Georgia Mike

Wish they had the outside vent in chrome like my dryer vent instead of black or white.

5 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Bottom line, if you are traveling in very cold weather conditions, use ATF and not AW46 as your hydraulic fluid.

Thanks for all the information from everyone. I’m going to change to ATF when I get back because we do and have traveled in some areas where I started up in the morning in the 20’s and I’m also not worried about mixing the two anymore. 

On 2/10/2024 at 2:45 PM, Ivan K said:

If your hydraulic tank looks like this, you would need 10 gal of Transynd to replace

Ivan, yes my tank is just like yours it huge so changing fluid is going to be expensive. Frank, yes I believe you are correct in that I have the AW46 fluid. When I pulled a sample and compared it to ATF it’s a lot lighter in color. I think ATF has been added over the years to top off. Glad to know it’s ok to mix the two. As others have suggested I’m just going to wait and change the fluid when I get back from my trip. Thanks for all the replies. 

Thanks, I have read a lot of information on the site about the topic and I definitely would like to drain and refill but I’m getting ready to go on a trip and just wanted to change the filter right now and was just wondering if I could mix the fluids. It says in the manual this hydraulic tank holds 35 quarts…almost 9 gallons gezzz that’s a lot. I would like to put Transynd in but going to be pricey and even putting regular transmission fluid won’t be cheap either.

I am in the midst of changing my hydraulic filter. Above the hydraulic tank there is a sticker that says Use Texaco Ursa 15w40. When I pull a sample it’s definitely not super red like atf but I think atf has been added. The reason I why I think that is because when I purchased it two years ago there was a gallon jug half full of Dexron three in rear bay and being since I have Transynd in the transmission I don’t know why else it would be on board. I like to prefill my filters so is it ok to mix atf with this oil. At this point I’m not sure if it’s oil or aw46 in there. 

5 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

suspect this plug could be disassembled and used to replace the plug portion of your existing dipstick.

That’s so funny I ordered that same one just a different size from Amazon along with the ones Ivan posted. It actually measures 1 1/4. I want to have some options in case one fits better. I don’t want to have that mess again,  Thanks

Well, I got the drawer out and I figured out why it was stuck. It was my own doing 😫 Traveling up to North Carolina for Christmas I felt a cold draft coming in from the dash so I bought some black expanding foam and found all the voids up under the dash in the generator compartment and filled them up. Well, some of the foam made its way through and got to the bottom of the drawer. I guess that stuff is a strong adhesive as well. I used a small crowbar to pry the drawer out and didn’t do any damage thank God. It took a lot of force. Just goes to show you when something strange like this happens you really need to think about everything you did in that area.

Thanks Ivan, I was trying to find the exact one but I’m going to go with your line of thinking. 

I am posting this not really expecting some miracle answer I’m just frustrated. The drawer in front of the copilot’s seat is stuck shut. My wife uses the drawer to keep odds and ends in and it has always worked smoothly. We got back from a trip just after Christmas and It was emptied out except a pen and magic marker I know this because I emptied it. A week or so later I was working on something and needed to mark something and remembered the magic marker so I went to open the door and it’s like welded shut. I have tried everything to pry it open without destroying it. It’s like someone put JB weld on the draw slides and shut it. I can’t even begin to understand how this could have happened. I have taken a rubber mallet and hit it from all sides and tried to pry it open till it almost cracks the wood. It has granite type lid inside but nothing could have caused it to stay up. Granted it’s not a huge problem and we can live without it but it’s bugging the *%$# out of me. 

I changed my oil yesterday and the oil dipstick rubber grommet just won’t expand enough to tighten up. I have looked online and found the entire dipstick for over $100 but can’t find just the grommet. Others have posted that they changed the grommet but didn’t give the source. If anyone knows where to find it please let me know. I found this on Amazon but I don’t think it will fit.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-65113-Dipstick-Grommet/dp/B000COBBNE/ref=sr_1_4?crid=MIOETZBUFXN&keywords=Cummins+oil+dip+stick+grommet&qid=1707104309&sprefix=cummins+oil+dip+stick+grommet+%2Caps%2C404&sr=8-4

2 hours ago, Rob Monda said:

Waiting for them to arrive but I believe the service will solve the issue. I haven't serviced in 2 years. 

Very good chance it will. When the nozzle gets clogged instead of shooting a fine mist like it should it just puts out a stream of diesel that won’t ignite. Hopefully it will fix your problem.

I had a 7.5 Onan in my old motorhome and now the 10K and they both are about the same noise to me. they are both pretty quiet.

