Rocketman3

Post a picture of your rear electrical bay. That often helps

Hello everyone, I broke one of the pins on the fuel door - so now it is being held on with one pin and the lock. Anyone have a clue where to get one? The door (one the outside measures about 8” wide and 8.5” tall), once I find it then I’ll need to get it painted it’s black-ish color to match. Thanks

Passenger side - look for like four wires connected to a module - my guess is a foot over and a foot up.

This is your fan resister pack it has has failed. on my 2000 Dynasty I opened the generator compartment, then on the left side of the generator twisted my arm up and it was there. good Luck

I thought I did a writeup on it - but the search says I didn’t… Here is what I remember… I got a Fisher & Paykel- bottom freezer - 2 doors for fridge - no ice maker. It was taller and slightly narrower than the old 1200. Ordered from Best Buy and had the two beefy delivery guys take it through the front door (chairs out and door wide open) and fridge doors off. As I was looking at fridges, the size came down to two companies- Samsung and Fisher & Paykel- Samsung lately seemed to be having quality issues… I asked my Brother-in-law an appliance repair guy - he said stay away from Samsung and you will like the Fisher & Paykel until you need to order parts - then it will take a while… I have my furnace below the fridge, so to gain the height needed I needed to lower the furnace. It was 3-1/2” up on a 2x4. The furnace is rated to sit on the floor- so I moved it down. The two holes out (air & exhaust) I moved down - the top one went into the bottom and I drilled a new bottom hole. Used the plug and filled and caulked the top hole. Then got an aluminum plate to cover the area - kinda like the original. Then we reinstalled the fridge bottom shelf to get the needed height. (My new Kreg Pocket Hole “toy” worked really well to add even more screws). Built a little platform that had wheels on bottom so we could slide the fridge in and out and roll it out of the way easily. Plugged up the top hole to the roof. Added some boards on the sides (with carpet) so the fridge can’t move much side to side.slid it in and screwed it down well on the bottom back plate. Measured and tried a dozen times - then it worked! used big stretch caulk to fill in all the little vent holes on the old access door. Added some oak trim on one side to take up the space and look good. And to keep the doors closed when traveling added some stainless Bimini top strap pads 1” to run some straps through. Ready for travel - Bonus! places to hang nieces new art treasures. Hard to tell that’s not 22 year old oak. The one place I messed up is when we relocated the 120v plug, we put it in a spot so the fridge has to come out 6” or so to unplug it. No issues until the rig went into the shop, then no solar and we were out of it for 2 days. My Lithium’s handled it just fine, I was just nervous. If I could go back - I would relocate the power plug in the furnace area - so I could access it. For power I had already changed out the inverter- my Victron Multiplus 12/3000 stays on 24/7 and doesn’t use much power. I noticed that Monaco used REALLY big wires for the 12v fridge power - 8ga if I remember correctly. Those wires would support a 600w inverter.i think my fridge runs on under 150w when it is cooling- you will need more for the locked rotor amps to start - but how much more - I don’t know. i added 400w of solar at the time I did the fridge install as my guess of how much additional power it should use. I think I was close. My current setup 1400w of solar, Lithium DIY 12v 544ah battery, Multiplus Inverter 12/3000. All the power I need until the clouds roll in - then the generator needed exercise anyway… We full-time and boondock most of the time. It was not a difficult install- We had three people for moving the fridges in and out of the hole. Good Luck with whatever decision you make.

If you go Residential you will love the Fridge - more room inside and more consistent temps. I used a Fisher and Paykel (ordered from Best Buy). When I added the residential I also added 400w of solar (two 200w panels and a Victron 100/30 mppt solar charge controller). That seemed to be about right - just for the added fridge load. You could also get a smaller inverter just for the fridge. we full-time and boondock most of the time. if you decide to go this route- let me know and I can send photos and things I learned from my install. Our rigs are both Dynasty’s and only one year apart - so probably very close. Good Luck!

Yea that line in my post above is accurate…☹️. Probably need to have someone with Cummins software scan it.

I doubt it (without replacing the inverter)- because it uses programs (assistants) in both the Cerbo (computer) and the Multiplus (inverter/charger). Here is one of three videos that discuss how to set it up and program it. There are several slightly different ways. Adam’s channel has the other two as well - his use is for a home - but RV would work too. Now if you really wanted/needed to do this - here is a list of equipment that would be needed for MotorHome :(all Victron stuff): shunt - Smartshunt or BMV712 inverter - MultiPlus 12/3000 2x120v GX device - Cerbo (and touch) solar if needed (really can use any solar charge controllers) Smart MPPT Solar charge controllers - (sized for your array). plus a few connector data cables.

How do I do that?

