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Posted (edited)

I drove my new MH home today. 99 Diplomat 38A DP. Most nerve wracking 200 miles I've driven since my first solo trip in a car from FL to MI when I was 17. Picked it up in Winter Springs near Orlando. Less than 10 miles to the toll roads, didn't really get used to air brakes, turning, accelerating, and steering. By the time I got to the second turnpike, my hands had unclenched a little and feeling had returned to my fingers. By the time I got to the FL Turnpike I had figured out how to set the cruise control. Even with that big blue steering stabilizer I found myself getting blown onto the rumble strips by every big rig that passed me. Knowing I couldn't rely on the fuel gauge, where the needle was at the red bars which I think means 'start looking for a fuel stop', I stopped at the Okahumpka Service Plaza and added 50 gals to my 100 gal tank. I figured it give me about 3/4 tank. It filed it to the neck. DamnItMan! That's when I discovered this MH has a fuel door on both sides of the coach. And that the one on the passenger side is missing the cap. I know this because after fueling, I drove to the parking side and got out to go inside the store to grab some lunch, and when I came out the door, the smell of diesel was really strong. Looked right as I exited and notice diesel running down the side of the coach. Open door, and no cap. Stuffed a rag in the neck for a temp fix. Stopped at multiple truck stops on I 75, but couldn't find a cap. On my list for tomorrow along with a visit to the DMV. Side note, did y'all know that a new FL regulation/law/f*ck you joe citizen, or what ever they call it took affect the beginning of 2023? If you register your vehicle at a County Tax Collector/DMV office, it must be the office in your home county. If it's strictly a State DMV, you're fine. But if it's a County building, gotta be home. Closest State office was 219 miles South of where we were. So seller signed all the paperwork and I drove home on his tag. 

The MH seems to be in fairly good shape, engine wise. Plenty of power on the highway. But seems really sluggish from a dead stop. I noticed the transmission temp gage wasn't working. I'm guessing if they went to the trouble to put a tranny temp gage in it must be important to know what temp the tranny is running. Anybody have experience with that repair? 

When I first looked at this MH, the house batteries were dead and the generator wouldn't start, and there was no shore power available. So I couldn't check any of the systems other than the motor fired right up. I was hoping to talk the seller down on price because of that, and the fact it needs new tires. Just my luck, the genny started today, but I still got him to drop the price a little. 

Tomorrow I'll start checking out the various systems onboard and fluids, belts and hoses. Our full time RV life is becoming a reality. We can't wait.

Edited by Dick Roberts
missing words
Posted

Take a look at MonacoWatts.com.  I had a terrifying first trip like the white knuckle drive you spoke of.   Not sure I had even put my "big blue" SafeTPlus on yet.  It was just our first step.

A watts link on the front all but eliminated the roll feeling.  And the rear  cross braces between the back trailing arms and no more tail wag.  If you are lucky you will have a trw steering gear and you can adjust some of the slop out of that.  Sadly we have a Shepard M-100 with a ton of slop and no adjusting screw.  But hey. If this is your first DP like ours was for me, you've got world's to learn.     

BTW although we have spent some  money but 22,000 miles so far we are in love with ours.   After the exhaust manifold leak, if we have any money left, I am ogling those big fat Gold Koni shocks and dreaming about swopping out the M100 steering gear for a TRW.  $$$$

 

Posted

Welcome. Been motor-homing for nearly 10 years. It’s a great experience and I love driving our Monaco through the city! Just makes you smarten up and keeps you young and steady. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Congratulations on your new purchase. Plenty of knowledgeable guys on here with decades of experience with these coaches. I haven't had my executive too long but with the advise from other owners on here and a little blood, sweat and cussing , I have brought my old abandoned bus back to life. Make sure you go through all your systems and make a list of all the potential problems. My list grows everyday...... Tires were my main concern. Happy motoring 😉

Posted

Welcome

You won't need to find another hobby for a while, it will make you laugh and then cry. All good.

Owners manual,read it from cover to cover over and over again.there is an online Motor coach course you can take,if your interested send me your personal email and I can forward you the link with a preview. There are a number of air brake courses as well,In Canada mandatory to have an air brake certification to drive any air brake equipment on public roads,(Canadian citizens)

I am curious how the seller could sell the coach without a fuel cap,tires ,does the coach not need to be certified before it goes out onto public roads ?

