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Posts posted by BradHend
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@Georgia Mike I’m now curious about your engine coolant temperature. Yours actually never gets above 190?
That makes we wonder about mine now because it will start the cycle usually around 205 under normal steady driving, then cools back down until about 170-180, heats back up and repeat. Even on low grade hills it’s not uncommon for me to see 210-214. If I recall correctly the thermostat for my engine according to quick serve was for 190. Makes me wonder if I should be getting one that trips sooner.Basically anytime I’m pushin’ harder than normal I’ve got a pretty close eye on the Bluefire keeping an eye on the coolant temperature so I know if I should be letting off a bit or not. 😎
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Fire away, Carl. A lot of the components, features and wiring are similar or the same as other coach models.
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I figured as much and I am able to get them to seat together in the tongue and groove, but they just pop back out. Think it would be a bad idea to bond them together?
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New or Reman’d turbo? Those things aren’t cheap.
One of my biggest worries about my manifold job.
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I agree. I’d invest in a scan tool of some kind. I got a crappy one off Amazon for like 200 bucks, it’s helped me a few times. Just make sure it’s the “HD” version with the six and 9 pin adaptors.
Sorry to hear of the troubles. One more thing to worry about. Hopefully just a fluke for ya.As far as driving it…your call. Check it over, monitor all systems like a hawk. If it seems okay, 🤷♂️. Travel on.
Put it this way, unfortunately it’ll rear its head at some point regardless if it was something immediate to worry about. Make the best of it, just keep an eye and an ear open.- 1
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Well I’ll be. That’s great information Andrew.
Thanks for posting!!
Looks like those pipes have quite a few years left in them. Looks great.
I’ve been meaning to ask, does your exhaust manifold also have the large EGR port like mine does? Had a heck of a time digging anything up on it when I was trying to get one. Searched the world really. Nowhere to be had at the time.
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@bhawk44@bellsouth.net Just to the left of the restriction indicator in the OPs photo there is a small petcock valve.
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My Cayman has same setup. It’s for your cooling system.
It comes in quite handy when draining and filling the cooling system. Allows air in to help drain, while also allowing air out when filling.- 1
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It is stored indoors over winter but not heated. Possible water got in and froze.
The bulging material is still quite pliable and I am able to force it to sit tight into basically the tongue I guess of the mating seal, but it just pops right back out. Wasn’t sure if I could just do that with some kind of bonding agent and hold it in place. Something like that at least. -
18 minutes ago, TomV48 said:
Have you seen any sign of actual leaking YET?
No leaks so far anywhere on the windshield. 🤞
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Hoping someone might be able to offer me some advice and input on my windshield.
Part of the lower gasket has kind of bulged up and separated from the mating seal.
Based off of these pictures - while I highly doubt easy and cheap based on my experience elsewhere on the coach - this isn’t as simple as cleaning the area, applying a sealant and pressing it back together is it?Much appreciated. TIA.
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@1nolaguy I replaced all my exterior lights to LED on my ‘05 cayman last year. At first I was impressed when I fired them up around dusk to see how they looked and to make sure they worked properly, which they did look good (at dusk) and they did work just fine.
I do however feel that, other than the top marker lights, they just don’t cut it for visibility during the daytime hours, almost seem a touch less bright than the original incandescent. I’ve often thought about having the existing lights professionally filled in and installing those really nice round highly visible light bars on each side of the coach, kinda like this:New bulb holders and replacement OEM lenses and bases are extremely expensive, whereas something like in the picture are super cheap and super bright.
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If you get no other takers, count me in.
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I’m having that exact pipe made up in stainless as the original has developed a small, intermittent leak. Buddy with a metal shop is making and bending for me. I hope to have the old girl back up and running by the end of spring at the latest…but I’m now considering replacing my VGT while I’m doing all the other work the exhaust and coolant system.
As for that 90 degree hose and all the others I was planning on doing the same as you and sizing them up at a parts store.
Good luck. Post what you end up doing. I will do the same.- 1
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I’ll take it if it’s available still.
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I read and re read your post and I think I’m still confused.
The left gauge has both air tanks on the needle gauge (green and red) and the right gauge is the boost, which probably wasn’t moving because you were at idle.
Are you meaning the left side airbags filled up only and now the coach leans because the right side didn’t air up? -
35 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:
I married into a farming family, myself, I was in the trucking business, one thing I’ll share with you after cleaning radiators and after coolers on trucks and large farm equipment is use, compressed air first before you put the water to it, if you didn’t know!
Interested to hear more about your process. Thanks.
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If you go the cork route, you will for sure need a piece of wood, thin metal or something else to act as a runner for your slide rollers if you have that style.
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Do you have a third relay perhaps dedicated for the flashers like my Cayman does?
just went and confirmed mine. A relay for left turn signal, a relay for right turn signal, and a third relay, just above and behind the accelerator pedal that pulses with hazard lights on, which is in the picture.
My four way flashers do not operate if the brake pedal is depressed at all as well. -
My coach (and license) are only rated for like 25000 lbs, so ceramic will never be an option for me.
Our coach came with carpet, but the PO poorly installed vinyl plank flooring which was poorly glued down to to the existing subfloor. I will be redoing the whole rig at some point.
His workaround for the height difference at the main slide was to use 2 strips of the leftover plank positioned at the roller location whenever it was being retracted or extended. Seemed to do the trick, even those sacrificial pieces the roller moved along never had any damage or depressions on it, so I think even vinyl plank is up to the task.
Another option would be build the subfloor up until end result is flush with the existing areas and install a nice low profile transition strip.
Guess I should mention my slides are raised floor slides as well.There is some very nice looking LVT available out there, but there’s also some very nice looking ceramic too. Choice is yours. I think either is fine.
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I’m not sure if this is normal, so any insight would be helpful.
If I plug my coach into a 120v, 20A receptacle for shore power, the EMS displays that all the loads are available, and they are.
If I happened to have both A/Cs on, both would attempt to run. It still recognizes if I’m plugged into 50a shore power or running off the genny, but being plugged into only 20A I thought the load outputs were automatically throttled back to say one A/C and the water heater. Unless I’m wrong and it dynamically sheds loads as it sees higher current being drawn, in which case it must be malfunctioning as it will try and run both A/Cs on 20A service until it blows the shore breaker. -
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@TW Racing Mind sharing where you got the definitive answer from? I’m assuming you found them..
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Tom - I have checked the parts list, there is no mention in the airbag section, not even grouped with other models.
Strange that it’s the airbags I seem to be getting nowhere with. 🤷♂️Might get in touch with source tomorrow and see what they say. Thanks.
Loss of turbo boost gauge - 2005 Camelot
in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
Posted
Loss of boost will affect your engine. Ask me how I know. You will not climb grades, you will be blowing black soot, and your engine will derate. It will not be happy.