1nolaguy

I replaced our useless bat wing antenna several years ago with a King Omnipro multi-directional antenna. It works great and was a very easy project just using the same location and the same coax cable as the bat wing. install it and forget it. Although you still have to program your TV at every site to change setting to the available stations. Here is an amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/KING-OA1001-OmniPro-Portable-Omnidirectional/dp/B01N6X5FRQ/ref=asc_df_B01N6X5FRQ?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588513695&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589114760761&th=1 While the antenna works very well please note that you are still subject to location and line of site issues as would be the case with any OTA antenna. I do not find the difference in antenna height makes a difference.

I do not have an answer for your emmediate problem and hope you find the cause and get it corrected quickly. For the future, I suggest you invest in a Scan gauge-D. A few years ago I had a similar issue and it scared the hell out of me. I later bought the SG and installed it. Now if there is an issue the gauge gives me error codes (similar to the scan at a shop) that will help in diagnosing the issue and that with Google will at least provide some guidance as to how to fix.

It is possible the starter for the Gen pulls from the house and not the chassis batteries. Not saying that is the case, just a possibility. 85% of the issues with our 2005 seem to be electrical in nature. Last year I invested in a portable charger (https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-GT4000S-Fast-Charging-Portable-SuperSafe/dp/B0BF94WPW3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=2RYYVMSKNWVDC&keywords=gooloo+jump+starter+4000&qid=1689719176&sprefix=gooloo%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0) and I find it a great investment because of where I store.

Shore power will not charge our chassis batteries either. I use a 4 amp digital charger from HF to keep my chassis batteries topped off when I have hook up and a 25watt solar panel connected via a12v charge controller directly to the chassis batteries when in storage without shore power. This has worked well for 3 years and the cost was less than $75.

Welcome on board Trevor and Laura. Since this is not your first rodeo you know maintaining/upgrading and RV is always a matter of priorities. With regards to electric power, might I suggest you have the existing system checked out by a pro (NRVIA inspector) unless you did this prior to purchase. As you start upgrading it can be more cost effective to have the whole system analyzed so you only buy what you need. Batteries (especially LFP) can be expensive and it can be frustrating to buy new batteries and then find out you also need to replace your cables, charger and or inverter, etc. I learned this sort of the hard way.

Ditto

I did not realize this. Is there a way to clear message (and notifications for that matter) once you have read them?

