Bill C

2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Gary, yes, I recall that discussion.  A stuck turbo actuator will create lots of soot and plug the DPF.

A number of years ago I also had a sticking VGT.

The problem first surfaced as a hesitation when going down hill with the jake on, then at the bottom of the hill turning off the jake and starting to accelerate.  When I did that every once in a while I would get a hesitation like the jake wasn't disengaging.  After a year or two, the problem became more consistent.

But, no check engine light or stored fault codes.

It was driving me nuts.

Once I figured out how to drive to consistently create the problem, I connected the cummins insite software and recorded in real time all the engine parameters.  Still no check engine code.  In analyzing the data at home, I noticed that the turbo boost would drop to zero each time I had the hesitation.

Hmm, on checking, I found that for the turbo actuator to throw a code, the target vs actual actuator position must be out of sync for more than 10 seconds before getting a fault code.

Every time I had the hesitation, I would let off the accelerator.  So, no code would be set.  Back out for another drive and this time I kept full throttle when it hesitated.  After ten second, a 2387 code popped up saying that the electronic turbo actuator was bad.

Replaced the actuator and problem solved.

Sharing just in case someone else out there runs into a similar problem.

How did you use the Cummings insight software? I would like to use that myself but I never heard of it before.

On 3/15/2021 at 5:50 PM, nocreek141 said:

Hi I purchased a NexLink NL102PLUS HEAVY DUTY scanner on Amazon. It's manufactured by Nexas.  It was $195 and worth every penny. Heartily recommend. I believe it does All codes + Dpf regen and reset.

I also purchased the NexLink NL102PLUS HEAVY DUTY scanner on Amazon, but it won't read my "warning light" even though the light is on. It reads codes, like active ones when I turn the key on and such, so I feel like I have it connected properly. What codes have you been able to read?

On 3/15/2021 at 2:21 PM, DavidL said:

Diesels don't use OBDII.  OBD2 is for passenger vehicles / light duty trucks.  Diesels use J1708 (pre 2003 ish) and J1939 (post 2003ish)  6 pin for J1708 and 6 or 9 pin for J1939 connector.   2003ish can use both at once for different things.   You need to look at your connector and / or contact the powertrain manufacturer to know which protocol yours uses (it's important to get this right).

 

Look at ScanGauge or Bluefire  https://bluefire-llc.com/website

I asked this question before, but no on ever answered me. Does the Bluefire read malfuction codes?

55 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

that is great info Ray I sure appreciate you sharing it. I will reach out to him ASAP

Thank you in advance for all of you that take the time to share your knowledge. I know your time is important, and I appreciate your sharing it.

My rear (possibly the front also, not sure) automatic ride height quit working and I found a "T" fitting near the ride height valve that was leaking and I hoped that this would fix it. After replacing the “T” I tried to adjust the ride height valve, but it was not responding to any of the changes I made to the valve.

I felt like I was out of my limited ability to troubleshoot it so I took it to the local Cummins and RV repair center (Empire Truck Sales) for repair. After 2 hours of labor they told me the ride height is adjusted all the way up. No kidding, I did that when I tried adjust it. Did they try to adjust it and find that the ride height system did not work? NO!

After charging me 5 hours/$1000 (yes 5 hours) for troubleshooting they said they thought it was the front air valve (I took it in for the auto rear ride height not working). I told them to fix it, as long as they guaranteed me this would fix the problem. I was skeptical because they were focusing on the front, when I thought that the issue was in the rear. After all, for 5 hours of troubleshooting their “expect” could have checked every valve, wire, screw, etc., right? Well, it did not fix the ride height issue and now they say it is a AP15554 DUMP CTR MODULE, at the tune of $3850 to replace and adjust. I don’t think these guys know what they are doing, even though they tell me the tech working on it is the one HWH calls for assistance. If that is the case, HWH is in trouble.

Yesterday I spent some more time troubleshooting it myself and found the following:

1.     The coach (2001 Monaco Dynasty with 8 air bags and a tag) auto levels perfectly. All leveling valves fill, and dump, when I manually push each button on my 600 series HWH control panel.

2.     I can manually adjust the ride height and drive it without issue

3.     All fuses (one in the vehicle fuse box labeled Bag dump) and all the ones in the HWH control box underneath the coach are good

4.     With the key on (or off), air pressure up to normal psi, HWH off, travel light on:

a.     I have not voltage at the control box at the “Front travel (grey) 1700” wire (measured inside the control box at the connector)

b.     I have not voltage at the control box at the “Rear travel SOL (grey) 3700” wire (measured inside the control box at the connector)

Can I apply 12v to the Front and rear travel wire in the control box (4a and 4b above) to see if the ride height airs up? I would have the brake on, engine running, and air system at normal pressure.

