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Cubflyer

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Required Information

  • FirstName
    Kenneth
  • Make
    Holiday Ramber
  • Model
    HR Endeavor 40PST
  • Year
    2003
  • City & State
    HERNANDO, MS

Optional Information

  • Full Address (Optional)
    1930 Green Village Drive, HERNANDO, Mississippi, 38632
  • Phone (Optional)
    9014843552

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  1. Original 03 vintage units or have they been replaced before? Evaporator fan means inside fan, right? I think it matters or maybe it doesn't . Yes, I believe original units, inside fan, on same motor as the 'outside' fan, and they are different from inside or outside.
  2. My evaporator plastic squirrel cage fan is cracked, blades missing. Anyone have an old unit around with a good fan in it you want to part with?
  3. So true! Not only do you need to buy a new 'top unit' but it will not 'play' with other (old) unit or thermostat without an 'adapter board' (@ $200 and no stock). At this point (in my experience) I think if I really HAD to replace the unit, I would put a 'stand alone' unit up there..... and K.I.S.S. it.
  4. Things worked out great! Pressure held, pulled a vacuum, let it set for days. Meanwhile I added a brace to stop the stress on the area of the tubing that cracked. Insulated and sealed up the area of the evaporator coil and cleaned all coils. I "boxed in" the condenser coil area so that the cover is no longer needed to form that plenum. Placed the unit back up on the roof and connected the controls, serviced the unit with R22 and it is now blowing cold air again! (Happy Me!) Now I will complete the repair by insulating and sealing up the air distribution system. I'm planning to fabricate a spacer to place between the plastic grill and the base plate to create a gap to eliminate the electric junction box from clogging the filter. (a problem with both units so I will make two..) P.S. Rik W.... I did crack a beer with my a/c guy buddy with cold air blowing.... and about $1500 still in my pocket...☺️🍻 https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipOI3pgGabJbUESBdEa7Mq1VD_aVFQPlJLX312gv
  5. Grampy OG-Ken, If you have not figured it out already..... a "step drill" bit does a great job of opening up the large but not large enough wire terminals so they fit the ML-ACR terminal posts. Ken
  6. If you can find "Kroil" or ACF50, soak it overnight and try some more.... maybe some heat also... Automatic transmission fluid and acetone if you cant find Kroil... or ACF50
  7. My generator had a habit of not starting due to lack of fuel caused by a dirty fuel filter, coded 3-6 after failed start... might be your crank but no start problem. https://www.rvandplaya.com/onan-generator-fault-code-36/ Moving blankets on flooring and beds and couches before taking it to them would be a good plan..... just saying...
  8. Good tip on SpaceCoast Plating... I have used them and they really do a great job. Separately, Rik, this summer while driving, I was getting a reflection of the sun into my eyes from the tops of the mirror arms... I'm going to paint the tops of those arms flat black to eliminate that glare/reflection. Ken
  9. Bob S, What?? I don't want to challenge your brother.... but if the photo you sent is of your engine and you have a 2001 Dip...... you have a Cummins 8.3 ISC 330 hp engine. https://www.rvroundtable.com/wp-content/uploads/Monaco/Diplomat-LE/2001.Diplomatle.pdf see page 4 https://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2001/Monaco Ken
  10. Yes, the cylinder like thing with the wires plugged into it on the bottom of that housing with the hose fittings and three bolts thru it...
  11. Bob S. If that is a photo of your leaking pump, and it is not leaking on the ground, seems minor enough to continue... I unknowingly drove mine from South FL to Memphis with a pump leaking worse than that.... never mind if that is not a current photo... ASAP, bypass that expensive pos with a FASS pump or FASS pump/filter system..... Ken
  12. Mike, The Blue Sea has a remote control switch (I have yet to install it) and there is a "both batteries combined" position (for starting). Also an "either battery charged" if there is voltage higher than 'nominal battery voltage' so both batteries can be charged from one source, or the batteries can be isolated.... which is what I do if I'm running the engine (alternator) and any other charging source (invertor powered by shore or genny) so I'm not charging from two sources. the original "Boost" switch is inop in my case, not needed or connected anymore.
  13. My 8.3 ISC looks more like this.... the lift pump is hard to see but the three mounting bolts (vertical) on the housing that has the brass fitting by the bell housing and the silver colored hard line coming out the front going to the white fuel filter is easy to see....
  14. Yes, Lift pump is above the starter. My experience with a 'leaking lift pump' the pump was fine, but the gasket between the pump and the housing it is bolted to was bad. The leak first showed up as a dampness on the starter and bellhousing. Really 'showed' itself while I was t/s'ing a ABS light, that required me to cycle the ignition switch causing the pump to run without the engine running. That created a puddle under the engine about 2 ft in diameter. The pump is held to the housing with three bolts (8mm socket if I remember correctly) from the top, accessible with a long 1/4" extension (18"). Gasket gets old and hard, bolts loosen up and fuel can seep out and air can be drawn in (bad thing for the injector $ pump. I bypassed the stock lift pump by installing a union fitting with a pressure tap (1/8" pipe thread) in the fuel feed hose and pipe. Then replaced the 'primary filter' with a FASS pump and filter system. I feel it was a great improvement in the fuel system, and highly recommend it.
  15. I believe with the ML-ACR both chassis and house do... that has been my experience with it in "auto" mode... if I'm running the genny and the engine I isolate them..... The original relay and control I have no idea how it was designed to work....
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