Irishman1
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Posts posted by Irishman1
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On 10/20/2023 at 7:19 PM, dl_racing427 said:
Is this a hydroboost brake system?
I've driven a few trucks with those, that could make a buzzing sound if a little air got into the power steering/brake boost system.
Does it do it if you push the brakes with the ignition switch in the run position, but the engine not running?I’ll check, it definitely sounds like a warning buzzer that goes away as soon as the pedal is released or you put the gear selector out of park. I haven’t checked it it does it with just the key in and not running tho
Just now, Irishman1 said:I’ll check, it definitely sounds like a warning buzzer that goes away as soon as the pedal is released or you put the gear selector out of park. I haven’t checked it it does it with just the key in and not running tho
On 10/19/2023 at 1:33 PM, Tom Cherry said:There were some “unusual” circuits around that time. A Workhorse model would “think” that the parking brake was on, when you hit a bump and “jiggled” the seemingly rigid switch mount of the plunger….disconcerting to say the least…hit another bump….go off.
I would try to find a Ford HD truck shop. They have the prints. The brake pedal circuit thinks something is WRONG. For example, is there a fluid level switch in the master cylinder? WH had an air over hydraulic system and if the level in the HD brake reservoir got low….it warned you….check the fluid level. If full, is there a sensor or switch on it? But, without the chassis print….it is a crap shoot…..
OF COURSE….if you ask Google….nicely and with the right phrasing…..
May be your issue. NOW….is the “buzzing” you hear NORMAL….only a Ford HD Tech can tell you….one would NOT want a motor to fail that is critical to the brakes….
Let us know…..
That sounds like what’s going on with mine, an electric buzzer when the keys is turned on and the brake pedal is pushed until it’s started, then it hoes off. Thanks
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2005 monarch 30ppd with the ford f53 chassis. Want to know if this is normal. When the mh is running and in park there is a loud buzzing noise when you push the brake pedal. Maybe a warning buzzer? Goes away when you move the gear select out of park or take you foot off pedal. I’ll look for a speaker or buzzer under the dash later
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On 10/2/2023 at 8:03 AM, Tom Cherry said:
NOPE...you didn't. I said that as in....LEAVE IT ALONE as in "WHILST YOU ATTEND TO MORE URGENT THINGS"... Thus the LOL...
I really THINK that you have a connection issue in the white ground wiring. That is, based on your exasperation and frustration in troubleshooting, the only logical conclusion. The Ground is series strung....so it APPEARS to be coming in via the working (light on) gas switch. BUT, if might just be that the connectors inside the Electric switch are loose and you need to crimp the insulation a little to make them tighter. Don't use a superman grip. If there is a problem inside the Gas switch and the ground is not making it to the Electric switch, it MIGHT be simpler to purchase a nice (under $35) RATCHETING crimper on Amazon (one with good rating). We think every MH should not leave home without one. Monaco was NOTORIOUS about not getting multiple wires in a single connector crimped. Tugging each is the first step, especially grounds. I have fixed two or maybe 3..
Fix it when appropriate. Just post what finally happened...
Thanks....
I’ll try going through the connections, they do seem tight tho. . I do have a pretty extensive collection of electrical tools and testers to make and test my own 12v wiring harnesses for my honda restorations. That’s one reason I’m so frustrated. I’ve done enough wiring to know not to let the magic smoke out! Lol. I just tired one last time with another new lighted switch with no joy. At least the water heater IS coming on and heating on both 12v and 120v , just no light in known good switches.hmmmm. After I install a new damper switch in my microwave, install my safe-t-plus and my new converter I’ll swing back to it. Thanks again for all the ideas. I still would like just one picture of the back of a 2004-5 monarch 30ppd panel showing the stock wiring with the matching switches. That would be the easiest way for me confirm I have the wiring back the way it was😢
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23 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
LEAVE IT ALONE…. LOL.
