1nolaguy

BradHend, yep it was on my list for about 2 years but when the faucet quit working it got prioritized.

BTW- If you have to replace a plug you may have difficulty putting in the new one. Most plugs are straight and any buildup in the threads my prevent screwing in the new plug. My solution was to get a 1/2" pipe nipple and some oil. Oiling the nipples threads I put the nipple in and out using it like a die. After a couple of passes I remove the nipple, clean the aluminum threads of oil, use a little teflon tape and installed the plug. Easy peasy.

This week had many scheduled projects but so far I spent most of my time working on the Hot water heater. That is almost finished but also managed to replace the kitchen faucet. The OEM faucet stopped working and I could not find a replacement cartridge. Ended up getting a updated replacement from Lowe's and installing it. The project was straight forward and the new faucet came with everything needed for install except a screwdriver. The challenge was removal and installation. I think this project was better suited for a skiny little person as the faucet connections are behind the sink and only accessible through the sink cabinet and the adjoining heater return. The project ended up taking about 4 hrs as I had to work "blind" to what I was doing. Finished install looks great and DW is happy. Now if I can just get the rest of the projects finished.

Well this is a follow up although I am not sure if it should be moved to LP section of the forum. I replaced the thermostats and CB an now the HWH appears to have electricity. The LP side fired up but after about 30 sec the blue flame changes to a sooty yellow flame with reduced gas flow. I turned in on and off several times and each time it did the same thing: clicking sound followed by woosh and ignition followed by hi gas pressure and blue flame for about 3 seconds and then drop to low pressure and yellow sooty flame. Based on your experience is this a solenoid issue (needs to be replaced) or something else? Also, The new thermostats do not fit under the three metal tabs so are being held in place by the black foam pad. I plan to replace with another brand (any recommendations?) but is this safe to use temporarily?

For those who may experience the issue of a broken Attwood WH plastic plug, after trying several approaches I fount the Orbit Riser Extractor (I bought mine locally at HD) https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Sprinkler-Plastic-Extractor-26076/dp/B000I1RQZ8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1LXE9RFLWZHJ4&keywords=orbit+nipple+extractor&qid=1687480225&sprefix=orbit+nipple+extractor%2Caps%2C286&sr=8-3. <ade quick work of removing the broken plug. The down side is I thought the plug was a standard 3/4" plug but neither a nylon or brass one will fit. Apparently it is an Atwood 91827 1/2" drain plug although it seems bigger than that. Tomorrow is another trip to the hardware store. Hopefully they will have one to fit.

Well I had to pull the burner and cb to get at the broken plug. Looks Luke it is going to have to come out in phases. While the cb was out it appears to be burnt in two connections. Is there a way to test before ordering a replacement?

Yep Tom, I am concerned about galvanic corrosion because I am in the coastal LA and the air is salty. PVC is not rated for hot water and CPVC was not available in the size I need. Will try to get the remaining plug out as you suggested; and yes it's Hollow.

Well this is a little delayed but the thermostats finally arrived. I went to install but before I pulled the originals I did a continuity test and both showed continuity as well as the 2A fuse on the circuit bd. The connections looked a bit oxidized so I cleaned them and coated with no-ox before reinstalling. I was planning to test the electric connection once more before replacing the ECO and Therm when I accidentally hit the nylon plug in the tank and it broke off soaking me with water. Sooooo Now I have a different issue I would appreciate ya'lls help with. 1) Half the nylon plug threads are still in the tank. Is there a preferred way to remove this without damaging the aluminum threads in the tank? 2) The local hardware store did not have a replacement nylon plug but did have a brass one. I know brass and aluminum can have issues but am I OK using the brass with Teflon tape temporarily until I can get a nylon replacement? 3) If the thermostats show continuity are they good or it more of a resistance issue (ohms?) than continuity? Should I go ahead and replace them since I have new ones or just save the new ones for future need? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Are you refering to the switch that is in the coach or the switch that is part of the fixture in the basement? I had a switch on the fixture go bad and in the end it was faster and easier to just replace the fixture with a new LED version.

Thanks. I think I am going to still plan to replace the fridge long term but this is certainly worth trying as a short term solution.

Tom Cherry, Thanks for your detailed post above (as a moderator). If your Norcold is still under warranty it may make sense to "fix it". Our unit is 18+ years old being OEM in our 2005 Cheetah. Even if I replaced the cooling unit with an Amish conversion I still have an 18 year old fridge, just with an expensive cooling unit. I started out saying I was looking ar a 12v version but when last I looked at Everchill 16 cf 4 door model it was about $1400. Now that same unit is around $2400. It no longer makes sense. I was looking at either the RF18 or a 16 cf 4 door model by Haeir (looks like Everchill but is 120v). It is available through Lowes and HD for $1000+. That unit , with a height of 71" would require significant carpentry but I was about ready to do it. Denis McDonaugh and Rika52 mentioned the Frigidare model (also available through HD & L @ about $600). It will go in the existing hole with only modification carpentry to close off the hole. Although it is 2-4cf smaller I think that will work for us. Note, we also have a 12v/120v portable chest fridge/freezer that we use for drinks and overflow so a 14ft will suit us fine. You did comment about insulation removable and sealing roof vent and back vent. Is there insulation in the side walls? This really serves no purpose in our floor plan as both left and right walls remain inside conditioned air space. Insulation on the outside wall does make sense to me although I will likely replace FG with foil face foam board as we are in the south and the outside wall can get well over 120 degF in the summer. I understand closing the exterior vents as long as there is enough air circulation around the box to allow heat exchange. Lastly, you mentioned double tape system. I am a bit confused by this. I was planning to use screws and strapping/ L-brackets to secure the fridge to the floor/ceiling. Is there a better double stick tape systems that is better practice? Thanks K9. Yep that is what I was thinking. My calc was they same as your based on 100% run time but reality is closer to 50% of that. I plan to add a 400 Amp 12 server rack battery (LLG4), which should give us more than enough. I may also add some solar if needed. As noted we are generally on shore power when not in transit but having spent a few days on the side of the road waiting for a tow and occational knights at Harvest Host, Walmart and Cracker Barrel I want some buffer should I need it.

