Eddy B

@BlueSteele Thanks for steering my trouble shooting! Turns out the wire at the battery was taped to the main and hidden under the loom. It was also combined into the main lug. I noticed a fuse holder way back in the battery box. The fuse was pretty corroded. Swapped it out and I’m home!! Thanks again! EddyB

I don’t have any small wires on the chassis battery I moved from the pull off, that’s when I noticed the bumps and speedo. However I got to a safer spot and shut it off. At that point the transmission selector was off. Now it will not restart, seems like the transmission is not coming on. I do not see a fuse or relay anywhere.

I’m not sure what model Allison I have. The speedo is bouncing around also. I’m wondering if it is the speed sensor you mentioned in another post. I also noticed that it only happens when I hit a bump.

98 Dynasty Allison trans is intermittently flashing “Do not shift” on dash and the selector display gets weird. Trans temp is under 200, fluid is full. Any thoughts? Currently on a pull off along pa901

My dash heater core has popped before and I took it apart, fixed reassembled, installed and it still barely did anything (moved any air, provided heat, defrost action...). In the last run of the season, it has popped again and I am not looking forward to the same exercise again for little to no gain. I am considering replacing the AC/Heat system as a whole, with a new unit from Vintage Air -> https://www.vintageair.com/builder-series/?subcat1=Gen IV Magnum Of course all the engine area components as well, but I was thinking of ordering the mock-up front unit and taking the dash out of the RV to verify fitment (find it hard to believe that it wouldn't fit) Has anyone already done this or ruled it out for some reason?

You are right, wheel spacers. They moved the wheels/tries outboard of the frame rails, the bolts that were rubbing are through the frame.

Well, I let this one die on the vine didn't I? Sorry about that. Here is an update on the saga of my rubbing tires... The mechanic ended up installing 1/2" spacers on the rear, which eliminated the rubbing and didn't seem to cause any additional issues. However, fast forward to this year, I had an air leak that was caused by the drier failing. Somewhere along the life of my RV someone replaced the drier with a non-holset drier. I installed a new governor and a rebuilt Holset drier. With the air leak fixed and a higher air pressure in the system, I noticed the RV is riding higher than it had been. I have not tried removing the spacers (yet), but I am thinking the rubbing issue I was experiencing may be due to the ride height being too low. Thoughts??

John Haggard, that place looks GREAT!

It has aluminum wheels on inner and outer of the duals. The tire size on the coach is 295/75R 22.5 I was looking on Alcoa and buytruckwheels sites, looks like the wheels for the rear all have the same outset and inset. The data plate on my RV from Roadmaster says my tires are supposed to be the 295/75R size, but Alcoa says that tire can be installed on a 8.25" or 9" rim. If it has 9s on it dropping to 8.25s might buy me 3/8" of clearance. Still not going to get me the clearance Ivan K has in the photo above, but it might get me by.

I discussed the problem with the lead mechanic at the shop today. He dismissed the offset saying the rims are not available in the rear with varying offsets. The bolt heads that are rubbing are attached to the H member and axle, there is no adjustment possible because it is all welded. They are going to pull it back in the shop in a week or so, pull the wheels and go over everything with fresh eyes. I will update after that investigation. I was really hoping we could swap in a 1/2" different offset wheel and be done, nope. Perplexing.

Thanks for all the input. I was 'out of pocket' today, so only getting to this now. I only have the information I shared, but I am going over to the shop tomorrow to look at this with the mechanic. Ray Davis, I discussed spacers with the mechanic, but I only have 3/8" of stud protruding from the lug nut, so I would have to change all the studs to add a 1/2 " spacer and it does not feel like we are addressing the root cause of the issue. Ivan K, looking at your bottom photo, I would agree, there does not look like there is a way to adjust that as everything is welded. Looking at the photo I have it looks like the same bolt. I'll know for sure tomorrow. I called the prior owner, he didn't know of any repairs or issues in the rear and I dug through the repair history I had from the owner that preceded him. There is no record of damage or repairs on the rear. I think they must be the original wheels, but I do not know for sure. Both sides are rubbing, and I am super attentive to tire inflation (manual gauge check every day before driving and TPMS). I'm pretty sure Pennsylvania requires a wheel pull and brake pad measurement, I'm glad they found it too. Hotrod, They replaced all the bushings in the rear last year (I think the total was 18 bushings). I specifically asked if he saw any issues with them and he said not, I'll look for myself tomorrow. John Haggard and Dennis H, I don't think there is a ride height issue, but I will look at that tomorrow. I am confident it is not tire pressure related. I am thinking the offset on the wheels or some other tire/wheel issue is at play as well. John Haggard, good luck on your checkout! Thanks again for the input. I'll follow up more tomorrow after I see it.