But, post a link or post the E-Trailer part number. IF, you now have power to the Hot Water (12VDC on the GREEN wire) and it heats on 120 VAC….then, odds are….all is well. So….if it works….don’t mess with it.
THERE ARE ONLY TWO LOGICAL ASSUMPTIONS.
The switch has a bad “internal” ON LIGHT LED… OR
The white wire that is jumpered over from the GAS SWITCH “LOOKS FINE”, BUT….that line has a bad connection and the jumper is not connected so you don’t have a ground for the pilot light.
A simple test. Bend a paper clip like a hair pin. Slide it under the pushed on wire connector and put the paper clip on each of the terminal tabs. If the ELECTRIC light switch’s light comes on….bingo.
I think….based on reading your posts….that there is actually a connection issue INSIDE the Orange connector on the GAS siwtch (Gray wire switch). You swapped switches….ELECTRIC worked….NO LIGHT. When you did all your experiments and trouble shooting, the White Ground jumper from the Orange connector on the Gas (Gray wire) to the Electric (Green wire) has come loose.
THIS does need to be fixed. The white ground wire is connected and there is another device that needs a ground from the Electric switch. OR… the terminal is corroded or loose and you need to use a pair of needle nose pliers and tighten up the internal connector.
IF there is NO Ground comimg from the Gray (Gas) switch to Greeen (Electric) switch…then the wire leaving the Green (Electric) switch is NOT taking the white ground wire’s Ground…to whatever is connected to it. Monaco often messed up the crimping when they had two wires on a connection and one was not pushed in far enough. Test the grounds….
I didn’t say “LEAVE IT ALONE” thank you. I said “leave for another day “ quite different. I’m just going to work on a few other things and come back to it.
again. Thanks for the help
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On 9/29/2023 at 6:53 PM, Bill R said:
@Irishman1 When you say you swapped the switches did you do as @Tom Cherry mentioned. swapped the gray and green wires? Did you then turn on the 120V switch, which would now be controlling the 12V gas, and did the light go on and the gas for the water heater ignite and start working? This would be the indication that the switch is good.
It was exactly the same, the lighted switch that lit up when turning on th 12v did not light up when installed in the 120v circuit. The 120v lighted switch that did not light up when turn on anymore did light up when swapped to the 12v position. It did not light up when I swapped them back to original positions. That’s when I last tried a new lighted switch from e trailer that they sourced for me
Now after all the messing around, the hot water is getting hit with either or both switches. However the 120v switch still is not lighting up when turned on. Since I have hit wster with it I’m going to just leave it for another day and get back to installing my new safe-T-plus stabilizer and get my Apple TV set up.. thank you to all of you for the help and guidance!!!!
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2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
HOWEVER….you have NOT tested the switches. Replacing a relay and not knowing if the switch works is only an exercise in futikity. Yes….coukd be the relay. BUT, you said younhad power out of the 120vac box. The relay is downstream. If the relay has a bad switch….it is NOT energized. Verify the power from the switch. You said there is NO POWER on the outlut side of one of the switches. We can’t help fix things until we know what is working or not. Fix the switch….get power to both the two lines…. If the switch with the bottom Gray has power…..and the center has voltage…it work.
but if there is power to the center terminal of the switchnwith GREEN….and when you turn it ON….you get no power. Switch is bad.