Hello everyone Yesterday and today while going abt 60mph with the Cruise control on, I had a momentary decrease in power, I looked down and the warning light was lit for about 1 second. I checked on my Silverleaf and I have the following: ENG PID 94 42 Fuel delivery pressure- Abnormal change The rig ran fine for about 5 hrs (mostly on cruise) and ran fine for abt 1 hrs after with cruise off. How do I find details on this PID? I seem to be lost on the Cummins site. Notes: 2000 Dynasty ISC350. I have installed the FASS and the fuel pressure was 16 or 17 psi both times (right in the normal range). thanks

It could but… You need an expert on your inverter to know if there is an easy way to reduce your 120v grid usage other than flipping the pedestal breaker off. i have changed out my inverter to a Victron Multiplus. Let me give you a the two ways to handle that in the Victron system and maybe you can translate them to your system. 1. I can easily change the inverter from “On” to “inverter only”. This ignores the grid power. So the solar charges the batteries and the 12v and inverter uses the power. Manual process with all the limitations of the battery bank and inverter size. 2. With Victron system that includes a shunt, inverter and GX Device (Cerbo- master communications device), I can setup some “assistants” (internal programs) that can automatically change the inverter from “On” to “inverter only” depending on criteria. So if the loads go over _____watts (user setable) for 1 second the inverter pulls from the grid, or when the batteries get below ______% state of charge, the inverter switches on - so it charges the battery. You also have to setup the parameters to turn it back to inverter only too. Then you set a bypass so if you start the generator when boondocking it can charge up and will not just ignore the power. I haven’t done it yet because it involves running a pair of wires between the GX device and the inverter (and that will be a bit of a chore in my rig). And we usually boondock and are not in campgrounds. The other thing this does is it keeps the batteries not at 100% which will be a good thing for my Lithium’s. FYI - I have 1500w of solar Edit: I forgot to add one important item - the Victron inverter has an assisting mode so it can assist the grid. But it probably can’t help offset the air conditioners without massive expenditures.

As a Victron user for over 5 years on my 2000 Dynasty- yes the Multiplus II 12/3000 2x120v would be a very nice direct replacement for the inverter that was in my rig. i wired mine up with a regular Multiplus 12/3000 (because that unit was not out yet). Additional stuff needed, you will need to change the AC input limits: (one of the following): 1. VE.Bus Smart Dongle (with this you change on your phone in an app) 2. Cerbo and Touch - awesome display for inside the rig that puts all info at your fingertips (and can also allow changes from internet w/VRM). 3. There is a DSU- but get one of the other ones instead. There are some great features that the Multiplus has. One that I used a lot this Winter RVing in Baja, the power was very poor in one park, so my Watchman kept dropping the power as voltage drop below 106v, I didn’t even notice the dropped power if I didn’t hear the click from the transfer switch. I just kept the AC power input at 7.5amps to not stress the parks grid, when power came back - the charger slowly recharged if needed. We used the microwave during that with no issues. If you have any Victron questions- let me know.

I can’t help you where yours battery boost is - sometimes it is called a BIRD - My unit 2000 it is in the rear run bay. I was able to keep the Battery Boost because it has its own solenoid in my rig. A few years later they used a BIRD relay to cover bi-directional charging and boost. I think some people disabled the automatic charging to make it work. I completely separated the engine battery side from the house (lithium) side - then added back in a Dc-Dc charger. can you take a photo of your rear run bay?

I have 544ah of a DIY LifePo4 battery, the Multiplus 12/3000, 1400w of solar for house, 100w solar for chassis battery. I think a great low frequency inverter of about 3000va is just right for the MotorHome. I can run the convention microwave without even thinking about it. Although only one large draw item at a time. Fridge (residential), Starlink, computers just run. i put a MicroAire EZ start on my air conditioners. I can run the bedroom one for about an hour on the inverter, then I either need to turn it off or start the generator- otherwise the battery will not have enough until Solar is good the next day. anyway - enough of my rambling Good Luck!

One video you should probably watch is YouTube AZExpert This Video he talks about installing. He says next weeks will be all about the stuff he does so it charges correctly. He is an RV repair guy in AZ. He has a Beaver about our same age. One thing about Dc-Dc charger - mine is a 30amp - which makes it really slow to recharge if the battery is down a ways - 300 ah down divided by 30amps = 10 hrs of drive time - way too much. But it does help. This summer Victron will have one that is 50amp. If you put in a Victron Multiplus inverter/charger - it will charge at like 100 or 120amps - which on my 544ah battery is about .2C rate - I don’t want to charge any faster than that - and I still have solar going in. So if you go that route you won’t need a charger. What batteries are you getting?

