Rocketman3

Also, there are several safety cutoffs…

I used a transmission neutral safety cutoff to make a can’t start switch. When I forget to switch it back on, it acts like what you are describing. No click - but just doesn’t start.

Dont know if that helps at all.

In my 2000 Dynasty, I replaced the 85w OEM panel with two 210w panels, and I replaced the Solar Controller Controller) SCC with a Victron mppt 100/30. 
 

After a while, I decided I needed a bit more solar on that array (after adding Starlink 24/7) and was able to match up two 100w panels (in parallel) that together worked well with the other panels. This overpaneled that array, but it helps with more power when the conditions are not just right. (I only lost 12w of power in panel mismatch penalty).

My cables from the roof to the SCC were plenty big, also the cables from the SCC were 8awg - their only issue is they are very long. Which impacts the voltage drop on the wire.

I get 30a of charging for a lot of the day, The last week on the good days - I have been getting 2.6 to 2.8kwh of daily power from that array (400w for 6.5 to 7 hours) - it all depends on clouds…

In my rig because of the OEM wires, that’s as large of a SCC I could put in - keeping the SCC in the same place.

The motion rechargeable led lights that Mike H showed are great! We got ours a couple years ago from Amazon.  In addition to the entry way, we have them installed just above the bathroom sink and also in the toilet room.

 At night these provide plenty (almost too much) light and we don’t wake up the other person if we get up in the night.

I also put sea level on my 2000Dynasty.  
I added a display panel in my wet bay. Let’s me know how close to full the water is getting- it is great.

it uses 3 & 4% for the changes - for example 74%, 77%, then 81%. I have had it for about 2 years - works great.

here are the pictures- showing the stick on sensors  and my main gauges. I had a little wood spacer made to make it look good.

Good Luck

Solar wire… maybe… On my 2000 Dynasty the solar wire went directly to the battery- it was 8 awg and had a fuse on it.

How does that switch disconnect from the backer board?  That’s one of the switches I have been thinking about replacing.

For my MotorHome to get the bedroom A/C to work on inverter, I moved the breaker from the “shore/generator “ panel to the “inverter” panel.  The shore panel has breakers going to the inverter for charging. 
 

Then either in pass-through mode or inverter mode the inverter supplies the inverter panel with power. Your electric system may be setup completely different.

For the heater… Your old thermostat that controlled the A/C’s also controlled the heater. The heater control wires go up to the A/C to a board that operates a relay that controls the heater. (which you removed when you took out the oem A/C).
 

My rig had two independent thermostats one for rear A/C and one for front A/C and heater (4-button). I did not replace the frontA/C because I wasn’t sure how to handle the heater at that time (we use the heater way more than the A/C’s). I figure I can put up a thermostat just for the heater  when I replace the front A/C.  I have not pursued that yet.
 

The furnace has two 12v control wires - if you connect them together- the furnace starts, break the connection and it stops.  If you don’t use it much you could literally just connect those wires to a manual switch or find a heater only RV thermostat. 
 

I want to figure out how to hook the Micro Air thermostat to run just the heater - but I haven’t taken the time yet to figure it out. 
 

Good Luck with the project 

Hello everyone,

I figured I would let you know about my latest project. 
 

About a year ago I replaced the rear A/C with a RecPro 3800. The old A/C had its own 4-button thermostat. The front A/C (and furnace) work on a different thermostat. It has worked well when we needed it to (we don’t usually travel to places we need it).  I also moved the incoming power for that A/C to the inverter breaker box - that way I could run the A/C on inverter. 
 

When I did that my inverter (Victron Multiplus 12/3000) would send me a warning saying low voltage and high ripple when the compressor started. 
 

I finally decided to put a soft start on that A/C. I put the MicroAir EZ start Bluetooth unit. It was a very easy install. 
 

Then it was time to do the 5 starts. The first start is without any EZ start help. It took 27.9amps (@120v) to start. No wonder the inverter was giving me the warnings. After finishing the starts - it now only takes 16.5amps (120v) to start the compressor. The inverter no longer complains!

Today (just for fun), I ran the A/C for several hours on battery (544ah lithium) and solar (1400w). The A/C slowly drains the battery-  ended my day at 90% full.

Does your generator start on the Chassis battery or the house battery. Monaco did it both ways in different years. 
 

