Bill C

Just to close the loop on this request for help.

The problem was a result of my replacing the chassis batteries at the same time.

Let me explain: My chassis batteries were 6 years old and leaking acid so I decided to replace them. I had to drive to a nearby city to get them at NAPA auto parts. It seems that the size/type 31, in high-capacity starting batteries are not so common. My best option/price seemed to be NAPA, and since there is none in the small town I am in, I had to drive about 45 min to get them. Accordingly, to get the core charge back, I removed my old ones and took them with me. I turned off the master cutoff switch for my chassis batteries. The new batteries did not have posts for the battery cables, but instead had threaded posts. NAPA, nor my local auto parts stores did not have what I needed so off to Amazon to order screw on posts. While waiting for the screw on posts I decided to finish my generator project. Long story about that, but when moving to Gen in/out I ran in to the issue of it stopping after a few seconds, sounding like a bad resettable fuse. I went in the back of the coach where the resettable fuse was, as Ivan said it was. I trouble shot this fuse and all was good. While doing this I noticed a clicking sound in the other compartment in the Eng. compartment. It was the battery boost solenoid. Why in the world would this be tripping when trying to move the GEN? I decided, at this point, it could be the fact that my chassis batteries where still not hooked up yet. I decided to wait until they were installed and connected. Low and behold, this solved the GEN slide issue.

Thanks for all the wonderful tips and advice. I hope this summary helps someone else someday.

Regards,

Bill C 

On 5/10/2024 at 7:04 PM, Frank Bergamo said:

Yes, they are replaceable. Some are mounted with a band type clamp, similar to a hose clamp. Others are bolted to a mounting plate with small bolts or screws. Once you see what type you have, pretty self explanatory what needs to be done to remove. In addressing the starting and stopping, does the pump motor stop running, or runs but you get no movement? If pump runs with no movement, then check fluid level is full. Hope this helps.

Thanks Frank

I can't remember if I still have it, and I am away from home for a while.

Contact me in July when I am home and I will look for it.

Bill

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

I am only chiming in because ours could be the same configuration and if so, we have a 15A self resetable breaker on the driver side run plate in engine room (very left bottom). It supplies power to the system but not the motor. That one gets power from a post in FRB, same as the generator. 

Hi Ivan, nice of you to help out "again" 🙂

Good call, I'll check that out, it sounds like the culprit 🙂

Thanks

Bill

1 hour ago, Frank Bergamo said:

Yes, they are replaceable. Some are mounted with a band type clamp, similar to a hose clamp. Others are bolted to a mounting plate with small bolts or screws. Once you see what type you have, pretty self explanatory what needs to be done to remove. In addressing the starting and stopping, does the pump motor stop running, or runs but you get no movement? If pump runs with no movement, then check fluid level is full. Hope this helps.

Thanks Frank

On 3/6/2024 at 5:43 PM, Tom Cherry said:

OK....Let's get back to basics.  Look at the attached Print.  The Dynasty and UP (Exec) are the same.  Look in the middle FAR RIGHT section of the drawing.

There is the Parking Brake switch. When it is PULLED UP or ON, there are two things that happen. A GROUND signal from the Switch goes to the Red Parking Brake Light (Dash) switch.  The OTHER side of that light has PLUS 12 VDC. 

That GROUND also goes directly to the pump Solenoid GROUND. That is a BLUE Wire. The Solenoid HAS to be GROUNDED to work.  SO...  This is COMMON FOR BOTH the House Slides and the Generator Slides.  SO....that Nasan Parking Brake SWITCH's GROUND is necessary.  If you GROUND out the BLUE WIre and the Slides WORK....BINGO....the Parking Brake Switch is the CULPRIT.

OK....Follow along.  Look at the House Slide Switch in the lower LEFT CORNER.  The Slide LOCKOUT RELAY provides POWER to the Door Switches....they are DAISY CHAINED....so ALL have to work.  Then when you move the Slide Switch EITHER WAY.... Terminal 5 on the switch makes contact with either Terminal 4 or 6.  They ARE JUMPERED....so you get 12 VDC to the Solenoid.  THAT is what Energizes the SOLENOID...  BUT...Follow that wire.  It is a #16 GRAY wire.  It GOES to a Terminal on the Solenoid.  There are TWO wires here.  THEY are the RETURN POWER to both the Genny Slide Switch and the House Slide Switch....If you trace the OTHER wire back....it goes to the Generator Slide Switch.

SO...here is what happens.  EITHER of the TWO systems will send 12 VDC to the Solenoid.  THIS ENERGIZES the Solenoid.  This STARTS the PUMP.  How the PUMP SAYS...  OK....WHAT IS HAPPENING?

