Mark B

This isn't the area to cheap out considering the cost of the coach and tow vehicle. I went with the road master tow bar and brake system. Bought everything from etrailer and installed it in about 6 hours including brakemaster proportional air brake.

I used the WFCO® - T57 Series 50A Power Transfer Switch, it was a direct fit. I bought it from CAMPERiD.com for $180 with shipping and tax.

They don’t make a bean bag mount for the RV890 yet. I’ve been looking. We used a sticky pad under the screw down adapter for now because the wife wants to see the screen too. It holds ok but not a long term solution. The RAM mounts are 17mm for the 7 series, the RV890 uses a 25mm (1”)ball. I’m open to suggestions too.

Alan, I just did mine last weekend. I used the WFCO 57-R because the wire location and layout was the same. There is enough slack if you remove the wire straps, then install them on new transfer before you fasten it down. Here are my before and after. 

Thank you everyone for your input. Way more going on in this coach than my previous 5ver. I have a much better understanding of the interaction of the chassis and house battery system.

Rick, the purple wire goes to the big boy relay. The "maintainer" is a trickle charger I believe, wire goes to the chassis battery side of the big boy. I will do some testing to see. The drawing isn't very clear. I can follow the big boy trigger wires from the boost switch and the BIRD. Thanks again for saving possible future problems.

Thanks for the advise Rick. How do I disconnect the BIRD or is just disconnecting the house from the isolation relay or "maintainer" enough (not the big boy)? Or is the BIRD controlling another relay? I know Battleborn sells the lithium BIM but I didn't think I needed it.

8 hours ago, JDCrow said:

I’m going to go down the same road. A few questions:

1) it looks like you held on to your combiner solenoid? 
 

2) Do you have a DC/DC charger to charge the lithium from your alternator?

3) Did your shore power go into your breaker panel, and then have a 30 am breaker coming back down to the inverter? Mine does and the inverter essentially powers the microwave and 1 circuit in the coach. I need to pull it all down as the the new inverter is pass through and boost. 
 

Thanks in advance, I’m trying to learn as much as I can. I tackled this a bit on my 5ver, but only has “coach” batteries and not chassis. Obviously. I did run 2 banks, 1 just for res fridge and a bigger one for rest if 5ver with a switch to add the 2nd bank to refer bank if needed. 
 

 

JDCrow, I too had a 5ver before upgrading to this coach.

1) I left the combiner as it shouldn't make a difference as the charging is controlled by the bidirectional relay and the combiner is for emergency starting.

2) In my previous rig I did had a Renogy DC to DC charger with 1/0 wire coming from the truck but not needed in this configuration. If I need to recharge the batteries I will run the generator. The main advantage of the lithium is how fast it can be charged. At this point I'm not worried about the alternator getting over worked charging the batteries as the isolation charge relay should control the charge rate.

3) Shore power goes to the transfer switch first. The to the main distribution panel and EMS. There are two circuits in my coach that go to the inverter, that is why I chose the Xantrex SW3012. Looking back I could have chosen the Victron Quatro or the Multiplus 2. Most of the outlets in my coach run off of the inverter, not on the inverter are the AC's front and back, washer/dryer, Block heater and water heater. There are two outlets behind the refrigerator, one for the refer and one for the ice maker.  I have my refrigerator plugged into the ice maker plug as it's on the inverter, the other is not. This is so I can have the propane off while driving and run the refrigerator off the inverter.

If you don't have the circuits set up like mine you can run the entire system off of the inverter using the Victron Quatro or the Multiplus 2. Both can pass through a 50 amp service. There is additional work that needs to be done with regards to circuit protection and operation. I didn't need to go that route and having a professional set it up can be very expensive. I have about $4500 in all my upgrades, I could have spent way more and I did all the work myself. I have extensive background in electrical and telemetry working in the wastewater industry for 33 years. Check out the Drycamper on youtube, he's shows his builds to see whats possible but he doesn't to diy tutorials. Good luck

I just finished my electrical system upgrade. A little spendy but I now have the system I want.

Replaced the Xantrex RV2012 with a new Xantrex SW3012 and controller with auto gen start.

Replaced the old IOTA transfer switch to a WFCO ATS.

Added a Southwire Surge Guard hardwired in with the remote monitor.

Replaced the solar controller with a Victron 100/50 mppt, 200 watts on the roof expandable to 700.

Added a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, redundant to the inverter controller but it has bluetooth and is networked with the solar controller. I located the shunt in a spot under the main fuse. 

Pulled network cable from the back to the front, ran it up the passenger side A pillar into the control cabinet. This was by far the hardest part of the project. Cables for the battery monitor, surge protector and inverter controller.

Up-sized the wire on the positive side from the battery box to the disconnect, to the fuse, and out to the inverter line. All the negative and positive run to the inverter were already 4/0.

Finally replaced my dead 4-6 volt house batteries with 2 100 amp hour Battleborn batteries.

This project was completed over a five month period with four trips in between. We are going to spend some time off grid to test it all next week on our way to Bishop Ca. Going to stop at Alabama Hills in Lone Pine for a couple of nights.

I'd be glad to answer any question about my setup.

I have the same coach and have also replaced that relay. If it fails again I will do as DrFilm has done and just bypass it.

I tow a 2015 F-159 and use the TST 507 sensors. Flow through on the coach, cap sensor on the truck.

Centramatic says I have the right part, 820B. But I must bend the valve stem to clear the wheel balancer. I spoke with the tech and he said they do it all the time. The balancer must not touch the valve stem or it could wear a hole in it over time as it (the valve stem) is made of brass and is chromed. The tire shop wouldn't install them so I will do it this weekend.

I replaced mine with an LED light and wired it to the step light circuit. The wire for the step lights is close and I just used the clip on wire terminals. The put it in a loom and taped it up really good. I leave it on all night most times and it doesn't need the porch light to work.

Did you ever find out your drum size? I got the 16.5" and they are hitting the valve stem. The drum says 165 so I assumed it was a 16.5", I was wrong I think, anyway the ones I have are going back. I have a 2002 Windsor 40 PST. Can anyone else chime in?

I’ve pulled multiple wires from the back to the front. Network cables for battery monitor, inverter control, surge guard, and toad brake monitor. PITA, but ran them down the middle above the basement storage next to all the other cables. I used a wire fish and a pull line. It’s dirty and hard. I also left a pull rope in case I have to do it again.

Mark

2002 Windsor 40PST

Take a look at AZExpert on YouTube. This shows whats involved in repairing water damage and de-lamination.

Look at YouTube azexpert. He does lots of roof inspections and repairs. Looks like the screws or rivets have broken. It appears to be not that uncommon. You may have to take the topper off and add more screws, reseal and put the topper back on.

If you're sure it's the radiator you should be able to have it repaired. Flex seal is never the answer but there are leak stop additives that may help short term. Also the hoses should have part numbers on them.