Jim Byrd

Not unusual if you have second charging source connected to the chassis batteries when you engine is running, 

Jim

1 hour ago, slaterson1 said:

I can't tell really, there is no label for the refrigerator, the only thing close would be the galley lights/rope lights. I pulled the fuse panel off the wall and all the wires are white, not the color shown on the labels. Either way there are no blown fuses there, I pulled and checked them all. Maybe I'm just slow or missing something. 

My refrigerator 12v DC is connected to the CHASSIS battery. you need to look at the chassis fuse list that can be found on the inside of the cover located in the compartment under the drivers seat.

I had difficulty in finding it on mine. it was listed on the fuse index inside the cover.

Not sure about the location on your rig, the 5 amp fuse is located in outside compartment under the drivers seat on my Holiday Rambler Endeavor,

I would use caution when tightening or looseing the brass fitting not to twist and damage the welded nipple.

1 hour ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey mornin Jim, yes it sounds like air, when i replaced my radiator i used a system that pulls all the air out of the cooling system then you attach a hose and feed the new coolent in thru the same device. As for the two small hoses, 1 goes to top of radiator, the other goes next to thermostat housing, the intension is that they burp any air traped within the system. Remember the heater also is a source of coolant, so while driving be sure to turn the heat control open to “high” to allow it to eventually purge any trapped air in it.

Thanks for the response. I removed the coolant by using a vacuum canister thru the recovery tank.  I only drew the fluid about 2 inches below the bottom of the recovery tank which is about the same elevation as the top of the radiator.  I did run the heater on high when running the engine with the pressure cap off.  I felt the heater hose at the temperature control valve and they were warm.  I expect that the trapped air is in the heater core because it's the highest point in the system.

I refilled the coolant with a low volume battery operated pump thru the recovery tank.

Did your device just pull a vacuum from the system when connected to the recovery tank?

I'm going to try and run the engine at hi idle with the pressure cap off and the heater on HI and see if it does any good.

Jim

I had a slight drip of coolant from the bottom hose connection on the recovery tank.  I tried tightening the hose clamp with no success,  I proceeded by siphoning the fluid (5 gallons) from the recover tank to allow me to remove the hose to inspect the nipple on the nylon tank and the hose. The nipple look good, hose was deformed from over tightening of the clamp.  The hose was long enough to allow me to cut the hose just below the area where the clamp was.  Hose was reconnected and I proceed to slowly refill the coolant with a small pump however I could only get 4 gallon in and I was at the MAX level line on the recovery tank..

I assumed that I had air in the system and I started the engine ran it with the pressure cap removes until the the thermostat opened. I observer this by watching my Scan Gauge get up to 165 degrees then decreasing to 161 degrees.  I left the pressure cap off and let it cold down for several hours with no change of the level in the recovery tank, still at the MAX level.

I then place the pressure cap pressure tank and took the RV for a 20 mile drive, temperature were normal 165-170 and heater output was normal.  Checked level and still at MAX line,

Appears to have air trapped some where in the system.

Anyone have any idea on how to the system.

I plan on replacing the nylon tank and hoses as soon as I can get a replacement tank. 

Does anyone know were the 2 small hoses (1/4") on the top of the recovery tanks go? 

Thanks for your help.

Jim

1 hour ago, bandmmorris said:

I have looked multiple times and cannot find any other wires to connect. I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same. Since my initial post I have made a little progress. In the rear run electrical compartment I noticed 4 small enclosures that when you take them apart there are fuses inside. One had 2 - 30 amp fuses that were blown. I replaced them and now when I jumper the starter solenoid with the key on the engine will start and run fine, but the starter solenoid will not engage from the switch. I have transmission and check engine lights on and the transmission shift buttons still do not light up. Must have shorted a cable when installing the new batteries.

My 04 Holiday Rambler came with a trouble shooting flow chart on some of the drawings. Maybe your drawings have the same. Let me known if you need them.

Jim

I have first hand experience, I was rear ended while in a turning lane. At the time of the accident we were in the left hand turning lane and was stopped waiting for the oncoming traffic lane to clear when the right rear of toad was hit. Both safety cables broke as well as the tow bar collapsing. The brake safety did not pull loose or break. The toad did move because the damage jammed the right rear wheel. My toad wa totaled. Fortunately my MH only suffered minor damage, radiator, fan and lower center grill were the destroyed, only minor body damage.

There also was no injuries.

Blue Sea products are the way to go, great products, great service and support.

Our  04 Holiday Rambler Endeavor didn't charge our chassis batteries when plugged into shore power. We replaced it with an Automatic Charging Relay (ACR). 

Jim

Wire nuts are a poor choice for any connection for your main power cord. All a #12 wire too small, minimum size for 50A power cord is #6 wire.

