Yes, I knew about that one, and replaced it already, but to no avail.

Thanks

Found them, I have 3 that I will replace

Thanks

1 minute ago, philcarrell said:

You should have two vacuum breakers, one under kitchen sink and one under bathroom sink. They are black about 1 1/2 inches around and 3 inches high.  Black and you can purchase them at Lowes,  Home Depot etc.  That will probably cure your problem.

 

Wow, thanks for the heads up, I did not know they were there, I will replace them ASAP

THANKS Phil

Hi Ivan, where are the sink traps, and what do they look like?

I will add water to the washer drain as well.

All good suggestions.

Thanks

1 minute ago, Jdw12345 said:

You can also check the drain hoses from your sinks to the tanks.

Sink Drain Hoses, mmmm... what do the hoses look like?

Thanks

Good Day all, I hope this is the right place to post this question, but if not, I'm sure our great admin folks will move it for me.

When I drive down the road, we smell something like our black tank, although I guess it could be our grey tank, but I can't for the life of me figure out where it is coming from.

We usually smell it after we have it a large bump, or turned a corner a little too fast. It only smells for a little bit and then slowly goes away. I try to empty the grey and black tanks before traveling, which usually solves the problem, but I don't think it always does. Even a little, say 5-10% full, black tank produces the smell. I thought it might be the ABS in-Line Vent for the washer, but I replaced it and that did not solve the smell issue.

I looked at my black and grey tanks and did not see a crack, or vent leak, on the tanks themselves.

I don't have any fluid leaks anywhere while stationary, or moving (as best I can tell). My roof vent, for my holding tanks, seems to be functioning properly (again, as best I can tell).

Suggestions where to look?

Thanks in advance,

Bill

Thanks Paul

Good Advice Ivan K, I'll give it a try when I get to my destination

Thanks,

Bill

Well, my Dash A/C and Dash heat seem to run at the same time when trying cool. While I have Dash Heat now, it appears that I have Dash Heat in ALL settings, including A/C and Max A/C.

I am planning to replace the coolant control valve, thinking that it is stuck "on", but want to make sure it is not an electrical issue that is letting coolant flow in to the inside heat exchanger all the time (i.e. it is getting 12 volts, opening it up, all the time).

Please see the above pics to see my coolant control valve. 

Below is a pic of my wiring plug that connects to the coolant control valve. Based on measurements, and my wiring diagram, I have made an attempt to label where the wires go/and my readings.

Any insight that you may have would be appreciated.

Also, has anyone replaced a coolant control valve? If so, do I have to worry about a large amount of coolant coming out as I take the old one out, and install the new one?

Thanks in Advance.

Bill

Update:

I finally returned to home and took the dash gauges template off 1/2 way yesterday to look for an air leak in the air pressure gauges. When done, I went to work on the dash heat issue, and low and behold, it is working. I had already checked on the wiring going to the HVAC controls, so I don't think that was it. None the less, if the issue comes up again, I will start with the valve in the Gen compartment thanks to Ivan K. I even have the valve model saved in my amazon list, just in case.

Regards,

Bill

Thanks Richard

What is it used for?

So many times, people post things that I have no clue what they are talking about. I guess they "assume" we know.

I guess if I don't know what they are talking about, I can't help, but it would be nice to know what they are talking about, in case I upgrade to a rig that has the thing I don't know anything about.

Make senses?

🙂😉

Wow, that's a lot of good information. 😉

Thanks Daniel and Tom!

When driving my RV, with an Allison 3000 transmission, I can see it shift through the following "7" speeds, even thought it is a 6 speed transmission (see below).

1C

2C

2L

3L

4L

5L

6L

Does anyone know what the "C" and "L" mean. I'm thinking the "L" might mean "Lock", but even if I am correct (not sure I am correct), what does the "C" stand for and why do I have "7" vice "6" speeds on a "6" speed transmission?

Thanks,

Bill

Hi Ivan K,

Thank you for posting the info and  image. While mine looks a little different, see pics, your post made me go look a little further, only to find out that the plug I disconnected when working on the low pressure switch, was also the plug that controls my hot water to my dash heater. I don't know if that is the problem yet, but I triple checked, and jiggled it, to make sure there was a good connection there. Tomorrow I will test it. If the dash heat still does not work, at least I know of a good place to check, in case the control valve is faulty. Perhaps the leaking freon shorted this part?

Thanks again.  I noticed that your name comes up a lot on this forum, with helpful information, and I thank your for taking the time to share your knowledge, insight, and experience with the rest of us.

