TOBYLB4

Don, I have searched for the manual with no luck. Can you post the whole manual?

Thanks

Toby

Thanks Jim

Yes that's what it cost to get it done. I was 90% sure I could do it, but didn't want this to be a issue in the future. I see from this video I could absolutely do it. So when the lower belt line pops I will be doing it myself. Infomation is everthing. 

Great informative video. Wished It was done a couple months ago as I just spent 4k getting my upper belt done. Thanks guys I'll use it when my lower belt pops!

Bob I need 10 of each side when they are available.

Thanks Toby

Sorry my request was to Cary.

Thanks for the Information. I will do the search, my controlers both work now. Rear has 2 zones and front has 1 zone. Front A/C died in November in Ca. so thinking I will just replace all 3.

Thanks for all the help.

Toby

Mike what thermostat did you buy? And how did you get Home Depot 10% discount?

Where did you get the a/c units? I'm getting ready to replace all 3 ony 07 Dynasty Queen. 

I also didn't like the auxiliary compressor running at night. Ours is under the bedroom. So I installed a toggle switch in the driver's side console and wired it to the fuse. Now I just turn it off before bedtime. I have to use the auxiliary because my air leaks off in about 8 hour. I've been under it 3 times with spray bottle of soapy water and can't find the leak. Retired last September and we are traveling until April. I intend to find my leak this spring.

My 07 Dynasty had same leak on bedroom roadside slide. The tape on the top of the slide was leaking. Had to remove clean and replace. I would check there first. Mine had lifted on the rear portion of the slide.

My valves are glued. Black is glued right to the 90. Gray has about 2 inches of pipe out of 90. What are my options for getting them off without cutting? Can I remove the 4 screws of each valve and bolt back together? Thanks 

My 07 Dynasty Queen has red arrows in the mirror.

07 Dynasty Queen mine was under passenger side bottom drawer next to closet. 

2007 Monaco Dynasty. Coach is leaning to passenger side in Travel Mode. Touch pad shows it's level. I've looked thur the files didn't find anything on this topic. No air leaks levels up in Auto Mode. Is this a linkage problem? Any good video's of servicing the power gear system?

Thanks for all the information.

I have the new switch installed. But the 2nd picture shows the outside of the buss bar with a place to run a ground for the switch. Old switch had no ground to the box. I would think it should be grounded.

I didn't know either. It switches power between rear a/c and washer that are on the same 20 amp circuit. I burnt mine up running both at the same time. The switch has a buss bar inside the box but it's not grounded to anything.

Changing my AES switch. Found my grounds on the buss bar, but the bus bar itself is not tied to a ground. Should I run ground out to the frame or can I tie them in with one of the electric junction boxes next to it?

On 5/12/2022 at 9:13 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Great…..at the risk of “dissing” your understanding.  You now have the rear AC working, but you no longer, assuming  the AESS is the culprit, have or can operate your washer/dryer….which my DW would go bonkers without.  Frank is a valuable resource.  We talked yesterday and he pointed out the design flaw with this system.  It actually is not a Monaco issue, but an Intellitec problem.  That module was never designed for FLA switching (Full Load Amperage).  It also doesn’t address,,from a real world, the toggling back and forth….if I understand.  Since the primary is the W/D, there if the potential, and I assume others have reported this, for the W/D to reduce the current draw during cycles and then you have intermittentn switching ON of the AC and then back off.  That, PROBABLY, results in contact erosion and reduces the life or makes it intermittent.

@Hypoxia has commented and for $8X, you can replace it.  BUT…assuming that Intellitec has not “improved” the design, the EITHER/OR (WD or AC) rule should apply and you can “drive” on.  Otherwise, you risk failure again.

@Frank McElroy has also commented and offered an option,  which is to eliminate the AESS and connect both loads, AC & W/D is a simple approach.  The only Caveat is that there has to be an UNBROKEN RULE.  TURN OFF AC (set to OFF Mode) WHEN USING WASHER DRYER.  Now, the Furnace can be, of course used since it is the AquaHot.

