Rocketman3

What about your power steering pump - is any noise related to turning the wheel?

Some Ace stores have the door switches in stock (that’s where I got mine when it died).

I found the oem conduit chase on the drivers side had the least amount of wires in it. I opened it up (removed the spray foam), then I have some 2’ fiberglass rods that screw together (from Amazon) put them in and got it through. Pulled a rope through and tied it up on both ends. (left the rope). Later, I was able to get the fuel return line plus two sets of wire lines pulled through. I left the rope in and resealed the conduit - just in case I need another at some point. But it is getting harder to get stuff through.

I used ISSOPRO for my dash gauges. Fuel pressure and pyrometer. I used gloshift for the mechanical gauge in the rear. I liked the ISSOPRO because I could select ones that looked like they matched the original gauges. Also I had them make me “special” harness, at 50 foot (for my 36’ rig). I cut off less than 2 feet on the fuel pressure and cut-off about 8 to 10 feet on the pyrometer. you will need a snobber for the fuel pressure

The biggest issue (in my opinion) is NOT the inverters or the SCC (solar charge controller), it is the alternator. Currently (if your rig is standard), the alternator will charge the lithiums whenever the engine is on. This can cause two problems. 1. The batteries will take all the current your alternator will provide. This will cause the alternator to run at 100% until the battery is full or the alternator overheats and dies. 2. Lithium’s do not like to be kept at 14.x (14.0 to 14.4volts) all the time. They like to be charged full, maybe an absorbing charge for a little while, then the charger turned off - or at least dropped to a float voltage of 13.5v. There are a few ways of solving these two issues. 1. What I did was to break the connection between the alternator and house bank. Now the alternator no longer charges the lithium’s. I did add a 30a Victron Dc-Dc non-isolated charger. This will charge my lithium’s at 30 amps when the engine is running. That is pretty slow. If your 400a bank was down 210a (just over half down), that would take 7 hours of driving to recharge. 2. There are some devices that will turn the alternator charging on and off so it gives the alternator time to cool down. LiFePO4 Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) is one I have heard good things about) Depending on your rig, the engine battery gets topped off when there is excess current in the house battery (like when you are plugged in), you need to make sure this gets worked out if it gets disconnected when fixing the alternator issues. Now once you solve the alternator issues… The RV-45D solar charge controller, There may be settings that will “ kinda work” for the lithiums, but I would consider replacing it with a Victron MPPT 100/30. That will handle your 400w of solar. (Or maybe go more solar and get a bigger SCC). (See below on temp compensation and equalization - they MUST be disabled. The same with the inverters- there may be a settings that will work - Gell might be close enough… but you MUST disable the temperature compensation and the equalization. Both can charge the lithium’s WAY too high of voltage. in my opinion you want the most common charging source for how you use your rig to treat the lithium’s exactly how they want to be charged. This could be as simple as disabling the charger part of the Trace’s, and adding a dedicated 120v lithium battery charger. My trace inverter was dying on me so I replaced it with a Victron Multiplus inverter/charger. Later when I put in the lithium’s- I just adjusted it to the lithium settings I wanted. Good Luck. (Sorry for such a long post).

In my 2000 dynasty I have 2 continuous relays that are switched by the salesman switch. Ones goes to the domestic 12v fuse panel in the back. The other goes to the drivers lower fuses. I also had that same relay die on me too. Later I changed out the continuous relays and replaced them with Victron Smart Battery protect (BP-65). I did this for two reasons first to reduce the continuous electrical draw (we full-time in our rig). The second is to prevent a complete battery drain if the battery gets low- it shuts off at 11.5v (I set that voltage). Good Luck!

I just replaced my 4008. It developed a very small weep along the pump seal gasket. After 6 months of use (we full-time) it was happening more and more often… the weep finally developed into a small drip, so we found it and pulled it.

One place to start is to verify the battery maintainer is charging the chassis batteries. After you have been sitting for a while, put a multimeter on the chassis battery. Is the voltage showing what you would expect if the maintainer is running as it should? good luck!

Whenever I drive I have it on. My laptop screen can fold completely back so then it is like a tablet. Then I use a Ram mount for a tablet. I have a usb mouse and usb keyboard in case I need to do something (like add fuel). I have mine mounted to the left side - just left of the A pillar. It partially covers the top left switch’s on the dash - but I don’t use those switches much while driving- fans, fog lights, block heater. No one outside the rig can see the screen to know what’s on it. Because it’s a Ram mount I often take it down when parked - because I want to play on the computer. I figure if a cop stops me I can show him the screen - speed, temp, etc isn’t going to get him excited. The speedometer on the rig is wildly off (often 15 mph high). The silver leaf matches the Garmin so I use it for speed. A picture is worth a 1000 words….

