1nolaguy

Smart TV's are great and now relatively cheap but functional as smart TVs only if you have a good WiFi source. Do not count on campground WiFi. If available it generally is only good for things like checking e-mail, reading, and maybe surfing the web. You will not, for the most part be able to stream (Prime, HuLu, Youtube, etc). So first, if you are going to invest in Smart TVs, I recommend you decide on your internet source. We use a cellular modem from MoFi but there are others as well on the market. Or you may opt for Starlink. Dish type satellite TV service is different, more like cable than Smart TV compatable (requires a separate box decoder). Cellular modeums generally require a dedicated SIMs card(s) from a cell provider. Check out Technomadia.com and there business website (forgot the name), It is a great source for everything internet related for the RV. In our 2005 Safari the TV in the front was useless because when the slides were in you could not see it and with the slides out it was in an uncomfortable place to watch. I installed our Mofi in a cabinet over the couch and next to it a 1080p projector, attached to a Roku streaming device, that projects to a pull down screen attached to the opposite slide header. This was cheaper, lighter, and did not require giving up seating on the sofa opposite or recliners. (yes we glamp not camp) if we were to install a televator and TV. In the bed room I replaced the not working plazma with a smart TV. Half the weight and much more energy efficient. Generally speaking as long as you can get about 5 Mb down and about 0.5 Mb up you can stream most TV and movies. as long as you stream at 720p or 1080p resolution. 4K is just too much banwidth. Hope this is helpful.

Jim, I actually have 3M HVB tape left over from another project. I usually use 90% isopropyl achohol but have read there is also a spray activator to increase hold of VHB but I have not been able to find any. DO you or any one in the groupe have experience with this activator?

Thanks Jack. For my application this sounds like the way to go. It will be after the holidays before I can do this but your solution sound like it will work well for me. I will post a follow up with some pics once the project is completed.

So you attached the angle to the fridge an then placed in the hole and attached to the frame?

We too have traditionally had large fridges at home (for 20 years we had doubles (a total of 32cf) bottom freezer set up that we loved. It took a year to get adjusted but we now have 14cf at home and now in the RV we replaced our Norcold 1200 with a Insignia 11.6 cf bottom freezer unit from Best Buy (under $500 delivered). We have taken it on one 4.5 week trip and it was great. Much more usable room than the Norcold, ice and ice cream freeze and keep just like home. Very efficient; we can easily drive for 4-6 hours with it on inverter power and still have plenty of battery power left. Except for the fit issues I am still working out we love it.

Jim, Ours is on a "shelf" over a furnace. I replaced the "shelf" which was made of particle board, with 3/4" plywood and had to replace some of the supports. It amazes me how they supported such heavy shelves with 3/4" X3/4" white wood stapled to luan walls. I ended up putting a brace made of 2x4 in front of the furnace to provide added support. The left side of the fridge (facing it) is against the 1x2 side trim but it is about 1-1/4" off the wall. On the right side there is about 9" of space that will be a future project (pantry). I mounted the fridge to the 3/4" ply "shelf" using 2 steel brackets screwed to the floor and fridge. While this stabilizes the fridge if you hit a bad spot of road a loaded fridge will tip out, tearing out the screws from the fridge. To install I had to remove the header (top trim) of the opening. I am going to replace this with a 2-1/4" piece of cherry. I am thinking of using a piece of aluminum flat bar to attach the to of the fridge to this trim. Any other suggestions about securing the fridge from the top and or back would be appreciated.

In image 5 there is a metal plate attached to the floor. Diduou have this fabricated? If so can you share the specs? Is this used to anchor thr fridge so I does not topple over? Am having this issue with my recent install.

Ben, I think you are spot on. I invested in a Garmin 890 and now find it a total waste of money. Even after installing the latest updates the maps and POI files are so out dated as to not cover major road changes and additions that are 4 or more years old and the POI don't even show camp grounds that have been built in the last several years, even those of major chains like Thousand Trails. I find I have to run Tripwizard and Google maps because Garmin is simply not dependable. Two weeks ago Google took me for 7.2 miles on a 4 lane road outside of San Antonio, TX that was at least 4 years old. Garmin showed me driving through fields. A bigger screen doesn't help when the data is outdated.

Thanks Bob, Good idea to check the out-flow point of the heater. I had already checked and cleaned the screens prior to writing the OP. The issue is intermittent so I suspect some heater calcification is causing blockage, either at the exit or in the line. I am still getting some hot water it just varies in flow rate and pressure so whatever is causing it must be moving around as this is occurring while we are stationary.

Placing a strong magnet over the round or square black element on the device (when power is not applied) you will hear a slight click. Hopefully that will reset the device. This is not guaranteed to work, but may. To test the refrigerator you can bypass this device. It works as a thermal breaker should the unit become too hot. Bypassing should allow you to test the fridge to make sure it still gets cold/freezes, works on electric & gas, etc. If the thermocouple device will not reset or stay reset this will at least allow you to test the unit itself before making any decisions about further repair or replacement.

David, good suggestion. I tested the wires grounding to the furnace body (metal housing) as I assumed it was grounded. I will run a ground wire direct from the chassis and test out each wire that way to see if any has 12v.

No need to Google. I/C= inverter/charger single unit.

Thanks John. Got love the engineers at Monaco. Always keeping things interesting.

I agree and plan to do so.

John, The fridge is not on a slide. It is mounted above a furnace. As I recall the original Norcold had the 4 12v lines connected to the circuit board (CB). Two may have been incoming current and the other two (small gauge) might have been 12v current from the CB to another connection down stream.

