MrAmbassador

We use Rotella and Fleetguard filters for our Cummings. In my opinion synthetic for Diesel engine oil is a waste of money. I do not do oil analysis. We are full time and change oil and filters yearly. No problems. 

Jim, all my gauges quit working. I disconnected the Coach batteries for twenty seconds reconnected and they all worked. I hope this will work for you. Have a great day!

I am not sure if it fits the rear of the Knight. They look the same, but I am sure the throttling on the inside is different  (see pic below). I can sell two of them if you can pick them up or pay for shipping. I planned to pay for shipping if all 4-sold.  Please let me know. Thank you. 

Sorry, the part number on the Shock is correct 24-186582. Please let me know.  

condition: new 
rv type: class A 

Bilstein 24-186582 Series HD Shock Absorber Monaco Knight - 4 available @ $80 each

Brand new. Purchased for our motorhome but too late to return when we realized they were the wrong size. 

Manufacturer: Product Description:

BILSTEIN B6 Performance

If you're looking to enhance the performance of your suspension system, the BILSTEIN B6 Performance series is the best solution to improve your car's ride. With unbelievable control, precise handling, and incredible comfort, you'll soon discover there is, quite literally, nothing like it.

Features and Benefits:

Monotube gas pressure construction
Improved safety and sportiness
Added traction and enhanced stability
Increased durability and performance while maintaining ride comfort
Road-tested and fine-tuned by BILSTEIN for each vehicle specific application
Additional Information:

Part Type: Shock Absorber 
Series: B6 Performance 
Brand: HD - Monaco 
Position: N/A 
Application Notes Summary: N/A 
Invoice Description: MONACO KNIGHT FRONT

We will ship to you in USA for free  

Thank you

I had a leak that looked like it was coming in from the top of the door, it turned out to be the seam on the cap on the roof. 

Unless modified, your cool from each A/C (down draft) is flowing back in directly to the A/C return. As mentioned above there should be a leak free seal between the two cavities. I suggest returning all three A/Cs back to its original configuration (which includes foam filters). 

Bob, just a suggestion the next time you add Freon add the type with leak detection. After a few days of running it check the hoses, connection and compressor with a UV light. Hope you can find the leak. 

I would not recommend a steel washer. You want a soft metal between the pan and bolt head. It helps with sealing, protects from rusting and seizing. I to do not replace, but just use it again and again. 

Oh my goodness! Yes, keep the old one and have it repaired as Jon mentioned. This will be your back up. If you had time you could shop around. I was quoted $900.00 for a used one in Waco, TX. Thank God it was just the grounding of it. 

A similar problem developed when the Coach batteries were replaced. Just like John mentioned the ground wires to the TCM were not making good contact. I cleaned each one and it worked perfectly. 

I agree with Rick (drawings), it is best to start at the power source. Does this plug in source have a 50 Amp breaker (each hot wire should come from different legs on the power panel)? If so, do the two hots coming out of it go to the plug in question? If so, Use a volt meter to check that the two female stabs on the left and right each have 120Vs with the black voltmeter  wire is touching the ground or common female stabs. This should tell you if it is connected properly. If it is then on to the Coach. And yes as Richard mentioned  it is worth investing in a EMS protection device. 

I thought my turbo was not working properly. I would step on the fuel and the Coach just sat. It turned out to be the secondary fuel filter. Have you changed out your filters lately?

9 times out of 10 there should be a Schrader valve on the hose connection in order to change out the switch. Don’t run the AC long with the jumper/blade fuse for long. It will eventually starve the Compressor and fail. You can buy that switch at any car part store. ja

My problem was the thermostat to the left of the the low pressure switch, but since it does not look like it has a switch, I would venture to say that what you circled the low pressure switch is probably the problem. If failed it will not provide the voltage to the Compressor. If you have a volt meter turn the key on and check for 12 volts on both connections. You should have 12 volts on both sides. If you only have it on one side the switch is bad (80 psi of Freon is sufficient to activate the switch.  If the switch is ground switch, then just check the Ohms across the two connections. With the key on there should be some residence if it is good, if not it would show an open circuit which means it has failed. Temporarily you can disconnect the switch and place a jumper wire across the connections. Start your engine and check to see if your Compressor engages, if it does the low pressure switch is the problem. Please don’t run the AC long with the jumper, you will eventually damage the compressor. Hope this helps. ja

Hi Mary/Glenn, Our AC was doing the same. Checked fuse and relay,  all good. There is a Thermostat Switch that is used to keep the Compressor from being damaged. It is located in the front where the Evaporator case is. Mine failed open so there was no power to relay and Compressor. You can find a replacement at NAPA or Frieghtliner. Study the attached diagram. Hope this is the problem. ja

Thank you JDCrow, I will look at your post on the Guardian Plates and get with you if I have any questions. 

Scott, I have looked into the Watts and Crossbar systems and have realized that this setup and the Source Engineering setup serve two different purposes. The Watts and Cross Bars primarily stabilize a lose H frame. When this is accomplished the Coach should track straight. The Source Engineering set up stabilizes the Coach frame to the H frames which eventually provides the contact to the road (tires). I had to go back to my Mechanical Engineering school days to identify that the H frame has multiple Degrees of Freedom that need to be managed. To accomplish this, theoretically you need both of these system. In my opinion Ken and Steve have the best setup. I will be installing the Watts and Crossbars on my Coach after I tackle the Guardian Plates on my slides. The Source Engineering setup will do for now. 

I have a 2007 40-ft Holiday Rambler Ambassador RR8R Chassis. When I purchased it it was almost impossible to drive it 65 mph and stay on the road. It was manageable at 55 mph. I purchased and personally installed the Source Engineering Kit. This consisted of the front and rear sway bars, tuned Bilstein (8) shocks and steering stabilizer. 😳 It made a significant difference. I could drive with one hand and on a perfect day could take it up to 80 mph (this was only to test this system, I don’t drive that fast) with no porpoising. I don’t have the TRW Steering Box so there is some play in the steering. I like it like this because the sweet mph spot is 70 mph (I drive between 65 & 70 mph). I know if I change to a TRW Steering Box I would be going faster, I rather not (safety & fuel milage). The Shepherds Steering Box helps to drive slower.  For me this was a well worth expense. I agree with Blacknight that Monaco should have installed this system at the factory.