BigNick

Thankyou so much thats fantastic, I will check that fuse, Im guessing by run bay you mean the area inside where the AC breakers are?

On 8/25/2023 at 3:26 PM, planodp said:

@Ivan K I found a old school machine shop in Sherman that custom  build just about anything kind of hose and fitting you want. Plus they also do engine work, engine block, crankshaft and head. They build my fitting for $55 buck. Thanks Ivan for the help!!!!

Hey there Plano, I'm in the Dallas area too. I just found my dash ac isn't blowing cold , I totally clueless as to how the system functions and pointers would be appreciated.

Refrigerator icemaker valve.

I guess I'll un subscribe from this one, it has strayed.

I run mine whether I need it or not. Berke and Carillo are the 2 best. Last thing I got for it was the control board, fixed it up. It was heavily corroded I guess from salt air. It's worked perfectly ever since, Carillo had the best price, Roger was about $50 higher on it. But, Roger's forums are the best even with the cost to get in,, imo.

1 hour ago, Rocketman3 said:

The cable is included - it is a 75 feet and it has special plugs on both ends. 
 

Thete is also a 150 foot available too. 

Understood, how do most folks get it into the coach?

On 6/16/2022 at 6:59 PM, Tom Wallis said:

It is very easy to unplug the dish form the mount it comes with. If you do a pole mount on the motorhome and buy an extra cable it should be fairly easy to move just the dish and router back and forth.

I wonder about the ladder mount, it seems the Starlink needs a 2.5" receptacle for its mount so I'm thinking I need an adapter for my ladder which is 1" and then a 2.5" pole. (maybe one that will fit in the useless sewer drain line stowage pipe.  Then I wonder about the cabling, which cable is needed? RG7 or what?

It was my kid that thought it was funny.  He's been talked to and is a good kid and smart.  I have his back no matter so whatever the mod does, thats up to him. .Sorry for the disruption.

Is there enough bw to pull down Netflix hbo max, Amazon  or other streaming services?

Huh!!! Interesting, why go with starlink vs a mobile booster? Sorry to be ignorant fellas, I'm trying to weigh out pro and cons.. 

5 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

What do you mean Nick?.... Is that statement untrue? Am I confused on the inverter/charger operation??  Please enlighten me.. publicly or privately.

Ken

An inverter is incapable of charging anything. It uses electricity coming FROM the batteries to power some circuits on the coach, it "inverts" the DC (direct current) voltage from the batteries into AC (alternating current) to power microwaves, refers, and outlets. I have a Xantrex Freedom 3012 unit on my coach, it has an inverter section and a battery charger section, and probably a few others in there that I don't know about yet. I wasn't trying to be a smart ass so please accept my apologies if I offended.

21 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

Bob,

How does switching on the inverter while driving (running the 'drive engine' only) work?  My 03 HR Endeavor inverter uses chassis battery power to create 120vac to run (for example) my all electric Frig.  I use my ML-ACR to 'join' the house and chassis batteries together while driving to keep the inverter from draining my house batteries by charging both from my alternator.

My inverter only charges my house batteries (and chassis batteries because of my ML-ACR) when I'm running my generator or connected to shore power.....otherwise the inverter only 'uses' battery power.

Ken

 

Oh boy, I knew that statement would draw a crowd.

This is the one I got. I haven't used it yet. Looks like 45-55 seems to be the preferred pressure. 

57 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

I have $29 Renator regulator from Amazon that still works fine. Liquid filled gauge, adjusted to 55psi. If it ever quits beyond just cleaning, not a big loss.

Watching this thread and also wondering what's a good pressure to keep it at.

Mine didn't have inverter power either and there's a residential in there, so I found the inverter receptacle in the basement, extended the power cord, snaked it down there and plugged it in there.

4 hours ago, wamcneil said:

Do you have an electrical bay underneath the driver's seat? That will have both chassis and house fuse panels. I have one bank of fuses labeled 'Domestic Hot' which bypasses the house battery switch and is always live.

Cheers,

Walter

I looked but didn't noodle around with a meter. That's next. It didn't look to promising.  See pics.