SIMPLE TEST. Swap the gray and green. Turn on the gas…..if you get how water then the 120 is working. If NOT….the problem is downstream.here is what you posted
Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams
the two white wires are jumped between the top terminals
yhe middle black wires are jumped tiger and tied to the water pump power switch
the green bottom terminal and the bottom grey wires go down the wall . The bottom grey shows 13 bolts when the 12v switch is on. That’s the only power I read with any terminal
Having thought it was just a burned out light bulb in the 120v switch and I still have hot water with the 12v gas switch I had swapped the switches with no difference in symptoms, no light on the switch, I then replaced the 120v switch that did not light up with a new switch from e-trailer and the symptoms remained the same as stated in the beginning. Have done that I figured it must be something else and asked here. I’m pretty sure the switch is not the problem here and is downstream
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13 hours ago, BradBak said:
I have the 2006 Monarch and just replaced the heating element it is activated by the 12-volt relay right next to the element. and that fixed my problem
👍
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5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
OK...back to basics. I'm trying to recap what you have posted. Lets start by getting the terminology correct. Your Switches are NOT wired up the same as in the Atwood Diagram. I have attached a PDF of the picture you took from the manual as well as the manual itself in case others want to chime in.
The poles on the switches are the terminals. Poles is defined as how many different ON/OFF circuits there are in a switch. You need the MONACO print for the water heater circuit. That is what you use.
ODDS ARE, you have three terminals on the switch. Without a picture of the switch, here is how it should be wired and how to test it. The CENTER Terminal (pole) has incoming 12 VDC Power. There should be ONE common 12 VDC Power wire going to a Center Terminal....then it is jumpered over to the other. This provides the Incoming power for the switch. The other two terminals are for the SWITCHED POWER going out to a device and the other one lights up the internal Pilot light.
Thus, I would expect to see FOUR wires (when you pull the switches out. One WIRE, to the center terminal is incoming 12 VDC power. The other wire is a GROUND. That provides the power for the internal Light. There will be TWO OTHER WIRES. One wire (which is the SWITCHED ON power for the GAS and the other is the Switched ON power for the Electric. There is NO 120 VAC Power on the switches. SOMETIMES the GROUND (on either end) will be a different color. SO, if the end terminal is COPPER on both and the center and the other end is SILVER....that means that the COPPER is the GROUND. The center receives the Power. The OTHER Silver is the outgoing power. Look at the Atwood Furnace Schematic. Notice the TWO upper switches. These are your DUAL switches. So, test the switches.
Label the wires on each switch when you pull or pop out the switches. They SNAP OUT...you do NOT need to pull the panel. Put a small piece of tape on the top of the switch when you pull it out. That will make sure that you orient it correctly when you reseat it. BOTH SWITCHES OFF. NOW, Use your VOM on volts. Put a lead on the center and one end....If you LOOK closely, you should be able to see different colors....or look on the side of the switch. Center to one pin. if that is 12 VDC, then you know that side or that end is the GROUND... Now, turn ON one switch. You should have power (from the GROUND terminal to the opposite side or the OUTGOING power. If BOTH switches WORK and both send out power, then the switches are OK....
If this is not clear....then go to this link. This is the type switch you have. IF the pilot light inside the switch is burned out, that may NOT be a sign that the switch doesn't WORK. You have to test the terminals and see if the switch turns ON and OFF or the LOAD side (see the various views) has power.
OK....NOW, follow along. Look at the Water Heater Page 3. When you say, you have POWER coming from the OUTLET....that means, and I guessed wrong and some others may have, that you have a TOTALLY SELFCONTAINED system. The AC line plugs into an outlet. The panel switches goes to the Water Heater. The INTERNAL 120 VAC Relay, which turns on the Heater Element is INSIDE the water heater. SO....if there is 12 VDC coming OUT of the ELECTRIC Switch (you test the center and the LOAD terminals, then the problem is INSIDE water heater. Again, looking at the Monaco Prints would have shown this.
HERE IS THE TEST...and MAYBE you have done that. IF you labeled EVERY WIRE on Both switch....and then swapped the switches....and STILL NO ELECTRIC....then there is an internal problem.
Hope this explains it. If you look at the Furnace Schematic....those are the TWO switches.....YES, your two Switches have THREE Terminals. SO, when the ON POWER OUT is going to the Water heater (either gal or electric), then the third wire on each switch is just the GROUND to light up the Pilot or ON light.
