BradHend

Are you sure this applies to the wood in the RV? Seems like it’s speaking of an imported shipment, no? I’ve never heard of this, fellow Canadian 🇨🇦  

A pictures worth a thousand words

Hi all.   
Near the end of our season last year I noticed the windshield wipers intermittently stopped working.  Upon investigation I found the entire case of the windshield wiper motor was all cracked up.  I’ve contacted Wiper Technologies, which was listed on the motor with the pertinent info for a replacement, they came back with a model D103 from Wexco.  I was able to find a new one on eBay for half the price anywhere else, but it says it is a dynamic park, whereas the one suggested from Wiper Technologies had no data indicating of such.  
Can anyone with a D103, or same as what’s in my picture, in a Monaco (‘05 Cayman 32PBD in my instance) tell me for sure which style? From what I can tell, dynamic or not, they both still had a 5 pin connector.

Appreciate any input on this.  Thanks.

Current Wiper Motor: 

 

What I found on eBay:

Might as well cross off some basics…there’s an ignition interlock.   Is your key off? Is it just that slide that won’t come in? Do you notice lights dimming when you attempt to bring it in? Do you have a meter to check fuses/power/switches? 

What all does that Sony device do? Any details on it?

5 hours ago, saflyer said:

Does anyone know the brand/model of hydraulic leveling legs on a 2005 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 40 PLQ? Is any information printed on them? I don’t have the build sheet.

Also, any advice on a source for them?

Ed

Could I ask what’s up with your levelling system?
My rear driver side jack sticks down on my ‘05 Cayman ever since I bought it last year.  Quite annoying and often difficult to get it to retract by myself. Basically stopped using the whole system for now. 
Haven’t decided whether to pull it to see what a reseal kit and dressing the plunger will do, or to just replace them.  
They are spring return and quite rusty even on the plungers surfaces.  Not cheap items to replace, so hoping a repaint and a descent servicing will suffice. 

As of right now, yes.  Highly doubt that will change in a month the way things are going. 

This sounds like a really good time.  So many items listed that I would love to discuss with all the experts. 
Would I able to bring my children along with me? Two girls, 6 & 9. Coming from Canada, so couldn’t really justify our first long trip in our motorhome to Florida without bringing the kiddos along.  
Also, if the border happens to close up again or something, I would assume this is non refundable?

Just bought a pair of these from Amazon for my wet bay ones about 2 months ago.  They are called Pin Switches. 

That click is the solenoid plunger moving and basically activating a bigger switch that connects your house and chassis battery. 

It sounds like you now know the solenoid is changing state when your DW hits the switch up front, so that seems to check out okay.  
You said that hitting that switch had no effect on trying to start your coach up and that the solenoid was getting quite warm when it was energized.  I’m not sure what the fail rate is on the internal contacts, but it might not hurt to take a resistance reading across the terminals, with the wires safely removed of course.  😀.  Take a couple readings and let us know your numbers.   

Positive lead on purple, negative lead on white.  When the switch is activated you should be seeing 12V.  If you hook it up backwards, it’s fine, your meter would just show -12V

As to why you experienced that in the first place…could be a pleather of things not even related to the battery.  I’d wait and see if it does it again, the problem will no doubt rear it’s head if there is something strange going on. 

That solenoid is what connects your house batteries in parallel with your coach batteries when you press the boost switch up front.  If it isn’t clicking, check for power (12VDC) at the solenoid terminals when pressing the boost switch. 

You *can* use the switch, but if it’s starting the engine, what’s the need to use it?

Is that solenoid underneath the two red battery disconnects clicking when you press the boost button?

@wayne.cerven@gmail.com, are your brakes hydraulic, and parking brake air?

Any more info on these? Thanks. 

Send it to me, I’d be more than happy to try and fix it for ya. 

Holy smokes.  Makes my high pressure pump I replaced sound not so bad.  However, If I was in that situation, probably would have abandoned the stock lift pump and had them install the FASS system, I think for cheaper.  Will be doing that to my Cayman next year I think.   

Yes.  I’ve ran into this as well.  Almost makes it not worth the time sifting through the results.  

Update on the 2215 fault:

The MoHo is alive again! Installed the new CP3 pump, ensured the supply side was clear of air (I had previously changed the fuel filters as first step of troubleshooting) and she fired on the third crank. Took her for a test drive for some diesel and she seems to be running just fine.  
Little tip for anyone who has to change their CP3 with the same setup as me however… When you loosen the rail supply line clamp that is right beside the pump, don’t use a 10mm ratchet wrench that only works one way (no ratchet selection) like I did. 🤬 I was loosening it off in the dark with a flashlight and just as it was getting loose and I figured it would come out, it started getting tight again:

Yup.  Got it wedged up on the hose connector and couldn’t get the darn bolt out.  Silver lining was that it was a swivel wrench, so I was able to separate it and hand turn it in enough until the ratchet piece could fall off.  Bit of a pain, but lesson learned none the less.  
Thanks again everyone for the input.  Truly appreciated and so lucky to have access to a site like this.  

Sorry to hear of your problems, I did a search as well off the Cummins quick-serve site to see if I could help at all, but doesn’t look like there’s much you can do.  

ShopTalk for the fault from Cummins states:

“This fault code can only be caused by an internal ECM problem. Repairs are not possible for the ECM.”

Possible reason states:

”Engine Control Module - critical internal failure. Error internal to the ECM related to memory hardware failures or internal ECM voltage supply circuits. Engine may not start. 

Not sure what you should do.  If it’s running okay, I would probably chance it if it’s not too far.  
Good luck, keep us posted.  

👍😂

Flyinhy, I’ve heard all kinds of numbers,  but the average seems to be around 5-7K PSI minimum during cranking to get it to fire.  
 

After spending most of the weekend diagnosing and learning how the fuel system works and different ways of checking things, I came to the conclusion that it had to be the high pressure injection pump. Could not for the life of me get pressure to build up on the rail.  Sure enough, took out the CP3 pump just now and decided to investigate.   Dont need to explain much with those pictures.  
Getting a refurbed unit from a local guy for about $1300 Canadian.   Just to clarify also, my coach has started, idled and ran absolutely fine since I got it.  When this happened, it was basically at an idle approaching a yield sign.  I believe this is a good check for anyone that experiences a similar issue of not being able to build up  pressure and a 2215 fault - take that aluminum cover off, which is easily accessible, and check for a broken shaft.  Takes a bit of guess work out of the equation.  
I appreciate and thank everyone that chimed in on this.  Only thing that concerns me now is was it just the shafts time to go, or is there an underlying issue?

Will Hopefully be putting the replacement in this weekend, time and weather permitting.  I’ll keep yas posted.

I got the code from the on board diagnostic, turn the key on, fully depress the gas pedal 3 times and the code is flashed via the “stop engine” light. 

Jacwjames, I filled it up with new fuel when I got it home from the seller, after changing the  fuel filters yesterday, I see no evidence of algae.  

I think I’ve narrowed it down to a bad pressure sensor on the high pressure common rail, or a bad high pressure pump.  Will need to get a gauge made up so I can check the PSI on the rail while cranking to see if it’s within spec,  from what I’ve read it should be around 100psi.  If that checks out, I’ll buy a new pressure sensor.  If that still doesn’t do it, guess I’ll need to send her in and get ready to bend over. 😢