How many AHr or battery do you have? We currently have 200 AHr (12v) of LiFePO4 but I am thinking of adding another 400 AHr if I add a AC residential fridge. Since the Fridgidare was posted above I am thinking of going that route as oppose to the RF18. It is only 14cf but will fit in the existing hole with no modifications needed except to close down the opening (broom closet a bonus). By my calculation I can run about a minimum of 6 hours with current batteries if I do not run anything else. Since we are not full time and usually stay with hook ups I think 600 AHr will give us a full 24 hrs between needing to run the gen.

Thanks for the pic. It really helps visualize how it fits.

Thanks Denis. It appears your model may have been replace by the Frigidaire FFHT1425VV which is shown are 13.9 cf. The dimensions are Height (in): 60 1/2" Width (in): 27 5/8" Depth (in): 29 3/8" So it will sit a bit out from the wall. I will need to check if I have room to open the doors as our fridge is located in a "hall" that is fixed width and not on a slide. If it fits this seems like a good alternative.

I had a similar problem last year and after spending days trhing to decipher the problem I discovered that the slide motor and been unplugged. In our case the motor electric leads are connected to the power source via a plastic slip connection located in the ceiling of one of the basement bays below the slide near a light. When putting away a folding chair in the basement I apparently hit the plastic wire connection and unplugged it. Might be worth a quick check. In my case it was the front passenger slide and the connection was located in the first basement bay next to the LP bay.

K9 Exec thanks. I believe you and Dr4Film have me convinced. Now I need to convince my wife. I did the "dollar bill" test around the doors and although there is a little resistance it is not consistant. As you noted Norcold does not sell replacement gaskets so they need to be custom made or you buy new doors. I will check when next at the RV the temps with a non-contact Thermometer and advise. I have been hesitant in the replacements as the hole is likely going to require serious modification. I have no issue with taking out the 1X4 but I am also going to have to drop the floor and below the fridge is the return for one of the heaters. That is my concern. Has anyone else here had to deal with this and if so what did you find as the best approach?

Rocketman3, you removed screws from the base plate and covered holes with dicor? How heavy was the Traveller to remove from the roof?

Thanks IVAN K. I did not realize the turret would separate from the base. I guess you just remove the 8+nuts/bolts at the perimeter. SG47619, my wires also go out front and through the roof cap above the windshield. In our case the entry point is covered with a mountain of sealant so I am not sure how big the actual hole through the roof is, I am guessing the various cables can be cut off or pushed back through the hole and then the hole sealed with metal or bondo etc.

before anyone replies, I did a quick check on line and 12v refrigerators and for upright units (10-16 cf) the prices have doubled since last year in which case it may justify buying more batteries and use our inverter to run 110v unit.

Our 18 year old Nevercold is not working. I know the refrigerator door gaskets need replacement but also , while the freezer gets cold the fins in the refrigerator does not. Since the freezer (both sides) will freeze with temperatures dropping even after about 1 Hr the chilling portion (back furnace and ammonia re-circulation) seems to work fine the problem is something else. This unit is the original in our 2005 Safari so I do not want to spend a bunch on trying to put it back in service. If repair is going to cost more than $200-300 I would rather put that toward a new unit. If replacing it will likely be a 12v system. Thought about standard residential but the lack of efficiency vs 12v is leading me that direction if I go new. ANy help diagnosing this would be helpful.

Following: We to have a Travlr dish that came with our 2005 Safari Cheetah. We do not have Direct and no desire to get it. Current technology allows us to stream or we watch from a CD collection. I have thought about removing the dish to free up real estate and possibly improve aerodynamics but have been fearful of uncovering a large hole and not knowing how to repair it. Would also be grateful for guidance.

Gorilla Tape or possibly Flex Seal Tape will work temporarily but where that tare is it is probably time to look at replacing the awning. If you are in the Florida area Talin RV does a great job. They can also fabricate a replacement and send it to you if you are DIY inclined. That was my plan but then I had them do the install and was glad I did. For you temporary repair try to tape from the bottom and the top.

Wow MJStinger! Thanks for all the details and photos. In this and you OP you mention 3M Promoter. I've never heard of that but will look for it. Hopefully it will help when I redo the ceiling lights are half of the LED strips have come down. Not sure what Crocodile Cloth is but assume it is similar to emery cloth.

This looks great. I need to replace my step light already and was not sure how to go. I look forward to additional posts with more details.