Marine Boy

1 minute ago, 1nolaguy said:

I went to Source Engineering's website. Apparently they are no longer selling direct. They use to have current pricing on their website but that is no more for any parts they sell.

You just have to call them for the price.  Shocks are free shipping, too.

I know this has been talked about in many earlier chats, but sorry, I am asking it again.    I just got done talking with Berry at Josam Frame and he is a strong believer that it is worth the money to install Koni's over Bilstein.  I will admit that they are a Koni dealer which may make a difference???   Also, they do have a very good price on the Koni shock for $199ea.  For comparison, the Source Engineering modified Bilstein are $179 and the regular Bilstein are $115 on Amazon.  I have the 10s Roadmaster chassis, so I need 10 shocks.  Ouch!  But only want to do this once.   Labor quoted is one hour per pair which I feel is very fair and will keep me from crawling under the bus to do it myself.

While inspecting the shocks before I do this, I found one of my tag axle shocks is broken off, but luckily not the stud, just the shock itself .  Looks like it happened recently.

Love to hear experienced input.

Thanks, John

Sounds like I would check the clock spring first.   

My 2006 Dynasty has the control box in the front service area drivers side.  Find attached pictures.  When I was buying my bus, the steering wheel controls didn't work and it ended up being the wiring plug a few inches from the control box had gotten wet and the connections corroded.

You can go to a large marine canvas shop and ask for "sail track".  Take your wheel cover canvas with you so the track size needed can be verified.

7 hours ago, Goldeneagle said:

This is the point I’m at right now is fabricating something to go into that space out of aluminum on the CNC machine and then I’ll be able to put a third brake light on top of it

I was considering that also.  Just trying to not have the light sticking out.  If you make a spacer, you may want to check the mounting surface.  Mine has a minor radius.

6 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

With some careful dissasembly you may be able to refill the light with a led strip light. 

Another led strip that comes to mind is the third brake light I see on pickups sometimes. I put one one a small utility trailer. They would be easy enough to trim down I suspect. I will do some research on that. 

 

Hi Myron,

Yes, my next option is to disassemble the old light and install a new LED strip.  Since this is the original light, the red plastic lens is only in fair condition and I was hoping to have a backup before I do a disassembly, with the risk of breakage.  I would be willing to trim down a light, but as I have said previously much taller than 3/4" and it won't fit in the recess.  Keep the ideas coming.

Best,  John

1 hour ago, myrontruex said:

AT-LED-28SMT

 

A search for this will show lots of options. Even Amazon has a ton of them. 

I have replaced mine a couple of times. 

Hi Myron,

Thanks for the idea.  On a number of Monaco & HR coaches the 3rd brake light mounts in a recess that is just over 3/4" tall, so any light much taller than 3/4" will not fit in the recess.  I have had no luck finding a light like this on Amazon or other places, but I am still hopeful I will find one.  Please keep sending ideas!

Thanks, John

1 hour ago, lake49068 said:

Just looked at Veurinks (Grand Rapids, MI) parts website and they list a center brake light but no dimensions.  Give them a call to check fit...

Adam

Just checked with Veurinks and they responded with not available any longer and there only solution was RV Salvage yard. 

I am trying to find one that may be a little shorter that is still only 3/4" tall and will still fit in the recess.  So if anyone has seen one that is only 3/4" tall, please let me know.  And/or one that is 3/4" tall and 9" long so I could fit two side by side.

Thanks, John

7 hours ago, Goldeneagle said:

Hey guys first post, and great forum with lots of knowledge. I’m hoping someone can help me source my third brake light for my 2007 holiday rambler navigator. The brake light is 18 inches long approximately and can’t seem to find it anywhere 

thanks Nathan 

Hi Nathan,

I believe that your 3rd light is the same as on my 2006 Monaco Dynasty.  I have been trying for a year now with no luck.  The light that Frank mentioned from www.spoilerlights.com is about 3/8" to long and about 1/2" to tall.  The mounting holes have the correct distance between them.   I will attach some pictures I took comparing the lights and how it didn't fit.  The folks at spoilerlights were great.  He sent me his light freight free and took it back when it didn't work.  I am sure he has a lot of people wanting a replacement for our light and was hoping I could find a way to make it work.  Sorry I don't have an solution as of yet, but would love to fine one.

