Analyte

I don't have an answer for you, but I've been looking at a similar situation. No water in my holding tank, and the pump keeps coming on by itself. No leaks found so I pulled the fuse to avoid burning up the pump. No idea why it started doing that.

Not sure about your specific model, but the back of the water heater is usually very accessible. You should have room to swap the valve without pulling it.

Just gave a good sized dish or two to catch any water in the lines.

You guys have a point, I do my own inspections. My tires are still young, but I do take a look at the exterior of them before each long drive. Once they hit 5 years, I'll probably have them removed and inspect myself for peace of mind.

No way would I trust someone else, many tire guys will probably just want to sell you another set. I'll look for age/heat cracks or other potential damage myself.

3 minutes ago, vito.a said:

I'd go to 2027 and have them inspected.  

I second this, and just replace if necessary. It looking ok in 2027, keep running them and then inspect again the following years up to 7.

When my inlet seal was leaking, I just went to Lowe's and bought a new valve. Swapped it out easily, just getting the wrenches back there to loosen/tighten was troublesome.

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

The part that I linked also includes the mounting bushings.  The mounting bushings were wore out on the motor I pulled out which allowed the motor to squat and as a result allowed the fan to hit sheet metal making noise at start up. 

Surprisingly, the bushings looked great on the motor. No doubt they have been swapped before.

If I was home or close to home with all my stuff an A/C replacement might be considered more heavily, but with me out working in CA I don't want to have to pay someone to do it. The campgrounds will let me get away with swapping a motor, plus I enjoy doing things myself.

Thanks for the file and the help!

2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

This is what I bought in 2014 when my front fan motor failed (essentially seized up).  My AC was a Dometic 13.5K BTU

https://www.adventurerv.net/dometic-penguin-motor-kit-with-cap-bracket-p-21975.html

They do have the Dometic PN listed and if you search using that you get lots of hits. 

 

The Dometic part number for the AC unit itself? I was using the AO Smith number but I'll give that a shot. Thanks 

I've been looking at fan motors on and off today, and it seems AO Smith was bought/merged out by Century.

They don't have my exact motor, F42C02A61, but according to the part # it seems to point to the ORV4540 as the replacement. The specs are close except my original motor is 3.3 amps and the 4540 is only 2.5 amps plus the original is 1/4hp whereas the replacement 4540 is 1/5hp. The mounting also appears slightly different, but probably easily modified.

I'm thinking this isn't a great replacement as it's less power and amps so it will likely move less air overall even with the same 1650rpm max? I'm not finding a century with the exact spec's so I guess this 4540 is the closest replacement rather than the exact replacement.

Anyone know of other options available? Thanks!

Well, as luck would have it the fan quit working at all this weekend. I had read the guide and planned to take some readings, but I had it on so I could make my way up to the roof and it just quit.

The wife turned it off, and I was still able to spin the motor by hand. She turned it on, and the motor just hums. I tried to help it out spinning it by hand, but it doesn't help.

So armed with the AO Smith model number, I'm going to do some searching tomorrow to see what's out there to swap in.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Reading all your posts, then there may be a problem in the Control Module.  You do NOT have the Intellitec EMS so it is NOT a load shedding issue.  The HVAC Control modules are pretty robust....but even Superman wimps out from time to time when he is exposed to Krytonite.  BAD ANALOGY.  SO...if you have the SAME tonnage or K BTU units in the front and back, then do one of two things.  Swap the motors or swap the Control Units.  

NOW, I just found something that may be helpful.  This is a trouble shooting guide dated 2002.  I had it for my Camelot...which is an 2009.  If you read it, there is a section for MOTOR.  There is a 6 pin plug for the motor.  WOW...how about that.  You should check.  The guide says there SHOULD BE CONTINUTITY between all windings and WHITE.  Never knew that.  Start from the front and work your way back to the end.  If there are more sections on the motor.  BUT, if you have the infamous 6 pin harness....then follow directions.  You MAY have a shorted out or open circuit in the winding for AUTO....whatever speed that is.  Maybe it is variable as some Air Handlers for heat pumps have variable speed motors.  In the HP mode, you want a really LOW air flow.  Kick up the RPM or the CFM and the air feels COOL...so the HP have a lower CFM.  BUT, when you want cooling, that motor will be in TURBO as the faster the air flow...the cooler it feels.

