Marine Boy

6 hours ago, Jim McFarland said:

Good Sam insurance is to my knowledge National General Insurance and not owned by Camping World.  I've been wrong before however.

 

Yes, Good Sam is owned by National General!

16 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

Just speculation here... What about placing a new 40350 or equivalent upstream from the existing 40250, internally jumping shore input on the 40250 contactor directly to the 40250 output bypassing the internal contactor.  Wouldn't the existing logic board in the 40250 be able to display the now always "shore" input on the Aladdin as before? When the new upstream ATS switched to generator the old 40250 would still show it as "shore" but you could read the amps/volts on the Aladdin.  Effectively the old 40250 provides the Aladdin interface but NO protection at all as the contractor would be by-passed.  Just speculation.

BTW my 40250 always reads the voltage on leg 2 as 2-3 volts higher than reality and Southside could not find a way to recalibrate the actual logic board my unit had (which was a different layout/design/revision level from what they thought it should have had.)

I believe that if your the inductive coils and control board are ok in the 40250, your idea would work.  I have bypassed the the Shore Power contactor in my 40250 and disconnected the generator circuit and we are functioning on Shore Power with all data coming out of the 40250 for volts and amps.  I have found an Eaton contactor that I believe is replacement for the old contactor.  Once I return home from my trip, I plan to replace the contactor and with luck with be fully functional with only about a $100 parts expense.   I will update everyone with how it goes once complete, probably late October.

Thanks for all of the input and ideas!

Best, John

1 hour ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

Can you not just replace same contactors, rather than another brand?

Not made any longer.

13 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

His Surge Guard IS the transfer switch so if he bypass it to use shore power, it won't be switching to genny.

Yes, Ivan you are correct the Surge Guard is 40250 is just a transfer Switch.

I have a Surge Guard 40250 and the main/shore power contactor just went bad while I am traveling.  Has anyone replaced the Cutler-Hammer C65FNF360 contactor with an Eaton replacement?   Or should I bypass it for the rest of my trip and replace the 40250 completely?  I can make the rest of the trip without the Generator during a bypass.

Here is what I have used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086P36KB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

33 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Anything above 2700 is considered engine abuse and the engine ECM is programmed not to exceed it.  The engine ECM won't let the transmission downshift if the engine would exceed 2,700 RPM.

I've checked my engine report and my max engine RPM since birth was 2,648 RPM. 

In order to achieve effective engine braking the road speed must be low enough for the transmission to downshift and NOT exceed 2,700 engine RPM.  Depending on grade and road speed, you might need to slow down enough for the engine brake to be effective.  If your speed is below say 40 MPH, you should absolutely feel a difference between high and low Jake.  If you don't, then high Jake might not be working.

Thanks Everyone.  I think I have an issue.  On 5-7% grades, starting below 40mph, I have to keep using my vehicle brakes to keep for going above 2500rpm.  I will get another test tomorrow starting in Salt Lake City finishing in Moab, UT.

I have a 2006 Dynasty 42 with an ISL400.  I have the engine brake with a hi/low setting.  I am out west for the first time and always thought it was working correctly, but now doing grades over 5% I am not sure.  I don't seem to see a big difference if any when going from low to hi...  Going down a big grade the trans will downshift to the point where my RPM gets to hit 2500rpm, and at that point I use my service brakes....   How much difference should I see when switching to hi on the engine break and is there anyway to verify it is working?

1 minute ago, Georgia Mike said:

Thanks John, I shut everything down and disconnected the BlueFire dongle and it’s still doing the same thing. When I was setting it up I picked the J1939 bus since I have a 2006 and I was trying to see if it could read the air pressure on the app but it wouldn’t so I also enabled the J1708 bus. It said to do that to see if you get more data but it still didn’t pick up any new information so I put it back on the J1939 bus. I don’t know if even the BlueFire has anything to do with it but it does seem strange it started doing this right after. If it is the BlueFire I’m not sure of another way to reset the ecm. Like I said I disconnected the chassis battery cables and let it sit about an hour no joy

I have a 2006 Dynasty with an ISL400 and my settings use the J1708 bus. I tried J1939 and lost some data points.  I have ACTIA guages which one failed and they were able to rebuild it.  I would contact ACTIA for assistance.   Call David Lindenlaub 574-266-2610 at ACTIA.  He helped me.  

Just an FYI - I finally gave up on BlueFire as it caused issues with my engine data buss.  I would remove if and power everything down and back up, to see if it makes any difference.

It is a circuit breaker/fuse.  Probably thermal and auto reset.

If you have a fiberglass roof, you don't use the antenna and/or think you will ever use the hole for some other purpose, fix it the permanent way.   You can get a fiberglass repair kit with either polyester or epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth.  Go on youtube and there are plenty of videos that will show you how to patch a hole in fiberglass.   Sounds like a lot of work but it is a really simple process that shouldn't take you more than a couple hours as a rookie, and it will be much faster once you have done this the first time.  You will never worry about it leaking!

It is rotted.  Need to replace it.  There are a number of companies that make replacements.  I would check with the awning manufacturer first, but they will usually be the most expensive.