I am assuming these are the braided hoses that extend from the valve stem. Considering their age, if they are offering to reset these at their cost I would buy new hoses and ask them to use them instead of the originals. If they ask why you can always say "in case they OEM were damaged during the previous tire replacement. Just being cautious. Your labor cost is the greater cost here. Mine are 18 years old and I noticed one of the schraeder valve units occasionally leaking when the TPSM sensor is not seated. I will be replacing the tires in January and will replace the hoses at that time too.

Thanks Myron. To get to the back of my Atwood (where electric element and water lines are located) is a major undertaking as it is through the back closet and requires pulling out some built ins. We are leaving our current CS tomorrow and headed home for the holidays so I will wait until I get home and go after this. BTW - I flushed water from the HWH via the low point drain and flow at the faucets are improved though not full pressure. I am thinking you are right about a blockage or partial blockage, possibly at the discharge check valve. WILL KNOW FOR SURE BY NEXT WEEK. FYI - outside hot water flow also effected so possible restriction or blockage near the HWH likely.

When I took out the Norcold 1200 to install a 120v residential refrigerator there were two pairs of 12v DC wires (2- red and 2- white) that I disconnected and left in the rear of the cabinet. The wires must have shorted out as they show no voltage. I am guessing a fuse is blown. I also am guessing they are on a stand alone circuit as I can find no other 12v not working. I have looked in the House 12v panel and also in the chassis panel (bay below driver's seat in front road side but can not find a circuit labeled for this or a blown fuse. I have also checked all the 12v electric schematics I have down loaded and can not find a reference for the Fridge 12v. Any assistance would be appreciated as I want to use these lines if possible.

Not sure about your set up. I have 4-100 AHr LFP batteries and they are charged from my I/C ( Aims PICOGLF3K12050BY). I have had this set up for 3 years now with no real issues related to battery charging. Based on the settings I selected charge from the I/C cuts off at 95% SOC and cuts on at 10% SOC. I charge whenever connected to shore or on genny but you could easily add/substitute solar via a charge controller. A DC-DC charger would only be needed if you also wanted to charge from your alternator. LFP batteries like to be cycled verses held at a full charge. I usually run the inverter while driving to discharge the batteries and help with teh cycling as we spend most time at CG with full hook ups. YMMV

It seems lately it is either electric or plumbing issues. Everything was fine until a few days ago. Then the water pressure and flow on the hot water side dropped to a dribble. The cold water side is fine. We are on city water so I am assuming the issue is not between the the spigot and the rig. What makes it even more complexing is that initially it was intermittent, that is the water flow would be just a little and then fine. At first I thought it might be a faucet issue but the problem is seen now at all faucets. Any suggestions on where to look?

UPDATE: Thought I should send on my choice of solution for future reference: After consideration and evaluation I replaced the old pump with a new Shurflo 4008 Power Max that I bought from Amazon for $66 delivered. I also added a Shurflo inline pump pre-filter (255-313) for an extra $9. Frankly I do knot know why they do not just include this with the pump as a kit but that is a marketing thing. Replacing the pump solved the problem, however I should note that while the mounting screw holes matched my OEM pump for orientation the rubber pump mount on the new pump is twice as thick so you will need to use longer screws than those used in the OEM. The new mount is about 1/2' THICK. Also the unit itself is slightly bigger by about 1/2 to 5/8". As a result , while the inlet line could be attached fine the outlet line fell 5/8" height and my plumbing would not allow for the height difference. As a result I had to cut and replace the pex. This meant buying a pex tool (crimp), fitting and in doing so I also replaced the old fitting as the internal rubber gasket being 18 years old I figured might as well do it now. All in all it cost about $100 and a trip to the hardware or two but solved the problem and resulted in better flow rate and quieter pump noise. FYI- after removing the old pump I separated the pump housing from the motor. The pump diaphragm (3 chamber) had some build up that was not hard but a bit sticky. It was easily removed with dish soap. The diaphragm itself looked to be in good shape. I resealed with food grade silicone grease (which I also use for maintenance on other water/rubber seals) and re-assembled the unit. It now appears to work fine without leaking. In retrospect I probably should have done this before ordering a new pump and might have saved some money and time. Since I do not use the pump often it is likely the build up in the pump may have been biological from sitting with water unused. I will going forward exercise the pump regularly and especially include it when sanitizing the fresh water tank, which I will also do more frequently. I will keep the old pump as a back up. Thanks for everyone's input. Oh and BTW - Shurfol advised not to install a check valve at the discharge side of the pump on 4 and 5 diaphragm pumps as back pressure can cause damage or shortened pump life, especially at low flow rates.

I think this is the one I bought. Spray painted to white body with Rustoleum pait that was almost a dead match fro the RV prior to install. From the ground it looks like OEM. https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Exterior-Lighting-Replacement-Trailers/dp/B075JF5WJ1/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=QS5645KZUQQ4&keywords=rv%2Bporch%2Blight%2Bled&qid=1699589467&sprefix=rv%2Bpor%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Those are the same ones I bought except mine are black.

As a follow up to Phil Carrell's comment, if you have not recently changed your fuel filters when was the last time they were changed? Reduction in fuel because of fowled filters can cause these symptoms too.

Thanks, I will give that a try. We actually never use the map lights or should I say they have never worked. They just were not a high priority item. Will give this a try this weekend. Tom, thanks for the link. I did not see these when last I looked. They will really come in handy.