All the Best,

Bill

I recently found a leak in my dash A/C. It was the low pressure sensor in the front Gen compartment. I'm sure it is a coincident, but after I fixed the freon leak, my dash A/C worked great. I am traveling and needed some dash heat the other day. When I tried it, it never got hot. When I was in the Gen compartment fixing the low press sensor, I did unplug something that could have controlled the dash fan, vacuums, or something, but I plugged it back in and don't think it is the problem, but I just thought I would mention it. 

Anyone know what allows the engine hot coolant to flow in the dash to provide heat?

Thanks for any thoughts.

Bill

Thanks for all the advice everyone, I tried to find a switch, but no auto parts stores in this little town of MOAB have one so I ordered it.

Luckily, and thanks to Ivan K's tip, there is/was a schrader valve on the coach end, so no freon escaped (not much) so I don't have to vacuum out the system and fully recharge it.

Thanks again everyone, especially Ivan K.

Regards, 

Bill

I have finally found my Chassis A/C Leak! In the picture below, my A/C is leaking from the connectors on this switch (where the electrical leads connect to it).

Now that I have found the leak, I need to replace the part. Can someone please tell me what this is? Is it the high pressure cutoff switch, or what is it?

If you know what it is, do you have a part # or something I can use to purchase a new one?

I'm assuming I can get this at any auto parts store, is this correct?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide?

Bill

My 2001 Dynasty did the same thing when pulling my 7500 truck when I drove up long grades in Colorado and other western states. I changed the fluid, because it had never been changed, and it seems to be running cooler, but I have not tested it on long grades while pulling "yet". Will probably have a chance over the next month, and will update this post with the results.

Bill

My ABS light stayed on for quite a while, and I finally read were one option was to disconnect the batteries from the coach. In other words from the engine part of the RV. Are use the master cut off switch to do this. This reset my ABS system in life is good again with no ABS lights on.

My coach A/C seems to be working pretty good now, so I don't want to mess with it, but I am still confused about this:

Red High pressure: 315-350 on black outside line – but after a while the reading is: 175 and it cools even more, to 60 degrees

Blue Low Pressure: 35-50 on black outside line - but after a while the reading is: 30 (at the same time the high pressure went to 175) and it cools even more, to 60 degrees

My question is: is does the system take 10-15 minutes to stabilize to the best cooling condition? After a while the high pressure came down.

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

I have AAA roadside assistance and have had 3 different tows, no questions asked but none involve in an accident. 

I did a quick check and the policy specifically says NON Collision tow.  Will have to do some more checking. 

What kind of rig do you have. What was your wait time, experience, knowledge of the tower about your rig, etc?

Have had bad experiences with my 40 foot DP from inexperienced towing policies and the people they call to tow me.

Thank you everyone for your assistance. I am still left with a couple of questions:

1. Why are these two temp/pressure charts so different?

2. Why are my readings so high for a while and then level out much lower? I mean it takes a while, and while running, the High Press stays around 350 without the compressor cutting out much, if at all.

3. Should I be reading the blue scale on my gauges, since it says for R143a?

Thanks

I'm not sure if I have the correct forum, or not. It says Air Conditioning, but I think they mean for rood A/Cs, but on the other hand, I did not see any forum for Dash A/C, so here goes.

I have a slow leak in my dash A/C, which is has been there for several years. I’ve had it looked at and the guys says “I replaced an O ring”, here’s a bill for $300, and the next year I have the same problem. I got tired of paying him $300 each year, so I started adding freon myself each year and problem solved.

I am by no means an A/C kind of guy, but I do have an engineering background and understand how it works.

Here is my question: After reading on the forum for several years I have picked up that there are certain pressure readings I should get when the A/C is functioning properly. So, I added freon until the compressor stays in all the time while running (it’s 98 deg here in FL) and the gauges read about 350 HP and 45 LP. See pic below. The compressor does cycle off a few times for maybe 5 seconds occasionally.

Supposedly, based on the chart below, this is close to within range, although if you read my gauges on the inner Blue scale (for R134a) the pressures are much lower. This confuses me.

Cooling is happening in the coach, but nothing to brag about (yet), 70 deg. I left the engine running for 10-15 min and when I came the gauges now constantly show 175 HP and 30 LP (on black R410 scale, much less on Blue R124a scale), and the coach A/C is now showing 60 deg, which I can live with.

What am I missing, if anything?

Thanks,

Bill

My front slide uses the same hydraulic motor as my generator. See if your GEN slide works. If not, it may likely be the relay (looks like a starter relay) up under the passenger side of the coach. Your coach may be totally diff, but it's worth a try. 

Good Luck
Bill

Thanks for the info Dick, it's always good to know a diesel mechanic that can be trusted when in need.