Twomed
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Posts posted by Twomed
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Picture worth a thousand words.... Mike's video will help you decide whether you have the time/skills to do the job of install. Or if you live a long way from Florida.
I chose to do mine and had no issues. The grinding of the end strip is may not be necessary because it is simply a J shaped extrusion that protects the bottom edge of the glass end wall in the OEM design. After initially starting to grind the thing the outboard end just popped out and I pulled the strip out with Vise Grips. I also used quick dry 5200 that is less runny and sets up in less time. Discussed that with Chris when I did it because I have experience with 5200 in marine applications.
My pics below BUT AS ALWAYS your trim may be different, so maybe start with a grind on the outside end first. This piece adds nothing to strength and the whole edge will be completely encapsulated in 5200 and stainless steel when finished. Makes the job a whole lot easier!!
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Lube well and just work it up and down. It will free up...add to your regular lube maint list. A very often neglected item with the reults that you are dealing with. No need to remove that bolt...
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That is one half of the connector. It is not made to just shove wires into it. You need the mating half to complete a proper approved connection.
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If you look up at the bottom of the lower mirror there should be a label with Monaco and Velvac part numbers.
Jack McCollough at Pacific RV Mirrors is THE place for Velvac. Just replaced mine.
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My arms cracked so had to replace the whole assembly. These have the LED arrows in the mirror and pigtail for the arm mounted turn signal as well. All motors work correctly I would call these 8/10 for appearance, a few minor scratches. These were on 2030 bases but will fit other Velvacs with the stem base and set screws if you want to upgrade to these. The LED arrows are brighter than the picture, I was holding a 9volt batt just to show that they light.
$150 with shipping and insurance. New ones are $450 Passenger side available too.
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Cords can get tangled in the tracks...ours did too. Cut cords at both ends pull them out of track. Add hanging plastic pull rods so you can easily reach over dash, problem solved. Works so easy you will wonder why you used the yank the cord thing all these years. Amazon curtain pull wand.
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IF you have checked all of the above suggest you replace the starter solenoid before the starter. High energy contacts in there get pitted over time just like in the Big Boy. Whole lot less $$ than the starter motor. Any good starter/alternator shop will tell you brushes and solenoids go way before the starter motor...if you can find one these days.
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Two L angle brackets...pop riveted to metal case, drywall screws into overhead. 🙂
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One on each end of that shaft. You got the easy one, feel around on the outer end of that shaft. Squeeze gently listen for grease, too much and you may have it dripping on shoes/drum. Lots of folk miss those, even "techs" at Petro...arrrrgh
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If using Firestick or FireTV go through the set up screen before you buy the soundbar...not all are compatible. They may still work via Bluetooth but you will end up with another remote for sound.
Steaming with Visible for 5 years, mostly good experience, using Weboost and PdaNet. Just got a T-Mobile Home internet for $50 month, working well so far in FL..summer trip coming soon, we'll see, super speeds: 80mb+, 30mb when deprioritized.
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Click on "Surco Store" in the Amazon link then Ladders >RV... several styles and lengths there. Should be something that works for you.
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Drill the rivet, those doors are assembled when warm out of the molding machine. After they set and cool chances of getting them apart without breaking the hinge pins are about zero...then you will have more paint work.
Photo matching after 10 years is better than codes at a good paint shop.
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Sorry...thought you were posting pics of the new ride.
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On 4/18/2023 at 8:45 AM, Dr4Film said:
In preparation of driving over to Talin RV to have Guardian Plates installed on my two roadside slides, I had started up the Aqua-Hot yesterday and turned on my Samsung fridge this morning.
I went to test the hot water so I turned on the water pump but had very little pressure at the kitchen sink PLUS I could hear the pump running flat out fast. I quickly turned off the pump and went outside to investigate.
As it turns out, I had inadvertently left the Black Tank Backflush valve in the on position when I had dumped the tanks a few weeks back. So that's why the pump was running flat out on high speed.
I had no idea that you could flush the Black Tank with just the water pump when not hooked to shore water. My Windsor was not plumbed like that.
A future project on my to-do list is to install a Back Flush Kit to my Grey Tank which is adjacent to my Black Tank with a three-way valve so I can choose which tank I want to back flush anytime I want.
I installed exactly the same thing in my Windsor after I had to deal with a clogged grey tank dump valve that was choked up with a bunch of black slimy greasy crap that had accumulated on the sides of the tank over many years of use. Photo is from my previous Windsor.
