Dbircky

Only you know what you might be risking from underinsuring.   I carry very similar coverage as you do.  I have high deductibles that dramatically lowered the annual vehicle insurance costs.   

I also keep mine inside plugged in, don’t disconnect anything.  I’d forget I did come spring.  

I found my snap disc on the floor under the water pump on the opposite side from where the heater was.  The heater was also installed behind the panel facing away from the pump.  It was bad.  Put the new one in the freezer for a couple of hours before installing to check it.  Heater shut ifff when bay hit 44 degrees.  

I’ve wondered why mine shows a build date of January 2008 (sticker by drivers seat) but is designated a 2009.   Did they partially have it built before bankruptcy and finished afteR they re-opened with the greatly reduced staff?   I did ask at REV in Indiana they said they had no records on delivery dates for Oregon built units.  

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

They came from the factory, even in the same model year, I have been lead to believe, DIFFERENT.  On a friend's 2009 Camelot built within a month or so, it was NO IGNITON required on his.  I found the wire to the relays and did my own, relocation.

Bottom LINE.  switch on or off....if you lightly bump it or whatever, it seems to be more sluggish.  Maybe in the motor or whatever.  The tech said my mechanism was slightly loose and needed tightening and he lubed it and it does run and sound much smoother.  It was TOTALLY inoperative when I quit using it.  THEN after a few trips, I just took it to him.  We had QUIT using it.  The vibration, I am assuming, got the mechanism out of the "implied" bind.  When he started working on it....it worked, but he then did all the PM under and behind it.  Now it works....but you hold it down and it has yet to fail us...

Tom.  My 2009 Camelot was built in January 2008 and the step cover only works with the key on.  You’re correct these things are unicorns.   
 

I replaced my incandescent bulbs with LEDs.  No heat, less energy used, and brighter lights in the bays.   Direct replacement no need to change fixtures.  

Your AquaHot will run fine from the batteries.  FYI.  

Tom, 

thanks for the help and updated manual.   Got it reset.   Found a red wire w/3 amp inline fuse broken.   Repaired it and waiting to see if that is why the cube tray heater wasn’t working.    Now showings no faults when I run the diagnostics.   

Dr, I don’t hear the water running in, I’m now on six days.   The fingers to empty the ice cube tray haven’t moved.  

Fish, yes, a 1402.  The fridge has been running for 6 days.   The ice cream is still frozen hard.  I can’t feel any water in the trays.   

Tom, have both the users and installation manuals.   There’s no power at the solenoid, all the fuses are fine.   Cleaned every connection, still no water flowing into the ice maker.  

Ran the diagnostic tests.   Now showing “E11” freezer heater.   Also is now stuck on “CALL” on the main display.  Turned off and back on, unplugged refrigerator and ice maker, and shut off main power and refrigerator circuit.   “CALL” is doesn’t disappear.   Guess I’m calling in the morning.   

Lights and refrigerator fan are still running.   However the freezer fan isn’t running.   But in test mode it that fan runs.   Chasing down fuses and connections again.  

I finally decided to use the ice maker in the fridge.   When I bought the 2009 Camelot, the 1/4 inch water line from the shut off valve to the electric valve wasn’t connected.   I put in a new line and compression fittings.  Water flows to the door dispenser fine, but no water is going into the ice maker.  The bail is down and I manually activated the gears which showed they are working.   I’m sure I missed something simple, anyone know what that is?   

Filled up yesterday in Stanton VA for $4.99, no limit.   Filled up today in OH for $5.19, no limit.  Bought power ball ticket, didn’t win.   2/3 not bad winning percentage.  

Thank you Paul.  

Check your public library for 3d printing.   I just found out mine has one that’s free to use, you just have to pay for materials.   Now my questions:

1) is the download a “STL” file?

2) is the filament the type of plastic used?

3) is PLA suitable for this use?   From the library “All filament is PLA. Choose from Orange, Purple, Yellow, Green, Blue, Red, Brown, Grey, Translucent, Black. Glow in the Dark (Green) and White.”    Glow in the dark?   Tempting lol

4) is 10 cents per gram a reasonable material fee?

Thank you.  

Where were you limited to 100 gallons?   I haven’t run across any limit on quantity, but those $500+ fills…
 

I’ll take 10 passenger side and 6 driver side.  
Thank you.  

Installed the passenger side, driver side still originals.  
Every parts store I went to told me there was no LED substitute for 893s.   Kid at AutoZone to me to check the Amazon.  They had them.   Had to file the plastic a bit where it was melted to get the new bulbs in.   That’s probably why the old one broke as I pulled them out.   
The fog light is from harbor freight.   

Much brighter.  

