QueenandI

I had a simple White-Rogers/RBM relay with an IRD, both of which were in the battery bay. Straight forward to move the batteries from the large terminals on White-Rogers/RBM relay to A&B on ML ACR. The IRD had an Ignition lead to it for the Pigtail Brown Isolation #1. Picked up a ground for the Pigtail Black in battery bay. Purple wire from White-Rogers/RBM relay ran to Alt Start switch and used it for the RED wire from ML-ACR pigtail. Alt Start switch had a (+) wire that ran from the front run bay fused (7.5 amp) and jumped it from Spade 8 to Spade 3 on new switch. Alt Switch had a ground as well Spade 1. Ran a 5 wire conductor from battery bay to Front run bay to. Used one wire from new 5 wire conductor for Pigtail Yellow to new switch. Used another wire for Pigtail Green Isolation #2 to Genset light on dashboard. Stole Picture from Cubflyer above.

This project had been on my to do list. Started it now because my Alternator light came on coming home in December from East Lansing. DUVAC alternator was producing <11v at it terminals. Pulled it, ordered a new one, had the old rebuilt and while doing research came across vanwill52 post 

Decided to move this project from the to do list to the done list. Also, discovered that the Chassis battery cutoff switch had been removed, so added a BlueSea switch and replaced the Coach battery switch with new as well. It was Vanwill's post that made it clear the process, especially ok-rver post with pic of with a similar setup up. Since there was no BIG boy, Solid State Isolator (SSI) or a Lambert Charger in my setup, finding something similar was the key to confidence to upgrade to ML ACR. 

I did find a 30amp fused blue wire hooked directly to the large battery terminal on White-Rogers/RBM relay. No clue where it goes but will save that for another day. 

Thank you for your responses and previous posts!!!!

5 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Initially I didn't wire in the sense circuit for the generator.  Then I thought about it and did wire in both the generator and starting isolation but left the fuses out thinking I'd use then if I ever had a problem.  So far I haven't had a problem so we'll see what others have done.  Worse Case Scenario I can switch the Blue Sea off .  Will be interesting to see what others are doing. 

FWIW,

We first bought a Class C and my wife drove the wheels off of it going to dog shows.  I only got to use in on vacation a couple times a year so probably less then half the total miles put on the rig the ~11 years we owned it.

We then bought the Windsor and she pretty much continued her dog show trips while I worked, never really paid attention to the miles until in 2012 I was shocked when I changed the oil and saw that she had put on ~12K miles.   I was working/living in Upper Michigan and she stayed in the house in E TN until she drove the rig north for a couple months during the summer.  I was traveling a lot and didn't take many trips in the the RV probably traveling +200 days gone mostly out of country.  Found out that on her way home in the fall she zig-zagged her way way back going to different dog shows.  Yikes, 12k miles.  Luckily it has slowed down as far as the shows but still has dogs.  Her latest acquisition is an Anatolian Sheppard, ~140 pound gentle giant who watches over the Pekingese . 

That's what got us our DP, the dog shows. Couple vacations together, she goes to her shows with our Bassets, I maintain it and get to tailgate with it. 

I've got the wires in the right spot, just need to connect if it's in the best interest of the batteries, alternator and inverter. 

2001 Diplomat Cummins 330 ISC

4000 posts on this have been read on this topic but no clear answer to the following. I have it installed, wires ran to the front for switch and it works. The questions are;

1. With the wire to the Genset to isolation circuit, anytime the generator is running, the ML ACR will not auto-connect the 2 sets of batteries? So to connect the chassis to coach, setting the switch to "On" would force the two sets together. This would be need when dead/low chassis batteries after boondocking.

2. Or does it take 2 isolation circuits, one on the Engine ignition and one on the Genset, and only then does it auto-disconnect the 2 circuits when both are charging? 

3. Or no wiring for isolation circuits is done and the worse thing that happens is you get the low alternator light on and no damage is being done, don't worry about it. I know that I can switch off and on when running the generator down the road, but I am trying to make it smooth and seamless for the Queen when she travels by herself. 

Thanks!

HOOK

Thank you for your replies and advise. Yes, I have a new Pittman arm from Wellers too. I appreciate the instructions. It also doesn't give saw hole size to access the adjustment screw on the new TRW, but in the picture it appears to be similar to the mounting holes. 

First time poster, long time information gather. 2001 Monaco Dipolmatt. Getting ready to swap the busted Sheppard M100 PMN31 to a TRW in the Ohio Welcome Rest Stop on I-70 E 2 hrs from home and want to make sure I have everything I need before I head over there. Been in contact with Weller and have the TRW on the way. Multiple sets of directions, some more complex than others. Sockets, wrench, impact, breaker bar, new filters, DexIII, floor jack, hammer. However, from all my gleaning information, I can not find the size of hole I need to drill for the new TRW adjustment. Any ideas?

What else am I missing? 

Side question, is the onboard air compressor belt or hydraulic driven? Can I run the engine to operate air tools or bring my own compressor to run off the generator?

Thank you for being such a great group of very smart and experienced individuals!

HOOK