Analyte

It's not clear to me, no pun intended, as to what you want to do after removing the clear coat.

Looking at your pictures, you have delamination so the clear is pulling away. This is happening because the UV stabilizers in the clear are no longer doing their job, most likely because of other damage that went through the clear exposing the basecoat.

If you remove it, you will have to reapply clear as a protectant. I suggest sanding, and you will have to scuff the base as well to prepare it for new clear coat. With proper PPE, use a 2K for better protection. Just be aware you may have to spray new base as well if that layer is equally damaged.

Try starting with 400-500 grit to remove the old clear, go slow and let the paper do the work. You'll then have to work your way up to 600 grit as that will be a better surface to spray over. 

43 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Well those screws and fender washers along with the tape aren't doing too bad of a job!

The aluminum strip over top would be better, but.....

Agreed, but it's all about making it better than when new! It definitely shows someone has worked on it before, and they chose to patch it up rather than fix correctly.

Here is a picture of my seal. It's split in the middle of the seal, and then I have a chunk missing from the front side. 

Thanks again for the help!

1 hour ago, Happycarz said:

Kerry,

Could you post a picture of your slide seal. Or even a few pictures would be nice.  Monaco used so many different types of seals, it would be hard for us to offer suggestions with know what they used on your coach..  But, then again, maybe a 2000 Dynasty owner might chime in.

Sorry, been raining all day here so I wasn't able to snap any pictures. I will when possible, but it looks the same as what veraken posted without the alum support strip.

On 3/11/2023 at 5:50 AM, veraken said:

I recently replaced mine.  Here is where I got mine.   https://www.recpro.com/rv-slide-out-seal-3-inch-wiper-seal-with-adhesive/   I reinforced it with aluminum flat bar which I got at HD  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-x-96-in-Aluminum-Flat-Bar-with-1-8-in-T-802557/204276137.   Got this idea from Happycarz on IRV2.

 

Thank you, that's the same seal as mine. Great idea on the aluminum support so appreciate you sharing that idea as well!

Thanks for the link. It looks to be just a 3in wide seal that is held in by screws. I'll take good measurements this weekend and reach out to them. Appreciate it!

My seats could use some reconditioning, but I'm in to see photos as well from before and after. My color is Coffee I believe so I'll likely have to pay the custom fee.

Hello, the lower seal on my main room slide on my 2000 Dynasty got damaged as it came loose when the slide was going in or out.

Is there a specific seal needed for the Monaco models, or will just a generic seal work? It seems fairly simple to change so  just want to make sure I get the correct part so I don't have to do it twice.

Thanks,

Kerry 

Tom, thanks for the detail. For parts, i was referring to the connection end for the MH. With the Camco valve removed, the remaining threads are above the wet bay bottom edge of the cover. By extending it down an inch or two I'll be able to secure the hose while making it easy to remove/replace.

Thanks for the fast replies!

This is my first MH so I wasn't sure if pressure was low as it was normal. Now that I've found the problem, I have to fix it right.

Tom, it's funny you mentioned your daughter hating the shower as mine has had the same complaint.

I'll take a look at the Watts and the other linked option. I'll order one and pick up some parts to plumb it right.

Thanks again for the help!!

Well, as most here have experienced themselves I got a leak at the city water inlet valve on the 2000 Dynasty. I walked outside and was greeted to a lot of wet ground so it was easy to trace back, lol.

I pulled off the old inlet and the internal rubber check value was also bad. It was a Camco part number 40055 which a search online showed it was available almost anywhere. I stopped into Walmart to pick up a spare, but I'm looking for a better fix since I just believe that inlet valve kills volume at the expense of pressure. The pressure has never been great, and after looking at the old valve there are 4 slots around the metal center square where water gets by. I decided to run a trial.

The parks water pressure is at 60psi so its right around the max based on my research. I took the old Camco part and drilled a 1/4 hole through the center. I reinstalled it, though leaking, and when I checked inside the volume was much better while pressure using a sprayer was much better. No doubt the leak was hurting pressure, but the increase in volume was impressive.

I then removed the old and installed the new Camco 40055 out of box, and the volume took a hit as well as pressure. I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. 

I'm thinking I should just buy some open brass connections to connect the hose and remove the 40055 entirely. Then just run a pressure regulator at the site  tap adjusted to 55psi. I believe that will provide better volume while still controlling pressure from getting to high.