Look at the Solenoid.  Power is coming in, I THINK, on the LEFT Terminal (2 Gag to FRT RUN BAY).  When the Solenoid is energized....the Pump Motor Circuit sends power to the Hydraulic Pump (2 Ga) through the Solenoid....and onto the PUMP MOTOR....MOTOR RUNS.

BUT...If you look Stud on the RIGHT side of the Solenoid, it also has TWO WIRES.  These wires, via fuses go back to the SLIDE SWITCH as WELL AS the GENERATOR SWITCH.  Look at the Slide Switch on the lower LEFT.  Power comes in on Terminal 2...  Then depending on WHICH WAY the Switch is PUSHED....one of the Hydraulic Valves gets POWER.  One SIDE moves it IN and the OTHER SIDE moves it out.  The PUMP Solenoid HAS to be closed and then it also feeds POWER to the Switches.

Likewise, if you are running the Generator Slide....then the Power signal from the Pump Solenoid, via the FUSE goes to the SWITCH.  Then which ever way the switch is pushed...you get Power to the Solenoids in the UPPER LEFT of the PRINT.

SO....BOTH DON'T WORK.  It has to be the GROUND SIDE (Parking Brake Switch. 

One WORKS....and the other doesn't... Then the House Slide Circuit is suspect as it has a relay and FOUR DOORS to go through...  

Genny doesn't work...  Same deal, the Generator DOOR is involved,

This is a "Tricky" circuit....you have to follow the GROUND side and the PLUS 12 VDC side to figure it out.  The Motor Solenoid is also switching CONTROL power....not just HIGH CURRENT to the motor. It the ENERGIZES the Directional Switch and that provides power to the Valves or Solenoids to control the flow and the direction...

Hope this helps.... 

2001dynasty Hydraulic Slide.pdf 134.77 kB · 6 downloads

Good Day Tom Cherry,

    You seem pretty knowledgeable about this slide/Gen configuration, and I'm hoping you can answer my question.

    My LR slide and Gen both seem to have the same issue: They move for a second or two and then stop. It takes a little time (5-10 sec) before they will move again, but then stop again after a second or two. I was thinking it was a time out fuse (fuse would reset after a few seconds), but in my wiring diagram I don't see one of those, and in ready the post by Frank B (There is also a relay switch mounted on the pump motor itself. It will work intermittently then quit all together. It will have a band clamp going around the motor. These are used on dump trailers if you need to source one. Hope this helps.), I'm thinking it is my pump motor relay switch. Is this relay switch replaceable, since it is mounted on the pump motor itself, of do I have to replace the pump motor, in order to replace the relay switch.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

Bill C

On 3/6/2024 at 1:05 PM, Frank Bergamo said:

There is also a relay switch mounted on the pump motor itself. It will work intermittently then quit all together. It will have a band clamp going around the motor. These are used on dump trailers if you need to source one. Hope this helps.

Hi Frank B,  

Is this relay switch replaceable, since it is mounted on the pump motor itself, of do I have to replace the pump motor, in order to replace the relay switch.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

Bill C

1 hour ago, Jetjockey said:

Go to Louisville engineering and purchase a simple to use test box. It will test burner function and point you in the correct direction for repair. I. The long run it will save you time and money. Your control board can become intermittent . Louisville can test and rebuild those also.  As they can the burner control box. 

Hi Freddie,   is this the correct web site, I reached out to them and they don't know what I am talking about.

https://www.louisvilleengineer.com/\

16 hours ago, pwhittle said:

What are your symptoms?

Paul

I have Dash Heat in ALL settings, including A/C and Max A/C.

15 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Just curious,  are you certain the problem isn't on the valve side?

Hi Ivan, yes I have actually replaced the valve, externally plugging a new one in, and same issue.

Hi Bob, thanks for the info. I am considering "easter egging" the parts on this control board.

In which order would you try replacing the components?

I'm attaching a pic of the board for reference.

Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill

10 hours ago, cbr046 said:

@pwhittle You might stock up on the MC33030P controller IC.  I only checked a few places and everyone was out of stock . . . except ebay and those pirates are asking $30 - $40 for a single IC!  😮 

Still better than scrapping and starting over . . . but geesh!

- bob

Good Day pwhittle,

I have two numbers on the chip, does a replacement IC chip have to match both numbers?

What do the numbers mean?

Here are the 2 numbers on one IC chip: MC33030P and CPJQ9934

Thanks,

Bill

Anyone know where I can get the Servo control board for the dash heat and air conditioning in a 2001 Monaco Dynasty? Apparently it turns the engine hot water valve off to the unit when the air conditioner is running. When it fails, you get hot and cold at the same time and that’s not a good combination if you want cold air. I posted about this before but I wanted to see if somebody knows somebody that rebuilds circuit boards. 