Before and after cleaning the lenses. 
Chrome spray paint on damaged assembly, waiting on LED bulbs before reinstalling. 
Light mounted on passenger side. 
Light turned on.   No docking lights installed yet. 
Closer view of flood light mounted to frame under at propane bay. 
 

I also decided that the step light was better served connecting it to the inside step lights after hitting my shin on it in the dark.  
then I decided that actually seeing the edges of the step was an even better idea.  Two 3/4 holes drilled into the outside edge solved my shin issue.  Last picture.  

 

The two identical pictures posted upside down?   Sorry

I wasn’t happy with the poor light put out by all four of my docking lights.  So I decided to remove them and clean the inside of the lenses as they appeared tan and cloudy.   Once I took them apart, found the insides were heat damaged from the halogen bulbs.  I’ve ordered LED replacement 893 bulbs, and will try cleaning the assembly and spraying some “chrome” paint in there.   Tiffin has the replacements for about $55 each   

Out of curiosity, I removed one light assembly from the side and switched it on.  Within a couple of minutes, the entire assembly was too hot to comfortably hold.  

All 4 lights had similar damage.   While I had it apart, I added a low profile LED fog light (wired to the docking light) ahead of the drive axle pointing out at about a 45 degree angle.   Now I can clearly see where that tire is when backing in the dark.  
 

Not sure what a pana slide is, but my PDQ’s driver side front slide tilts out as it moves out.   I was told it’s normal for the flat floor, but it’s hard to watch. 

3 hours ago, Happycarz said:

93-99 Jeep Cherokee tail lights are used in the Camelot's.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/350813076136?epid=1879619873&hash=item51ae16baa8:g:XigAAOSwth9jK9LF&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8BXM4LZMLCHRrml9wfPccjt4TR4mSnDsUPIcQ%2F7skPszeJ99SFM%2Fx3MoO9UWMi6t96Uq0zUSsFOA7Y3SD7ol9lGXXNNWSG8vEbHpo5G4mSrsTwV6wcfgzlihHE1iNWXdVVxHXsqmK0%2BN%2FgNRS1rsqUmgdqhWMHLiQqCiF7JtlNTJhIoCEHNpfzGEyU7GOc3doGBRo4oiCBnLPLhAgod3ZAoiC2EagB0hlicR3%2FG%2BCXYX7EROdDJYoO2qNheGsvbIziUPL45QhIBir8ojr2pW%2FwWHMNjl1m2lYCY8kxwxz0PciwSEsCOiYOsvegltE90Qbw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM6p-98O5g

Thank you, those are what I have.  

Thinking of updating taillights on my 2009 Camelot.  Here are the numbers on them.   I’ve tried doing a search, but haven’t found the exact match.   (Still buffing wax off) Anyone know where these lights were from?

Thanks.  

Last trip put 127 gallons in my allegedly 130 gallon tank.   The generator was still running too.   I do drop the right side and lift the left side when filling from the left.  Is there a way to have the fuel used display more than 99 gallons?   

16 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

So, if your '08 is the same as mine, zone 2 should only have fan, cool, heat pump. Correct?

Both 1 & 2 have:

OFF

FAN ONLY

COOL

HEAT PUMP

FURNACE

Before the reset Zone 3 had exactly the same in the same order.   I just tried another identical thermostat, an Zone 3 still fails to appear.   So at least I can rule that out.    Time to start chasing the wires between 3 and the thermostat.   

I did the reset due to Zone 3 modes blanking out after setting them AND setting Zone 1 and/or 2.    If I set Zone 1 or 2 first, the Zone 3 modes would blank.   At all times, however, Zone 3 still showed at the bottom of the screen and I could change and mode in that Zone, just not see it on the screen.  In other words Zone 3 still functioned, there was just not a way to see which mode it was in.   
 

I only have one thermostat, 3 A/Cs and Aqua Hot heating.   Zones 1 and 2 are working on all modes.   Have pulled each communication cable off and cleaned the connector including the one that plugs into the thermostat.  
 
I am not clear on why resetting the dip switches would help as none of the controlled units were changed nor was the thermostat.  Is it possible that a single zone can just die within the thermostat itself?

Have a Duo Therm thermostat.   After doing a reset on it, I lost Zone 3.   The 3 no longer appears on the thermostat and neither the A/C or Aqua Hot will come on on that Zone.    Zones 1 & 2 still work as before.   Nothing else has been changed.   Pulled fuse for thermostat and left it out for 20 minutes, Zone 3 still not appearing.   Cut all power to coach, still no Zone 3.  Zones 1 & 2 still work as before.  Pulled thermostat from wall and disconnected/reconnected comms cable.  Did the same at each A/C unit.   Zones 1 & 2 still work, Zone 3 still not appearing.
Any ideas of what I missed?