BradHend

I installed all 4 Koni shocks in my driveway.  As @Ray Davis said, attach the top first and compress to get the bottom to fit.  Not a bad job at all. Hardest part was actually getting the rubber bushing freed from the bolt.  Took some heat to get them free. 😉

Even the main cruise switch won’t kill your cruise? 

54 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

Won’t the plastic ties melt?

Perhaps, there were originally zip ties holding other things along coolant lines prior and they held up.  If they fail I will use stainless zip ties or a band clamp maybe.  Main thing was to reduce damage to the fitting. 

The engine lifting hook is there. The original hose was almost wore right through from rubbing on it. I just doubled it up with a leftover piece for extra protection. 

@Agpopp Repairs are complete now.  New manifold, reman Holset VGT turbo, reman EGR valve and all new oil and coolant lines to  the turbo.  New rad hoses all around including the back to back metal 90 degree piece that I had made.  
Everything else I broke in the process as well (oil pressure sending unit, the 2 black metal coolant lines that feed the EGR cooler, the pipe that mates the EGR valve to the EGR cooler etc. etc.)

Did it all in my driveway.  Huge pain but I got it done. Learned a lot and did lots of reading. Made a few mistakes along the way, but realized them and corrected.  
I think it was 7 of the 12 manifold bolts had snapped on removal, 3 of which I was able to weld a nut on and turn them out, the rest unfortunately I drilled out. I ended up helicoiling 4 holes, 2 needed it and 2 I had to as the threads were stripped.  
Used RemFlex gaskets at the manifold and turbo connections.  Replaced all the banjo bolts, sealing washers and V-band clamps on that side of the engine.  Replaced all the Breeze spring loaded clamps for all the CAC lines. 
The few test drives I’ve done appear to be a success.  No more smoke, exhaust brake is nice and strong, lots of power on acceleration and it’s generating about 29lbs of boost with the hammer down and climbing small hills is not an issue anymore.  
Taking it up Tobermory way this weekend, hope all goes well.  
Thanks for your interest! 

I was getting the coach ready to take the wife and kids for a test drive following some substantial exhaust/turbo repairs and it was quite hot inside so I decided to cool it down with the rooftop units since my dash A/C is out.  
The generator fired right up, blew a bit of white smoke for 10 seconds as usual and I heard the transfer relay kick in but no A/C units started up and I had them set to cool and the temperature was set quite low on them.
I checked the status of the Intellitec remote display and it was completely dead.  Panick started to set in. 
I opened the front to check the generator breakers, both were on.  Checked for power at the transfer switch, 120V on both legs.  
Now I’m inside the coach sweating with both panels off checking everything over.  I had the 12V on pin 2 when running on generator, no obvious fried board sections anywhere, everything seemed to be checking out and I was almost ready to admit defeat as I was googling M&M Electronics when I thought it was getting too dark inside to see properly. 
Turn the lights on, nothing.  More panick set in.    
That’s when it dawned on me. 
Stupid me had the salesman switch off.  Turned it on and the A/Cs started right up as did the lights.   
Feel like a dummy, but sometimes it’s the simplest things that get overlooked.  
I thought I was in for more repairs.   😅

Thanks for reading, hope you got a laugh at my expense. 

@96 EVO I would agree.  I don’t believe it’s the relief valve at the tank at fault as you can hear the compressor working harder and the lines really vibrate when it happens.  
Just wasn’t sure if a check valve would cause any of this.  
Monaco doesn’t even put an air gauge on the dash.  Just a low air light.  
I will check the pressure in the tank when this is happening just to confirm. 
Only reason I went with a basic coach like this is so anyone can drive it need be.   No license upgrades needed. And it will fit at all national/provincial/state parks. 

Quite sure.  No rear air tanks either.  Just one tank up front. 

