Deepseated

You are more at risk of burning/melting stuff than stray current affecting components. We used to weld sensitive areas by using a double ground on both sides of the work area.

This thread was very helpful with my brake controller install. I found the brake control plug relatively quickly inside the driver's panel (left side). The white bundle of wires was printed "brake controller," I metered everything and soldered the harness up. When testing the trailer brakes, I had to fall back and read the instructions for the different modes on the LED display. I was missing the calibration mode "CC" because I needed to power cycle the unit to get it settled with the trailer brakes and have the trailer connected for proper grounding. The CURT 51140 TriFlex has a built-in microprocessor to detect faults. Very handy but needs a full boot-up to calibrate and function properly. I originally purchased the Curt 51200 in-line Bluetooth controller which works excellent on my F250 truck and tri-axle trailer. Unplug the back of the 7-pin and install the 51200 inline. To add this to the RV would require cutting into the 7-pin harness at the rear bumper. Thanks for the great discussion here.

I went the truck bed liner route. After grinding off the old bra material the application was simple with an undercoating gun. Color matching takes some practice but what a durable finish against bugs and rocks.

I agree with most others, hang in there, these are complex mobile systems. We bought our current coach from a craigslist ad, upon delivery the seller started informing us of "things" that might happen including the loss of all dashboard gages. Sure enough, the gages didn't make the 7 mile trip home before they flat lined. It took me hours and hours of tracing wires and checking connections until finally I replaced the speedometer gage to get a functioning dashboard. Frustrating? yup, but I now understand my coaches wiring system better than anyone and can affect my own repairs. Welcome to the club, don't hesitate to ask questions.

I have used Thetfort RV toilet seal lube and conditioner in the past and it's worked well, likely the easiest approach.

Well I am happy the original question was asked, keen eye Tom! I was unaware of this transfer switch issue, and currently running the same IOTA unit. Just ordered a WFCO T57 switch from Amazon for 178.00.

Welcome, sounds like you are off to a great start. I would encourage you to poke around on this site, the manuals section is l well stocked.

Hi buzz, Please take a look at your grammar and spelling, looks like you might be using a voice to text? Just like our signature lines providing basic information, clarity in text helps to understand your message.

Once again this site was a tremendous help. Researching part numbers for a cracked, leaking hydraulic reservoir and the manual that Frank shared pointed me right to it. Thank you.

I clicked on the link to another RV forum, it seems the original post was created by Fridge defend to promote their product. This is an important distinction to note when reading personal stories of loss bolstered by a vendor selling a product. This is the first time I have heard of a "fridge fires" trend and I have been using this RV technology for many many years, in some cases a fridge that was in a 1980's RV still running great. I personally cannot understand the logic of swapping a fridge for a 120 volt only option, losing the ability to run off propane/12V.

Bob, If the heater is blowing fuses, likely the heating element is pulling too many amps maybe from age. I would bypass the thermal fuse for a second and measure amp draw if you haven't already.

Dewalt battery to the slide motor with two short alligator clipped jumpers.

Check voltage at the switch.

I use Blue Fire, it's a bit technical on the App side of it, with some patience and reading its a good solution, see enclosed PDF. Getting Started v6.3.pdf

Great idea thanks.