That's it. NOW, if you can get to the 12 VDC wiring on the Water heater....then you can test the terminals. If you have power between (12 VDC) Terminal WHT2 and GRN6....then you have the electric signal. Likewise, if you have power between OR1 and GRN6, you have the gas.
Hope this helps...
Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf 2.54 MB · 1 download 2004 Water Heater Page 23 Circuit.pdf 332.24 kB · 1 download Atwood Furnace Schematic.pdf 71.41 kB · 1 download
Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams
the two white wires are jumped between the top terminals
yhe middle black wires are jumped tiger and tied to the water pump power switch
the green bottom terminal and the bottom grey wires go down the wall . The bottom grey shows 13 bolts when the 12v switch is on. That’s the only power I read with any terminal
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5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
OK...back to basics. I'm trying to recap what you have posted. Lets start by getting the terminology correct. Your Switches are NOT wired up the same as in the Atwood Diagram. I have attached a PDF of the picture you took from the manual as well as the manual itself in case others want to chime in.
The poles on the switches are the terminals. Poles is defined as how many different ON/OFF circuits there are in a switch. You need the MONACO print for the water heater circuit. That is what you use.
ODDS ARE, you have three terminals on the switch. Without a picture of the switch, here is how it should be wired and how to test it. The CENTER Terminal (pole) has incoming 12 VDC Power. There should be ONE common 12 VDC Power wire going to a Center Terminal....then it is jumpered over to the other. This provides the Incoming power for the switch. The other two terminals are for the SWITCHED POWER going out to a device and the other one lights up the internal Pilot light.
Thus, I would expect to see FOUR wires (when you pull the switches out. One WIRE, to the center terminal is incoming 12 VDC power. The other wire is a GROUND. That provides the power for the internal Light. There will be TWO OTHER WIRES. One wire (which is the SWITCHED ON power for the GAS and the other is the Switched ON power for the Electric. There is NO 120 VAC Power on the switches. SOMETIMES the GROUND (on either end) will be a different color. SO, if the end terminal is COPPER on both and the center and the other end is SILVER....that means that the COPPER is the GROUND. The center receives the Power. The OTHER Silver is the outgoing power. Look at the Atwood Furnace Schematic. Notice the TWO upper switches. These are your DUAL switches. So, test the switches.
Label the wires on each switch when you pull or pop out the switches. They SNAP OUT...you do NOT need to pull the panel. Put a small piece of tape on the top of the switch when you pull it out. That will make sure that you orient it correctly when you reseat it. BOTH SWITCHES OFF. NOW, Use your VOM on volts. Put a lead on the center and one end....If you LOOK closely, you should be able to see different colors....or look on the side of the switch. Center to one pin. if that is 12 VDC, then you know that side or that end is the GROUND... Now, turn ON one switch. You should have power (from the GROUND terminal to the opposite side or the OUTGOING power. If BOTH switches WORK and both send out power, then the switches are OK....
If this is not clear....then go to this link. This is the type switch you have. IF the pilot light inside the switch is burned out, that may NOT be a sign that the switch doesn't WORK. You have to test the terminals and see if the switch turns ON and OFF or the LOAD side (see the various views) has power.
OK....NOW, follow along. Look at the Water Heater Page 3. When you say, you have POWER coming from the OUTLET....that means, and I guessed wrong and some others may have, that you have a TOTALLY SELFCONTAINED system. The AC line plugs into an outlet. The panel switches goes to the Water Heater. The INTERNAL 120 VAC Relay, which turns on the Heater Element is INSIDE the water heater. SO....if there is 12 VDC coming OUT of the ELECTRIC Switch (you test the center and the LOAD terminals, then the problem is INSIDE water heater. Again, looking at the Monaco Prints would have shown this.
HERE IS THE TEST...and MAYBE you have done that. IF you labeled EVERY WIRE on Both switch....and then swapped the switches....and STILL NO ELECTRIC....then there is an internal problem.
