BradHend

Quickserve is saying your engines original belt tensioner is part# 3976831, however it is showing the latest active supersession as part# 5259022. 
Also, the original idler pulley according to Cummins is part# 3970945, which is still active and available. 

Here is the build data for that engine too:

Serpentine belt part number for your engine is 3972375 and appears to be in stock. 

Send me your ESN, I’d be more than happy to add it in my Quickserve account to get you a part number. 
I have nothing but good good luck getting proper parts or the latest supercession. 

🤤 

Well in that case, if you can indeed get those bolts out, I’d try it.  It will be tight though. Taper fit and really no way of getting much wiggle.  
when I was trying to separate my two piece, I fashioned up a slide hammer of sorts which eventually did work.  Huge PITA mind you.  Not a lot of room in there.  

Looked at your manifold specs, I’d say no.  
If you’re able to get the bolts out of 5 & 6, it’s quite possible to remove that piece without too much trouble if things are in okay condition.  Biggest challenge might actually be getting the manifold off the other section without damaging anything and without loosening the other bolts, then at that point you might as well replace all the gaskets. 

Looking more it appears there are manifolds on the ISM with a single manifold for 1&6 that connect to a four port manifold for 2345.  Is that what your setup is?

I now shutter at the thought of exhaust manifolds and consequential damage on my rig.  Done that tap dance the hard way, hope to never have to do it again. 😂

Very nice sir.  
If this was two years ago I might have had to stop out for a visit to check it out. 
Best of luck with the sale!!

Is it a very fast chatter noise?

Not being rude, but what’s the point of calling Coachnet in when you have clearly found the source of the oil leak?

Don’t need the hose, but looks like you have a nice setup there sir.   👍

How was that to wire up into the steering column and back to the switches?

What exactly does ‘all the lights’ consist of?

14 minutes ago, Donflem said:

Wow really? I was thinking of eBay but a little scared of used. I already bit the  bullet and ordered everything. 🥵🤯$2200. I’m going to have a Mudflap made that says MONEY PIT!!!!

Can you get two made? (Mudflaps). 🤑

- Click the three lines, top right. 
- Click browse in the menu that comes up. 
- Click downloads in the next menu that comes up. 
- This will bring you to the ‘Downloads’ page.  
- Click the ‘Category:  All’ button and select ‘Electrical Systems’. 
- This will bring you to the Electrical Systems’ page. 
- Click the ‘Sub-Category’ button and select ‘Wiring Diagrams’. 
- You are know able to find and select the wiring diagram you are looking for.  

 

Get a stone and clean the commutator best you can.  Get new brushes, seat them and put it back together, load test it.  Call it good.  Check brush wear pattern after. 
That one brush is pretty worn out for being replaced all at the same time.  Might be worth throwing an amp meter on each of the mains during a normal day and see if you can balance the system out a bit by moving breakers around.  That is if they were replaced in sets though.

The one you found on Amazon is not compatible.  
This one is however:

https://www.flightsystems.com/56-5961-00

Check your brushes and slip rings too.  

I also noticed you said you changed your commutator brushes.  Have a look to make sure they are making full contact with the comm and that the comm is in relatively good condition.  Check slip rings too.  Commutator should be a light chocolate brown color and not pitted or burned. There should not be any heavy sparking where the brush and commutator touch when it’s running. a little under heavy load is normal and unavoidable really. 
On the old motor/generator sets on elevators brush/commutator maintenance is extremely important. Lots of erratic behavior can happen pretty quick if those two items are overlooked.  
I’ve also found that new brushes either have no contour, or are not the correct contour, hence the importance of ensuring new brushes are seated properly.

Does that make sense in your situation?
I would definitely shed some load and see if that stops the shut down.  
Otherwise could be a host of issues from minor to major unfortunately. 
Id be starting with the load shedding, taking some voltage measurements, checking every connection you can (while powered down), including the twist-locks. 
 

Press the stop button when the three flashes are on so it will flash the two digit error code and confirm your findings with the coolant. 

Let us know what the second level fault code is.  It’s only two digits. 

It’s up there.   Same boat as you, I just haven’t been able to access it without dropping the tank.  Terrible location. 
Contemplated cutting in an access hole at one point.  😂

Beauty coach sir.   Best of luck with the sale!

Very nice and good luck with the sale!  👍

When you upgraded the coach lights to LED, did you have to switch around the wiring to make them work? I did.  
Have you taken any measures with a volt meter at your trailer plug?

What I’m getting at is you might have your ground/light wires backwards as a result…polarity sensitive. 
 

Re-read your reply….missed that coach was still incandescent.  
Have you bench tested that strip light? If it’s a cheap Amazon one, they do some weird things and some you need that special adapter for signal/brake lights. 

Still curious what voltage readings you get at trailer plug for brake/signal/running. 

Did you change over to LED?

Disregard the Onan stuff.  Just Cummins.