OK....just did some MORE reading.  There is a specific circuit layout for the 6 Pin connector.  That should help.

It MIGHT be interesting...if you could measure WHICH pins on the 6 pin harness from the control module have AC on Low and High.  THEN which Pins have voltage for Auto.  Do that on the one that is working.  THEN compare to the front.  I'm of the opinion you MAY have a shorted motor....and the Auto winding(s) are shot.

BUT, you never know....

Good Luck.

ccc5 Trouble Shooting.pdf 672.56 kB · 2 downloads

Tom,

Thanks for the guide, I really appreciate it. I'll take a look at it and see about comparing measurements between my two units.

I hadn't thought about a winding failure, but when I think about it that does sound plausible.

20 minutes ago, Bill R said:

@Analyte you might want to make sure you have the correct size run capacitor.  You can check by looking at the nameplates of the fan and compressor for the capacitance rating.   If the run capacitor is under sized it can cause issues.  Also if you have a VOM with capacitance capability you can test the capacitors.  They just need to be complete disconnected when you do.  

The capacitors are the correct size. I had pulled the originals to see what was needed, and then bought replacements that matched up. Both new and old capacitors checked out ok, I had a guy at work check them both when the new parts were doing the same thing 

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Do you have a load meter showing amps, you might have it you have an Intellitec EMS display.  You would have to run the generator and/or be plugged into a 30 amp circuit for it to display.  Turn your AC on and watch the amps, you should see a spike but not that much.

When I was having trouble with my front AC back in 2015 it was occasionally kicking the breaker so I started watching the amps.  At startup was spiking really high amps, +50 amps,  so I went on the roof and spun the motor, that is I tried, it was almost froze up, I could barely turn it by hand.  So I ordered a new one and replaced, I did notice the old one was letting the fan hit sheet metal.  I found that there were rubber isolation mounts for the motor that were wore out.  The new motor came with new mounts so it solved both problems.  

Fast forward to 2021 my wife took the rig to a dog show and commented the rear AC was making loud noise but would eventually settle down.  So when se got back I checked the rubber isolation mounts were wore like the previous one, the motor was a little tight but not froze up but I decided to replace while I was into it BUT I could not find a replacement motor anywhere. 

Earlier in the year I had been on a trip in +100F temps, the AC were working but struggling to keep up, 13.5K BTU units.

So I just bit the bullet and replaced both AC's then.  ~$3K but I wanted to be confident I had good AC.   Installed 15K BTU units front and back.  Now 1 AC can easily keep up in temps approaching 90F. 

 

I did look at amps in my early diagnosis. No big swings when running so I didn't go in that direction further. The breaker has never been kicked so that also led to me to think it was trying to pull more juice that should be needed.

Ok, I'm back on this again.

I didn't find an issue with either the run or start capacitors as both have been swapped out with no change. All tested ok in the end so I'm comfortable that it's not a capacitor issue.

The unit will try to spin up the fan, and then stop and hum. If you spin the fan manually it will take off and run no problem. Ever so often, when the unit is turned on the fan will spin up slowly and then take off on its own. Once running it will run forever if set to high without an issue other than it's a little noisy.

The unit cools beautifully, and I did notice some slack in the shaft so it's slightly brushing the ducting when running. That's likely where some of the noise is coming from. The fan does spin freely when off so it doesn't appear to have a bearing dragging 

I'm thinking the fan motor needs replaced since that's all that's left, but I'm looking for a test to confirm. Everything online pointed to capacitors, but that didn't work out for me.

Thoughts?

22 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

Have you tried resetting your thermostat? With the thermostat in off push and hold the top and bottom buttons at the same time for a few seconds. You should get an F1 on the screen. I think. 

No I haven't tried that yet. I've give it a shot as the only thing I can think of otherwise is my fan motor is trying to pull more juice than it should?)

I have a 2000 Dynasty, and I've been having a weird AC issue when starting up.

The issue started when I heard it humming one night so I turned the thermostat off. Later I went to troubleshoot it, and it seemed to be cycling like normal. No issue at all with the compressor as it still cools beautifully.

