Rocketman3

I cut the fridge in half… don’t cut the back - you will release the gasses. All I cut was sheet metal, foam, plastic, and a few wires. straight down the sides in the middle. good Luck

FYI- Victron can do it with 2 devices… 1. Battery Monitor- Smartshunt or BMV712. 2. GX device - such as Cerbo or Venus or CCGX Then you set up on VRM. And you can see the status of all your Victron equipment and system. Here is my current snapshot - granted I am in my rig (11pm), but I can just as easy be anywhere- the only thing my rig needs is it’s internet connection(Starlink), or a connection to a WiFi. Now this is probably overkill if all you want to check on is the battery monitor- an internet camera might make more sense, but because I already had the equipment- there was no additional costs for me. (If it wasn’t 11pm I could see the solar watts that are being produced).

One device that helped me really understand the batteries is a Victron Smartshunt (or BMV712). This is a shunt based battery monitor (costs abt $130). It let’s me know what percentage my batteries are - I.e. 72%. This is really good for recharging lead batteries- cause then you know - if you need to recharge and when to stop the generator. Also, to help with your current question of why did the AGS start? It has a trend feature that records the data. So for example, I just ran my microwave off the inverter for lunch. I can see my voltage before was 14.25v (my batteries were in the absorbing phase), then dropping to abt 13.35v while it was running- then climbed back up. You don’t need to be looking at it to see those numbers- it reports it in the graph- after the event is over. with the correct data you can then decide if the AGS is set too high, or if it needs a delay added (if it’s possible with your unit). It is easy to install - attach a cable to the most negative battery terminal- attach that cable to the battery side of the shunt and move all the other negative cables to the load side of the shunt. (That way all power into or out of the battery goes through the shunt). Attach a small power wire - and your done. Now if you already have another brand of shunt based battery monitor- maybe it can tell you what happened. Good Luck

I really like this post and want a secret wire too…

For prevention… I really don’t know if it working or not - but we haven’t had any mice for a couple of years (knocking on all the nice oak in our dynasty). my wife got two electric mice deterrents. 120v one “Riddex plus” we full time with inverter on 24/7. (From Amazon) 2 C battery deterrent - evidently the company wasn’t very proud of their device - no name on it. Plus she has Irish Spring soap in the bays The theory is they emit sounds the mice don’t like - not enough to drive them from a nice home - but enough to make them keep looking for a home. we found one nest in a furnace heater line that went under the cabinets- the funny thing is that line has no where to blow out - must have been for a different option at the factory. Good Luck in your cleanup.

To me this would be a pass… (to add to a MotorHome). 1. The lithiums are only 100ah @ 24v. That’s equivalent to a 200ah 12v battery- not a very big battery. 2. This would just be “additional equipment” on your MotorHome- you probably could not remove anything. 3. it would take more stuff to make it work seem less in the RV. 4. to add solar to your rig, it would probably be better to pick out the panels for the perfect size for your roof. Now it this is for a shed, etc… maybe…

On my 2000 Dynasty, I suddenly got a dreaded water leak in the cabinets above the drivers seat. When looking for it I discovered the problem at the satellite dish. So off it came. Previously, we had redone the roof with Dicor’s product, so you can see the outline very well. I just zip tied the cables to the horn… I probably should deal with those someday. The new roof space soon found another solar panel. (To help with the Starlink being on 24/7 - except when traveling). Don’t be afraid to take it off. Good Luck

We also have Starlink - it has been great! We got a Peplink from MobileMust Have with a Verizon data card, and it worked good (but always a bit slow), we also have a nice roof antenna. Last year we got Starlink, and it has worked so great I just turned off the Verizon data card. We do WiFi calling and tons on data (I still work part time). We used Starlink in our travels to British Columbia- fun fact - at Prince George the Starlink points South instead of North. We also used it last winter all up and down Baja. currently we are in the mountains of Utah where there is no cell signal - but Starlink, iphone, and Verizon does a very nice WiFi calling. Usually it goes on our ladder with a Flag Pole Buddy setup. We also have the 150’ cable as well as the supplied 75’ cable. So far have always had signal. A few times in very tall trees - the signal was not so great - but then we just used our phones data. Usually signals are 100mb downloads and 10-12 upload - but over the last week I have seen a low of 50 down 8 up and a high of 221 down and 15 up. Cost is $150/month - but you can turn it off when not RV - so no charges during months you don’t use it. For RV’s I think Starlink has arrived.