48 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Cummins ISC 330 with 160a alternator. I had a suspicion from my last start that the chassis batteries weren’t charged fully. I’m not good about watching my gauges so didn’t have an idea of a problem before noticing this. I don’t have an ammeter but do have a chassis voltage gauge. Decided to run the engine for a test. First I checked the chassis batteries with a voltmeter and they were just barely over 13v. When I turned the key on the panel voltage showed a little more than 12v.  I started the engine. Seemed to crank good but it took about 5 seconds for the voltage to move off 12v and indicate charging at about 13.3-13.5 volts. (Difficult to tell since the gauge is in single digit increments. One of my old engineering professors would say you can’t resolve it closer than one volt.) It showed 13+ For about 15 seconds the went back to about 12v for 5 seconds then 13+ again for about 15 seconds. I hit my stop watch to see if it maintained this regularity and it did for about 6-8 cycles thenit went steady at 13+v for a couple of minutes before I turned the engine off.

The next day I had to move the coach to a new site. The voltage went through the same process, about six 20 second cycles then stabilizing at 13.3-13.5v for the ten minutes it took to move.

We are near Denver for now but had planned to go to the mountains for some boondocking to test my new solar installation but with this issue I decided it would be prudent to have the charging system checked out. Of course it was a Friday afternoon so finding a shop was difficult. Luckily I was able to schedule an appointment for Monday morning at a local diesel shop.

Does anyone have any insight about this issue? 
Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 

The voltage swings that you are observing when starting a cold engine are your plate heater cycling on and off, this is a normal occurrence.

Most likely you have a bad heating element.  If you can access the front of the heater you should be able to check for 120 V on the heater connection.

Jim

2 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Thx Jim,

There was a box in a top shelf on a door, and the flap was under the door seal. Removed that and will monitor some more.

Paul

You should be good to go.

Jim

38 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Thanks. Those may be just right.

Make sure that you don't buy a set that is too tall.  I purchased some 15 T ones and they are too tall,  They make some stubby ones that would better serve your needs.

Jim

On 7/22/2021 at 7:31 AM, Jim Byrd said:

I had a similar problem with the same refrigerator, I found the refrigerator evaporator frozen up.  I checked with local Samsung repair facility and was told that most likely cause that refrigerator door were no being completely closed. I removes all  contents from refrigerator and freezer and unplugged power for several hours with doors open to allow refrigerator evaporator to defrost.

We had the problem when we had guest with us in the coach when we had this problem and don't believe they where not getting the doors fully closed.  We now make sure that both refrigerators are completely closed by firmly pressing the doors closed.

We have never had another problem since taking this little extra effort when closing the doors.  The Samsung repairman reported that it's not and uncommon problem on this model.

 

Jim

Your picture of the iced up evaporator looks just like mine did when I was having the same problem.  I even went to the trouble to remove the refrigerator to access the control board (accessible from top of refrigerator) to verify that defrost heater was was working. properly. .

Make sure you doors are sealing properly before you dig any further.

Jim

I would take to Colburg OR to the west coast REV service center.

1 hour ago, pwhittle said:

Our RF 197 has worked great for the four years we have owned it.

For the last few days the freezer has worked great at -2, but the fridge is set at 36, and the fridge is showing 53 degrees.

Any suggestions on what to check?

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions

 

Paul

I had a similar problem with the same refrigerator, I found the refrigerator evaporator frozen up.  I checked with local Samsung repair facility and was told that most likely cause that refrigerator door were no being completely closed. I removes all  contents from refrigerator and freezer and unplugged power for several hours with doors open to allow refrigerator evaporator to defrost.

We had the problem when we had guest with us in the coach when we had this problem and don't believe they where not getting the doors fully closed.  We now make sure that both refrigerators are completely closed by firmly pressing the doors closed.

We have never had another problem since taking this little extra effort when closing the doors.  The Samsung repairman reported that it's not and uncommon problem on this model.

Jim

2 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

Jim,

Is this what you are looking for?

 

Actually I not sure what I'm looking for. The radiator was remove from a shop in TX and once they removed it they determined it was more of a job than they wanted to take on.  The coach was the then towed to another shop where the  fan shroud was re positioned and the fan and radiator replaced.  Once I returned to WA I took the coach in for the body work to be done and the shop informed that they had discovered damaged rubber isolation mounts and that they would be needed to be replaced. I'm just trying to help them find the right parts. 

Thanks for you help.

Jim

1 hour ago, cbr046 said:

Hopefully I took the pic from the perspective you're thinking about . . . . from the rear, under the fender, just under the license plate.

- be radiator

The angle of your picture is just fine, but the rubber vibration damper are attached to the bottom of the horizontal member that the radiator sits on that is attached to the frame.

Jim

Thanks for you response.

Look like my 04 has a different design.

Jim

I'm in need of a picture of the location of the bottom rubber vibration isolation mounts for a 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with Cummins 8.3 ISC engine.

I was recently rear ended while traveling in Texas and the radiator and fan were damaged, I had the radiator, fan an fan shroud repairs made in Texas and deferred the body work until I returned to my home state of Washington.  I'm now having the body word done and the body shop has informed me that the new radiator was installed without the bottom rubber isolation mounts. It looks that the isolation mounts were damaged in the collision and only the bottom portion of the mount remains.

Thanks for your assistance.

Jim 

When choosing a replacement make sure the wiring enters the enclosure are in the same relative position and that the attachment terminals within the enclosure are in a position for the existing wiring to reach.  My preference is to fine a replace that has a terminal block to make all external connections  vs one that has connection on several different components within the enclosure.

You can get the sending unit from NAPA,