I don’t know where to go from here, there are so many wires, solenoids, and valves, that it is a little overwhelming. I have read this in one of the posts, which helps me better understand the system: “The HWH leveling system is totally independent of the ride height control valves to put the coach in ride height for traveling. The ride height control valves play no part in the auto leveling of the coach. “

I have also read the “Air suspension and HWH System troubleshooting guide”

Thanks in advance,

Bill

I have been wondering this myself. I look forward to hearing the comments from these experts that we have on this forum

Hi Stan,

I have the hydralift for my Goldwing and love it. I tried the shelter like cover that hydralift sells to go over the bike, but my Goldwing is so wide it ended up rubbing the saddlebags and truck. I now use the SKNZ Stretch Fit Motorcycle Cover and have been pretty happy with it. It seems like when hauling a motorcycle on an RV there is always a compromise. While the SKNZ cover keeps it nice and clean, it sure soaks up the rain, and gets pretty heavy when wet. We just take it off and let it dry whenever it gets wet. I've also started putting a regular motorcycle cover over the SKNZ cover when it is going to rain and that seems to be a pretty good solution, as it keeps the bike clean AND dry.

1 hour ago, Frank McElroy said:

There is a NEW updated download file on Monaco Technical Tips.

Of the nearly 290 Tech Tips issued by Monaco from 2001-2008, we originally only had just under 70 of them in our files.  Thanks to Scotty, who found over 200 additional Monaco Tech Tips, we now have nearly a complete set. 

THANK YOU SCOTTY!!!

I pulled all the nearly 290 individual PDF files into one PDF master file – put them all in the same format and made a linked Table of Contents. 

This means that you can download this new single PDF file (400+ pages) and when you see a topic of interest, just click on the title in the Table of Contents and it will bring you directly to the technical tip.  (If you have an older version of acrobat reader – just page down to the correct page number listed in the TOC.)

As with the parts list, this PDF file has a search feature also activated.  Just type in a keyword of interest and it should bring you to the technical tip.

Not all tips will apply to all coaches but, there is so much in common that I suspect all this information in one document will be about as valuable as the PARTS LIST.  I suggest it be downloaded and saved to your computer for review and future reference.  Happy bedtime reading!

 

Thank you so much Frank for taking the time to do this.

I think I heard mention of a parts list. Is there a parts list I can download? 

1 hour ago, StellaTariche said:

Wow they have so many pan tilt cameras, which one goes with the 360 system?

 

38 minutes ago, StellaTariche said:

Hi Bill.

‘You only see the flattened and stitched together images - just like a drone would see.

You *can* choose to see two different flattened and stitched images side by side (selectable) or only a single image.

You can also see the unprocessed fish eye camera outputs (if you like) (not sure why anyone would).

AND for integrity, the four separate camera outputs - unprocessed- are actually what is recorded. Insurance and police want to see the unprocessed originals if there is a need. They have tools to stitch them together if needed.

BTW, a separate weather proof camera that has pan an tilt controls- controlled by your iPhone /iPad - mounted on the roof - is a great way to see that low hanging tree branch. Inexpensive. Get the night vision version. About $80. 

- John

Slave labor is awesome 🙂 

It's Bill again.  I plan to order this, but it seems like there are 2 different size camera, is that correct?

Also, what size monitor did you get, 7 inch or 10 inch?

13 minutes ago, StellaTariche said:

Good to know, thanks again

Man you did a great job, well done Sir!

I am curious about the 360 camera system. I like the view from above the RV, like a drone, but the convex mirror views would drive me nuts. Am I to understand, with this system, you can watch a view as if it was from a drone above the RV, like in the video?

I have the soft start on both my A/Cs.

It was easy to install with the directions they give, and I can tell the difference on compressor start up for sure. 

I have not had to run both A/Cs on 30 amps yet though, but I don't anticipate any issues. I plan to turn the Aqua Hot electric part off, and will turn off one A/C when I turn my microwave on just to be safe, but I think that is normal?

17 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:

 

Can the Bluefire read engine fault codes? I have a 2001 Dynasty with isl 370 and can’t seem to find an engine fault code reader that works with a darn

Thanks for the pic

I think I know where that thermostat is in the basement that you’re talking about. I wasn’t sure what that was for. Can you send me a picture of it so I can confirm?

I have the same rig (queen 40). I don’t have a diagram of the waterlines but I do have the aqua hot book on this system if that helps. If you get anything please let me know I would like to have that also. I have a heat exchanger in the bedroom in the bathroom in the toilet area under the couch under the kitchen counter and in the front by the driver. I don’t know where a seventh one is in my camper where is yours? I did find out that the heat exchanger fluid lines  between the driver and passenger seats goes forward into the generator area and then down and back underneath the floor to the Aqua-Hot System. I also found that the heat exchanger fluid lines under the couch appears to go under the shower and bathroom sink in my coach.

Ok thanks 

 Do you have the URL for RV park reviews? All I could find was CAMPGROUND reviews

My 2 cents:

I visited the Marathon factory in Eugene and watched how they build their coaches, including how they built the wiring harness. They built it from an engineered schematic. I'm sure the schematic is saved in an electronic version for each coach to be shared among Marathon builders. It would be so easy for them to email it to the current owners if they wanted to. Why they don't want to, I'm not sure, but I suspect it has something to do with money, and how they can make more if a Marathon service center fixes it instead of the owner.