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

 

Posted

Dick R,

You have come to the very BEST place on the Internet for HELP and information. Just remember that there is no STUPID question so when in doubt just ask. Once you get used to the forum and how it operates you can use the search function to read about many problems and solutions that have been covered previously. I would also strongly suggest downloading the Monacoers Parts List to your local device so it will be handy when you don't have a good Internet connection.

You won't find any snarky remarks here like you will in other forums and if there are they are dealt with quickly. We are here to learn and help our members so we can enjoy our Monaco coaches for many years to come.

There is also a yearly Gathering held at Lazy Days every February which is a "must do" especially for newbies. The 2023 one will be February 14th through the 19th. You can read about it here. 

 

Posted
9 hours ago, Dick Roberts said:

I drove my new MH home today. 99 Diplomat 38A DP. Most nerve wracking 200 miles I've driven since my first solo trip in a car from FL to MI when I was 17. Picked it up in Winter Springs near Orlando. Less than 10 miles to the toll roads, didn't really get used to air brakes, turning, accelerating, and steering. By the time I got to the second turnpike, my hands had unclenched a little and feeling had returned to my fingers. By the time I got to the FL Turnpike I had figured out how to set the cruise control. Even with that big blue steering stabilizer I found myself getting blown onto the rumble strips by every big rig that passed me. Knowing I couldn't rely on the fuel gauge, where the needle was at the red bars which I think means 'start looking for a fuel stop', I stopped at the Okahumpka Service Plaza and added 50 gals to my 100 gal tank. I figured it give me about 3/4 tank. It filed it to the neck. DamnItMan! That's when I discovered this MH has a fuel door on both sides of the coach. And that the one on the passenger side is missing the cap. I know this because after fueling, I drove to the parking side and got out to go inside the store to grab some lunch, and when I came out the door, the smell of diesel was really strong. Looked right as I exited and notice diesel running down the side of the coach. Open door, and no cap. Stuffed a rag in the neck for a temp fix. Stopped at multiple truck stops on I 75, but couldn't find a cap. On my list for tomorrow along with a visit to the DMV. Side note, did y'all know that a new FL regulation/law/f*ck you joe citizen, or what ever they call it took affect the beginning of 2023? If you register your vehicle at a County Tax Collector/DMV office, it must be the office in your home county. If it's strictly a State DMV, you're fine. But if it's a County building, gotta be home. Closest State office was 219 miles South of where we were. So seller signed all the paperwork and I drove home on his tag. 

The MH seems to be in fairly good shape, engine wise. Plenty of power on the highway. But seems really sluggish from a dead stop. I noticed the transmission temp gage wasn't working. I'm guessing if they went to the trouble to put a tranny temp gage in it must be important to know what temp the tranny is running. Anybody have experience with that repair? 

When I first looked at this MH, the house batteries were dead and the generator wouldn't start, and there was no shore power available. So I couldn't check any of the systems other than the motor fired right up. I was hoping to talk the seller down on price because of that, and the fact it needs new tires. Just my luck, the genny started today, but I still got him to drop the price a little. 

Tomorrow I'll start checking out the various systems onboard and fluids, belts and hoses. Our full time RV life is becoming a reality. We can't wait.

Welcome,

I could not help but give you a piece of advice that a buddy gave me.  He had a 40 footer sail boat and lived with he and his wife, they took early retirement, for several years until I lured him back and he was a valued consultant....and they gave up the nautical life to be in port near their parents who needed care.  He was very good at repairs.

He said that owning a motor home or a off shore sail boat gave you the opportunity to make repairs in more exotic climes than what your classic car would do when it died in your garage.  YES....get the Tranny Temp sensor working....it should, after maybe 25 miles be close to the engine temperature....

Posted

Welcome, sounds like you are off to a great start. I would encourage you to poke around on this site, the manuals section is l well stocked.

Posted
7 hours ago, TomV48 said:

Take a look at MonacoWatts.com.  I had a terrifying first trip like the white knuckle drive you spoke of.   Not sure I had even put my "big blue" SafeTPlus on yet.  It was just our first step.

A watts link on the front all but eliminated the roll feeling.  And the rear  cross braces between the back trailing arms and no more tail wag.  If you are lucky you will have a trw steering gear and you can adjust some of the slop out of that.  Sadly we have a Shepard M-100 with a ton of slop and no adjusting screw.  But hey. If this is your first DP like ours was for me, you've got world's to learn.     