I've found the fan works if on Low or High speed, but if it tries to start up on auto it will just hum. I swapped out both the run and start capacitors, but it's doing the same thing. The fan motor spins freely, and it's not hot when I check it. 

Ideas? Thanks

Typically just cycling the key multiple times to get the pump to prime will purge the air. When I change mine I usually prefill the primary, even though many say not to, just to speed up the process 

1 hour ago, StephenW said:

I checked the 12 volt fuse panel for the house circuits and noticed the top line states it is for the 2000 & 2001 Dynasty.  

I hope this pic helps.

Thank you! I'll do some testing tonight, but this will help a ton!!

2 hours ago, Fasthobie16 said:

I have a 2000 Dynasty 40’coach. I’m assuming you’re referring to the two 120vac panels located in the rear of coach over the bed. I could take a pic but I have moved some of the wires to different positions and re-labeled. So that wouldn’t help you much. I would suggest that you turn off ALL the breakers in  both panels. Then turn one on and see what is energized. Then label it. Continue on to another and label until you have completed all the breakers. Takes time but at least you will know what is what. 

Not the breaker panels, but the fuse panel that's in my most rear corner cabinet. It's full of automotive fuses, 5A, 10A, 15A, etc.

On my 2000 Dynasty, the house fuse panel no longer has the fuse layout label on the outside of the cover. The owners manual doesn't provide a diagram either.

Will someone with a similar Coach provide a picture of the fuse layout so I know what does what.

My tank monitoring panel started showing all tanks were full last night, even though I know they're not. I want to pull the panel to check the common ground and other wiring behind it, but I want to pull the fuse first so the panel is safe to remove.

Thanks!

When I was looking a couple years back, I was disappointed in the newer coaches relative to their cost. Poor quality control and the materials were just awful.

When I got serious about an older Monaco, I purposely looked for a early 2000s without the multiplex and aqua hot. I didnt need/want that fancy stuff, plus less complexity to deal with when upgrading or making repairs. Been very pleased with my Dynasty, and I get compliments from others at the RV park wishing they had kept their old MH rather than trading in on a new one.

Just wanted to provide an update 

I received a reply from my request today asking for the paint codes used on my coach. I'm not sure why they were able to provide them by email and not by phone, but nonetheless I got what I needed.

I'll reach out to a jobber tomorrow in order to get a pint sample of each color so that I may check the color match. I have no doubt that some tinting will be required, but I do it all the time at work so that won't be a big deal since I have the base color to start from.

Thanks again for all the help and advising me to make the request by email.

Kerry

3 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

So for me when the back of my coach was repaired🤦‍♂️the shop doing the work removed the water heater cover and had it sent out for a paint match. When it was all done i could see NO difference with the work they had done… Workmanship yes, color match NO.

That's a great looking coach!

Unfortunately, it seems my water heater was replaced at some point and it has a plain white cover on it rather than the original color matched. Respraying it correctly is on my to do list to remove it as an eyesore.

1 minute ago, jacwjames said:

Here's a link to the Monaco contact page

https://www.monacocoach.com/contact-us/

I sent in a request years ago and they sent me the color code for my coach as a previous poster suggested.

Thanks, I'll send the request since before when I called I got nothing. Thanks!

Sorry, I checked and its the Classic color palette for 2000.

Here is a pick of the coach.

8 minutes ago, Oregon04Windsor said:

I was able to get my color codes from REV group just a couple weeks ago and take it to a local supplier and had paint mixed.

Really? Well, I'll give them another call as I was told they didn't have the codes for the older Monaco coaches.

2000 Dynasty Regeant and it has the Ralph Lauren Country color palette.

I need to repair some clear coat flaking which will require sanding the basecoat. Therefore, I need to get it matched so the color is closer than the standard color mix. I have a Ralph Lauren Country edition and the codes are nowhere to be found even if I wanted the factory mix 

My two fuel doors, that are plastic lids, are sprayed the two colors I need to match. I looked at them today, and like the side doors the housings are held in with several rivets each. Is it possible to remove the doors in some way without pulling the rivets? It looks like I could pry the door itself to release it from the housing, but I have no way of knowing how long the tips go into the housing and I don't want to break it.

Its not possible to drive to a jobber either. I've checked and none of them nearby are on a street or have a lot to which I could get in there.