Bill C

Nut, what nut?

Thanks Ivan, I wish I had knew that, I would not have purchased the 1222, mine is pull out 🙂

Bill

21 hours ago, StephenW said:

Bill,

The cartridge that Ivan K showed is a Moen 1222B for a shower valve that has a handle that rotates to turn on and off from cold to hot.  Your picture shows a Moen shower valve that has a handle that pulls out for on and push in for off and turn left and right for hot and cold. I believe the cartridge you need is a Moen 1225. 

I think you are correct Stephen, it is probably a 1225. The 1222 is too big in diameter, my inside diameter is about .79 inches. I will be able to confirm once I get the Moen tool tomorrow and can remove the old one. It is a brass one and the 1225 tool didn't quite reach it. I've also learned that the brass one's are really hard to get to move, and a plastic tool just won't do the job.

Bill

20 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Yes, ours is turning counterclockwise to adjust. 

Good Day Ivan, Please remind me of my question to your answer "turning counterclockwise to adjust".

Forgive me if I lost the bubble on this discussion 🙂

Thanks,

Bill

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Based on the picture this must be your front tank.  Each hose/tube is color coded to tell what it is for.  I have a diagram for the air systems on Dynasty and Windsor, it is slightly different then yours but I think Monaco standardized.  The large Red tube is for the brake pedal, the small blue is for air horn, the green is sprning relay, the silver is to rear tank, and next to it is a blue which is the emergency brake.    I looked in the files section and I did not find it but it might be in a folder that I didn't check, so I attached a copy of what I had.  Not sure where I got it but it is pretty darn close to my air system and most of the parts are the same.  Here's a post I did when I worked on mine. 

First thing I did was make a set of 6 ramps so I could completely drain the air system and not have work under the rig relying on the jacks. 

Based on the color coding I "THINK" the valve you are trying to source is a Pressure Protection Valve but it does not look like the ones I replace.  I replaced all my PPV's in 2021 along with some other components on the air system.  Each one had information stamped on it, enough to be able to order replacement, some of them were hard to read until I took the part off and cleaned it. 

Best advice I can give you it to remove it and take it to a larger truck repair shop, 

AIR SYSTEM Dynasty and Windsor.pdf 1007.51 kB · 13 downloads

Thanks for sharing this Air System doc Jim, good info.

Bill

Thanks Ivan

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Ours was Moen 1222. Single handed shower faucet. 

Ivan, I read the install instructions on line for a 1222, it indicates that there is a temp Limit, does yours have that? 

2 hours ago, bobdinsmore said:

It is a Moen as mentioned earlier, and all you have to do is call for a free replacement of the cartridge (there are two types). Check out YouTube to see how to remove them; they can be super stuck.

There are three important things to take care of in the removal: (1) you definitely need the removal tool which comes which is included with the new cartridge and do not throw it away when you are done in case you have to remove it again; (2) The copper retaining clasp also can be very difficult to remove: and (3) Remember which direction the flat side of the stem faces when you reinsert the cartridge or you will reverse hot and cold.   

However, I don't think the cartridge is your problem; you replace the cartridge to fix a leak, Much easier, I first would check the shower head to clean out calcium deposits. There also may be a strainer in the head which also clogs with calcium and can be cleaned. There is no strainer in the cartridge to clog.

 

 

Good Points Bob, but how do I get the tool unless I buy the part, and how do I buy the correct part, if I don't know the model, and how do I know the model, unless I remove it. Get my point? 🙂

4 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Moen has a lifetime warranty on those. I replaced mine and got a free spare from them. YouTube has good videos on the removal, they can be pretty stuck.

I would love to find a YouTube video, how would I search for it without the model number?

Anyone have the model number?

Thanks,

Bill

4 hours ago, StephenW said:

This is a Moen shower valve. There is no repair for this stem. To remove the stem unit you must first shut off the water to the valve, then remove the chrome tube around the valve body, should pull straight out, then remove the copper retainer by lifting up on the tab at the top. After removing the retainer, try rotating the stem in the valve body.  Grab the stem in the center and pull out. You should be able to find a replacement stem at Home Depot or Lowes.

Good info Stephen, thanks!

Bill

I have been having issues with not enough hot water in the faucets and shower, especially the shower. There is a long discussion about the Aqua Hot in another thread so I don't want to get in to that part now.

However some have suggested that I look at the shower mixing valve. So, here is a pic of the only part that I think I can realistically get access to. Is it rebuild-a-ble? If so, how do I remove it's insides?

Thanks,

Bill

I miss typed, it's all the faucets, including the shower 🙂

Good question, but it is all the faucets, not just the shower.

Bill

Hi Dan, yes the problem is only the shower, the heat works fine.

I agree with you, I think it is the mixing valve. In fact I was actually able to adjust the mixing valve without removing the burner. You might try what I did: using a screw driver and Hammer, I gently taped the valve and it rotated to the max in one direction and the max in the other direction (about one turn each way).