Hope this explains it. If you look at the Furnace Schematic....those are the TWO switches.....YES, your two Switches have THREE Terminals. SO, when the ON POWER OUT is going to the Water heater (either gal or electric), then the third wire on each switch is just the GROUND to light up the Pilot or ON light.
That's it. NOW, if you can get to the 12 VDC wiring on the Water heater....then you can test the terminals. If you have power between (12 VDC) Terminal WHT2 and GRN6....then you have the electric signal. Likewise, if you have power between OR1 and GRN6, you have the gas.
Hope this helps...
Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf 2.54 MB · 1 download 2004 Water Heater Page 23 Circuit.pdf 332.24 kB · 1 download Atwood Furnace Schematic.pdf 71.41 kB · 1 download
Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams
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2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
OK...back to basics. I'm trying to recap what you have posted. Lets start by getting the terminology correct. Your Switches are NOT wired up the same as in the Atwood Diagram. I have attached a PDF of the picture you took from the manual as well as the manual itself in case others want to chime in.
The poles on the switches are the terminals. Poles is defined as how many different ON/OFF circuits there are in a switch. You need the MONACO print for the water heater circuit. That is what you use.
ODDS ARE, you have three terminals on the switch. Without a picture of the switch, here is how it should be wired and how to test it. The CENTER Terminal (pole) has incoming 12 VDC Power. There should be ONE common 12 VDC Power wire going to a Center Terminal....then it is jumpered over to the other. This provides the Incoming power for the switch. The other two terminals are for the SWITCHED POWER going out to a device and the other one lights up the internal Pilot light.
Thus, I would expect to see FOUR wires (when you pull the switches out. One WIRE, to the center terminal is incoming 12 VDC power. The other wire is a GROUND. That provides the power for the internal Light. There will be TWO OTHER WIRES. One wire (which is the SWITCHED ON power for the GAS and the other is the Switched ON power for the Electric. There is NO 120 VAC Power on the switches. SOMETIMES the GROUND (on either end) will be a different color. SO, if the end terminal is COPPER on both and the center and the other end is SILVER....that means that the COPPER is the GROUND. The center receives the Power. The OTHER Silver is the outgoing power. Look at the Atwood Furnace Schematic. Notice the TWO upper switches. These are your DUAL switches. So, test the switches.
Label the wires on each switch when you pull or pop out the switches. They SNAP OUT...you do NOT need to pull the panel. Put a small piece of tape on the top of the switch when you pull it out. That will make sure that you orient it correctly when you reseat it. BOTH SWITCHES OFF. NOW, Use your VOM on volts. Put a lead on the center and one end....If you LOOK closely, you should be able to see different colors....or look on the side of the switch. Center to one pin. if that is 12 VDC, then you know that side or that end is the GROUND... Now, turn ON one switch. You should have power (from the GROUND terminal to the opposite side or the OUTGOING power. If BOTH switches WORK and both send out power, then the switches are OK....
If this is not clear....then go to this link. This is the type switch you have. IF the pilot light inside the switch is burned out, that may NOT be a sign that the switch doesn't WORK. You have to test the terminals and see if the switch turns ON and OFF or the LOAD side (see the various views) has power.
OK....NOW, follow along. Look at the Water Heater Page 3. When you say, you have POWER coming from the OUTLET....that means, and I guessed wrong and some others may have, that you have a TOTALLY SELFCONTAINED system. The AC line plugs into an outlet. The panel switches goes to the Water Heater. The INTERNAL 120 VAC Relay, which turns on the Heater Element is INSIDE the water heater. SO....if there is 12 VDC coming OUT of the ELECTRIC Switch (you test the center and the LOAD terminals, then the problem is INSIDE water heater. Again, looking at the Monaco Prints would have shown this.
HERE IS THE TEST...and MAYBE you have done that. IF you labeled EVERY WIRE on Both switch....and then swapped the switches....and STILL NO ELECTRIC....then there is an internal problem.