BTW although we have spent some  money but 22,000 miles so far we are in love with ours.   After the exhaust manifold leak, if we have any money left, I am ogling those big fat Gold Koni shocks and dreaming about swopping out the M100 steering gear for a TRW.  $$$$

 

point of clarification.  IF you have the dreaded SHEPHERD Steering Box (Sector), that is the FIRST THING you do.  Adding the Watts Link is a great fix for the wandering and such.  However, the sequence is SWAP STEERING BOXES TO TRW.  THEN install the Watts.

Yes, the Koni's will improve the ride....yes the RIDE.  But they do little if anything for the wandering and steering wheel play and getting jacked around when a truck passes you. 

Been THERE....DONE THAT....

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

If you like tinkering/fixing/ repairing/learning you will enjoy the rig.  But owning an RV similar to what you purchased is not for the faint of heart, get ready to spend some money BUT if you an avid DYI'er you can save a lot of money.   You've joined a good group to help you on your journey 

When I bought my coach in Florida I had to drive it back 800 miles to E TN, flew down with a small carry on and drove it back with no tools, just took a leap of faith and I got lucky.   First thing I did was take it to the nearest Cummins shop, I knew the manager and he took care of me, I asked for a complete inspection and health report and it came back with flying colors.  This gave me a base line going forward.  He also downloaded the ECM onto a disc and gave me a paper copy, good thing to do if you ever have it in a shop.

My dash gauges are pretty much useless.  Fuel gauge was never accurate, there is a calibration you can try but it didn't help mine much.  My oil pressure gauge showed oil pressure pegged when I first bought the coach, had Cummins check it and they said that the sensor was installed in the wrong port, they moved it but the gauge still reads wrong.  The rest of the gauges are barely visible when driving  So after have it a couple years I finally decided to get a Silverleaf VMSpc monitoring system (there are other options), you can display any of the stats that the ECM monitors and set up a display screed to your liking.  This gives me real time information.  It also has a fuel tank monitor, you put in your tank capacity and based on ECM fuel consumption you get a very accurate tank monitor, mine is usually within 1% of actual when I fill up the tank. 

So, just keep asking questions, lots of knowledgeable people here to help.

Edited by jacwjames
Posted

The County DMV's can't keep track of everyone else's county tax and be expected to transfer said tax to home county so yeah . . . . you need to register in your home county.  But a State DMV can do all that.  Same in GA. 

If you think your Dip blows all over the road try driving an old Ford F53 based motorhome.  We went from Ford to Roadmaster (Monaco family) and was in pure heaven.  Our Endeavor (Holiday Rambler sister to the Diplomat) is worlds above the old gasser.  And yes, ours has the Shepherd steering box (no Watts link). 

One of Cummins' weak links is the CAPS fuel pump on your 98 ISC motor.  It PULLS fuel from the tank to the motor that strains the pump.  There's a lift pump that runs for 30 sec to aid in starting but that's it.  Oh, and the lift pump, located about a foot above the starter, has been known to stop working and even leak (thanks to our gov't mandated ULSD fuel).  Once they leak they also suck air into the CAPS pump.  Very bad.  Several of us have installed an aftermarket fuel pump to supply the CAPS pump with positive pressure while the engine is running.  Just Google FASS in any of the RV forums.  $700 is a much better investment than $4,000. 

My gauges are also wonky, except for the low "get fuel NOW" fuel light which is pretty accurate.  On my drool list is the VmSpec monitoring system.  All the gauges on one glass display, AND they're dependable and accurate.  You'll find your chassis tank gauges are also inaccurate but, except for the black tank, not nearly as critical. 

Depend on the great straight shooting advice on this forum. 

Enjoy your new adventure.

- bob

Posted

Congratulations Dick,

 

Welcome to motorhome ownership!  A motorhome is just like a BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand) 😄  But, I would not trade the motorhome experience for anything!!