My rig the generator is on the Chassis battery. If the generator is running and I try to start the diesel engine- it kills the generator and I get generator errors - either the ignition switch kills the power as the start circuit is engaged or the voltage drops so low the generator quits. I read somewhere that is NOT good for the generator (can fry an electronics board - don’t know if it’s true or not) so I try not to do it. 

I usually don’t drive with the generator on. But I have (just have to remember to shut it down before starting. 

my generator is the 7.5

Good Luck

After reading this and watching the video on fixing the beltline - how do I know if I have a beltline problem?

I have a 2000 Dynasty- (older than the ones you were working on). I looked at my beltline and it all look good, it all looks sealed. I ran my thumb over the whole lower beltline- it all felt smooth (horizontally) - in two section it felt fatter (vertically), right at the passenger bay door and at the rear radiator. 
 

As long as the upper beltline is also good - does that mean no issues and someone had a good day at the factory 23 years ago?

Thanks

I cut the fridge in half…

don’t cut the back - you will release the gasses. All I cut was sheet metal, foam, plastic, and a few wires. 
 

straight down the sides in the middle. 
 

good Luck

8 hours ago, Bill R said:

Does anyone use a Battery Monitoring System that can work remotely via WiFi?   I would like to be able to monitor while coach is in storage miles from me.  Does it even exist?

FYI- Victron can do it with 2 devices…

1. Battery Monitor- Smartshunt or BMV712.

2. GX device - such as Cerbo or Venus or CCGX

Then you set up on VRM. And you can see the status of all your Victron equipment and system. 
 

Here is my current snapshot - granted I am in my rig (11pm), but I can just as easy be anywhere- the only thing my rig needs is it’s internet connection(Starlink), or a connection to a WiFi. 
 

Now this is probably overkill if all you want to check on is the battery monitor- an internet camera might make more sense, but because I already had the equipment- there was no additional costs for me. (If it wasn’t 11pm I could see the solar watts that are being produced).

One device that helped me really understand the batteries is a Victron Smartshunt (or BMV712).  This is a shunt based battery monitor (costs abt $130).

It let’s me know what percentage my batteries are - I.e. 72%. This is really good for recharging lead batteries- cause then you know - if you need to recharge and when to stop the generator. 
 

Also, to help with your current question of why did the AGS start? It has a trend feature that records the data. So for example, I just ran my microwave off the inverter for lunch.  I can see my voltage before was 14.25v (my batteries were in the absorbing phase), then dropping to abt 13.35v while it was running- then climbed back up. You don’t need to be looking at it to see those numbers- it reports it in the graph- after the event is over. 
 

with the correct data you can then decide if the AGS  is set too high, or if it needs a delay added (if it’s possible with your unit).

It is easy to install - attach a cable to the most negative battery terminal- attach that cable to the battery side of the shunt and move all the other negative cables to the load side of the shunt. (That way all power into or out of the battery goes through the shunt). Attach a small power wire - and your done. 
 

Now if you already have another brand of shunt based battery monitor- maybe it can tell you what happened. 
 

Good Luck
 

I really like this post and want a secret wire too…

For prevention…

I really don’t know if it working or not - but we haven’t had any mice for a couple of years (knocking on all the nice oak in our dynasty).

my wife got two electric mice deterrents. 

120v one “Riddex plus” we full time with inverter on 24/7. (From Amazon)

2 C battery deterrent - evidently the company wasn’t very proud of their device - no name on it.

Plus she has Irish Spring soap in the bays  

The theory is they emit sounds the mice don’t like  - not enough to drive them from a nice home - but enough to make them keep looking for a home.

we found one nest in a furnace heater line that went under the cabinets- the funny thing is that line has no where to blow out - must have been for a different option at the factory.

 Good Luck in your cleanup. 
 

To me this would be a pass… (to add to a MotorHome).

1. The lithiums are only 100ah @ 24v.  That’s equivalent to a 200ah 12v battery- not a very big battery. 

2. This would just be “additional equipment” on your MotorHome- you probably could not remove anything. 
 

3. it would take more stuff to make it work seem less in the RV. 
 

4. to add solar to your rig, it would probably be better to pick out the panels for the perfect size for your roof. 

Now it this is for a shed, etc… maybe…

On my 2000 Dynasty, I suddenly got a dreaded water leak in the cabinets above the drivers seat. When looking for it I discovered the problem at the satellite dish. So off it came.

Previously, we had redone the roof with Dicor’s product, so you can see the outline very well.  I just zip tied the cables to the horn… I probably should deal with those someday. 