If you want a fool proof solution, that eliminates the “mental challenge” of the EITHER/OR, then, for around $40 in parts (Amazon), you can replace the AESS with a 30A SPDT Contactor and use a simple toggle switch to select W/D or AC.  I will, offline, provide you with the parts numbers from Amazon and a circuit.  This is not complex,  If you switches the loads, you should be able to handle it.  The Primary is NOW AC and that goes to the NC contact.  The W/D is secondary and when you turn on the toggle switch, you energize the relay coil and the W/D has power.  
 

BE AWARE…..the elimination or replacement of the AESS is a “modification” to the original Monaco design…..which many of us do or have done as we believe our approach is equivalent to or is an improvement….AND we have, based on our knowledge or research or with the help of an “expert” made the decision and it meets NEC and/or RVIA standards.  I only say this as I dealt with too many product liability lawyers during my career when I was involved in design.

THE SECOND THING…. This was an education for me, and I hope others.  It also, like another recent Dometic problem, points out that even in the same model as well as in the same year, one can NOT make assumptions or try to help trouble shoot another poster without FULLY understanding that what was done in, say MY 2008, MIGHT (often is) different in MY 2009.  So, without the prints for both MY as well the Owners Manual, the “Mine is like this…yours should be” logic can be wrong.  I really wonder how marketable some of the seemingly trivial changes or upgrades in the next or subsequent years, that I and others now know, will be…..but we keep learning…

Good Luck.  Let us know what you decide to do for a functional system…as you have eliminated the operation of your W/D now….

I have order a new AESS to replace our old unit. Do not use washer with rear A/C on will be displayed on washer. This should care for the issue.

Thanks again for all who helped educate me.

21 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Comment for @Hypoxia

Frank has provided some insight. I was not familiar with the reliability of the unit,  IF you don’t have the electric stove or a dishwasher, then odds are, you only have ONE as the drawing is for BOTH options. Seems like a funky way for a “selector” switch just to allow you to operate ONE appliance from the dedicated breaker.

I would find it….verify that all the connections TO and FROM it are good, on the unit.  I believe that you have measured the voltage or checked for it at the AC inside the J-box.  That incoming line has to be directly wired to the Intellitec.  If you don’t get any voltage, then I would still temporarily hook up power from a heavy duty extension cable being fed from a good source.  IF the AC works, then as Frank suggested, bypass it and put a note on the Washer/dryer to turn OFF the rear AC as you only have breaker.  
 

The replacement module is $84 and is on Amazon.  Put the Intellitec PN and add Intellitec to it in the Amazon search box.  BUT…change the washer dryer usage and turn OFF the rear AC when doing laundry….otherwise, you will replace it again…
 

Update last evening I found my AESS under the bedroom wardrobe. I swapped the primary and secondary and this allowed the a/c to work. 

Thanks again for all the knowledge from this group. Owning a coach is a learning experience.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Comment for @Hypoxia

Frank has provided some insight. I was not familiar with the reliability of the unit,  IF you don’t have the electric stove or a dishwasher, then odds are, you only have ONE as the drawing is for BOTH options. Seems like a funky way for a “selector” switch just to allow you to operate ONE appliance from the dedicated breaker.

I would find it….verify that all the connections TO and FROM it are good, on the unit.  I believe that you have measured the voltage or checked for it at the AC inside the J-box.  That incoming line has to be directly wired to the Intellitec.  If you don’t get any voltage, then I would still temporarily hook up power from a heavy duty extension cable being fed from a good source.  IF the AC works, then as Frank suggested, bypass it and put a note on the Washer/dryer to turn OFF the rear AC as you only have breaker.  
 

The replacement module is $84 and is on Amazon.  Put the Intellitec PN and add Intellitec to it in the Amazon search box.  BUT…change the washer dryer usage and turn OFF the rear AC when doing laundry….otherwise, you will replace it again…
 

Thanks again to all as I'm getting a education. We've had our coach 2 years and didn't know this. Sure I will be learning more as we go. I will get it plugged in this evening and see if it works.

33 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK…the puzzle is starting to make sense,  

@Hypoxia, look at your manual.  Start with page 106.  The notes there tell the tale.