Best,  John

I wanted to report back what I found causing no water to my toilet, a Sealand/Dometic MAGNUM OPUS 3110.  Once I removed the toilet, I tested the water supply getting to toilet to make sure it was not plugged.  All was good there.  After that, I disassemble the 12v water valve and found that there is a mess screen at the inlet which was clean.  What I did find was hard particles plugging the rubber washer in the valve assembly.  I was very thankful the the valve could be disassemble with only three screws.  It was definitely worth the time, since the valve was in good condition and a new one would have cost over $100.00.   While I had the toilet out, I replace the Dometic Sealand 385311009 Plug-In Base Seal Kit, since it probably was original.   All is fresh and clean in toilet land.

I wanted to share my final resolution to my question starting this post over 3 month ago.  Everyone's input sent me in the right direction to solve my non-functional gauge issue.  First I found out what gauge system I had, which ended up being Actia.  I call:

David Lindenlaub

Senior Applications Engineer

ACTIA Corp

2809 Bridger Ct.

Elkhart, IN 46514

Office: (574) 266-2610

Fax : (574) 266-2710

Email: dlindenlaub@actia.com

Website: www.actiaus.com 

explained my non-functioning Engine Temp & Trans Temp not working on a quad gauge in my dash.  We discussed the self test gauge sweep at start up not happening.  At that point he had:

Michelle Brower

Warranty Technician

ACTIA Corp

2809 Bridger Ct.

Elkhart, IN 46514

Office: (574) 266-2612 EXT 112

Fax: (574) 266-2771

Email: mbrower@Actia.com

Website: www.actiaus.com

get involved.  She checked to make sure the parts to repair the gauge were available, which luckily they were.  I shipped the gauge to Actia at Michelle's request.  Once they received it, I got an estimate of repair in a couple days and then I approved the repairs.  I received a repaired gauge back including shipping time in about a week.  Excellent customer service....

Thanks again to everyone in this blog with the info I needed to make this happen smoothly and save me a bunch of research time.

Best,  John Sima

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

There is no filter on the supply line to the Magnum Opus toilet. My current Dynasty has a Magnum Opus and my previous Windsor has a Magnum Opus and neither of them have any water filter in the supply line going to the toilet.

Thanks!  I guess I will be removing the toilet tomorrow and seeing if the water solenoid is plugged or bad??

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

do you have the Mono (SP) Block manifold system.  Check there for the toilet outlet, if one.  UNLESS there is a "prefilter" in the solenoid inlet, then it is PROBABLY on the same filter system as the rest of the house.  Other than that....may be time to pull it out and then quickly test (with a hose and a bowl to catch the water, the line.  Obviously TURN OFF the water supply and depressurize....as it may be LIVE and UGLY.  LOL.

Hi Tom,  Thanks for  your input.  I already checked the manifold and it feeds the sink in the head compartment and the toilet, so I know the supply is coming out of the manifold.  The only thing I have not check other than removing the toilet is next to the toilet there is a cabinet box 8"L x 5"W x 6" H and the white plastic water line comes from it and goes to the toilet.  The problem is that it is really glued in well and has a hard surface counter top as a lid.  Could be a filter in there, but it is so well glued, I think there will be a 50/50 chance of damage when trying to open it up?  You can see the it bottom left.   

I have a 2006 Dynasty with a SEALAND MAGNUM OPUS 3110 toilet.  Just lost water supply to the toilet and before I remove the bowl from the floor, I was wondering if anyone knows if there is an inline water filter before the toilet.   I have check the switch and control board and all is working properly.  I can just get my hand in the back of the toilet to touch the water valve and it is clicking when I push the water add button, making me believe it is working?  Any thoughts would be appreciated before I make a mess.

Thanks, John

My 06 Dynasty Diamond IV does not have lights on mirrors.  They do have 3 adjustable mirrors.

It probably is in the driver's side forward service cabinet.  Electric toggle switch??

36 minutes ago, On_the_road said:

The door on my water tank compartment has two latched and one is broken.   I would like to replace the broken latch.   They look like this:

 

 

 

The basement doors have a switch, but some of them are broken.   I would like to replace them, but I don't know what they are called.   They look like this:

Thanks;

Pete.

 

Here are the door switches I used.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086P36KB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

20 hours ago, Moiras said:

Thanks John, if I put the rear camera in the a/v input, i dont know if ill be able to see the other cameras either thru the see u vision or blinker activation or when the RV goes into reverse.  But my DH likes to have that audio from the rear camera.  I think it could save your butt someday.  Maybe I could just add a little speaker for it....

And the alladin output will be in the camera input.  Oh my, I forgot all about the pin out for alladin.  I hope its just an rca jack.