Where can I find a used one?

Attached are some pics of it.

Thanks,

Bill

Yes I did Bob, but thanks for the feedback

My Norco 1200 “appeared to” worked perfectly on gas and electric. However, it would not cool. The coils would get hot. The fans would come on and everything look like it was operating normally but inside the freezer nor refrigerator was not cooled. I read a lot of forums and I’ve had a technician on here and he can’t figure it out either. We replaced the control module And we replaced the digital control pad on the front of the refrigerator. None of these helped. I finally replaced the frig with a brand new Norcold 1210. It seems to work fine as well, in gas and electric. However, The freezer only gets to 22° in the refrigerator only gets to about 71.  This is a brand new refrigerator just installed by a technician and this is what I get. I called Norco and they say too bad, So sad, we can’t help you because helping you is a safety and liability issue for Norcold. Take it to a repair shop.
I’m living in it full-time on a small lot and it’s not easy to move it. BAD Nevercold 

Hello Joe. When I installed my passenger side 360 camera, I went through the awning cover  at the top and brought it down the side. When I went through The awning I put a grommet there so that the awning wouldn’t rip and went through the grommet with the wire. Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture at the top but here’s one showing where I am mounted my camera at the bottom.
 

Hope this helps

On 3/21/2024 at 10:24 AM, CAT Stephen said:

@Bill C,

 

Can you share your decision with the group?

I decided to go with the NORCOLD 1210 Untraline, the direct replacement for my old 1200 model.

The reasons: Because of the way my coach was customized when build, and has the aqua hot water lines running under the frig, I have zero room for any size refrigerator larger than mine. I looked in to frigs that were the same size, or will fit in my space ( I did not want to go any smaller), I found these:

A.     NORCOLD Polar Elite N15DC:

1. Same exact size
2. It has a little more storage than mine (15cf vice 12cf)
3. Was the same size, and ran on 12v
4.  Price was $4600 and only came in stainless steel color (the 2 negatives for my wife)

B.     NORCOLD 1210 Ultraline:

1. Same exact size, same amount of storage.
2. It is only $4000
3. The door panels from our old frig can be installed on this new one, keeping the same color scheme. These two are positives for my wife.
4. Personally, I still like the very efficient propone option.

Hope this helps

Bill

Been doing some research, found a new Norcold for $4k, cheaper than any other place I have found,

Here is the link:

https://www.dyersonline.com/norcold-ultraline-12-cu-ft-side-by-side-refrigerator.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhtWvBhD9ARIsAOP0Goiia65Zro7ZhXQZXz9quR0iN0jjcOFtOzpitwzSrWDN2EB0spUNlBIaAnlDEALw_wcB

8 minutes ago, VinceB said:

I realize this may sound crazy, but like you said, last resort time.

Have you tightened up the screws in the freezer and fridge compartments? They are on the back wall.  If your cooling plate has worked its way away from the back of the fridge, it will not transfer cooling to the freezer/fridge compartments.  I had this problem once and I fixed it this way - never worked so good.

Worth a try if everything else checks out.

Hi Vince, thanks for the try, but they are very tight 😞

On another note, I know it's a shot in the dark, but I used to know a Vince Bousa, that is not you is it?

Thanks,

Bill

On 3/16/2024 at 1:48 PM, Rocketman3 said:

If you go Residential you will love the Fridge - more room inside and more consistent temps.

I used a Fisher and Paykel (ordered from Best Buy).  When I  added the residential I also added 400w of solar (two 200w panels and a Victron 100/30 mppt solar charge controller). That seemed to be about right - just for the added fridge load.  You could also get a smaller inverter just for the fridge.

we full-time and boondock most of the time. 
 

if you decide to go this route- let me know and I can send photos and things I learned from my install. Our rigs are both Dynasty’s and only one year apart - so probably very close.

Good Luck!

Hi Rocketman3, which model Fisher and Paykel did you get, the Model:RF135BLPX6-N? 

UPDATE (probably my last): Frig seems to run fine, been running on propane for 26 hours now, fins hot at the top, fan runs periodically to cool the fins, yet after 26 hours, freezer is 47 deg F and frig is 62 deg F. Frig tech said everything seems to be good, he could not see why it was not cooling properly.

With everything seeming to be running normal, WHY ISN'T IT COOLING? Seals are good, and besides the freezer and frig seals are diff, yet both have low temps.

I give up, unless one of my support gurus can assist, I guess I'll be buying a new frig.