On 1/22/2024 at 8:49 AM, Tom Cherry said:

The ones used in the 2006 units were known to fail

I have an 06 Dynasty and have the Surge Guard 40250. There is a newer model 40250RVC. I can find in the specs of mine that it will shut down if the voltage is under 102 or over 132 but I don’t see any reference of surge protection built in as the RVC model does. I have a built in Huges Autoformer  that does have surge protection so I feel that I am protected from spikes. Does the 2006 era Surge Gaurd have a high failure rate? So far mine has been ok and I pull the cover off once a year and tighten the connections.

The clock spring is an expensive part for sure. I was having issues with my wipers at first then it affected the cruise control. You can check the clock spring by getting access to both ends, if I remember it was 4 conductors. Use an ohm meter and check continuity on each wire while turning the clock spring. If you get any moment on your meter then it’s bad. It might fluctuate a few ohm’s but if it has big swings in readings it’s bad. I had one wire open and one going bad so I replaced it and all is good now. 

I have to look but I think there is 3 on my Dynasty so minimum 3 for me

I would be interested in getting some Dynasty emblems so maybe if enough people chime in we can get some made again.
 

44 minutes ago, Rob Monda said:

More good advice. Thanks I will check later today

I just rechecked my post from a two years ago and want to clarify that I fixed the rear monitor by changing the source with a Kenwood remote that came with the Motorhome. Apparently the bedroom monitor is made by Kenwood. I thought there were buttons on the monitor to change the source but maybe not. You should have that little remote somewhere. 

Rob, when I first purchased my Dynasty the rear bedroom screen did the same thing as yours. I thought it was defective because the front one worked ok. Mine ended being that the rear screen was on the wrong source. Mine has buttons on the front of the screen and one of them changes the source. You might have inadvertently hit a button when getting out of bed or something. I could Be that one of the rca plugs in the dash came loose on the Aladdin box but I would check the screen first.

47 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

we are very happy with so no plans to switch.

I am right with you on that statement. I liked the old faucets but we were shopping at Costco and there was some bathroom faucets on sale so the DW says “those faucets are so low in the sinks I would like them to be higher up and I like these” so there ya go. What ever you do don’t show your wife this post she may want them. 😄

This Moen faucet is the biggest PITA I ever delt with getting off. After finding out about the Allen screw in the center I thought I was home free but no another obstacle. After removing the center spout the handles should just drop down but there is a washer that keeps it from going through. There’s slight ridge the keeps the washer on. I thought WTF how did they get this thing on. I was getting very frustrated as you can see in the video but after looking at it very carefully I noticed the little ridge didn’t go all the way around……ahhhhh snap ring. No one mentioned there’s a tiny thin hard to notice with all the old gunk snap ring on there. So hopefully if someone needs to remove these this will help get the darn thing off. Now my second faucet replacement will go much easier (I hope) 

23 hours ago, RorySamuels said:

Georgia Mike, can you tell me what size screws you used?  Were they self-drilling? Are the screws just fastening to the aluminum sheets of the roof?

My roof is not aluminum it’s a fiberglass roof so I didn’t use self drilling. I used 1 1/4 #8 stainless screws with 1 inch stainless washers with the SB 140. The SB140 will work work with all kinds of materials including metal or aluminum just make sure you put plenty on so when you install your screws it squeezes out the sides all the way around the outside perimeter and then cover the screws liberally with SB 140. I’m sure you could also do what Frank did and use rivets and Eternabond and it would work ok but I prefer the SB 140.

I know when I replaced my skylight on my Dynasty you couldn’t use Dicor to install it. It has chemicals in it that causes the skylight to crack prematurely. I had to use Surebond SB 140 to seal it. It is specifically made for skylights. I used stainless steel screws and 1 inch stainless washers to distribute the pressure so I wouldn’t crack the skylight when screwing them down then sealed the screw tops with SB140

18 hours ago, Bill R said:

Mike I thought you determined from reading your manual (I read the same thing too in your manual) that for your coach the ATC light stays on continuously with key on.

Bill, I know that’s what it says but I’m not 100% sure it’s correct. Every other year says the the light is off when driving plus when I switch on the ATC switch the light just remains steady. I’m not sure I left it on very long (maybe 10-15 seconds) so I might have to redo that test and leave it on longer. As I stated before my abs light seems to be working correctly although I have had it come on a few times while driving but when I get to the destination the next time I start it’s back to normal. The abs light always comes on for a few seconds at startup like I said previously so that is the normal abs test.

7 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Let me know if you want to try and set that up.

Thanks Scotty, that would be great. I will PM you.

Another vote for NSA. I have had the NSA RB-4000 tow hitch with Roadmaster Sterling tow bar for over 10 years on two vehicles and it has worked flawlessly. I just got a rebuild kit last year and now it’s like new again. Takes me less than 5 min to hook up the Explorer. I would highly recommend it to anyone.