on what the generator is doing would help.  turns over but does not start.  starts but quits, etc, etc.

Thanks Frank,  I've not heard of that before.  That would be something that Cummins can provide?  Seems like an electronic version would be easier if possible. I am looking for a pre DPF coach... something in the 2004 to 2007 Dynasty, Executive or Signature line.  I have no experience at all with them, but I've heard great things about the Detroit engines that you occasionally see in a Executive or Signature.

He will surely be missed on this forum.  Prayers to the family for peace and comfort.

That was my plan Dennis.  I was also going to do an engine oil analysis, but when I reviewed the paperwork, there was nothing indicating any service history.  There were some other issues, like a soft spot in the floor, the aqua hot exhaust pipe was missing...  just determined that there was to many obvious signs that it had not been taken care of.

I am definitely old school...  which is why when I saw the number I thought that it might have been salvage yard type thing.  Thanks for the info.  This was a coach that had obviously not been well maintained, so I was somewhat leery of it and then I saw that number on the valve cover.  It was certainly priced well, but I think there are to many unknowns.  Thanks again, 

Jim

I've recently looked at a Dynasty that was for sale, and noticed a number like this on the valve cover.  I am not familiar with seeing that on there and was curious if that is normal or would it indicate that it has been replaced? 

On my coach, it requires one of the screws to be connected to the chassis ground.  For the clearance lights, there is also a switch on the dash to flash the lights as a "thank you" indication when someone lets you pass, etc.  It was a very odd configuration that I originally thought would be an easy change out...  ended up taking me the better part of a day!!!

I like many have seen this topic several times.  My coach is a 95 and it seems all those parts are in the back, mounted on the firewall.  I replaced my alternator about 9 nine years ago and took it to a alternator shop to get it working.  I was on a trip when it went out, and replaced it while camping, but never got it working properly.  The alternator shop got it working but he said he could not get the alternator to "turn off".  Said it was constantly drawing power and would run the chassis batteries down if I didn't install a switch.  I did not install a switch, just seemed like would be something I'd forget to turn back on... so I just keep a trickle charger on the batteries when parked.  The post above has me thinking that perhaps I could replace my isolation box with the ML ACR and could fix my constantly "on" alternator???  BTW, I had the old alternator rebuilt and kept the what looked like to me to be a Ford regulator, in case I ever needed it.  Have had no issues so far.  Anyone have a idea about this, feel free to advise.  Jim 

looks very nice, just curious how you got the new one inside....  through the front windshield or take out the front seat and through the door?  Also, certainly would not trash a working old fridge...  put it on Craig's List.  I'm sure someone will buy it.

Obviously everyone is entitled to their opinion, but I don't think it can be assumed that excessive speed is the root cause.  A number of factors would need to be considered to make that determination and I kind of feel it is insensitive considering the loss of life and injuries.  I don't disagree that many RV drivers exceed a safe speed, but I am certainly not going to put this specific driver in that category just yet.  There will be an investigation of course that will include the distance traveled, skid marks, etc.  It is certainly possible that there was a medical event, tire blow out or sudden turn to avoid a deer...  point is we don't know and out of respect for possible family members on this site... I'm not going to disparage someone with speculation.  Just my 2 cents.  Jim  

Prayers for the families and everyone else involved.  This can be a VERY traumatic scene to be involved with.  I like to think that perhaps my Dynasty with a steel structure might have performed better but the physics of a heavy moving object hitting a large tree are just not there.  Just be thankful for each day and hug your loved ones tight.

Sounds like a solenoid may be sticking.  Pretty common problem, if it comes back check that out.  Mine is located on the firewall in the back, others are located in the front run box.  Sometimes tapping it will get it to work. 

I had this happen on my 95 Dynasty.  The solenoid should be on the firewall in the back engine bay under the bed.... at least that is where mine is.  If you have someone flip the switch back and forth in the front while you are back there, sometimes you can here it try to click.  I have had success lightly tapping on it to get it to engage.  After a while I just disconnected it as I could not train everyone not to hit it when they were carrying stuff through the doorway.

You need much more than 20 amps to run 3 AC units. 

Thanks Scotty.  I appreciate the work you and the other moderators do.  A thankless job sometimes I'm sure.

Jim

Kum ba yah, Chuck.  Kum ba yah.

I used to work in the financial area.  There is a saying... The stock market is the only thing people will not buy when its on sale.  If you go to the grocery and they have 2 liter Pepsi for 79 cents, you buy 4 because that is all they will let you buy.  However, if Pepsico stock drops by 50%, few will buy it until it goes back up.  It really is that simple...  of course you don't buy just one company... spread the risk over many, etc. etc.  As far as what is coming, I don't have a Chrystal ball but housing and lumbar prices seems like a very familiar song, hopefully a lesson was learned in 08-09 because I don't think we can afford another couple trillion here and a couple trillion there.  I don't think we will have the same mortgage crisis, but when the economy sputters there will be plenty of opportunities for those that prepare now.

I replaced the unit on the front.  There is nothing really difficult except they are pretty heavy and I'd recommend having someone help you get the new unit up there.  I managed with a rope and protection on the side of the coach, but it was not fun at all.  Its been several years, but I seem to remember one of the bolts broke when I was removing the old unit, of course it had been there for 20 years.  Also, the wiring can be a problem.  My front AC thermostat also was the control for the furnace and was not compatible.  My solution was to install separate thermostats instead of a combination. 

Oh my, That is a nightmare.  Good luck on your repairs!!!  I have never heard of frame issues like that... will follow this thread for other comments.  Jim

That was what I was going to suggest.  Sometimes the front key switch goes bad and you can start it from the rear.  Glad he got it going.  It is not a good feeling to be stranded on the side of the road 500 miles from home.

And yes, if you replace, go with a pure sine wave inverter.  Electric blankets are not all that expensive, but computers, etc are...  The PSW type are not really much more expensive.  The difficult part for me was that the inverter was stuck back in a storage bay that you could only reach while laying on your side deep in one of the basement pass throughs.  That inverter is fairly heavy and difficult to lift and position while contorted like that...  especially for an old fat man like me. 

many of the Monaco coaches have an after market fuel filter set up on them.  One that primes the air and/or water out of the system.  Its a really nice addition, but it can cause the standard Cummins filter in the literature to be different from what is in the Monaco manual.  That may be what is going on with the different filters???  As far as micron size, I'd go with what Cummins recommended.