Do you remember which way was hotter and which turning direction was cooler? Neither way made and difference for me so I am rebuilding it.

Thanks,

Bill

Hi Brian, our flow rate has not changed in years, but the shower temp seems lower. I may just be asking the AH to warm it too much higher than the incoming water temp, which in the winter, is much lower than we are used to.

THANKS,

BILL

Good info Ray. Do you remember which direction turns the water hotter and which direction turns the water colder on the valve?

Thanks

Bill

23 hours ago, Frank Bergamo said:

Bill, I would try turning it back and forth a few times, if it will turn, then returning it to the original setting. If no joy, then small increments turning it one way or the other would be my next option. I can’t find any adjustment procedures in the manual, so hopefully someone with your model will chime in. Good luck.

I tried turning it all the way one way, testing it, then all the way the other way, and testing it. I suspect the valve needs to be rebuilt.

Thanks for the suggestion Frank.

8 hours ago, Twomed said:

This happens when in extremely cold weather.  I worked in Yellowstone for several years and the incoming water temp is about 38 degrees!  Best thing you can do with that cold water is keep your tank full and use the water pump.  The tanks will get the water "warmer" just from Aqua Hot heat in the compartment.  When we get there in mid April a shower is just about all hot water, very little cold, even with diesel and electric on.  Try this before monkeying with an otherwise normal AQH.

Best solution...head South.  Except it's 25 degrees here in Mid-Florida this morning.  Brrrrr  global warming!

That's what I have been doing ever since the beginning of the cold weather, but the water is still not really warm like it used to be. It might have been like this for a long time, but we never noticed it because we usually don't camp in the winter.

BTW, I HAVE a house in FL (and winter there), but I need to be in North Carolina for the winter this year to finish my Tiny Home Subdivision here in the NC Mountains.

Bill

8 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

The tempering valve is almost hidden, it's under/below the burner.  I doubt you can even turn the knob without removing the burner.

They do malfunction, but replacing would be a real pain, plus the Aqua-Hot stores want a fortune $250 to $350 for a $50 item.  However you can buy the inner parts to rebuild.  That is a simple very doable job once the burner is out of the way.   Her is a rebuild kit.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-2-in-to-3-4-in-Repair-Kit-for-Lead-Free-Tempering-Valve-LF70A-RK/205492524?irgwc=1&cm_mmc=afl-ir-10078-456723-irv2.com&clickid=QTnxC3X0VxyIRbRx-t1KvV3dUkAwMl2dLwa3Ts0

Thank you for the good info Ray. I was actually able to move the valve. By using a screw driver and hammer I was able to tap the top of the valve, and the bottom of the valve and could turn it about a full turn each way, but it didn't seem to make any difference so I suspect the valve is bad. Thanks to your help, I ordered the part from Home Depot and should be able to pick it up tomorrow. I'm not looking forward to rebuilding it, but I also want a warm/hot shower, so I will take the time and rebuilt it. If you have rebuilt it, do you have any pointers?

Thanks Again,

Bill

Thanks for the info Frank. I didn't find it, but which way do I turn it to increase the hot water temp?

I have a 2001 Dynasty with the Aqua Hot-AHE-100-01S. I have had so many problems with it over the years, but at least it is finally running on both the 110v and the diesel burning modes. The problem is that the water temp is barley warm in the shower.  I wouldn't call it cold, but it is definitely not very warm.

In coach heat mode it seems to put out reasonably warm air from the floor registers. 

Is there an adjustable thermostat for the shower water temp?

When we shower we have both the diesel burner and the 110v heating element on at the same time.

I don't know if it is significant, but when the diesel burned did not work, it seemed like the 110v mode provided a reasonably warm shower. 

And lastly, it is winter time, so could the outside cold temps make the shower water cooler, even with the diesel and 110v modes both on?

Thanks,

Bill

If anyone wants this, just pay for the shipping and it's yours for FREE.

Bill

Where did you buy the the slide in? I would go back to them and ask them  WTFO

Jacwjames. I updated my post, see above. If my manual says it is an Easton ABS system, that means mine is diff than your Bendix sys, correct, or is Bendix a subsystem of the Eaton system?

Ivan K and jacwjmes, thanks for the help. I found the button for my Eaton (per manual it's an Eaton), and got the following codes:

10 -1

10-2

10-6

Now how do I find out what that means.

Where is that board, in your picture, located Russ?

Ivan, where are you getting the information about the blink codes?

I have 2001 Monaco Dynasty, ISL CM554 8.9L and the ABS light just today started illuminating while driving.

I've seem some threads indicating that the owners can use the ABS module/box to troubleshoot ABS issues (buttons and/or light).

Anyone know where the ABS module is on my coach, and/or have the ABS troubleshooting guide?

Thanks in advance,

Bill