timaz996

This is what mine looks like.

Wow, that is nothing like mine. These coaches are truly snowflakes.

If you take out one of your speakers in the ceiling, you will be able to see the gap that your air conditioning duck runs through. You’ll be able to see each side on either side of the AC duct I believe the gap is about 2 1/2 inches high. 

I don’t know if Monaco change the way they made the roofs but on my coach I used one and a half inch self tapping screws, and Daycor to seal the mounting points of my solar panels. Four panels have been up there for seven years and the other four on one year and I have been driving 60 miles an hour in some very wicked winds Without any problems. Four of my panels are set up to tilt so they are mounted with aluminum angle iron with four screws at each end. The other four stay flat, but they end up being mounted with the same number of screws. Like I said, no issues . I have speakers in the ceiling, and if you drop them down, you can see into the cavity that the air conditioning ducking runs through in between the roof and the ceiling and my screws peek through about a quarter inch.

After screwing with my gauges for so long I just went with the SCANGAGE. You have the Alidian so you have the same thing. Monaco dazy changed all the grounds on the gauges so it sucks. Every once in a while all of my gauges work correctly, So I figure it's a ground somewhere but have given up on try to find it for now.

If sizing is an issue look up Lossigy 200 ah batteries. I have four for the last two years and love them full timing.

I would suggest wiring a relay in to run just the headlights. The switch can run the running lights fine but both create a lot of heat. (resistance)

It's sad that so many people will trash anything.

22 minutes ago, Paul J A said:

Pictures please.

Yes, As Bob H. said, check all electrical connections (both 120v and 12v) as our lovely smooth roads will loosen them up. Loose high amp loads can start fires and do.

No help with your question...But this is just another reason I converted to True Toppers last year.

Here is mine from a 2000 Dynasty.

17 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

Why would brakes drag. I know nothing about the system   Im thinking of replacing the exact fitting leaving the option for the toad brakes.  If not I can do like Ivan suggested n get a straight fitting .

is there  an issue with this system? Should I stick with the brake buddy, haven’t used it in the new toad yet.  Hate cause it damage.  Reliable or no?  

Sorry I'm don't anything about the Brake buddy setup. Someone here should.

3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

NO!

When I bought my coach one of the fittings on the AF1 reservoir leaked just like yours, but it can't cause your air bags to leak down on one side!

As long as it was plumbed correctly.

With the shape of our roads you got to wonder where all of the fuel tax money goes...Good for you to catch it.

The small black tank looks like it came with the Air Force One braking system. Do you have that for your toad? I (think) the valve on the small tank is a pressure protection valve if you have the Air Force One braking system.

Good Idea

Looking from the inside of the brake drum their should not be much gap between the shoe and the drum. (if drum brakes)

If the pump is running I would say the fuses are good. Their may be a hydraulic valve you can rap on with a wrench to see if it's stuck. 

What engine do you have? Pictures would also help.

When you have a boost leak you will also have high exhaust temp. I would recommend anyone with a turbo diesel to have a pyrometer. With low boost you will see very high exhaust temp. Be careful. 

That switch will keep the steps out when you shut the door. (So the steps don't go in and out every time you open the door)

Michael you may be able to take it apart and clean the contacts to fix it.

2 hours ago, Thomas said:

Got a 2004 holiday Rambler. Navigator with a rv 3012M xantrex inverter. And the microwave and some other appliances make loud Humming noise when on the inverter... Getting 120 volts but my hz are reading like 745.63 [ this reading is wierd but heard that modified sine wave might not read right ]or 49% on my meter.. When on shore power or generator i'm getting 120 with 60 hertz or 59%.... Shouldn't the inverter Have the same as shore power..? 
Been this way since we got the coach 2 years ago..is this going to ruin the appliances..?  As it came with a residential frig from factory.. and most plugs are live when on the inverter.. been doing some reading up on the inverter and I'm pretty sure it's a modified sine wave and not a  pure sine wave, which would explain the Humming maybe..? But why wouldn't they put in a pure sine wave.. is the Humming hard on appliances..? My voltage is good even when using microwave.. 
Thank you for your input..?

This is one of the reasons I changed out my inverter to a Victron MultiPlus II. It's so much nicer having a hybrid inverter/charger.

When my check valve failed I replaced it with a ball valve.