I put a silver leaf on my rig, and I LOVE the additional info I get from it. It does read the engine codes too. I believe Bluefire (or something like that does the same thing but with Bluetooth rather than old serial port stuff. The only error codes I have had were related to the throttle position sensor (I got it replaced), but it was very nice knowing why I got the warning light and then I knew what to do to reset it for the computer (a certain procedure of slowly completely depressing the throttle 3x).

On my 2000 Dynasty the electrical drawings show the relay is either inside the main 120v breaker box (under the outside cover) or just to it’s side (I don’t remember which). My block heater outlet is a GFI - I have had several times where it just trips. Push the button back in and it’s running again for a while. No clue what causes it to trip.

On my 2000 dynasty - I have HWH SLide. We we were having a leak on one - so we pulled them out and took them to a hydraulic shop. There was the right and left and an equalizer cylinder. There were instructions on how to get it back in sync. check and see if you have any leaks Good Luck

Do a search on this site for “See level “. Look for a thread called something like “See level gauge and propane”. It has pictures of my install plus a couple of others. If I remember correctly one was a Diplomat. You place one green sensor on each of the tanks (probably 6” for grey & black & 12” for fresh) then one set of wires goes to each monitor. I added a monitor in my wet bay - awesome for dumping and filling!

The sensors on my 2000 dynasty, were at the expected heights. So if you are cleaning your tank from the inside you will want it full-ish. My original system died, I replaced it with a Seelevel II by Garnet. Works much better! Gives accurate % and levels every 3 or 4%. So 53% 56% 60%. I also added another display in my wet bay. Second best upgrade done!

The YouTube that installed system spend a LOT on the batteries! Almost all of them go for Battle Born batteries and put in way more than I would. Most of them put in Victron equipment. Victron is a tier 1 supplier (meaning really good equipment that will last, good support &warranty UL listed, etc). If you have never heard of the brand - it’s probably Tier 3. (Cheap Chinese stuff that will last an unknown time, no real support or warranty). There are times and places for all three tiers of manufacturing. But for me my electrical equipment on my MotorHome will be tier 1. Batteries… I self built my battery from eight Lishen 272ah cells I got directly from China. It was lots cheaper than any other lithium battery. Now some less expensive lithiums are close. Battle Born are still super expensive! But they offer a 10yr warranty. I enjoyed building my battery. The only thing I would do differently is go to 24v for the battery and inverter- but that wasn’t possible with the way things happened for me. I made a blog post about my battery install. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/batrium-watchmon-install.17539/ Good Luck

Since you mentioned air conditioning… To run an Air Conditioner off of battery this is a list of needed items: First is a inverter that can handle it - My Multiplus 12/3000 can do it. (But just barely). Second, you need to reduce the startup surge. A soft start or replace a current A/C with a model that has a soft start. We replaced our rear A/C with a Rec-Pro (it has a built in soft start). Our old one wasn’t working well. Third, a massive battery pack. We have a self-built 540ah 12v lithium battery. For us I figure if the battery starts out full- we can run the A/C for an hour. (Really a little over two hours- but I leave margin in the battery). The final problem is recharging the battery. I have 1220w of solar. I never get 1000w of power in for more than a few moments- 800 is typical in good conditions- Because the panels are flat. A drained battery will take two good solar days to recharge. I also have a residential fridge and run Starlink when parked, plus computers, etc. So I only run the A/C (on battery) for an hour before bed - to cool down the bedroom. Any longer and I run the generator. With the generator I can run both A/C’s. I didn’t plan my system to run the Air Conditioner. It just kinda happened that I barely can. The only thing I did to make it happen is move the rear A/C breaker from the main breaker box to the inverter breaker box. If I was going to design the system to run the A/C here are a few things I would adjust. The inverter battery would be 24 or 48v. The amps required to run the A/C on 12v are massive! (Yes that means two voltage systems for the house power). A bigger battery would be nice and more solar. Good Luck with whatever you decide.

Yes I believe the fan is turning properly. when I startup the fan is barely turning. When I stop when traveling (engine temp 185 or so - it is really blowing). It sounds really loud when the engine is hot.

