Bill C

Thanks Bob. What did you do about the flue on the wrong side?

I realize that there is a lot of discussion about replacing the old Norcold 1200 with a residential refrigerator, but if we could please just keep this discussion about:

Will the Norcold 1210 Ultraline RV refrigerator easily fit in the Norcold 1200LR space?

Is there an alternative propane/electric refrigerator RV model that will easily fit in the Norcold 1200 space, please share that as well.

Thanks in advance,

Bill

I think my step motor looks like that too. What’s the part number please

1 hour ago, JDCrow said:

Been down this road, search for my posts. I’ve tried all the ones you’ve mentioned and had to bite the bullet and get expensive ones 

Warren, let me know what you decide to get and how it works. I have an 01 Dynasty that looks like it has the same tail lights. If it’s reasonable, I wouldn’t mind replacing them.

All my airbags came with a three-quarter inch fitting that needed to be adapted to 1/4 inch. All my airbags use 1/4 inch to fit the airlines off the airbags.

Yes they are all brass. I got them from a local rubber and gasket business.

One thing I forgot to mention. Three-quarter inch air inlet is too big so I purchased the adapter to bring it down to a quarter inch for each airbag. I also bought swivel 1/4” air connections to connect the airline to the bag. It was a lot easier with the swivel than it was with a stationary connector that you had to  get just right to be able to connect the airline to it. 

My RV is slightly different than yours, but I think the ones I installed will probably work for you.

Here is the link for the 3/4" air inlet:

https://www.truckandtrailer.parts/contitech-as8897-monaco-001804591

This is what I used to get a replacement air dryer on my 2001 Dynasty.

Alliance Part

Air Dryer Cartridge

#: ASP/N10G-R950011

Other Brands:

MERITO WABCO R950011

WABCO (by AXLETECH) 4324100202

VELVAC 034046 (?)

AV950011

MERITOR WABCO R950011

MTRR950011?

TDAR950011?

WABCO 4324209232?

WORLD AMERICAN WA109994?

Size: 10.35 x 6.81 x 6.38 inches

If I ever get motivated again, I'll keep that in mind 🙂

Thanks,

Bill

Great Info Mike, thanks for taking the time to document everything so well.

I replaced 7 of my 10 air bags. When I got to the back drivers side, the rear one (as I recall) it appeared to be a big challenge, and when I saw the tax axle air bags, I said: "I'll let someone else do those, gee wiz they looked hard to do!

Thanks

2 hours ago, 06Windsor said:

Thank you and I’ve figured out the over fill problem. It was my water pump back feeding. 

That seems to be a common problem. Georgia Mike and I Both had the same problem.

I ended up tearing apart/cutting the water connection area, in order to replace the check valve, only to discover that this was not the problem. It was the water pump. 

That's why I mentioned that to you, in order to save you the headache I went through 🙂

Bill

1 hour ago, Jetjockey said:

 

Wondered if it is a variable speed pump. Many motor homes like yours have a variable speed pump that speeds up as more than one faucet is opened.. mine speeds up each time I open more than one demand up to all five faucets. It keeps the flow constant no matter how any are opened. 

I believe I suggested that might be the problem several weeks ago. Glad you got it fixed.

Another common occurrence that is overlooked, is the water pump. Some of them eventually allow water to flow backwards through them into the freshwater tank. When the tank of freshwater gets full, the water comes out the overflow and under the ground. I would not rule this out. 

The solenoid is fairly new and I can hear the pump running so I don’t think it’s a solenoid. I guess it could be low on fluid. I’ll check that when I get back up there.

Has anyone experienced any issues Operating the Hydraulic Slide in Cold Weather? 

We we closing up the RV because we were leaving for a couple weeks. As I tried to bring in the Living room slide the hydraulic motor ran but no movement on the slide. I let off on the switch and the slide moved and inch or so inward. I had to repeat this process several times until the slide was all the way in.

The temp outside was around 26-30 deg F, I can't remember exactly. I did not have time to check the hydraulic fluid level before leaving. BTW, where is it located, near the pump (under passenger seat/front steps area).

As I understand it, the fluid used is like Dexron III AT fluid, correct?

Anyone else experience this?

Thanks in Advance,

Bill

It seems that the valve is a diff model, even though it looks the same. With that in mind, I am hesitant to use their position control module, since I have no idea if it will work, and it has diff wiring, how would I match them up properly?

37 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:

You might try this place to get it repaired 

https://www.acsindustrial.com/repair-catalog/scs/3052547.html

Tried them they don't work on these

On 11/6/2023 at 10:59 AM, 06Windsor said:

2006 Monaco Windsor. My fresh water tank is filling up slowly by its self. It will eventually completely fill up. I just removed the tank/city valve to see if it was not shutting off properly but that wasn't the case. I found a 3 way valve on top of the fresh water tank on the drivers side that appears to be a electric 3 way. What is this ? And what activates the electric solenoid on it ? Does anyone know ? 

Same thing happened to me. After replacing  several things, it turned out to be the water pump was letting water flow backwards in to the fresh water tank.

Replaced the water pump,. problem solved.

Bill

Anyone know where I can get this part for my Dash Heat?

Servo Control Circuit Board 305-2537 REV D

That's my valve, so must be my module

Thanks

Thanks Ivan, I will look for it tomorrow.

Any idea if a replacement is available?

On 10/30/2023 at 6:01 PM, Ivan K said:

Bill, if yours is similar, you may be able to see the motor shaft from a side view. When I was checking ours, I made a sharpie mark on it and watched it turn while DW was turning the dial. If that moves and you still get heat, the flap has likely separated from the shaft. I haven't changed ours but if I did, I would use plugs on the open ports one at a time to minimize the loss. I got a bunch of conical silicone plugs for powder coating but a wine cork would possibly work, just get a case and save them 😃

Update: I purchased a Hot Water Temp control valve thinking that it may be my issue, but unfortunately, I don't think it is the issue. It is hard to see if my existing control valve moves as I change the settings, as Ivan suggested, but I did hook up my new control valve to the  plug that was in my old control valve, and when powered up via the dash controls, I could see the valve move to open the control valve to let water in/out of my dash heat exchanger. Once open, no matter what setting I changed the dash air to, A/C or heat, the control valve remained in the open position, letting hot coolant flow through the dash heat exchanger. 

In looking at my wiring diagram, the next logical (at least to me) culprit seemed like the Position Control Module.

Any thoughts on this? Anyone know where the heck this Position Control module is, or what it looks like?

Thanks,

Bill

Just now, hex_nut said:

I have that issue when I have not used the washer/dryer for a while and the P-trap in the drain becomes empty allowing the gray tank to vent back into the coach.  I simply add a quart of water to the washer and run the drain cycle to replenish the water in the P-trap.

Good Suggestion Richard

Thanks