To help you with the issues discovered:

  • Fuel Cap
    • The best place to buy a fuel cap is to visit an Autozone or Advanced Auto as they have many fuel caps in stock.  Bring your existing fuel cap into the store and start comparing until you find the matching fuel cap then buy a spare just in case.  Make sure to bring your motorhome so that you can test the new fuel cap in the parking lot so avoid many trips back and forth.
  • Transmission Temperature Gage
    • Allison Transmission puts their data stream on the J1708 Canbus or the J1939 Canbus, depending on how your motorhome is equipped
      • Using your Engine Make and Model, call your local engine dealer and have them look up the canbus type for you.  It will be either the J1708 canbus or the J1939 canbus)
      • Select a Canbus to Bluetooth adapter from Bluefirellc.com and view page 7 to determine which engine canbus interface is required on page 7 
      • Purchase a Canbus to Bluetooth adapter from Bluefirellc.com using the outcome of the getting started guide on page 7
      • After receiving your canbus adapter and loading the Bluefire software on your iPhone or Android, check to see if your transmission temperature is being transmitted on the canbus while the engine is running:
        • If you see Transmission temperature data on the Canbus, then your dashboard transmission temperature gage is defective (95% probability) or your wiring to your dashboard transmission temperature gage is defective (5% probability)
        • If you don't see Transmission temperature data on the Canbus, then your transmission temperature sensor is defective.

If you prefer not to troubleshoot your transmission temperature sensor via DIY, you can have your transmission temperature sensor checked by an Allison Transmission authorized service center.  Be prepared to spend ~$200+ to have an Allison Transmission authorized service center diagnose this issue for you.  

You probably have an Allison MD3060 transmission.  I believe this transmission will require a TranSynd fluid change to replace the transmission temperature sender if the temperature sender is defective.  If that is the case, the TranSynd fluid and filter change will cost ~$600-$800 to have an Allison Transmission authorized service center do this fluid change for you.  You also have a transmission retarder, so the TranSynd fluid will need to be replaced every ~15000 to ~20000 miles, depending on your duty cycle as specified by Allison Transmission.  

You should proceed to replace the transmission fluid and filters in any case as soon as possible except in the case that you have service documentation from the prior owner where you definitively know when the transmission fluid and filters were last changed.  Keep in mind that replacing or overhauling an Allison Transmission in a motorhome can cost between ~$10000-$20000, so don't skimp on Allison transmission maintenance. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Monaco actually installed their own sending units for the transmission temp, oil pressure, and engine temp and these provide the signals for the dash gauges.  So if your transmission is showing high on the dash it is different then what the ECM is seeing.  The sending unit for the tranny temp is mounted in an aluminum block on the hose going to the cooler, you can see if you get low and look at the transmission pan. 

The part number for my tranny temp sending unit is attached, it may be different then yours but gives you an idea what it looks like.

 

 

1 Transmission Oil Sending Unit.pdf

Posted

And that is why I love this site. So many good responses. Thanks to all y'all. I haven't checked but I must already have the TRW box, as I have almost NO play in my steering. No rolling, no wagging, just a big sail. When I was getting blown onto the rumble strips, the MH just slid over like it was on ice, so I'm hoping it's a result of bad tires. I started anticipating the wind from the big rigs as they approached and was able to keep it between the lines as they passed by the time I reached I-75 and home. I haven't checked for any other steering add-ons so I don't know about the Watts or shocks. I'll check tomorrow. Today was reg and title work, done, wipers done, and found a fuel cap first try at my local no name auto parts shop. I was amazed that in my little farm town of Bell FL, I was able to find both. Then I spent an hour looking for the slide switch. I know it has one, because I have a slide. But after searching inside and out, no switch found. My other failed attempt involved my awning. Can't get it to unlock and extend. I did find the sticking point, I think. It won't unlock. The lock mechanism on the struts is loose now, but the little gizmo lock on the awning itself is stuck, and I didn't have a big enough hammer to break it free. Tomorrow I'll try PB Blaster and the like to see if I can get it free. All my gauges are working and readable, except the tranny temp. After I get in touch with an Alison shop, I will look into the unit that monitors the systems in one screen. 

Wayne, here in FL they discontinued vehicle inspections years ago. Sadly. So you can buy or sell junk vehicles and put them right on the road. My tires are 2016, and have plenty of tread, but starting to check and probably hard with little traction. When I was getting blown of the road, there was no pressure on the steering wheel, it just slid across the pavement like it was on ice. New tires will correct that, I hope. 

Biggest concern for me tomorrow is unsticking the awning lock, and finding the switch for the slide. Any thoughts?