Issue#2 - the bms will not help with this. Because the charging from the alternator is 14.4-ish that is below the bms overvoltage cutoff- so the cells keep “overcharging”. This is very hard - but not deadly to the lithium battery. Issue#3 how close is close… There are some ranges that work with lithium- but the float must be within the proper range (as the battery manufacturer states). Here is what I did: Broke the electric connection so my alternator doesn’t charge the lithium - later added a Victron Dc-Dc charger. My inverter had died so I replaced it with a Victron Multiplus 12/3000 - fully adjustable lithium settings are included. solar - used Victron smartsolar mppt’s- they work great. Boost - haven’t needed it yet - but the plan is to just use it to recharge the battery. Generator - mine came attached to the engine battery - if my generator is on and I start the MotorHome - it kills the generator (and that is hard on the generators electronics). I use the Victron Bmv712 for the monitoring.

With Lithium batteries (in MotorHomes) there are several issues you need to solve (there are several solutions for each issue). Overall, you need at least one good charging source that charges the battery how it wants. Issue#1. The alternator … in most MotorHomes the alternator is connected to the house battery with thick cables through either a BIRD or a dual charger (w/a Duvac alternator). The issue is the battery (when low) can take massive numbers of amps and you can overheat the alternator. This can destroy the alternator. Issue#2. Alternator pt2. If your house battery is full and your drive is not, you could be charging the lithium battery at 14.4-ish volts when it is full for hours on end. This is very hard on the lithium battery. Issue#3. 120v Charger. Your 120v charger may or may not have a lithium setting. If no lithium setting you may need to replace or accept a different charging strategy. Make sure the temperature compensation and equalization are both turned OFF. One issue is when at an RV park the float charge on many chargers is too high. issue#4 solar. Your solar because it is on all the time should have the lithium setting. Issue#5 Boost starting. Many MotorHome have a boost feature - where you can use the house to help start the big diesel engine. The FET’s in the bms cannot handle the large amp draw of the engine starting. You can hit the boost to “recharge” the engine battery, but be sure and turn it off before trying to start the big engine. Issue#6 generator. Many generators use the house battery to start - others use the chassis. You may need to move it, or have a large enough bms (usually several batteries in parallel) to handle the start. Issue#7 - monitoring. The old 4 led battery monitor will no longer work. You should have a shunt based battery monitor. I use a Victron BMV712 (or Smartshunt), Magnum also has a shunt. Good Luck

I have the gen2 dish. $145/month (Grandfatherd resident plan + mobility - basically the same as Roaming plan). it is usually on a ladder pole mount. I think the in-motion plan requires a much more expensive plan. I have been using it for a while - as long as we are not under a lot of trees - it works great!

After you get the emergency of a charge into the battery… you need to figure out why that happened. You probably have a “BIRD” system that is supposed to keep both sets of batteries charged. You probably need to troubleshoot it. If you start the generator - are both batteries being charged? if you plug the rig into shore power (15amps is fine) are both batteries being charged? And then, when your big diesel motor is running- are both batteries being charged?

Maybe make it from wood (3/8”plywood - then put fiberglass on it - like if it was for a boat. There are a couple of RV salvage yards that may be able to help too.

If your old screen (brother) is nearby… call some local glass installation companies- the ones that repair glass windows. Using the old one as a template- they may be able to make a nice new one for you.

We full-time in our RV. I have 1400w of solar. Plenty in summer - spring & fall usually it’s enough- winter it’s barely enough in AZ with panels tilted. A lot depends where you live. You could buy a large solar charge controller and wire it up to your rig - then if you ever need it (have instructions already figured out) unplug part of the house and plug into the rig. As was said above - a lot depends on how your house solar is engineered - it could be easy - it could be difficult. you could also look into adding a house battery- then on normal days - charge battery during the day - then use battery in the evening and night. Good Luck

Go talk to a few (Not-Cummins) Diesel mechanics in your area. They may be slow right now because the farming is in winter so you may be able to get them to do the install. Good Luck

I would not put solid wire 12-2 romex into the movement part of the slide. Our Marine neighbors use a stranded 12ga for 110v wire (the kind that is rated for high voltage). I don’t know the letter codes. I think a 12 ga “extension cord” would be much better than romex.

I installed the Fisher-Paykel counter depth fridge in my 2000 Dynasty - we really like the fridge. Got it special ordered from Best Buy. For install - I had to drop the furnace 3-1/2” - it was mounted on the 2x4 - so I removed the 2x4 put in on the floor fixed the inlet and exhaust- then I could lower the shelf and the fridge would fit. to keep it in place added some blocking on the sides and top - so it can only slide in and not tip in or out. Also I added a 3/4” piece of plywood under the back between the wheels. Then when the fridge was in place drove screws through the bottom metal fridge plate into the wood. It has held great! a little trim on the sides and it looks good My brother-in-law is an appliance repair guy and I asked him his opinion on the Samsung and Fisher& Paykel - he said stay away from Samsung… and you will love the Fisher &Paykel until you have to order parts - then it will take a while. good luck