That is a nice bumper… What I did… (maybe it gives you some ideas). I replaced the bumper with an aluminum Rockhard 4x4 bumper. Take a look at them. My father &I did all the work ourselves. I like this attachment option because the hooks that attach to whatever tow bar I buy are bolted through the bumper and right on the frame. Very Solid! I use the red D-rings for the safety chains. The tow bar brackets that go below the bumper I felt might get damaged on the trail- and didn’t look great. Rockhard4x4 has stubby bumpers like yours. (on the right side on top of the bumper you can see the breakaway switch, the left side on top of the bumper is the air supply for AirForce1 brake system, and to the right of the left side red D-ring I’d the light connection- I used a round 6-wire instead of the standard 4-wire because I thought it would be better). You need to make sure the tow bar is basically level. I used a 2” rise until I lifted my Jeep now it’s a 6” rise (from Roadmaster). The light kit I got from e-trailer. Simple to install- open the taillights - insert the harness by unplugging light - plug in harness and replug the light. - the hardest part(which is not hard) is running the wires up front. The BlueOx tow bar came with the MotorHome. So I used it - unfortunately it failed 20 miles outside of Anchorage. Luckily it failed in such a way that the Jeep was no longer locked on both arms - just one arm. So towing straight & up was fine, but when going downhill the Jeep would hit the Non locked section and bump at the fully compressed part. Hearing strange bumps, I saw the Jeep was out of position- too close and too right side - got pulled over and the only damage was the ruined tow bar. Got a beefier tow bar ordered in 10,000lbs instead of 7500lbs. And it has been working fine since. If you decide to use a used bar be careful. BlueOx recommends servicing annually or so and replacing after 7(???) years. Brake system. With the RV came the brake system RVI Brake System 2. It was discontinued when we bought the rig(the #3 was out). After a few years the display module started dying. So we replaced it with the Air Force 1 brake system. I like the new system much better because it applies the brakes every time I do. - easier to setup and take down. (Did most of the work myself- but had the RV mechanic do the air & brake lines when I had it in for its service). Be careful and thoughtful about the towing. That is one area you don’t want problems. Good Luck!

Battery boost problem goes to the type of bms you have in the batteries multiplied by the number of batteries. if you use the boost to “recharge” the starting battery for 10min or so - no problem. However if you want to hit the starter - you need to know your overall capacities. My diesel engine wants something like 900 to 1000 CCA (cold cranking amps) for the battery. If your lithium bms can only deliver 100amps by spec, and you don’t want to take it to 100% - so let’s derate it 20% - now have 80amps available- multiply by say six batteries- that only gives 480amps for starting. That may be enough for the generator- but not for the main engine. Now if your bms is rated at 200 amps - 20% derate would be 160amps - times four batteries is 640amps. Still a bit low. But maybe with the starting battery and a warmer engine- you might be ok or you could blow the FETs in the bms. One of the issues is the Locked Rotor Amps needed to start the starter turning - takes a lot of energy for that initial hit of power That is why the manufacturers say you can’t use them as a starter battery. With enough batteries you could… but…

We have topped it off several times, but then the system shows signs of coolant coming out when hot. You are probably right an air pocket somewhere… I have the Volvo tank.

Hello Everyone, 2000 Dynasty ISC - Last year I had the engine oil cooler fail - got a bit of oil in the coolant (but no coolant in the oil 🙂 ). The shop replaced the oil cooler, flushed the coolant lines, and put new coolant in the system. Now I am having “strange” behavior at startup and shutdown. When the engine is warm and running the coolant seems to be at the proper level in the tank. However, after shutting down the engine the coolant “disappears” and there is not much in the tank. The “low coolant sensor” is completely dry, so I get a low coolant warning when I startup. It will stay on about as long as my air tanks take to fill up (sometimes a bit longer), but by the time I start driving it is off and plenty of coolant in the tank. I have had the rig for over four years and it never did that until the coolant was changed and now it does it every time. Any ideas???

Ok … how do you do the data logging on the Silverleaf VMSpec?

When I added my FASS pump to my 2000 Dynasty (ISC), I also added the EGT gauge and a gauge for the fuel pressure after all the filters. Ran those wires at the same time. I used ISSPRO gauges, they matched the look of my other gauges pretty good. I have really liked the EGT gauge because I think it helps me drive better in the mountains (a lot of my time is spend in Utah mountains). The other item that really helps it my Silverleaf computer because it shows the exact engine temp and the engine load. All those help me drive better in the mountains.

I diy-ed my own 544ah battery (eight Lishen 272ah cells (2p4s)), with a Batrium BMS. I had previously changed out my inverter to a Victron 12/3000, plus solar (800w w/ Victron mppt). We full-time in our 2000 Dynasty. You need to prevent charging when the batteries are below 32 degrees. I insulated the battery box the best I could. (Changed out starting battery to AGM). Insulated around lithium battery and a 12v heat pad (waste tank heating pad) below the battery have kept my batteries about 40 deg, when it has been in the high 20’s at night. Also my Victron Smartshunt has a temperature monitor so it tells my Multiplus and solar mppt’s to NOT charge if the battery is below about 38 degrees. Next, I broke the charging connection to the alternator - took out the dual battery isolator. (I later added a Dc-dc charger so the alternator could help charge the batteries- but that is not necessary). You need at least one of your charging sources to be ideal for lithium- battery charger or solar. That way occasionally you can bring the battery up to a full charge so the bms can balance the cells. Wildly Unbalanced cells are bad! As far a which battery I would recommend… if my Dad decided to add lithiums, I would go with Li-ion energy’s UT1300. I have looked at those batteries at RV shows - and I like them. One other item, make sure you have enough batteries to provide the current your inverter needs. If that is at least 300 amps - three 100a batteries with 100a bms or two 200a batteries with 150a bms’s (or more). In my case I need 400a of current through my 4/0 cables. You also need to track the state of charge of the batteries. It should be a shunt-based monitor. Good Luck with your project!