Jeff M, welcome on board the RV train. As you may have realized by now every RV, even within the same design and sometimes even with in the same model and model year are different. In my case our 2005 Safari Cheetah is designed so there is no way to add a clear (straight or elbow) connection and take the slinky hose out the hole in the bay floor. In fact, I can not even close the bay door if the hose is attached, even without a clear extension. I have given in and use the clear elbow you show above and leave the door partly open at the bottom. That said, if you are new to this process I will offer a few following practices that work well for me. 1) I use a hose support (plastic or aluminum that sissor compact for storing) to keep most if not all of the slinky off the ground and tilted down hill from the RV to the sewer connection. 2) At the RV side I use the clear 90 you show above as the first connection from the RV sewer outlet to the hose. Although you may fine this gross it is the best way to insure the line is empty and the water clear before you start to disconnect the lines. This helps avoid really unpleasant accidents inside your wet bay. 3) where the slinky first attaches to the RV I decend directly from the clear elbow to the ground and then back up to the hose support that carries the hose elevated and down hill toward the sewer connection. I do this for two important reasons a) to support the hose and reduce tension when emptying the tanks and b) to create a "J" bend in the hose. This will hold water and prevent sewer gasses from backing up into you tanks and potentially your rig. 4) I keep both gray and black take valves closed except when emptying. This serves multiple purposes. It prevent sewer gasses and flies from going into your rig. It makes the tanks easier to flush clean. The one exception is if we are doing multiple loads of laundry in the RV or numerous people are showering back to back. Always keep the black tank closed until you are ready to dump and try to always have you grey tank at least 1/2 full when you dump. Also, after emptying the black tank add about 1/2 of fresh water to the tank before using the toilets. This will help keeping solids from sticking to the floor of the tank and drying out, much in the way you maintain some water in the toilet bowl. 5) Always dump the black tank first then then empty dump the grey. This will use the grey water to flush out the black water residue from the hose. A hack I use is after I empty the black tank I leave the black tank valve open, raise the slinky at the RV about a foot above above the discharge (this is between the "J" bend and the RV discharge) from the valves and open the grey valve briefly, then shut the grey valve and drop the slinky to normal position. What this does is essentially back flush the black tank with grey water. Water pressure will prevent that wash water from going back to the grey tank. I usually will do this twice each flush and then allow the balance of the grey water out emptying the tank and flushing the hose. This helps keep the black tank free of debris build up. Using this process I have never needed to use tank additives to mask or fight odors or break down solid build ups. In addition, before putting the RV in storage after each trip, I hose out the tanks from inside the RV with fresh water and leave a inch or so clean water in the tank so that is does not dry out while in storage. I would not do this in winter months in areas that freeze but maybe use some pink RV anti freeze that you use in your water system. 6) Also my practice, when changing locations, I go through the same process above then disconnect the slinky at the RV, and raise and walk the end of the hose back to the sewer connection before disconnecting there. This helps prevent and nasty spills. After emptying the hose and before disconnecting from the sewer connection I flush the hose with some fresh water to help clean the slinky out. I collapse the accordion to make it as compact as possible and connect the two ends to make a closed circle. I do not have a separate slinky storage on my rig so I keep the hose in a container in a closed bay. Follow the same process whether you have a sewer connection at you site or are using a dump station. Good habits can be your friend. For the many in this group that have been RV'ing for years this is may not be a valuable read but for the newbie it may help make what is likely the most unpleasant part of RVing less of an issue. Hope you find this helpful.

Thanks Gary. Can you post a pic or link for the replacement temp sensor? Tom, I will need to take some photos when back at the RV, which is stored in an adjoining state. I have a 5 button multiplex controller (that is not longer working) mounted on the bedroom wall common with the powder room. It is in a larger panel that also houses electrical monitoring systems and several switched. The controller or "brains" for each original A/C was zip tied in the plenum between the roof system and the ceiling grill. This will make more sense once I have pics to attach.

Great Idea! Where and how did you install the cardboard baffle?

I try to make sure the duct registers are pointed away from the ceiling unit but as many as there are it is not a sure thing.

Last year I changed out both non-working Penguin II A/C-HP with RecPro A/C-HP (Haughton 3800). The new RecPro have a simpler internal thermostat system controlled by a thermister attached to the evaporator coil of each unit. The two units share common ducting that run from the front to the back of the coach. When both units are on I noticed an issue with one or both cutting out or short cycling. When I switched the unit from A/C to the fan would come on and the ceiling mounted thermostat would show a temperature drop of 2-4 deg and then a gradual warm up at which point I can switch back to A/C and it works fine. If I just run one A/C it does not be an issue. I suspect that when running two units the air in the ducts coming from both units may be causing a early drop in temperature below the setting of the thermostat. Any suggestions or similar experiences?

OK. So when the Rec Pro were installed the "brain" of the Penguins were left in the plenum under the belief by the installing tech that they would continue to operate the furnaces; our rig has two, one on each side. To further complicate things each OEM A/C and Heater have separate temperature sensors ( one near the powder room and one in the bed room and a central 5 button control, that I believe has two RH-11 phone cords to bring data from the two ceiling units. The 5-button controller originally controlled the two A/Cs, two Heat Pumps and two furnaces. My guess is the systems were split to two zones , living and sleeping with an A/C-HP, Furnace for each zone. I do not know if the controller get 12V from the ceiling "brains" or separately from a different source. I need to go back and pull this off the wall to see. I know I can spend hours tracing this all out. If anyone has a diagram for the wiring of this Cluster* I would appreciate you sharing it.