Looks like a mod from the PO, including the glue on tank sensor system. Stock, if there really is such a thing, is rinse on top of black tank only.
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On 4/11/2023 at 11:29 AM, waterskier_1 said:
I've used Dana Beads (see Richard's post above) since 2012 - over 10 years - on two different Monaco's. As mentioned above, you MUST use the larger beads on our size tires. The smaller beads were developed for motorcycles and cars, specifically where the owner didn't want to dismount the tire. They are designed to be inserted through the valve stem (core removed). But then special valve cores must be used so they don't plug with the beads. There are NOT recommended to be used on our size tires. See https://www.innovativebalancing.com/chart.htm#CommercialChart for the correct weight for each tire.
Regarding capturing the beads for reuse when replacing the tire, I've had this done 3 times. Once when I changed all the tires since they aged out, one time when I had a flat, and one time when I "curbed" a tire. All were done by the same company, but the last two were done by their mobile tech, onsite. In all cases, the tech knew about the beads, and all carry a compressed air operated vacuum for the purpose. They ensure the bag is empty before each use. The vacuum the beads into the bag, when they dump into the new tire before sealing the bead. I had concerns raised by people who haven't used them, but postulated that the beads could not be recovered, so I bought an extra bag (sized for the largest weight) to carry in case of a tire failure on the road. I have been carrying that bag for over 11 years never needing it.
I have read of other manufacturer (or unknown manufacturer) beads that clump, break down or otherwise cause problems, but never those from the Gold Standard Dana Beads. Make sure you know what the tire dealer is selling, and that he uses the correct weight for the tire size and position (singe or dual).
-Rick N.
currently in Tucson, AZ
X2 but make it 20 years...they used to have only small beads PITA. Big beads are trouble free. Also had them in motorcycle tires...They just plain work.
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Been running those for 18 years, thre coaches...replace at about 6 plus years, my NAPA guy gives thm to poor folk for salvage value, $20.
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http://catscale.com/how-to-weigh/ Unless you weigh and adjust tire pressure according to the tire Inflation charts you are only guessing. Five pounds too much can be be felt in ride and handling on steers, rears not so much feel. $13 on a CAT scale... weigh, go park go inside and pay...do not park on the scales.
Tip ... Push the button, They speak Chinese..."firsway? reway?" Means... First Weigh or RE-weigh You of course are first weigh...Truck number..any thing you want use 3 digit 123 678 whatever. When you go to fuel desk Just say scale ticket truck # 123 company is Private... Pay you$$ and go check your tire inflation chart like this one https://commercial.firestone.com/content/dam/bcs-sites/bridgestone-ex/products/Databooks/TBR/Firestone-TBR-Load-And-Inflation-Tables-08-07-2018.pdf
Maybe not as good as 4 wheel weigh but certainly better than guessing, air ride coaches seldom vary side to side more than 100 pounds per a guy who does 4 wheel weighs.
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https://legacyhydraulics.com/products/ These guys have a lot of stuff, good phone help, fair prices...NOT RV, MARINE, AIRCRAFT type pricing$$$$$.
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Smith method of truck driving...make you own bubble of space, adjust as necessary. Nothing more valuable than the real estate in front of you.
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Just left this morning...I teach for RVdriving school.com. Seven couples since last Wed...about 80 miles each in SOB's. So glad to knock down 250 in the Dynasty getting back to Gainesville.
For the record I would not trade ours for any of the bumpy, noisy, harsh ride, wind noise, coaches I rode in for a week.
I love my Dy!!!!
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Try the simple stuff first. The flasher relay is mounted on the right hand side of the FRB looking in. It vibrates loose and needs to be pushed down into the socket. Secure it with a wire tie around the relay.
Hope it is that easy for you, but I have "fixed" this issue on at least four '06 Dynastys after finding it on mine years ago.
Good Luck
Try the simple stuff first. The flasher relay is mounted on the right hand side of the FRB looking in. It vibrates loose and needs to be pushed down into the socket. Secure it with a wire tie around the relay.
Hope it is that easy for you, but I have "fixed" this issue on at least four '06 Dynastys after finding it on mine years ago.
Good Luck
Wet bay (Cargo) heater connector & Background - FWIW
in Electrical Systems
Posted
Those are from the Monaco Fiche