Hello everyone, I just installed a composting toilet into my 2000 Dynasty. It is an Ogo Toilet. Part of the reason for the install is because our cheap RV toilet started to have problems (again). Had to install a cheap toilet because the original nice porcelain had problems at the beginning of Covid - and the supply of them was gone - so it was a cheap or or nonthing. Cheap worked for over 2 years. composting toilets are not for most RVers. To be worthwhile, you must spend most of the time away from dump stations. We full-time and boondock almost all the time. Just for those that may consider this option. The toilet ring sticks up just under 1/2” above the tile. Because I wanted to retain the capacity to re-add the RV toilet, I put a test plug in the sewer line to plug it up, and laid a 1/2” piece of plywood over the tile. Fastened it down and put some laminate floor-tile over the plywood. (This is the floor tile we will use when we re-floor the whole MotorHome- but that is a big project). I also closed off the water supply with a plug as close to the floor as I could. Here is a photo of the toilet: We knew the height would be a problem, so we raised the floor and created some more storage underneath. Finally, the completed project: So after using it for a week - when it was half built, I believe we will like it. For composting toilets the pee goes into a separate container that you dump daily. (Just like peeing in the woods or dumping it into a toilet). The poo goes into a composting medium- peat moss or coco core. Which dries it out and composts it. About once a week or two, you change out.

There is an easier solution for the dog taking off the park brake… Just have enough air leaks that the air pressure drops to where the brake automatically engages (so it can’t dis-engage).😆

I have purchased from the company listed above. 2000 Dynasty. Got and installed the radio panel - a couple of the screw holes were slightly off - like 1/8” or so- but it works just fine. I also ordered the side panel you were asking about - it arrived and looks good - but that in on a future project to install. They want a photo of your current panel - so it matches. The color was very close - slightly darker (but that could be 23 years of fade). Good Luck!

A couple of other questions: how cold are the batteries? what kind of batteries? Agm, wet- lead acid, gell, lithium? There is a temperature sensor that should be attached to the charger that registers the temperature of the batteries. When it’s cold lead batteries need higher voltages, when it’s hot - they need lower voltages. If the temperature sensor has become disabled (corroded wire leading to an open circuit), it can cause the charger to think it’s like -40 below - and overcharge the batteries. Check the batteries specs and the Charger manual to find out if your temperature boost is normal for the current battery temperature. 15.3v could be high enough to boil off the acid and cause damage or it could be just fine. When it’s at 13.5v it is in float. That is fine and not a problem- (where it should be at after being plugged in for a while). The question is what is the charging cycle looking like???

I removed my salesman switches (I have a 2000), so they were always on. I replaced them with a Victron Smart Battery Protect BP-65. The reason for replacing them is I can set a voltage that they cut-off. So if something gets left on and the battery gets low - they automatically shut off. Also almost no power used. Good Luck with whichever way you choose to solve your problem.

Open the back and find the 12v+ and 12v- and verify you have power to the fridge. Hopefully just a fuse… or wire… Maybe this is your rig’s way of saying it wants a new residential fridge. 😎

I full- time in my 2000 Dynasty. I added 800w of solar with a Victron mppt 100/50. Ran all new wires. Later I needed more solar, so I removed the OEM stuff and added 400w with a Victron 100/30 on the oem original wires. I do not charge the engine battery with the solar. Lately, I have been contemplating adding a 100w panel a small Victron 75/15 and running wires down the back (where the air from the roof feeds the air filter). That seems easier and cheaper than adding a dc-dc charger to charge the engine battery. I don’t know of any current product that will split the solar into two different banks (and two different chemistries). Good Luck with your project!

On my 2000 Dynasty- I have oil bearings. My understanding was it was an ordered option. From what I know about the two prior owners of my rig - I would highly doubt they paid to install them aftermarket- but it would not surprise me if it came that way from the factory.

I have a 2000 dynasty. My issue was the clockspring got dirty- it just needed a couple of really good cleanings. Are your cruise and wipers buttons lighted? Mine are not. If they are lighted you have a four wire clockspring - it is a little cable. (and this would not be your solution). Mine is a 2-wire - it has contacts riding on a brass(?) ring. The ring got dirty over time. what I did to clean it- steering wheel all the way up and flat, took off the plastic shroud. Got some Q-tips and dipped them in denatured alcohol and cleaned the ring. Turned the steering wheel occasionally. First time I did it - it lasted 6 months. Then cleaned it again - even better and it has been a year now. Good Luck!

What a great excuse to get that slightly bigger or smaller or newer rig… 😊 Maybe add a garden hose of water stream into the heater and it will move it to an area you can see. - with my luck it would make it harder to get to… but your luck might be different. Or plug the heater back up and fill then drain it. Good Luck!