Thanks to everyone for their advice, and words of wisdom. No comment is to small, or insignificant 🙂

Regards,

Bill

2 hours ago, cbr046 said:

And with an appointment they can do the work in a few hours . . . That includes putting in a new absorption unit or compressor. 

- bob

Good info Bob, thanks

51 minutes ago, Vince Toscano said:

Hi 

Can you tell me the model number of your fridge? Have you looked at the coils in the back of the fridge? If so do you see any signs of a yellowish substance?

Here is my info: Norcold, Serial #: 885123FA, Model: 1200LR (manufactured Oct 2000), Group Code: 01004

I did not see any yellowish substance.

I took Bob's advice and tried the rubber mallet technique. Upon completion of the rapping, I turned the frig back on. In A/C mode, for some reason, there did not seem to be heat on the tubes, but perhaps I did not know where to feel. I changed over to gas and, after an hour, the lowest tube, and to some extent, the large round reservoir got warm, especially the lowest tube, but none of the other tubes above that, the ones that cross back and forth, did not have any warmth.

Thanks

25 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Don’t make the same mistake I did of putting way too much money into a NoCold 1200  because of Boondocking misinformation about a residential refrigerator. As others have said, $5000 will buy a lot of solar and lithium batteries, not to mention the money saved by dry camping. One 100AH Lithium battery will run a residential refrigerator 24 hours and can be bought for $200.

Holly cow, I did not realize lithium batteries had come down so much in price!

Thanks

14 hours ago, cbr046 said:

$5000 can buy a lot of lithium / solar.  Oh yeah, and a new fridge too. 😉 

Does the boiler (part with the flame / heat elements) get hot?  If so everything is working, except the chemistry. 

I've heard of the refrigerant crystalizing inside the tube and a few hard blows knocking everything lose.  It might be urban legend, don't know.  Worth a try . . . maybe with a rubber mallet.

You might get lucky and run across a new camper's propane fridge being replaced for a residential.  That's what we did but it took months to run across a unit. 

Good luck,

- bob

I took Bob's advice and tried the rubber mallet technique. Upon completion of the rapping, I turned the frig back on. In A/C mode, for some reason, there did not seem to be heat on the tubes, but perhaps I did not know where to feel. I changed over to gas and, after an hour, the lowest tube, and to some extent, the large round reservoir got warm, especially the lowest tube, but none of the other tubes above that, the ones that cross back and forth, did not have any warmth.

3 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:

If you go Residential you will love the Fridge - more room inside and more consistent temps.

I used a Fisher and Paykel (ordered from Best Buy).  When I  added the residential I also added 400w of solar (two 200w panels and a Victron 100/30 mppt solar charge controller). That seemed to be about right - just for the added fridge load.  You could also get a smaller inverter just for the fridge.

we full-time and boondock most of the time. 
 

if you decide to go this route- let me know and I can send photos and things I learned from my install. Our rigs are both Dynasty’s and only one year apart - so probably very close.

Good Luck!

Hi Michael, please send me anything that you have that will  help, I might go this route.

Thanks,

Bill

My Norcold 1200 refrigerator stopped Cooling. It is the original refrigerator, and was repaired once about 10 years ago by the original/previous owner. I am not sure exactly what was done, but was told it cost about $1500 at the time.

Mine was, and always has, worked well since I've owned it, about 8 years now. 

2 days ago, the left door fell off due to a lower bracket failure. The frig was left open/off for about 2 or so hours. Ever since then it really does no cooling. All the door seals seem to be tight, as designed.

I had a spare control ASSY/power board, and replaced the existing one, no joy - still does not cool.

I also had a spare front control panel, and replaced the existing one, still no cooling.

The frig seems to run fine, but just doesn't cool. I tried running it on gas and electric - no cooling. I checked the thermistor; it seems to check out fine. I even took the thermistor off the cooling fin, so it would register the temp inside even warmer. Still no cooling.

I ran the diagnostic and no error codes showed up.

I don't know what else it could be, short of loss of alcohol in the system. Since I have been parked for a few months, that seems unlikely that it would leak out all at once, as I did not see a gradual degradation in cooling over time, and I have a thermostat inside the frig to keep an eye on the temp.

I do not have that third party safety protector on it, which measures the temp in the back of the frig and shuts it off if it gets too warm/hot. I can't remember the name of it, but I've had 3 fail so far, so I finally just left it off. 

Any help would be appreciated. A new one is $5000+ plus installation, and I don't want to go residential as I like to be off the grid without running the Gen all the time.

Thanks,

Bill

Good info Bob and Tom, thanks for sharing.

I plan to have a "professional" in stall it, hopefully they know this stuff as well? 🙂

Thanks