Hope this explains it. If you look at the Furnace Schematic....those are the TWO switches.....YES, your two Switches have THREE Terminals. SO, when the ON POWER OUT is going to the Water heater (either gal or electric), then the third wire on each switch is just the GROUND to light up the Pilot or ON light.
That's it. NOW, if you can get to the 12 VDC wiring on the Water heater....then you can test the terminals. If you have power between (12 VDC) Terminal WHT2 and GRN6....then you have the electric signal. Likewise, if you have power between OR1 and GRN6, you have the gas.
Hope this helps...
Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf 2.54 MB · 1 download 2004 Water Heater Page 23 Circuit.pdf 332.24 kB · 1 download Atwood Furnace Schematic.pdf 71.41 kB · 1 download
Yes, thank you, just what I needed. My two lighted switches have thee ‘terminals’ I originally swapped the switches when the 120v light stopped illuminating thinking it was just the switch lite that was bad since I still had hot water. When I swapped switches it was still the 120v switch that didn’t lite up. Swapped them back and tried the breaker and fuses, which are all good. Had installed a new lighted switch since I had one. There is a small possibility that I didn’t wire the switches back correctly and I did have a bad switch, so I need to make sure the wires are on the correct terminals before chasing my tail around however unlikely. If all is correct and still no electric function I’ll need to get at the water heater and test there
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3 hours ago, Bill R said:
@Irishman1 Looking at the manual diagram, there is a jumper between the two switches, so if the 12V switch is working, then you should also have 12V power to the 120V switch. Likely a bad switch as @Martinvz experienced.
Is there another switch besides the two on the panel? I switched the lighted switches first and then tried a new one to no joy..
Just now, Irishman1 said:Is there another switch besides the two on the panel? I switched the lighted switches first and then tried a new one to no joy..
I’ll take a picture of the back of the switches tomorrow. Show what it looks like in real life. There is a white jumper between the top two poles..the Atwood wiring diagram shows just two poles on the back of the switches but my two switches have three poles. I wonder if I mixed up the jumper at some point when I was trying a new switch and then put it back incorrectly jumped
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I’ll check that. Thanks!
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Here’s a pic of my panel. And a small water heater wiring diag. Not sure now that checking power to and from the switch is as straight forward as I think. The switch definitely doesn’t light up when turned on but switching the switch with a known hood one doesn’t work either so I’m confused for sure
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I just went out to the mh snd I unplugged the water heater from the single outlet under the sink next to it and I have power to the outlet, I will take the panel off tomorrow and recheck the leads to and from the switch that doesn’t light up. The other problem is that I can’t get to the water heater. It is in the cabinet under the counter besides the sink with no access besides the outside panel😢the Cabinet walls are solid on each side. I thought I could remove the sink and come down from the top but the double sink is off to the inside of the water heater. I’ll try to remove the drawers that might get me some access to the side with the power cord. But first I’ll recheck the panel wiring snd switches
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3 hours ago, Bill R said:
@Irishman1 How do you know you do not have power to the switch? Did you check with a VOM? If so, were you checking for 120V or 12V? As @Martinvz mentions, the 120V switch is most likely receiving 12V as the power source. My 12V and 120V water heater switches receive 12V power from the same wire. If your setup is the same, then if your 12V switch is working then that means you should also have 12V power to the 120V switch. Check for 12V coming out of the 120V switch when it is switched on, and check making sure it is going to a good ground.
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a grounding issue for the 120V relay behind the Water Heater. The ground for the relay was loose.
Do you have wiring diagrams of your coach? That should confirm that the 120V switch is powered by 12V. I know it is confusing that the panel says 120V, but that is the common nomenclature to indicate that the water heater will be powered by 120V, but the 120V switch is receiving 12V that when turned on it will engage the 120V relay for the water heater.
All the best.