The new roof space soon found another solar panel. (To help with the Starlink being on 24/7 - except when traveling).

Don’t be afraid to take it off.

Good Luck

We also have Starlink - it has been great!

We got a Peplink from MobileMust Have with a Verizon data card, and it worked good (but always a bit slow), we also have a nice roof antenna. 

Last year we got Starlink, and it has worked so great I just turned off the Verizon data card. We do WiFi calling and tons on data (I still work part time).

We used Starlink in our travels to British Columbia- fun fact - at Prince George the Starlink points South instead of North.  We also used it last winter all up and down Baja. 
 

currently we are in the mountains of Utah where there is no cell signal - but Starlink, iphone, and Verizon does a very nice WiFi calling.
 

Usually it goes on our ladder with a Flag Pole Buddy setup. We also have the 150’ cable as well as the supplied 75’ cable. So far have always had signal. A few times in very tall trees - the signal was not so great - but then we just used our phones data. 
 

Usually signals are 100mb downloads and 10-12 upload - but over the last week I have seen a low of 50 down 8 up and a high of 221 down and 15 up.

Cost is $150/month - but you can turn it off when not RV - so no charges during months you don’t use it. 
 

For RV’s I think Starlink has arrived. 

That is a nice bumper…

What I did… (maybe it gives you some ideas).

I replaced the bumper with an aluminum Rockhard 4x4 bumper. Take a look at them. My father &I did all the work ourselves. 
I like this attachment option because the hooks that attach to whatever tow bar I buy are bolted through the bumper and right on the frame. Very Solid!  I use the red D-rings for the safety chains. The tow bar brackets that go below the bumper I felt might get damaged on the trail- and didn’t look great. 

Rockhard4x4 has stubby bumpers like yours. 

(on the right side on top of the bumper you can see the breakaway switch, the left side on top of the bumper is the air supply for AirForce1 brake system, and to the right of the left side red D-ring I’d the light connection- I used a round 6-wire instead of the standard 4-wire because I thought it would be better).
 

You need to make sure the tow bar is basically level. I used a 2” rise until I lifted my Jeep now it’s a 6” rise (from Roadmaster).

The light kit I got from e-trailer. Simple to install- open the taillights - insert the harness by unplugging light - plug in harness and replug the light. - the hardest part(which is not hard) is running the wires up front. 

The BlueOx tow bar came with the MotorHome. So I used it - unfortunately it failed 20 miles outside of Anchorage. Luckily it failed in such a way that the Jeep was no longer locked on both arms - just one arm. So towing straight & up was fine, but when going downhill the Jeep would hit the Non locked section and bump at the fully compressed part. Hearing strange bumps, I saw the Jeep was out of position- too close and too right side - got pulled over and the only damage was the ruined tow bar. Got a beefier tow bar ordered in 10,000lbs instead of 7500lbs. And it has been working fine since. If you decide to use a used bar be careful. BlueOx recommends servicing annually or so and replacing after 7(???) years. 
 

Brake system. With the RV came the brake system RVI Brake System 2.  It was discontinued when we bought the rig(the #3 was out). After a few years the display module started dying. So we replaced it with the Air Force 1 brake system. I like the new system much better because it applies the brakes every time I do. - easier to setup and take down. (Did most of the work myself- but had the RV mechanic do the air & brake lines when I had it in for its service).

Be careful and thoughtful about the towing. That is one area you don’t want problems. 
 

Good Luck!

Battery boost problem goes to the type of bms you have in the batteries multiplied by the number of batteries. 

if you use the boost to “recharge” the starting battery for 10min or so - no problem. However if you want to hit the starter - you need to know your overall capacities.

My diesel engine wants something like 900 to 1000 CCA (cold cranking amps) for the battery.
 

If your lithium bms can only deliver 100amps by spec, and you don’t want to take it to 100% - so let’s derate it 20% - now have 80amps available- multiply by say six batteries- that only gives 480amps for starting.  That may be enough for the generator- but not for the main engine. 
 

Now if your bms is rated at 200 amps - 20% derate would be 160amps - times four batteries is 640amps. Still a bit low. But maybe with the starting battery and a warmer engine- you might be ok or you could blow the FETs in the bms. 
 

One of the issues is the Locked Rotor Amps needed to start the starter turning - takes a lot of energy for that initial hit of power

That is why the manufacturers say you can’t use them as a starter battery. With enough batteries you could… but…

We have topped it off several times, but then the system shows signs of coolant coming out when hot. 
 