WRT Monaco, and their buyers, including REV. I have been dealing with the Monaco tech support for many years and have watched the transition from company to company, including REV. At one time Monaco had all the electrical diagrams, schematics, part numbers etc. but as Monaco changed hands they told me that "the schematics were not turned over to them from the previous company”. I suspect this is a convenient excuse to not have to worry about looking up this information and providing time consuming tech support, which costs them money. Very poor customer service, but luckily when I first purchased my 2001 Monaco Dynasty, I sucked them dry of all the possible information, schematics, diagrams, etc. as I could, just in case the new owners said "we no longer have that information".

Just saying.....

Bill

3 hours ago, rpasetto said:

Good idea

17 hours ago, rpasetto said:

Very good info, thanks for Sharing.

Bill

 

37 minutes ago, John Haggard said:

See comments below, BTW it's in the shop so I can't really do much at the moment.

Sorry your having such a frustrating time. 

 

Two questions.

1. What is the current pressure setting for your tag axle ? - Not sure, where could I find out?

Did you adjuste the pressure ? Increase it when you added the bike lift. ? - No

2. Is your HWH system working 100 %

Correctly now. - As best I can tell, yes

I see that you can lift the rear end and travel.

After you lift it to ride height. And go down the road does the green travel light come on. - Green light is one even when the ride height is too low

 

 

I just came back from talking to the service manager. It sounds like their tech and service manager are working together and making smarter decisions.

I was told that they have checked the fuses, and also found that only one of the front ride leveling air bags is working.

I suggested that they remove the panel where the HWH controls are and make sure all the connections are connected. In the past, one or two times, the connections on this HWH control panel have worked themselves lose, due to bumps in the road and gravity trying to pull them off (down toward the road). Here will have that checked.

More Explanation: It seems like for the last couple of years my ride height was getting lower. I just assumed it was because my hydrolift and gold wing motorcycle were mounted on the back of my RV (I do have a tag axle), however I don't recall it sitting lower when I first installed the HL and GW on the back 4-5 years ago. About one month ago I notice when I was pulling out for a trip that the back end was so low that the rock shield was dragging the ground. I was not sure of the problem, but since I was leaving on a 2-week trip I just raised the rear of the RV using my leveling system. Everything seemed to be working fine driving down the road, but I suspect it was because I raised the ride height using the leveling system air bags. Every time I got ready to leave my camp site, while on this trip, I did as I usually do, turned the HWH leveling system off but the rear of the coach would never raise at all unless I used the HWH system to manually level it. As I recall, neither the driver’s side, nor passenger side raised in the rear (without manually raising them) so I believe the issue is common to both ride height air bags. I got under the rig and I did find a "T" shaped air splitter leaking air so I replaced it (DOT approved from NAPA). I thought the “T” splitter was for the ride height air bags and that once I replaced it all would be good. However, while replacing it I noticed that it was actually not part of the ride height air bag system, and was disappointed it did not solve my problem. Upon further inspection, looking for leaks (found none), and tracing the ride height system I realized that I needed to take it to the shop for the experts help. It has been at the shop since Wed (4-5 days) and all they have been able to tell me is that the ride height valves are adjusted all the way up (I tried to adjust one early on in my trouble shooting). I asked them: well, is the ride height system working, and they told me "we don't know, we didn't test it". I was very frustrated and had some words with them about my concern that the tech working on it is not too qualified. The shop assured me that he was and that he works on these all the time.

A couple days later I called them to get an update and was told that the tech said we needed two valves, that both had failed. I told the service manager I found it hard to believe that both valves failed at the same time, but that they were the experts so I said "OK but if you replace both of them and it did not solve the problem, I did not want to be charged for the replacement." The service manager started thinking I was probably right, it would be unusual for both to fail at the same time, so he was going to go back to the tech and discuss it some more. It has been a couple more days now and they called me last night to tell me that the tech had been working on it but has not found the problem yet, but that they had to move the tech to another job that came in before me and would work on it again on Monday, 2 days later.

I hope this "further explanation" helps. I am wondering if it could just be a fuse somewhere?

One more thing: I have a 8 air bag system (4 front and 4 rear). I can't remember which.

Thanks,

Bill

After replacing the T air fitting the problem was not resolved. It doesn’t seem to be an air leak as best I can tell. I feel like it might be electrical since neither air valve is working. I took it to the shop and they’re chasing their tail saying it’s both air valves. I find it hard to believe that both air valves would fail at the same time. Is there a fuse or something electrical  for the ride height airbags?

My system has a backlit light for the diesel switch that turns the aqua hot on. I really like that because my Aqua-Hot Shuts off sometimes. When it does the back light turns off as well. If I didn’t have the backlit light on the switch I would not know that Aqua-Hot Shut off on me. It is extremely useful for me, but that’s me and I have problems with my acquired it seems like