Last year my coach suddenly became really hard to control, the rear was wandering all over the road. The bushings in the rear were all falling apart. All bushings in the rear were replaced and the coach drove great again. Fast forward to this year's state inspection and the inboard tires are rubbing on bolt heads on the frame. They are only touching lightly but the tires are rubbing on driver's and passenger's sides on bolt heads through the frame. There are no broken welds or signs of bent components, nothing is loose. Tires are the correct size and I believe it has the original rear wheels. Anybody have a similar experience?

The rivet used in mine was a tubular rivet. A tubular rivet has a solid section and the shank of the rivet looks like it has been drilled. Using a special squeezer set you can upset the tail so, when installed it looks like this: Choosing the correct length rivet is crucial so that you get a well formed tail but not excessively long or so short that it clenches the pivot arms. This might sound intimidating but it really is not difficult. Here is a link to where I found the rivets: https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/tubular-rivets/ They have the tooling as well. https://www.hansonrivet.com/tools-machines/solid-rivet-tools-machines/hand-rivet-clinchers/ Now, having said all that , when mine failed I used a method similar to the cut off bolt proposed earlier. I am a former aircraft mechanic, so I knew the "right" way to fix it, but couldn't find the supplies. When mine gets loose again, I will fix it with a tubular rivet. Hope someone finds this helpful.

The sealant (black tar kind of stuff) made mine all come out as one unit, then I disassembled it on the bench. Mine had some weather stripping type sealer around the flange where the box meets the firewall (still on it in the photo). I plan to remove that and clean up all the surfaces, then replace with a higher quality weather stripping. I don't want to use a fluid type sealer (think silicone) because I don't want to fight it in the future if I ever need to get back in here.

I've been disengaged for the week, was putting a bamboo floor throughout the coach. Here are the pictures of mine disassembled getting ready to go back in... again, this is in a 1998 Monaco Dynasty, not the exact same model as yours. Hope it helps. By the way, the brass fittings on the AC core are my pressure testing fittings, not part of the installation. The AC contained no gas before I disassembled the system, hasn't been functional for years. I hope to get it working over the winter. I took it apart to get a coolant leak fixed in the heater core.

Jim, I have my 98 Diplomat dash AC (outside the firewall) pulled apart right now. Mine looks very similar to yours except for the drier location. I had to remove the headlight assembly to get access to the cover in your photo. Mine has a heater core leak, it is at the radiator shop getting repaired. My dash A/C has not worked since aI purchased the coach 2 years ago. I pressurized the A/C evaporator to check it for leaks (it passed, yay!) before I reassemble and reinstall. Here are my observations, the cover is only sealed with what looks like weather stripping, mine was completely broken down and crumbly, it would not effectively keep fluids in. So, I suspect the sounds you are hearing are coming from another source (as you said, the drain tube is draining fluid). You are right to be cautious about removing the plastic 'cover'. Mine was very delicate and it holds the evaporator/heater core. However, it came out ok, and I didn't cause any new damage. To repair the cover if you do cause damage just get some fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin(I wouldn't advise using minute epoxy!). scuff the plastic, mix the epoxy, wet the fiberglass cloth and stick to the damaged area. Once hardened, you can drill holes that you covered over. The bottom line is it is really not a bad process to repair the plastic. The rest of the parts are pretty robust, as long as you maintain good practices (finesse not force) you'll be fine.