You are probably right an air pocket somewhere… 

I have the Volvo tank. 

Hello Everyone,

2000 Dynasty ISC - Last year I had the engine oil cooler fail - got a bit of oil in the coolant (but no coolant in the oil 🙂 ).

The shop replaced the oil cooler, flushed the coolant lines, and put new coolant in the system. 
 

Now I am having “strange” behavior at startup and shutdown. When the engine is warm and running the coolant seems to be at the proper level in the tank. However, after shutting down the engine the coolant “disappears” and there is not much in the tank. The “low coolant sensor” is completely dry, so I get a low coolant warning when I startup. It will stay on about as long as my air tanks take to fill up (sometimes a bit longer), but by the time I start driving it is off and plenty of coolant in the tank. 
 

I have had the rig for over four years and it never did that until the coolant was changed and now it does it every time. 
 

Any ideas???

Ok … how do you do the data logging on the Silverleaf VMSpec?

When I added my FASS pump to my 2000 Dynasty (ISC), I also added the EGT gauge and a gauge for the fuel pressure after all the filters. Ran those wires at the same time. 

I used ISSPRO gauges, they matched the look of my other gauges pretty good. I have really liked the EGT gauge because I think it helps me drive better in the mountains (a lot of my time is spend in Utah mountains).  The other item that really helps it my Silverleaf computer because it shows the exact engine temp and the engine load.  All those help me drive better in the mountains. 

I diy-ed my own 544ah battery (eight Lishen 272ah cells (2p4s)), with a Batrium BMS. I had previously changed out my inverter to a Victron 12/3000, plus solar (800w w/ Victron mppt).

We full-time in our 2000 Dynasty. 
 

You need to prevent charging when the batteries are below 32 degrees. I insulated the battery box the best I could. (Changed out starting battery to AGM). Insulated around lithium battery and a 12v heat pad (waste tank heating pad) below the battery have kept my batteries about 40 deg, when it has been in the high 20’s at night. Also my Victron Smartshunt has a temperature monitor so it tells my Multiplus and solar mppt’s to NOT charge if the battery is below about 38 degrees. 
 

Next, I broke the charging connection to the alternator - took out the dual battery isolator. (I later added a Dc-dc charger so the alternator could help charge the batteries- but that is not necessary).
 

You need at least one of your charging sources to be ideal for lithium- battery charger or solar. That way occasionally you can bring the battery up to a full charge so the bms can balance the cells. Wildly Unbalanced cells are bad!

As far a which battery I would recommend… if my Dad decided to add lithiums, I would go with Li-ion energy’s UT1300. I have looked at those batteries at RV shows - and I like them. 
 

One other item, make sure you have enough batteries to provide the current your inverter needs. If that is at least 300 amps - three 100a batteries with 100a bms or two 200a batteries with 150a bms’s (or more). In my case I need 400a of current through my 4/0 cables. 
 

You also need to track the state of charge of the batteries. It should be a shunt-based monitor. 
 

Good Luck with your project!
 

Hello everyone,

I just installed a composting toilet into my 2000 Dynasty. It is an Ogo Toilet. Part of the reason for the install is because our cheap RV toilet started to have problems (again). Had to install a cheap toilet because the original nice porcelain had problems at the beginning of Covid - and the supply of them was gone - so it was a cheap or or nonthing. Cheap worked for over 2 years. 

composting toilets are not for most RVers. To be worthwhile, you must spend most of the time away from dump stations. We full-time and boondock almost all the time. 

Just for those that may consider this option. 

The toilet ring sticks up just under 1/2” above the tile. Because I wanted to retain the capacity to re-add the RV toilet, I put a test plug in the sewer line to plug it up, and laid a 1/2” piece of plywood over the tile. 

Fastened it down and put some laminate floor-tile over the plywood. (This is the floor tile we will use when we re-floor the whole MotorHome- but that is a big project). I also closed off the water supply with a plug as close to the floor as I could. 

Here is a photo of the toilet:

We knew the height would be a problem, so we raised the floor and created some more storage underneath. 

Finally, the completed project:

So after using it for a week - when it was half built, I believe we will like it. 
For composting toilets the pee goes into a separate container that you dump daily. (Just like peeing in the woods or dumping it into a toilet). The poo goes into a composting medium- peat moss or coco core. Which dries it out and composts it. About once a week or two, you change out.