Joe Lee

I used motor oil and they lubed up well. But, it didn’t fix my problem. If I removed the drive rod from the gear box, then rolled the slide in the 1/2 inch I need to get the slide to move in sync, could that fix the slide being out of alignment?

As a first step, I tried to move the slide lock out as Vito.a suggested. They were kinda hard to move. I got them to move by hand, but the slide lock out made an impression on my hand. So, I will lube them next. Is there a best procedure for lubing these slide out locks?

Thanks Guys! I will check both ideas.

Additional Update: the forward side of the slide extends out from the coach 32.5 inches at the lowest point of the slide. The rear side of the slide extends out just 32 inches at the lowest point of the slide. Is there an adjustment to be made? I have owned this coach for 5 months. Used it heavily with the slides being exercised almost every day. No issues until today. I did hear a sound today that made me stop and go outside to look. I still haven’t found anything at looks out of place and I haven’t found any foreign material that could cause a jam.

Hello Monaco Family! I have been on the road for about a month and I was ready to move and I saw my living room slide won’t fully retract. I have a 02 Windsor and tried to retract with 2 separate approaches: 1) With full air as per procedure 2) With HWH system showing the coach as level. Also, the bolts on the shaft aren’t broken and the motor seems fine. I have search the Forum for help and YouTube. Sorry to need to ask, but had anyone faced this? Thanks! Joe

LATE BREAKING NEWS! I was able to apply 12v power to the pedal assembly motor and it moves! So, I’m thinking the switch is bad. Am I correct is this thinking? If so, yay! I’m learning. If not, ugh. More education is needed….

Thanks Men for the detailed help! I know it takes your valuable time to share your knowledge with me and it is greatly appreciated! So, my mistake in testing yesterday was that I grounded my meter to the chassis. Meaning I didn’t use my meter to check for voltage between the blue and yellow wires. Now, I understand the reason for testing between the yellow and the blue. TomV - My State of Charge is a low. I have been disconnected from Shore Power for over a month and haven’t run my generator in 3 days. So, today, I’m rolling a 100 miles, so SOC should be good by then. Sorry for the lack of that detail. I’m learning what you guys need to help me. Thank you! Ivan/Tom - When I connected the test leads of my meter as shown below, I didn’t get voltage from either of the two positions of the switch. Next, I moved one test lead to ground to the chassis and 12v was shown for the one position of the switch. Does that lead you to think it is the switch I’m having issues with? Next, I will follow the motor test for the motor itself. But, I wanted to get this clarification of my mistake from yesterday and my latest test out to you to ensure I’m still going down the right road. And, yes. What a learning curve for me! I was a Corporate Guy behind a desk for most of my life. I wanted a change and a new challenge. Well, be careful what you wish for! I got both! The good news is that I’m to the point of working on things that aren’t keeping me from rolling. And, learning something new every day! Thanks Men!

Hey Guys - Here’s where I’m at. In the picture below, you will see the disconnected wiring for the motor that drives the pedal assembly. I have 12v to the blue wire when the toggle switch is pressed on the bottom part of the switch. I also have 12v to the yellow wire when the toggle switch is pressed on the top of the switch. Would you know if this is the correct power for each wire? Starting to sound like a motor to me. TomV48 - I can get the switch out by pulling it up and out if the panel. Not must extra wire to pull it out much. What would you recommend? Cleaning? Thoughts? Joe

GM! I have completed the following steps: 1) Tested 10amp fuse for continuity. Tested good. 2) Tested 10amp fuse position #31 for power. Tested at 11.9 volts. But, only with ignition on. See pics below. 3) Removed the switch and saw 11.92 v on 2 posts. With ignition on. So, it appears that I have power to the switch. Does anyone know if 11.92 v would provide adequate power for the motor in engage?

Tom - the initials on the brake pedal are ‘BW’. Thanks!

Thanks Tom! Better title!

Hello All - I have looked for this topic in the forums with no luck. So, I ask for your assistance once again! I’m rolling in a 2002 Windsor with a Cummins ISC. Today, I’m trying to get my pedals adjusted. Attached is a picture of the Switch and pedals. I’m curious if anyone has been able to repair this assembly when it stops moving. My captains seats have been replaced. Sharing that in case that is a clue for someone. All ideas are greatly appreciated! Joe

Hi Jim - thanks for the tips. Yes, I do believe the old screw is broken off in the frame. I will keep trying!

Hello All! Today, I’m replacing the screws that attach the bay doors on my 2002 Windsor. Seems it would be easy … drill a hole into the frame using a drill bit for hardened steel… right? I’m having no luck at all. Has anyone replaced these screws and if so, what did you do? Thanks!