Thanks for the input folks.  
Could a faulty check valve be causing my compressor to continue supplying air to the rig? I did a few full air downs and the compressor stopped supplying air when it should so I thought it was perhaps okay and was a result of sitting too long.  Took it for a ride and stopped at a parking lot to check everything out.  I noticed the air compressor was on again with the relief valve releasing air at the tank, did a quick step on the accelerator up to about 1200 RPM and it quit supplying air as it should.  This rig, as @Robert92867 mentioned has hydraulic brakes, so there is no air dryer and no purge noise. 

Does anyone know what these two devices do? They are monitoring the air system for something, just curious what exactly for.  

Also, does anyone have a picture of their air pressure regulator for a similar coach? Mine won’t shut off now, not exactly sure what it looks like.  Thanks. 

 

Does this coach have full air brakes, or is it just air parking brakes like my Cayman? 

Ignition interlock as @walker mentioned, however nothing happens, or is there at least a click or a hum of some sort? Lights dim at all when you attempt to extend them? Salesman switch?

@JESPHDUSA
If you goto an elevator equipment supplier in your area you could purchase a length of traveling cable.   It is the power cord that runs with the elevator and supplies 120VAC for the lighting/fans as well as all the control wiring.  The wires are all labeled, usually by numbers every few inches and depending on the manufacturer, color coded as well.  You can get all different variations of wiring available inside, but a common one has (48) #18AWG, (4) #14AWG, (6) twisted shielded pairs and an RG6. 
I can post a pic if you’d like to see what I’m talking about. 
 

Also, Brady just came out with a new Bluetooth label maker.   App based now so no bulky keyboard.  The vinyl labels are very durable and you can set the label style to the wire marker label which makes for a nice personalized label that is sized perfectly for the wire size you set. 

Quickserve is of no help?

Have you checked the voltages at your panel when running under generator power?

I once had a weak breaker at the generator that would intermittently drop about 30-40 volts on the one phase due to internal corrosion which would then cause my A/C breaker to trip once in a while.  Voltage goes down, current goes up. 
The detection circuit in the ATS didn’t notice because it was monitoring the other phase which was unaffected.  

If intermittent and one A/C stayed running, the in-rush starting currents of the other may have been too much.  
In my case, new breaker resulted in full voltage with no more problems.  

Did you close the drain after

I just mean if your dash guage is only reading 70PSI, that’s too low to release your parking brake is it not?  Does the guage drop with engine off but in run position?

🤨 I would assume then that you cannot release your brakes?

If you shut the engine off do you hear air escaping anywhere?

No. It has a safety seal built in.  The only air that will be released is the air from the hose you used when you disconnect it. 
Mis-read your question…yes. You will lose air.  No big deal. Change it out and air back up.   Make sure you use thread tape.  
Spray your air tank drain valves with some penetrating oil (I think they need it) and drain the system that way if you need to.  Otherwise just slowly unturn the connector until air starts to leak out and continue when it stops.

Everything I run in my shop and the convenience inflator outlet on the motorhome are the industrial Type D.  
This is easily identified by the “V” form on the male connector. 
If the store you goto has the color coding system of blue or red or green, the one you want is red - Type D or industrial

Same. Front-most driver side bay.  If you have  one in the generator compartment, it is not a convenience air outlet. 

I would be careful about using products that don’t bear the logo from a known standards organization.  They may seem like a good idea or product, but they usually aren’t reliable if they haven’t been tested properly or are being used for purposes not intended.  
Even then, you need to be sure that the application is suited for the product.  
 

I’ve reached out to a few companies that specialize in ECM repair, they are looking to see if they have a connector with the wire whips ready to splice.   
I was also able to find this.  I think it would relate to your engine and ECM, appears to be the same plug on the last page, hopefully it’s of use. 
 

Detroit.pdf

Max boost on my Cayman with the 5.9 ISB and VGT turbo was always in the 25-30 PSI range.   Bluefire gauge and instrument cluster  guage were same, so I assume it’s correct. 

Reach out to Visone RV.  They will personally take a look and get back to you.  They may be willing to sacrifice it.