This would be easier if you could give me a call to discuss how your system is wired and the best way to do it with your new Boss stereo.  I am available tonight or all day tomorrow.  I am EST living near Tampa.  John at (440) 537-2555

9 minutes ago, Moiras said:

Ok quick question, did you lose your sound from the backup camera?   And is there a way to defeat the parking brake requirement to use the alladin screen or android apps etc.?

You can keep the sound from the rear camera.  I need to look back at the wiring drawings and pinouts from Aladdin.  You need to decide which input you plan to use on the Boss unit.  It might be easier if you use the AV input, that way you will have sound from the rear camera.  I need to look back at the manual on which functions are affected by the parking brake switching.  Android Auto, which I use 90% of the time is not affected by parking brake switching.  I will do my best to get you more info tomorrow.

3 hours ago, Larry Laursen said:

I have a 2013 Ford Edge and flat tow it.  I installed a switch on the dash power fuse that turns the dash off and the battery has little to no draw.  There are some newer years that can't be towed.  You have to check the owners manual under "Recreational Towing"

Larry's way to remove draw from the battery is a good one. 

I wanted to share the 2012 Edge that I just purchased and I flat tow, was already rigged when I bought it, and it has a 12vdc supply coming from my bus wired to the Edge battery through what I believe is a regulator box to keep the battery charged when flat towing.  

One thing I did find out is that it is a good idea to turn off the auto lights and auto sensing wipers before you start driving into rain and/or a storm.  My first experience towing this vehicle was just last week evacuating from the Tampa area to the southeast of Florida.  About 1.5 hours into the 4 hour drive, which turned into a 7 hour drive, wipers and lights started working while I was towing.  Due to the extreme weather from Ian's shift south, I just watched the lights and wipers operate in my rearview camera.  At the end of the trip the battery on my Edge was still fully charge, which proved to me the charging circuit, for the toad, from my bus, was working properly.  Very hard way to test equipment functionality!

16 minutes ago, Chad A said:

The camera needs the power. It has nothing to do with the signal coming into your new receiver. At least that is what I remember. 
 

I removed the screws holding the entire Burl console to get to everything. Remove the entire console and you have access to everything behind. This is when I added the usb chargers in place of the lighters. 

Chad is correct.  When you unplug the backup camera harness from the Sony monitor, you will be disconnecting the 8vdc power that is supplying the backup camera.  This is where you will need to use the voltage adjuster to power that camera.   Most of the time the entire panel will need to be removed for access to wiring.  Because of the many holes, I made a new dash panel at the start of my project.  Now everything looks almost factory.

15 minutes ago, buzz shamer said:

hi all i Sean to day on the beltway a diesel pusher  flat towing a ford edge was wondering how they were doing it don't want to by another car any advice would be much  appreciated thanks buzz

I have a 2012 Edge and it can be flat towed.  I believe after 2013 the Edge was not flat towable.  But you may want to check for yourself.  If you go to www.motorhome.com, you can get back copies of "Guide to Dinghy Towing".

Looks like the light you bought is a high voltage ac light and I would believe that the solenoid is 12vdc, so indicator light you bought wouldn't work.

6 minutes ago, Moiras said:

Do you have a link for the voltage reducer?

Here is the link to the voltage reducer that I used.  It is adjustable and I set mine with the engine running, so the input voltage is at the level where you normally use the camera.  I would suggest that you check the back of the Sony display to make sure that the rear camera is connected directly into it for that voltage going to the Camera.  

https://www.amazon.com/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP

46 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

@Marine Boy I’m interested in how you changed the background on your Aladdin display…. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone do that before. 😳

Hi Scott,

Sorry, I didn't fully explain that my Aladdin failed and I decided to do the Silverleaf conversion.  So on the Silverleaf, I can show data over the cameras or on a black screen.  The one surprise I got was replacing the Sony display(just to get a larger display) and finding out the backup camera is powered by 8vdc from the old Sony display.  Since I definitely didn't want to have to run more wires for a new 12v Camera, on Amazon, I found a DC voltage regulator(5 for about $10) to cut down the 12vdc system voltage to 8 volts and it has been working great for 6 months now.  To share another issue while installing the Silverleaf, I now don't believe my Aladdin went bad, I think the shop that checked it didn't notice that the voltage going to the Aladdin had dropped to under 2 volts.  I found this out after completely installing the Silverleaf conversion and it didn't work.  After a couple hours of trouble shooting, I found the issue of low voltage.   I probably did the conversion for nothing.  But I am very happy with the Conversion.