Tell me if I'm nuts, but the 40055 seems to limit volume more than necessary unless I'm missing something. I don't want to flood the Dynasty but I want more water volume.

My 2000 Dynasty was replaced for cracks on both the inner and outer. Only the outer was replaced and the inner was removed due to no part available. Works fine and there has been no issue.

In Dublin, CA this morning I saw one station at 5.69 while the rest were all 5.99 for diesel. All have jumped over a dollar a gallon in the past couple if weeks...

Thanks for all the ideas. I'm looking to pull my second couch on the slide side and use my 60in Plasma. I've looked at lifts, tv stand, and cabinets with no luck finding exactly what I want. I'm trying to avoid building something from scratch, but that is an options worst case.

Kerry

2 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

I’d say dyed. It looks smooth?

Anyway if you at all think it’s tanned (older Ford King ranch leather trucks) then Rawlings glove oil will restore deep, dark, softness back to the leather. I have done many seats with it. 
 

if it’s dyed, and you want to Match color, the above kits work well. A good cleaner is needed to get the grime off. I painted my in-laws black leather couches 3-4 times. They lasted 20 years before I finally gave them our sectional when we moved. They were to cheap to buy new furniture. 
 

 

It is smooth, the King Ranch example helped...lol

I'll look closely at the kits and see which color might match up the best. 

Thanks!

Wow, that looks really good! I'll check them out, thanks!!

Good question, but I'm guessing tanned? Here's a pic if you can tell by looking...

In my 2000 Dynasty, I have the coffee colored J-couch that I typically sit on all the time. It's quite comfortable, and I have no doubt the previous owners enjoyed it as well.

That said, the couch does have some wear and does show it's age in places. There is no cracking or splits coming on old leather so I was doing some research to see if any treatments could bring some life back to it. In my search, I found a lot of RV folks on a specific forum were praising a product called RubNRestore. I had never heard of it so I was hoping someone on this site could provide feedback on it or another product that could work. 

The RubNRestore appears to sell colors so as to match up the product as close as possible with the color of the furniture so it appears the product is basically a dye. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Kerry

13 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

Let us know how it goes when you get it done.

 

Tim

Will do!

16 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

Yes this is the nut. Brake it loose and adjust the allen screw about three turns in with the slide pulled in a couple inches then put it out all of the way. If I remember correctly the adjustment is opposite of what I thought it would be. 

Got it, thank you so much. I didn't think about need to bring the slide in a bit to take the pressure off so thanks for that tip as well!

5 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

I don't see a picture with a circle. It's the only nut on the bottom of the arm out on the end. It has dirty oil on it.

Here it is, forgot to attach it...

2 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

Your very first picture shows a large nut on the bottom of the arm. That is the lock nut for the allen head screw, Brake that nut loose and adjust it.

Is the circled area the nut you're referring to? It's raining outside at the moment so I can't go look.

And tighten it to bring the interior side closer to the interior wall?

40 minutes ago, Timaz996 said:

That will be the tilt adjustment with the allen head screw. I think you tighten it to bring the top out against the seal.

Tim 

Where are these Allen head screws located? Thanks!

Ok, with the help of the attachment above I'm now comfortable that the slide is adjusted out correctly.

That said, I now need to tilt the inside room upper about 3/4 inch closer to the wall to better seal the top gasket. I've been searching for similar HWH documents, but I haven't found anything yet. I did find a post about someone adjusting the tilt via an access panel under the kitchen faucet, but I looked at mine and it doesn't appear my cabinet floor is removable unless I'm missing something.

I did check the shoes under the cabinets and it doesn't appear those are an issue. Any thoughts on what I need to do?

Thanks.

6 hours ago, Grampy OG said:

Mine is positively awful on '03 coach. Your clean job has inspired me. I'm with Brad, where did you get it and how did you measure?

Thanks

Ken

 

Thanks for the compliment 

I bought the skylight from ICON, and I used their measurement table to determine which one to buy.

I checked this measurement:

40 minutes ago, Bjohnsonmn said:

Thanks! When you sized it, did you measure the outside dimensions of the flange, or the bubble part.

I measured both the dome and outer flange just to verify the new one was the proper size all around.