Irishman1

I like your fuel economy with your boat my 1965 chris craft got about 20 gallons an hour each engine, at seven knots, that was my sweet spot. Twin engine Oldsmobile 503’s. Now my Monaco monarch is getting about 10 miles per gallon. I’m happy with that.

I’ll check, it definitely sounds like a warning buzzer that goes away as soon as the pedal is released or you put the gear selector out of park. I haven’t checked it it does it with just the key in and not running tho That sounds like what’s going on with mine, an electric buzzer when the keys is turned on and the brake pedal is pushed until it’s started, then it hoes off. Thanks

2005 monarch 30ppd with the ford f53 chassis. Want to know if this is normal. When the mh is running and in park there is a loud buzzing noise when you push the brake pedal. Maybe a warning buzzer? Goes away when you move the gear select out of park or take you foot off pedal. I’ll look for a speaker or buzzer under the dash later

I’ll try going through the connections, they do seem tight tho. . I do have a pretty extensive collection of electrical tools and testers to make and test my own 12v wiring harnesses for my honda restorations. That’s one reason I’m so frustrated. I’ve done enough wiring to know not to let the magic smoke out! Lol. I just tired one last time with another new lighted switch with no joy. At least the water heater IS coming on and heating on both 12v and 120v , just no light in known good switches.hmmmm. After I install a new damper switch in my microwave, install my safe-t-plus and my new converter I’ll swing back to it. Thanks again for all the ideas. I still would like just one picture of the back of a 2004-5 monarch 30ppd panel showing the stock wiring with the matching switches. That would be the easiest way for me confirm I have the wiring back the way it was😢

I didn’t say “LEAVE IT ALONE” thank you. I said “leave for another day “ quite different. I’m just going to work on a few other things and come back to it. again. Thanks for the help

It was exactly the same, the lighted switch that lit up when turning on th 12v did not light up when installed in the 120v circuit. The 120v lighted switch that did not light up when turn on anymore did light up when swapped to the 12v position. It did not light up when I swapped them back to original positions. That’s when I last tried a new lighted switch from e trailer that they sourced for me Now after all the messing around, the hot water is getting hit with either or both switches. However the 120v switch still is not lighting up when turned on. Since I have hit wster with it I’m going to just leave it for another day and get back to installing my new safe-T-plus stabilizer and get my Apple TV set up.. thank you to all of you for the help and guidance!!!!

Having thought it was just a burned out light bulb in the 120v switch and I still have hot water with the 12v gas switch I had swapped the switches with no difference in symptoms, no light on the switch, I then replaced the 120v switch that did not light up with a new switch from e-trailer and the symptoms remained the same as stated in the beginning. Have done that I figured it must be something else and asked here. I’m pretty sure the switch is not the problem here and is downstream

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Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams the two white wires are jumped between the top terminals yhe middle black wires are jumped tiger and tied to the water pump power switch the green bottom terminal and the bottom grey wires go down the wall . The bottom grey shows 13 bolts when the 12v switch is on. That’s the only power I read with any terminal

Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams

Yes, thank you, just what I needed. My two lighted switches have thee ‘terminals’ I originally swapped the switches when the 120v light stopped illuminating thinking it was just the switch lite that was bad since I still had hot water. When I swapped switches it was still the 120v switch that didn’t lite up. Swapped them back and tried the breaker and fuses, which are all good. Had installed a new lighted switch since I had one. There is a small possibility that I didn’t wire the switches back correctly and I did have a bad switch, so I need to make sure the wires are on the correct terminals before chasing my tail around however unlikely. If all is correct and still no electric function I’ll need to get at the water heater and test there

Is there another switch besides the two on the panel? I switched the lighted switches first and then tried a new one to no joy.. I’ll take a picture of the back of the switches tomorrow. Show what it looks like in real life. There is a white jumper between the top two poles..the Atwood wiring diagram shows just two poles on the back of the switches but my two switches have three poles. I wonder if I mixed up the jumper at some point when I was trying a new switch and then put it back incorrectly jumped

I’ll check that. Thanks!

Here’s a pic of my panel. And a small water heater wiring diag. Not sure now that checking power to and from the switch is as straight forward as I think. The switch definitely doesn’t light up when turned on but switching the switch with a known hood one doesn’t work either so I’m confused for sure

I just went out to the mh snd I unplugged the water heater from the single outlet under the sink next to it and I have power to the outlet, I will take the panel off tomorrow and recheck the leads to and from the switch that doesn’t light up. The other problem is that I can’t get to the water heater. It is in the cabinet under the counter besides the sink with no access besides the outside panel😢the Cabinet walls are solid on each side. I thought I could remove the sink and come down from the top but the double sink is off to the inside of the water heater. I’ll try to remove the drawers that might get me some access to the side with the power cord. But first I’ll recheck the panel wiring snd switches