2 minutes ago, Blacknight said:

I am plugged into shore power at home. I do not have the Aqua hot feature and I don't think I have a block heater. The way I understand things, when you activate the key there is a light thats says "wait" so I do till it goes out and then crank it up. Years ago, my father had a diesel Mercedes Benz and you had to hold a "glow plug" warmer before you started the engine-I guessed the "wait" light was a modern glow plug. i think something is definitely is on. Is there a switch to turn on for an engine block heater? Where would I find it? thanks

 

 

 

Sorry, I am not familiar with your model.  It should be if your manual??  If you don't have an owners manual, try to search the site for a manual.  It does sound like a block heater or hot water heater with a loop to the engine.

If your plug into shore power.  Sounds like aqua hot engine heat is on or block heater is on?  If you have those features????

I removed my pump and use gravity.  It is faster and less chance of plugging up.

3 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Spend most of it's life under cover?

I have owned my bus for 2 years and it is about 50% undercover.  When I bought her she was in Florida not covered for a couple years and as I know was in Maine before that, not sure about how it was stored.

I have a 2006 Dynasty and my Girard and Carefree paint is good on both.  

Most likely you have a bad ground.  Try tapping in a ground connection at one of the tail lights an see if that solves your problem.  If it does, then you will need to trace back the ground circuit for those lights.

I would recommend to fix what you have.   If the hoses are in good shape, except at the fittings, you can by fittings to splice to your current hose.  My previous bus had damage fittings which are replaceable.  A lot of the shops don't want to repair the hose, but as long as the hose is in good condition, it can be repaired.  I found a shop that would repair it, but didn't have the tools.  So I went on Amazon and bought a crimping tool kit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09V4CY19C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 

Then went NAPA's website and bought the fittings.   It is not a big deal, you just need to find a shop that will work with you doing this.   So to repeat myself, as long as the hose itself is in good condition, you can repair the hose.   With the tools and fittings it was under $200, plus what the shop will charge you.   While doing this, I would recommend to have the dryer replace, which is less that $75.00.

On the Aladdin in 2006 the wiring from the senders go to a Tank Interface module, which will be mounting on the ceiling of either the 2nd or third bay behind the fuel bay.  You may need to remove the ceiling panel in the bay??  The easiest way to check the senders, is to once you find the Tank Interface Module, swap the gray tank and black tank  RJ-11 plugs and see on the Aladdin display if the problem travels with the wire switch.  This should lead you to if it is the harness or sender.   I would suspect the sender????  I have attached a picture on the Tank Interface Module.

FYI-If it is the harness with RJ-11 plugs on each end, I am not sure if that is straight thru wiring on cross wiring.  You should be able to see by inspecting each end of the plug.  If it comes down to the Tank Interface Module, I have one that you could have for shipping costs.

20 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

 

Scotty, I got my rebuilt Lance-Neville, 200A, alternator from     Custom Electric Service Inc      216-524-9576

                                                                                                      5530 Old Brecksville Rd

                                                                                                      Independence, OH  44131

They are a rebuild shop and will swap with in stock units. 

I'm from NE Ohio.

 

 

I lived in the Cleveland Area for 60 plus years until 3 years ago and used Custom Electric in my business.  They are a great shop and worth the shipping.   And I found another great rebuilding shop here in Tampa:  Hutcherson Alternators & Starters,  701 S. 50th St., Tampa, FL 33619  (813) 247-4365.  Both shops are fair and professional, the old fashion way!

Thanks for the info and pics.  Would love to know the cost for the plates installed.

10 minutes ago, Floyd4949 said:

Thanks. Do you have an idea on the aprox. thickness of the outer surface (fiberglass / luan)?
I have not yet removed the existing light and that answer may become obvious once I do.
Regards,
John

Are you talking about the porch light?  

This is what I have.  I bought a new lens, an LED bulb replacement( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09D7917XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and removed the switch on the light, since you can't reach it anyway.  Works great without drilling more holes.  FYI - the lens is available in amber or clear.  The LED bulb is a lot brighter.

On 3/21/2023 at 5:47 PM, Marine Boy said:

I know this has been talked about in many earlier chats, but sorry, I am asking it again.    I just got done talking with Berry at Josam Frame and he is a strong believer that it is worth the money to install Koni's over Bilstein.  I will admit that they are a Koni dealer which may make a difference???   Also, they do have a very good price on the Koni shock for $199ea.  For comparison, the Source Engineering modified Bilstein are $179 and the regular Bilstein are $115 on Amazon.  I have the 10s Roadmaster chassis, so I need 10 shocks.  Ouch!  But only want to do this once.   Labor quoted is one hour per pair which I feel is very fair and will keep me from crawling under the bus to do it myself.

While inspecting the shocks before I do this, I found one of my tag axle shocks is broken off, but luckily not the stud, just the shock itself .  Looks like it happened recently.

Love to hear experienced input.

Thanks, John

I started this Thread about shock choices a few days ago.  Thanks to everyone who took the time to share their thoughts and experiences.  I have learned a bunch and all of the input is helping me make a final choice.  I love this group and appreciated all of the sharing of knowledge!  

Best, John