Thanks, 

Posted
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Monaco actually installed their own sending units for the transmission temp, oil pressure, and engine temp and these provide the signals for the dash gauges.  So if your transmission is showing high on the dash it is different then what the ECM is seeing.  The sending unit for the tranny temp is mounted in an aluminum block on the hose going to the cooler, you can see if you get low and look at the transmission pan. 

The part number for my tranny temp sending unit is attached, it may be different then yours but gives you an idea what it looks like.

 

 

1 Transmission Oil Sending Unit.pdf 60.27 kB · 7 downloads

Be advised that a faulty gage can be because the original instrument cluster has issues with one particular gage.  Depending on what system (ACTI, Medallion or Faria...there may be others), there is a multipin connector that goes into a "central gage" or perhaps one of the main clusters. Then that cluster is like the "data collection center".  It sends out the signals to may other gages located in the dash.  So, a faulty Tranny Gage may be a bad sensor or it might be a bad gage.  You need to determine the brand or manufacturer of the gage cluster and see if you can get prints.  The prints will tell you which wire or input on the multipin (may be two) is the INPUT or the signal from the sensor.  Then you test that.  No signal....bingo....bad sensor.  Good signal....OPPS....the central unit has an issue or that gage has an issue.

If you watch the gages when your turn on the key, you may see them move.  If the suspect gage has NO movement (assuming they all do), then that may be the gage.

There are many topic (threads if you will) about getting older gages repaired.  The type of gage varies all over the map and the way it "moves" also.  Some are magnetic, some are stepper motor.  Some are direct reading (like an analog voltage meter) and the list goes on.  The folks that rebuild or repair the gages are like "watchmakers" in that they disassemble and do their magic.

Many folks have opted for letting a defective gage just "sit there" and then purchasing an aftermarket gage and mounting it.

So, there is not one good answer.  In the future, you might want to do some searches for gages and then look for topics that are specific for your year and model.  Takes a little work, but you benefit from what is in the site...

 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Dick Roberts said:

And that is why I love this site. So many good responses. Thanks to all y'all. I haven't checked but I must already have the TRW box, as I have almost NO play in my steering. No rolling, no wagging, just a big sail. When I was getting blown onto the rumble strips, the MH just slid over like it was on ice, so I'm hoping it's a result of bad tires. I started anticipating the wind from the big rigs as they approached and was able to keep it between the lines as they passed by the time I reached I-75 and home. I haven't checked for any other steering add-ons so I don't know about the Watts or shocks. I'll check tomorrow. Today was reg and title work, done, wipers done, and found a fuel cap first try at my local no name auto parts shop. I was amazed that in my little farm town of Bell FL, I was able to find both. Then I spent an hour looking for the slide switch. I know it has one, because I have a slide. But after searching inside and out, no switch found. My other failed attempt involved my awning. Can't get it to unlock and extend. I did find the sticking point, I think. It won't unlock. The lock mechanism on the struts is loose now, but the little gizmo lock on the awning itself is stuck, and I didn't have a big enough hammer to break it free. Tomorrow I'll try PB Blaster and the like to see if I can get it free. All my gauges are working and readable, except the tranny temp. After I get in touch with an Alison shop, I will look into the unit that monitors the systems in one screen. 

Wayne, here in FL they discontinued vehicle inspections years ago. Sadly. So you can buy or sell junk vehicles and put them right on the road. My tires are 2016, and have plenty of tread, but starting to check and probably hard with little traction. When I was getting blown of the road, there was no pressure on the steering wheel, it just slid across the pavement like it was on ice. New tires will correct that, I hope. 

Biggest concern for me tomorrow is unsticking the awning lock, and finding the switch for the slide. Any thoughts?

Thanks, 

https://www.monacocoach.com/service-and-repairs/

You sound like you do NOT have an Owner's Manual.  UNFORTUNATELY, the Monaco Online manuals begin in year 2000.  BUT, i would download the one for you rig and start reading it.  you can compare the pictures for the various components, switches, gages, etc.  THEN see how close.

If a member has a manual, in the past many would ask for a copy and of course, pick up the cost for scanning/copying at a local office supply house.  You might also, assuming you do NOT have a manual, try ebay.