Michael, I am very interested in your project on several levels. I have a 2005 Safari Cheetah w/ 12/3000 AIMS and two years ago I had the OEM Penguin II A/Cs replaced with RecPro 3800s. I have been thinking of changing one (the one in the bedroom) to the I/C so I can use it when boondocking. Unlike you, we spend a lot of time in the south so A/C is a need not a desire. Would you mind sharing or PMing me with details about how you rerouted the electric. Also, you note that your furnace still runs runs on the thermostat. Since installing the RecPros (Haughton) A/C-Heat Pumps I get no power to the therm and the furnaces do not work. What do I need to do with the wiring to get the furnaces working again? We rarely use them but wen the outside temps drop below 40 the HP struggle.

Wow Gary, your floor plan sounds like mine (Cheetah 40dst). What model did you end up going with?

First rule of owning an RV, things will most likely break or stop working on a holiday weekend or a Sunday. Just saying.....

Ditto Dr4Film's suggestion. Unless you have so plan to use the old fridge elsewhere it will be much easier to cut the old fridge in 1/2 with a recep-saw and take it out in two prices than take apart the opposite wall and try to rebuild it. NOTE: make sure your replacement fridge will fit in the "hall" and install in the space, and that the doors will open once installed with out hitting the opposite wall. I just went through this exercise in out 2005 Safari Cheetah when our Norcold 1200 died. Because of aour floor plan I need a fridge with 52" max with the doors open at 90 deg,. which limits the width on a single or double door unit to 26". French door and side by side units would be preferable but height becomes an issue as I am limited to 64" I have to rebuild the floor. It turns out I am limited to only two choices unless I want to do some serious carpentry. ALSO: to save your floor, put the fridge on blocks before cutting so you will have access to the bottom as well as the sides and top.

Thanks. Will give that a try. BTW - can that mix be saved in a plastic bottle of will it disolve the plastic?

ATF?

Thanks Richard. Will give that a try. Soaked with PB Blaster for about 8 hr and tried heat but still won;t budge. Will look for a bolt later today or tomorrow. BTW- found it weird that it is a 14mm head on the bolt. would have thought it to be std. Do you know if the bolt is metric? That would help narrow the search.

In my case the bases are plastic. Are they to be re-chromed? Thanks, will do.

I will try PB Blaster overnight and if that does not work I do not have a torch but do have a heat gun so I'll try that. FYI the problem is at the base plate that mounts to the coach body. This is actually a poor design, IMO, as there is no water shield and the fitting forms a well to collect water between two metal surfaces. That invites corrosion. Also, out of curiosity, is the yellow reflector on the arm just a reflector or a light that should react to the turn signal activation? If the latter, neither side appears to work.

Here is a pic of the mirror in profile. not sure the brand but only see two allen screws at the other end to hold the mirror in position.

I am not sure if ya'll quit following this discussion or if my post above got missed but since the issue still exists and I could use some help in figuring this out I am re-posting my question. .... I replaced the thermostats and CB an now the HWH (Atwood) appears to have electricity. The LP side fired up but after about 3 or 4 sec the gas pressure drops and blue flame changes to a sooty yellow flame. I turned in on and off several times and each time it did the same thing: clicking sound followed by woosh and ignition followed by hi gas pressure and blue flame for about 3 seconds and then drop to low pressure and yellow sooty flame. Based on your experience is this a HWH gas solenoid issue (do they need to be replaced) or something else? I do have electrical continuity across both solenoids Also, The new thermostats do not fit under the three metal tabs so are being held in place by the black foam pad. I plan to replace with another brand (any recommendations?) but is this safe to use temporarily?

Chris, I do not know if I should direct this question to you or Dave. I have mirrors that are just starting to show blisters in the plating. I do not know if it makes a difference whether you deal with re-plating now or when the issue becomes more obvious. What is a bigger issue is not being able to remove the mirror arm from the coach. The arm, which sits in a socket that is attached to the front cap with lags. The lags are starting to back out or wallow out the wood, This I can fix as I had to do so on the passenger side. The problem is that even when I remove the bolt that holds the mirror arm on the socket I can not remove the arm or move it. THe arm will not budge, even when I "coax" it with a rubber mallet. How do I safely remove the mirror arm from the socket?