@TOBYLB4, good catch.  The Dynasty 2007 OM says that “Zone 3 (rear bedroom AC) will be displayed as Zone 1 on the REAR TStat”.  Other than being a bit “illogical”, it now makes sense.

You have to understand that the majority of the posters here have a single TStat and it is in the area right back of the kitchen/living area.  If one has a middle AC, it is designated as Zone 2 (and has a separate hard wired temperature sensor in the hallway) and the Zone 3 is the rear.  NOW, your manual says you have 2 TStats.  Yet, in 2008, the Dynasty owners has only ONE, up front TSat.  Typical Monaco. BUT, it DOES have an extra “Dometic” Zone….as in a Dometic roof top, I think, controller, that runs or controls the .bathroom AH heat exchanger.  So much for all coaches being sim8lar….

SO, when folks started to chime in, we assumed you were talking about the FRONT AC unit. Turns out, it is your REAR AC.  

Again. Most folks that are BELOW the Dynasty or it’s counterpart, the Imperial, ALSO have an Intellitec EMS or load shedding system.  You do NOT. You have, based on the wiring and the manual, a dedicated 2 (series strung) Intellitec load shedding system that prevents you from running the REAR AC if you are using the Washer Dryer or an Electric Stove.  BOTTOM LINE…. THIS is where, probably, the issue lies.  Could be a loose connection or a faulty Intellitec.

I suggest you research your system in the owners manual and also click on the Intellitec link to understand and also trouble shoot.

As an aside, Intellitec’s tech support is M&M RV Electronics in Ohio City, OH. Google them. A father and son team.  Very helpful.  Call them for help.

Let us know when you resolve this and what the issue was…..hopefully a loose connection.  Good Luck.

Tom, thanks so much. I just assumed when I said zone 1 everyone new it was the bedroom a/c. All the help is appreciated thanks again. Hope to get back to it this evening.

56 minutes ago, Hypoxia said:

Duh, I just realized you are probably talking about the rear A/C unit with the 00-00714-000 Intellitec Automatic Energy Select Switch which is wired with the Washer/Dryer as the Primary Load which will shut off the rear A/C unit.  

Page 141 of this wiring diagram book 2007 Wiring Diagram  Mine is under a false floor in the rear closet.

"AUTOMATIC ENERGY SELECT SWITCH PART NUMBER 00-00714-000, INTELLITEC NEXT TO WASHER/DRYER RECEPT, NEXT TO MAIN BREAKER BOX, BEHIND TV, OR UNDER BEDROOM WARDROBE"

Automatic Energy Select AC Washing Machine 53-00714-000.pdf 359.32 kB · 2 downloads

Thanks Jim, yes it's the bedroom a/c. I will have to take a look for it. It has to be something between the breaker and the a/c junction box.

1 hour ago, Hypoxia said:

I have a perfectly good heat pump in storage that had been replaced due to a loose wire nut which was discovered when the new unit was installed on a friends coach..

Jim, I will keep that in mind if mine turns out to be bad. Where is it located and how much do want for it?

33 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Jim is right.  Drop the inside filter assembly down and find the wire nuts.  They should be inside a metal junction box.  Clean the connections and reapply the wire nuts.  

Vito, I will check that, but I can see the romex going into that box and checked and there is no power going into that box.

8 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Try this….

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc5.pdf

This is a step by step from Dometic….  Rarely have we seen a Romex line cut or nicked, but it does happen when the line gets hit with a screw or is pinched.  At the end of the day, I would take a heavy duty extension cord and use a 120 3 wire pigtail and hook up external AC.  The HVAC unit doesn’t care where the AC comes from.  The thermostat control circuit must be intact.  Assuming you still “see” zone 1, then with known, good power it should work.  If it doesn’t, then the issue is either the control (switching) board or the starting capacitor.

The tip about switching to fan and running it will work….ASSUMING that the control board or module is switching.

Good luck.  Please give us feedback on what you find and what fixes this…

I think the file is attached….sometimes from my iPad, it gets funky….

ccc5.pdf 672.56 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks Tom, I will try that this afternoon and let you know. I'm sure power is the issue, just not sure why it's not there. If it were a broken romex wire I would assume the breaker would trip.