1 minute ago, wamcneil said:

Do you have an electrical bay underneath the driver's seat? That will have both chassis and house fuse panels. I have one bank of fuses labeled 'Domestic Hot' which bypasses the house battery switch and is always live.

Cheers,

Walter

Thanks Walter, there is an electrical bay there. I'll get in there and noodle around. So, Domestic Hot would live unswitched House Battery power and a good place for AGS to sense house battery condition. This is a perfect spot because the wire run is only a few more feet from the current location. I suspected there might be house power in there but just had a hard time believing it would have been run all the way up there. Thanks again. 

1 hour ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

Can you provide a link to the wireless AGS module?  Thank you.

https://www.cummins.com/generators/motorhome-and-rv/wireless-rv-auto-generator-start-system

Btw I did a fairly detailed install thread over at IRV2

I have thought of a different scenario and I want to present it to the group. I believe, but haven't proven the genset is starting from the chassis battery. I believe this because I was running the coach off the inverter the other day, (1rst time). Backstory on that is the refer could only run off shore power or generator, I wired it to an inverter receptacle in the basement and it runs great, now I can go down the road without running the genset and be confident the food is good. Anyway, as I ran the coach off the inverter I noticed the battery condition status on the AGS app didn't budge off full charge and my sense wire for house battery is connected to the genset start posts on the cabinet. This makes me believe these are chassis batteries because the Xantrex remote showed an almost complete discharged state for the house batteries. I started the gen normally from the start switch and recharged. The AGS didn't do its job in this scenario since I have it set to start the gen at 11.2. 

So, this brings me to the question. 

Where can I find a house battery sense location towards the front of the coach? 

Right now the closest place I can think of is where the batteries connect to the inverter/charger. Is there a location forward of this point so my wire run isn't so long?

2 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

Have someone start the generator while you measure the voltage with a volt meter at the battery bank. It should drop slightly on the bank that starts the generator. Hope this helps.

Ok , I'll do that. 

As you guys may remember I added the new Cummins wireless AGS system just before storing the coach in December.  I'm not sure I have the sense wires hooked up correctly. I wonder which battery the positive lead to the genset start circuit comes from?  It would seem logical to me to start the genset from the chassis batteries. 

In my mind, I think I want to monitor house batteries, and it has the capability to monitor both. I just need to know which one starts the genset.  So if I'm running off the inverter and it pulls the batteries down I can charge them.   Anyway,   If the answer is "depends" , what would be a good test to figure it out?

34 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

As the politicians say, “That’s a very good question “.

The default setting is 10.0 volts.  However, that doesn’t work for me.  I have an Aquahot, and it shuts down if the voltage drops below 12.0 volts.  Also, my generator uses the house batteries for starting and because of the length of the cable run from the batteries to the generator, it won’t start below 12.2 volts.  So, that’s where I have my LBCO set.  

As a side note, I will be installing an auxiliary battery up near the generator, just for starting the generator.  Then I will probably lower the LBCO.  As long as it’s summer and I’m not using the Aquahot, I can lower the LBCO below 12 volts.

 

Interesting,  I think I'm set at 12.2 now but I'll verify today. I'm not sure about the low voltage for genset start, my cable run is front to back as well. As far as hydrohot fire up, I've spent so much time and $ just getting that system back into shape, I've never experienced it not starting due to low volts yet, that's a new one I didn't realize even could happen. Thanks for the post, informative... 

10 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

Turn the inverter off at the remote panel.  Also, you can raise the low battery cut off (LBCO) to 12.2, that way the batteries won’t drain and they should hold the charge until you get it back from the shop.

Im going to muddy the water just a tad so sorry to hijack your thread in advance. What is a good value to set the LBCO to if the AGS is activated for example in a primitive camping scenario?  

I have a Xantrex Freedom 4k, in the remote mounted inside there a place in the menu to select the inverter off.  I don't know abut the Magnums. I would think it would be the same with a place to shut it down.

Mine has a fairly course screen to keep critters out but not dirt, I'm thinking of permanently mounting a washable filter element there. Lets the air in but not road filth.