timaz996

I would suggest wiring a relay in to run just the headlights. The switch can run the running lights fine but both create a lot of heat. (resistance)

It's sad that so many people will trash anything.

22 minutes ago, Paul J A said:

Pictures please.

Yes, As Bob H. said, check all electrical connections (both 120v and 12v) as our lovely smooth roads will loosen them up. Loose high amp loads can start fires and do.

No help with your question...But this is just another reason I converted to True Toppers last year.

Here is mine from a 2000 Dynasty.

17 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

Why would brakes drag. I know nothing about the system   Im thinking of replacing the exact fitting leaving the option for the toad brakes.  If not I can do like Ivan suggested n get a straight fitting .

is there  an issue with this system? Should I stick with the brake buddy, haven’t used it in the new toad yet.  Hate cause it damage.  Reliable or no?  

Sorry I'm don't anything about the Brake buddy setup. Someone here should.

3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

NO!

When I bought my coach one of the fittings on the AF1 reservoir leaked just like yours, but it can't cause your air bags to leak down on one side!

As long as it was plumbed correctly.

With the shape of our roads you got to wonder where all of the fuel tax money goes...Good for you to catch it.

The small black tank looks like it came with the Air Force One braking system. Do you have that for your toad? I (think) the valve on the small tank is a pressure protection valve if you have the Air Force One braking system.

Good Idea

Looking from the inside of the brake drum their should not be much gap between the shoe and the drum. (if drum brakes)

If the pump is running I would say the fuses are good. Their may be a hydraulic valve you can rap on with a wrench to see if it's stuck. 

What engine do you have? Pictures would also help.

When you have a boost leak you will also have high exhaust temp. I would recommend anyone with a turbo diesel to have a pyrometer. With low boost you will see very high exhaust temp. Be careful. 

That switch will keep the steps out when you shut the door. (So the steps don't go in and out every time you open the door)

Michael you may be able to take it apart and clean the contacts to fix it.

2 hours ago, Thomas said:

Got a 2004 holiday Rambler. Navigator with a rv 3012M xantrex inverter. And the microwave and some other appliances make loud Humming noise when on the inverter... Getting 120 volts but my hz are reading like 745.63 [ this reading is wierd but heard that modified sine wave might not read right ]or 49% on my meter.. When on shore power or generator i'm getting 120 with 60 hertz or 59%.... Shouldn't the inverter Have the same as shore power..? 
Been this way since we got the coach 2 years ago..is this going to ruin the appliances..?  As it came with a residential frig from factory.. and most plugs are live when on the inverter.. been doing some reading up on the inverter and I'm pretty sure it's a modified sine wave and not a  pure sine wave, which would explain the Humming maybe..? But why wouldn't they put in a pure sine wave.. is the Humming hard on appliances..? My voltage is good even when using microwave.. 
Thank you for your input..?

This is one of the reasons I changed out my inverter to a Victron MultiPlus II. It's so much nicer having a hybrid inverter/charger.

When my check valve failed I replaced it with a ball valve.

That is an aftermarket over temperature protection device. If it sees the temperature where it’s connected on the tubes to get too hot, it will shut everything down. So either it has died and you need to reset it or you actually have a problem with the cooling portion of the refrigerator. 

There should be standard air chuck on the driver's side next to your propane tank. The one up front by the Gen is for a tow truck.

10 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

The gunk in the plastic bowl looks like classic bio diesel gone bad.  Some of the parts in the metal filter look like they sure could be from a fuel hose.  Are there any unnaturally rounded smooth chunks, or bits with a grid from the woven hose reinforcement?  Those would be the smoking gun that's it's hose material.  The plastic bowl stuff looks like it would be softer dried varnish like stuff, from bio diesel. 

I am no pro but those chunks in the filter. Don’t look like a hose to me. Speaking of bio diesel. I have a son-in-law that drives a fuel truck in Arizona and he said there are no separate tanks in the ground for bio diesel. Sometimes they haul biodiesel sometimes they haul regular ultra low sulfur diesel and it all goes in the same tank. So when you buy diesel, I doubt you’ll ever know what you’re getting.  No matter what this stuff is, it gives me another reason that I am happy I put in the FASS on my motorhome. I have the dreaded caps pump and lost it in 2019 and shortly after I put in the FASS set up.

You can jump start the chassis battery but you most likely will have to let your car run at fast idle connected to the chassis battery for a while before you try it. 

Got to love your government...

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Dometic-H551916AXX1J0-Air-Conditioner/5HHNXE068LI8?from=/search

Go out to the rocker switch that starts the generator on the generator itself and look for any codes. If you have the Cummings manual, it will give you the codes which is the red light flashing on the switch. It will flash in two different groups with a pause in between.