OK....TRW or Shepherd.  That is the question.  The answer is easy.  It is in here but here is the easy way...

https://mrsteeringspecialist.com/product/ross-trw-pitman-steering-arm-box-448164/

https://mrsteeringspecialist.com/product/sheppard-pitman-steering-arm-box-m100-2596284/

Look at the pictures.  Notice on the TRW that there is a clamp or bolt that goes through the arm on the end.  But on the Shepherd, it just is driven on (splines engaged).  There will be an external device on the shaft of the Shepherd gear box that locks or holds the pitman arm on.  But the TRW uses the clamp or the bolt through it.  Crawl under and use your flashlight.  If you see the clamp or the bolt on the end of the arm....TRW.  Bolt or device that locks the arm onto the shaft - Shepherd.

NOW....back to the MANUAL.  If you do NOT have the manual, you really need to download the 2000.  At the end, there is a lubrication chart showing all the fittings.  ODDS ARE, you have TWO fittings on the steering linkage.  There is fitting UNDER the MH above the steering box.  Whilst under there looking at the arm, shine the light up and look or even feel around.  That one often escapes folks.  Then, assuming you have the tilt and telescoping steering column, you take the clamshell cover off (the one below the steering wheel).  There will be a fitting inside it.  Use a hand powered gun on it.

The usual drill for a NEW owner...and you said, I THINK, that you have some maintenance records....GO THROUGH THEM.  Look for the following

Chassis Lubrication, oil and filter change, fuel filters change, air filter change, front axle bearing packing, rear differential oil change.  Then look for the Genny service records for oil, air, fuel....  also look for dates when the coolant on the engine and generator was serviced.  The manual has the intervals....and you can also download a manual for the genny.

  • Like 1
Posted

Being about the same vintage, my hydraulic slide switch is hidden in a cabinet above entry door, if you haven't looked there yet.

  • Like 1
Posted

We should talk about safety, Air ride and air brakes.

I am skiddish like a cat when it comes to crawling underneath the rid,firm ground and jack stands in the area where I am going to be,have to remember that there is no room for any of us under the coach if the air was ever dumped from the system,I will bring it to the truck shop if I am unsure. 

Airbrakes, if the button is pushed in and or brake seems to be dragging, set of good quality wheel chocks.

Wayne

1999 Signature ceaser 

 

Posted
4 minutes ago, WayneC said:

I am skiddish like a cat when it comes to crawling underneath the rid,firm ground and jack stands in the area where I am going to be,have to remember that there is no room for any of us under the coach if the air was ever dumped from the system,I will bring it to the truck shop if I am unsure. 

I would be comfortable with sticking a wooden block next to each air bag with jacks extended. 

- bob

Posted
5 minutes ago, WayneC said:

 

I am skiddish like a cat when it comes to crawling underneath the rid, 

 

LOL.... Try crawling under there with an air powered grease gun, the 'H' frame about an inch above your chest, and the portable electric air compressor fires up 😮!

I almost sh** myself 😂!!

 

  • Haha 2
Posted
14 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

point of clarification.  IF you have the dreaded SHEPHERD Steering Box (Sector), that is the FIRST THING you do.  Adding the Watts Link is a great fix for the wandering and such.  However, the sequence is SWAP STEERING BOXES TO TRW.  THEN install the Watts.

Yes, the Koni's will improve the ride....yes the RIDE.  But they do little if anything for the wandering and steering wheel play and getting jacked around when a truck passes you. 

Been THERE....DONE THAT....

Hi again Tom Cherry,

If I can't get Mike Hughes to swap my steering box in his shop, do we have any good recommendations on here for a reliable shop to do it for me.     I'm in SoCal. Haven't spoken to anyone near  here who makes me feel good about it and that I can cost justify.   I have been looking at a couple options around Coberg, OR.

Your wealth of knowledge is invaluable.

Thanks. Tom Pratt 

Posted

When a customer brings in a coach for service and has a problem we always start troubleshooting by looking at the simple causes first. More times then not it is some stupid thing causing the problem. With this in mind, before you get knee deep in trouble shooting your tranny gauge do yourself a favor - check the wiring on the back of the gauge. I have had 2 gauges fail on me while driving. Both ended up being a loose wire on the back of the gauge. Monacos are known to have weird things happen to their gauges from time to time and many times it can be traced back to a loose wire or bad ground.

There will be days your coach will provide you with smiles and happiness................ And there will be days you will be looking for a gas can and a match. No idea what type of boat you owned but if it was a diesel powered motoryacht then think of your new coach as the same thing. They have the same exact systems - electrical, plumbing, etc.

Good luck with your new coach.

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