Hello everyone, I am thinking I need a new radiator on my rig. I have a 2000 dynasty with 103,000 miles. It runs (cools) just fine when the outside temps are below 80 degrees. However, if the temps are higher and we are climbing hills, I watch the temps on my silver leaf rise to over 210+ and the “chirping” noise starts and the “high water temp” lights up. It has been happening more and more often. When I first got the rig - it never happened- now I watch the heat carefully- downshift early, etc to keep the heat levels down . I have sprayed the radiator out the best I can several times - doesn’t seem to help…. I just figure after 22 years the cooling channels are no longer as efficient. I will be in Oregon soon, so I called Source Engineering, they wanted to verify the radiator number on the build sheet is the actual one that was installed before they order it. They said there is a tag on the radiator. Does anyone know where to find the tag and what it looks like? Should I also have the CAC replaced at the same time, what about the transmission cooler? Thanks

Duh!!! I confused myself think I was on the DIY Solar Forum. Of course on this site it’s on an RV… (and a Monaco too). Let me rephrase part of the above answer. The cheap inverter will be a problem connecting it to your power system. (It can be done - but very careful thought needs to take place). (Also make sure any inverter you put in handles the N-G bond correctly - this is a life saving and equipment saving issue). In our rigs - I would highly recommend a Victron Multiplus II and then run the 120v wires from the transfer switch to the Multiplus II and then on to the circuit breaker panels. (in the process removing the old inverter). I would also look at the 24v batteries if possible. There is a new Multiplus II 24v coming out soon. The microwave uses a LOT of amps at 12v. (I would love to have that 24v Multiplus II). I have a 36’ rig with six 200w panels. One more would fit(maybe two). But to get ten 200w panels you would have to add a grid above the vents, fans, a/c’s, etc. Then if you do that, you can get bigger cheaper panels. But if you just attach the panels right to the roof - the 200w size is a good size- but I doubt you will fit 10 on a roof. i use continuous resources as my solar and Victron dealer. if I was redoing my rig (again) -this is the Victron equipment I would use: Multiplus II 24/3000 24v lithium battery (check the bms in it carefully). Victron MPPT (sized for the solar installed). As much solar as I could fit (I have 1220w and I would like a bit more). Victron Cerbo and touch. (probably a 12v to 24v DC-DC Charger). But it all depends on how we use our rigs and what we want them to do.

You can still get everything from one vendor look up continuous resources.com or Arizona wind and sun or any number of other resellers. I think the gold standard is Victron (just not their batteries- although they are good too). My concern with the above Amazon kit: cheap inverter - this is the heart of the system. cheap solar charge controller- the other heart. batteries and panels are probably fine. But with panels you would probably be better (price wise) either going used or going to higher watts - like 330w. Also Amazon will give you zero support- going with a real reseller you have someone very knowledgeable at the other end of the phone or email. You mention full-timers - is this for an RV? (If so there are still several holes - other things you will need). If for an RV - look at Victron. If this is for an RV - getting 10 200w panels on the roof will be a challenge.

Hello everyone! I am still having an occasional issue with the FASS pump losing prime on startup. It has happened four (or so) times since I installed the pump. it has happened on a 1/3 tank and full tank. I have completely redone the FASS startup procedures (including the WD40 spay into the pump). That’s how I got it restarted w/ Cubflyers advise (above). Last time, Full tank, we were at a campground for 5 days, startup twice no issues (air-up, then move off wheel risers), drove 6 min to dump station, at dump station for 20-ish min. When going to leave the issue happens. when it turn the key to ignition on, my fuel pressure gauge starts up, and then over the next few seconds I can watch the pressure drop to zero. What I have been doing is hitting the starter as soon as I see the pressure start to drop. The engine starts up and then a few seconds later I can see the pressure rise to the normal 18-ish psi. Once running- never an issue. I have checked for fuel leaks and I don’t see any. I also have a mechanical gauge in the engine compartment and it always matches the electronic one in the dash. Any ideas…

My 2000 Dynasty has a 10a fuse in the front electrical bay.

I had something similar happen once, for “small” loads everything was fine, when large load came on, the neutral was not making good enough contact. I figured the female electrical ends were a bit loose, I reset the plugs and the error went away and didn’t come back. (This was on my adapters as I went from 15amp to 30 to 50 (my watchdog) then into the rig).

Assuming your battery maintainer is working when the green light is on… Your chassis battery may be about wore out. Have you tested the “boost” switch recently? That can also put power back into the chassis battery to help start the rig. Good Luck

I have the RVi2 (older unit- so it may not be the same). I have a connection plug that I plug into the MotorHome’s 7-wire trailer connect and 6 wire (or 4-wire) that plugs into my Jeep. That wires goes back to the Jeeps driver rear tail light where I have a Hopkins’s(???) brand connector that was plug -n-play. It delivers turn signals, running lights, and brake signals (but not 3rd brake light) to the Jeep tail lights. I got them from e-trailer. if the RVI2 brake engages the petal, then I get the 3rd brake light. My front display controller is dying (but it’s still running), when it completely dies I am planning on replacing it with Demco Air Force One instead of the RVi3.