Thanks, that makes sense, I’ll go out and recheck the power coming into the panel again because I don’t think I checked the 12v because the lighted switch illuminates when I turn it on and the gas heater comes on and I have hot water. I just checked the in and out lines to the switch as I originally thought it was just a burned out switch bulb. But the wster doesn’t get hot on just the 120v switch too. I’ll go out and pull the panel again to double check both switches and also take a picture of the panel too
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No EMS, my plain panel just has the tank monitoring levels, battery voltage for house and chassis, water pump switch, two slide buttons and the two lighted water heater power switches, 12v and 120v. I have a small breaker box in the bedroom which has a 12v. breaker for the water heater, which is ok( and I put a new breaker in it too) and a fuse panel which also has a blade fuse for the water heater, which I replaced. The 12v switch test power at the switch , lights up and the gas lights and the water heater gets hot. The 120v has no power in or out( I also replaced the lighted switch since the panel was out)doesn’t light up and doesn’t produce hot water. How it has no power at the switch but the breaker and fuse is good probably means there’s something between the switch and panel I would think,hmmmm
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58 minutes ago, Martinvz said:
I believe the switch is 12v working thru a relay on your Intellitec ems sitting behind the coverplate next to your 120v breaker switches. Is your Intellitec display on the same panel as your water heater switch. I have attached a picture of my coaches panel with the bottom item being the Intellitec display.
My Monaco is the monarch and does not have a intelligence system, just a switch for both gas or/and 120v from the panel
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I will but if I don’t have 120v at the switch on either side would I expect to have power at the heating element?
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Hi guys,, on my 2005 monarch 30pp I have a gas/electric water heater. It has two lighted switches on my main panel that light up when they are turned on. This summer the 120v lighted switch stopped lighting up when on and my water doesn’t heat on electric only. It does heat up on the 12 v gas switch. I don’t have power to the 120v switch on the back of the panel and all of the fuses/ breakers I could find are ok.. where do I go from here??
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Not sure if this is built this way or I have a little problem. At the top of my windshield above the rubber seal I have a gap that evenly goes across the the front above the seal, about an inch wide. You can see the fiberglass front shell there. Sometimes in the cold mornings where I might have some condensation on the glass I will have a drip or two from the center of the seal/glass pane joint. Is there supposed to be a gap here? Should I seal it? Thanks in advance
mike
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I just bought a needed white ‘snail’ Colorado end cap to replace my broken one on eBay for $70.00
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That’s kinda what I thought, thanks!
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I would like to hang a small deceptive electric fireplace on the back bedroom wall, which is the rear end wall of my motor or home. I saw a Monaco monarch like mine with one mounted on this wall. My question is how thick is the end cap from the interior wall?. The mount has 1 inch screw anchors. It obviously was done on the one I saw but I don’t want to drill through the outside shell.. thanks in advance
2005 Monaco monarch 30pdd
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On 1/9/2022 at 7:52 AM, Dalton07 said:
If you are worried about oxidizing in your RV like me, I will share with you how to remove oxidation from RV fiberglass. I recommend parking your motorcycle in a shaded area. Putting it in direct sunlight dries the polish and wax quickly, making it difficult to polish. Then wash it with a warm soapy solution. Apply a buffering compound to the fiberglass of your motorhome using an applicator. Spread the polish on a 2.5cm-sized portion and start polishing the backing. Take the yellow sponge and apply the polishing compound. Use the orbital polisher to spread the polish in small 22 inch square sections, combining up and down with right and left movements. Finally, waxing is an essential step for the complete restoration of RV fiberglass.
It’s painted aluminum
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
in General Motorhome Discussion
Posted
I like your fuel economy with your boat my 1965 chris craft got about 20 gallons an hour each engine, at seven knots, that was my sweet spot. Twin engine Oldsmobile 503’s. Now my Monaco monarch is getting about 10 miles per gallon. I’m happy with that.