Great! I was hoping for an answer like that! I did see the sliding mechanism but it didn’t seem to want to release anything. I will get back on it. Thanks Richard! My thanks to everyone! Richard’s suggestion of an O-Ring was the fix. Now, it’s time for a trip to Lowe’s to get the silicone grease that Stephen recommended. One more project behind me!

Great! I was hoping for an answer like that! I did see the sliding mechanism but it didn’t seem to want to release anything. I will get back on it. Thanks Richard!

Hello All - I discovered a leak on my RV Aquajet II 5.3 GPM fresh water pump. Please see the attached picture and my screwdriver is pointing to the joint that is leaking. I can’t find any repair kits/instructions on-line. Does anyone know if this can be repaired? Thanks! Joe

Thanks for sharing this video and for your time to post it!

Hi Again! Questions for the group. I have located the Enertech 4470-30 buzzer. I disconnected it. I tested it using the instructions sent by Jerome. (Thank You!) The instructions led me to add ground to the White wire and the buzzer should sound. Well, no buzzer with power to Red, ground to Black. Then, added ground to each White. Still no buzzer. But, when I applied ground to the Grey wire, (gray wire not noted in the instructions) I heard the buzzer sound. So, question #1: Would you think the buzzer is good? Question #2: What problems do you think I will have if I don’t reconnect the buzzer? Right now, it’s alarming all the time, so it’s not telling me anything. I know at I won’t get an alarm for low air/parking brake. Would there be any additional problems if I don’t reconnect it? Thanks for any replies! Joe

Thanks everyone! I have more work to do…. I appreciate the help!

Hey Scotty - sadly, I don’t have hydraulic jacks. Just the HWH Leveling System. I miss jacks. Bill - I just double checked the dash light. It goes out when I release the Parking Brake as it should. Ivan - If you are reading along, I did test for continuity between the black and red wires at the low pressure switch and I had continuity. So, you think my switch is good? Since I have continuity, what tracing should I do with the Red wire?

Hello All - I’m still getting to know my ‘new to me’ 2002 Windsor. I’m planning a short shake down trip next week and I have a question. I have a Warning Alarm (fast pulsing tone) when I shift into Drive or Reverse. I have been reading many of the posts from what I think are similar problems. But, before I start throwing parts at my new coach, I wanted your option on what I should do next. From reading the other posts, I’m thinking my problem may be the Low Pressure Switch (Nason SM-1C-66R/WP28). Attached is a picture of the switch still attached to my Air Brake Release knob. As I don’t really know this Coach yet, I would like your option. I have seen many comments about the alarm/buzzer going off after 5-10 miles, but I couldn’t figure out why the alarm goes silent. My coach builds pressure up to 120 psi well and holds pressure. I have been doing all my testing at a Campground and haven’t taken it out again since I bought the Coach in January. Perhaps this alarm is something else. Please let me know if you think I should replace the Low Pressure Switch as the next appropriate step. Also, please let me know if you have a suggestion on the best place to buy the switch. Thanks!! Joe

Thanks Guys! The Salesman switch is on. Rats. Would have been great to have an easy fix! I’m still staring at the panels. My staring doesn’t seem to be making any difference!! Ivan - what instrument on the gauge cluster do you think it could have been connected to? I can’t see anything missing or not working on the gauge cluster.

So, this was a HUGE learning event for me. I didn’t have Actual Cash Value. I do now! My old Rig was a ‘96 Crown Royale Signature. It had all kinds of issues. So, hoping that the time in my Windsor will be a bit easier! Today, I discovered that my Auto Transfer Switch was recalled by the NHTSA years ago. Guess it’s always something! And, I learned about it from reading on this Forum! So, my thanks to everyone! As for the insurance settlement, I was with and I’m still with Progressive. My adjuster, Luke from SC, was outstanding! My main problem was at the time of my policy being written. I didn’t know about or get Actual Cash Value. My Progressive Adjuster schooled me on that. Bottom Line, I lost all the value of the many improvements that I did to my Rig. Probably about $20,000. The good news is no one was hurt. Bill - your question about the tow charges and my settlement: I got the full amount that the policy was written for. The tow expenses were not deducted from the value of my Rig as written in the policy. The accident was my fault, so Progressive paid all the expenses. I can’t believe I let this happen. Traffic slowed and a box truck was in front of me, so I didn’t have any view but the back of that truck. I lost my braking distance when traffic slowed, Then, the box truck slammed on it’s brakes. I had a bit of time before impact, but I knew I was going to hit the truck. There was no where to go, since a construction wall was blocking the emergency lane on the interstate I was on. I should have come to a complete stop and recovered my braking distance after the initial slow down. It will not happen again!!

Thanks everyone! I found the fuse for my rig and it was #31. It was good. I also changed out the rocker switch with another switch that matched it. No luck. Any other ideas are welcomed!