Analyte

On 12/5/2021 at 6:20 AM, OhReally said:

And oh, by the way, some skylights are doubled up with a small gap between them for thermal purposes. Are you sure you didn't remove the inside skylight?

-Jamie

No, it was the inner. It still had a bit of the curve on the outer edge and the lip around the outer roof left no question.

9 minutes ago, Bjohnsonmn said:

Where did you get your skylight from?

Ordered via Amazon from ICON 

The issue wasn't the switches on the lights themselves, they were both on. On the wall behind the TV was the missing switch to turn them on. Now with it found, they all work like they are supposed to.

There was even a hall light switch as well which is even better!

Thanks!!

Well, all the fuses were ok so I went back through the room again. I finally found the switch behind the upgraded larger flat screen TV. I missed it before, but all is good now!

31 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

I have that problem occasionally. I  have a switch in the bedroom & one up by the door.  If there not set in the right position it won't work.  Sometimes its taken 3 to 4 trips back and forth flipping the switches before getting it right.  The one over our table is the same way. I just changed out the switch before I found the one on the wall. 

I thought so too. Where is your switch in the bedroom? Maybe I have overlooked it 

2 minutes ago, Scott 61 said:

On my coach there is a switch inside the front door that says ceiling lights it turns on two lights so you don't have to walk into a dark coach

 

Correct, same for me. It's just the two lights over the bed don't come on. I have to believe there is a switch on a wall or cabinet to turn them on near the bed since it seems foolish to walk back to the front to turn them on/off.

2 minutes ago, vito.a said:

It should be inside.  Maybe bathroom cabinet or bedroom closet.  

Do you have an owners manual?

If not, you can download one on line.  They are very detailed.  

I'll look there this evening. Thanks.

I do have a manual for a 2001, but there are some differences. It doesn't mention interior switches beyond appliances much at all though so I wasn't sure.

Thanks again!

9 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Polycarbonate skylights require a special sealant or they will crack.  

You really need to remove all the Dicor.

The proper sealant is Surebond 140.  It does not contain petroleum distillates.  You can find it on Amazon.

I did use the correct ICON sealent for the skylight where it attaches to the roof after cleaning all the old off stuff. The dicor was only used on the outside lip which is what was recommended.

Never heard of the surround stuff or I didn't come across it when researching. Hmm...

10 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Almost all your lights are 12v.  Make sure the house batteries are charged and turned on. Then check fuses.  

Ok, all the other lights work except those two.

Where is the fuse panel for those lights? Is it outside or inside? Or is the fuse on the light fixture itself?

Thanks!

Kerry

The lights directly over the bed don't come on with the switch at the front door of the coach nor with the switches on the lights themselves. No breaker is thrown so I must be missing a switch somewhere. I've looked, but I haven't seen a switch on the cabinets or walls around the bed. 

The lights did work for the inspector and I have a picture showing them on, but I've not been able to turn them on myself. I haven't reached out to him hoping he remembers, but I figured someone here might be able to direct me to a switch so I don't come across as clueless.

Thanks,

Well, I replaced the skylight earlier this week and it was actually a fairly straightforward job. I did uncover shoddy work by a previous person, but I don't blame it on the older couple I bought it from as the gentleman didn't like heights so no work was done directly by him. My inspector did identify it as a problem, but we just thought the tape and sealer was old needing replaced.

I decided to replace the skylight with a smoked version to cut down on light entering the coach since the existing lens was old. I scrapped off the tape and existing sealer to uncover the screws, and things seemed old compared to the videos I watched online. The old skylight was tough to pull off due to excessive butyl sealant. Once it was out of the way, I realized why the skylight looked odd on the roof. The sealer and tape looked separated, but that wasn't the main issue. The skylight had been replaced previously, but whoever did the work didn't remove the prior skylight. It appears they cut the dome off the original skylight, and then just dumped a bucket of sealant on the old lip and screwed the then new skylight on top. That's why there was a huge gap. It's unbelievable that someone would do that rather than do the job correctly.

I removed the gallon of sealant and old flange, and the frame underneath was quite nice. I cleaned it well, and then installed the new smoked skylight correctly. Once done, I used Dycor lap sealant but it's didn't flow as well as expected. It moved a little, .5 inch or so, but it really didn't level out like the video's showed. It's sealed fine but I just don't like the lumpiness of it.

I also replaced the vent on the roof since the cap was cracked at the top. It was an easy repair by comparison.

I cleaned off the roof where it was dirty, but I'll need to plan another trip up there to give it a good soap washing so it's more presentable. No one will see it, but I'll feel better knowing it's clean and nice.

11 hours ago, Timaz996 said:

Attached is the instructions for bleeding the slide but it will show you how to adjust it.

Tim

HWH Living Room Slde Bleeding VIP!!!!.pdf 25.74 kB · 6 downloads

Thank you again sir!!

2 hours ago, Timaz996 said:

The one midway in the arm is the bolt you’ll adjust to move that end of the slide out or in. The one you were talking about with the Allen head will adjust the tilt of the slide, meaning bringing the top of the slide in or out.

Copy on the Allen head, it wasn't clear where he was adjusted but tilt isn't my issue.

I may need to spray those with some penetrating oil a day or so before I mess with them if typically tight.

How do I adjust the interior tighter to the wall? I guess loosen both nuts, but then what?

Tim, thanks for all the help with my million questions. Shocking I'm unable to find a service document online that spells out what to do.

Ok, I looked under the room and see the support arms. At the end there are nuts and bots I suspect for alignment, and then midway there is a window in the arm likely where the piston resides.

Anyone have a link to an HWH video I could use to determine how to move the front side of the room out further to compress the inner seal?

I found one thread where a guy explained you could back off a nut and use an allen wrench to move in/out, but I'm not seeing anything like that on the arms pictured.

3 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

The adjustment bolts are in the arms them self when you have the slide out you will see them

Ok, I'll take a look tomorrow during the day.

Thanks again!

19 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

I have the same coach. You have a hydraulic operated slide out by HWH there is adjustment bolts in each arm front and back if you need to move the front out further you should be able to adjust it with those bolts.

Thanks, I wasn't really sure what I had. Are the adjustment bolts accessible in the storage bays or some other way. The bottom of the slide is smooth so not sure where to start looking.

Thanks!!

Hello,

Looking at my LR slide, the front near the drivers seat doesn't fully compress the inner seal when extended like the rear section. I did some searches and found various threads regarding Lippert and HWH Slides.

Did Monaco use a specific type for all of the LR slides, or Is there an easy way to tell which type I have? I'm still new to this RV, and the data card doesn't specify which is on the coach.

Thanks,
Kerry