Rocketman3

Yes I believe the fan is turning properly. when I startup the fan is barely turning. When I stop when traveling (engine temp 185 or so - it is really blowing). It sounds really loud when the engine is hot.

Hello everyone, I am thinking I need a new radiator on my rig. I have a 2000 dynasty with 103,000 miles. It runs (cools) just fine when the outside temps are below 80 degrees. However, if the temps are higher and we are climbing hills, I watch the temps on my silver leaf rise to over 210+ and the “chirping” noise starts and the “high water temp” lights up. It has been happening more and more often. When I first got the rig - it never happened- now I watch the heat carefully- downshift early, etc to keep the heat levels down . I have sprayed the radiator out the best I can several times - doesn’t seem to help…. I just figure after 22 years the cooling channels are no longer as efficient. I will be in Oregon soon, so I called Source Engineering, they wanted to verify the radiator number on the build sheet is the actual one that was installed before they order it. They said there is a tag on the radiator. Does anyone know where to find the tag and what it looks like? Should I also have the CAC replaced at the same time, what about the transmission cooler? Thanks

Duh!!! I confused myself think I was on the DIY Solar Forum. Of course on this site it’s on an RV… (and a Monaco too). Let me rephrase part of the above answer. The cheap inverter will be a problem connecting it to your power system. (It can be done - but very careful thought needs to take place). (Also make sure any inverter you put in handles the N-G bond correctly - this is a life saving and equipment saving issue). In our rigs - I would highly recommend a Victron Multiplus II and then run the 120v wires from the transfer switch to the Multiplus II and then on to the circuit breaker panels. (in the process removing the old inverter). I would also look at the 24v batteries if possible. There is a new Multiplus II 24v coming out soon. The microwave uses a LOT of amps at 12v. (I would love to have that 24v Multiplus II). I have a 36’ rig with six 200w panels. One more would fit(maybe two). But to get ten 200w panels you would have to add a grid above the vents, fans, a/c’s, etc. Then if you do that, you can get bigger cheaper panels. But if you just attach the panels right to the roof - the 200w size is a good size- but I doubt you will fit 10 on a roof. i use continuous resources as my solar and Victron dealer. if I was redoing my rig (again) -this is the Victron equipment I would use: Multiplus II 24/3000 24v lithium battery (check the bms in it carefully). Victron MPPT (sized for the solar installed). As much solar as I could fit (I have 1220w and I would like a bit more). Victron Cerbo and touch. (probably a 12v to 24v DC-DC Charger). But it all depends on how we use our rigs and what we want them to do.

You can still get everything from one vendor look up continuous resources.com or Arizona wind and sun or any number of other resellers. I think the gold standard is Victron (just not their batteries- although they are good too). My concern with the above Amazon kit: cheap inverter - this is the heart of the system. cheap solar charge controller- the other heart. batteries and panels are probably fine. But with panels you would probably be better (price wise) either going used or going to higher watts - like 330w. Also Amazon will give you zero support- going with a real reseller you have someone very knowledgeable at the other end of the phone or email. You mention full-timers - is this for an RV? (If so there are still several holes - other things you will need). If for an RV - look at Victron. If this is for an RV - getting 10 200w panels on the roof will be a challenge.

Hello everyone! I am still having an occasional issue with the FASS pump losing prime on startup. It has happened four (or so) times since I installed the pump. it has happened on a 1/3 tank and full tank. I have completely redone the FASS startup procedures (including the WD40 spay into the pump). That’s how I got it restarted w/ Cubflyers advise (above). Last time, Full tank, we were at a campground for 5 days, startup twice no issues (air-up, then move off wheel risers), drove 6 min to dump station, at dump station for 20-ish min. When going to leave the issue happens. when it turn the key to ignition on, my fuel pressure gauge starts up, and then over the next few seconds I can watch the pressure drop to zero. What I have been doing is hitting the starter as soon as I see the pressure start to drop. The engine starts up and then a few seconds later I can see the pressure rise to the normal 18-ish psi. Once running- never an issue. I have checked for fuel leaks and I don’t see any. I also have a mechanical gauge in the engine compartment and it always matches the electronic one in the dash. Any ideas…

My 2000 Dynasty has a 10a fuse in the front electrical bay.

I had something similar happen once, for “small” loads everything was fine, when large load came on, the neutral was not making good enough contact. I figured the female electrical ends were a bit loose, I reset the plugs and the error went away and didn’t come back. (This was on my adapters as I went from 15amp to 30 to 50 (my watchdog) then into the rig).

Assuming your battery maintainer is working when the green light is on… Your chassis battery may be about wore out. Have you tested the “boost” switch recently? That can also put power back into the chassis battery to help start the rig. Good Luck

I have the RVi2 (older unit- so it may not be the same). I have a connection plug that I plug into the MotorHome’s 7-wire trailer connect and 6 wire (or 4-wire) that plugs into my Jeep. That wires goes back to the Jeeps driver rear tail light where I have a Hopkins’s(???) brand connector that was plug -n-play. It delivers turn signals, running lights, and brake signals (but not 3rd brake light) to the Jeep tail lights. I got them from e-trailer. if the RVI2 brake engages the petal, then I get the 3rd brake light. My front display controller is dying (but it’s still running), when it completely dies I am planning on replacing it with Demco Air Force One instead of the RVi3.

Hello everyone! A few weeks ago I added a FASS pump to my ISC (2000 Dynasty - 350HP), at that time I also added fuel pressure and pyrometer gauges. I used ISSOPRO Gauges. Today’s question is on the pyrometer. I installed the sensor pre-turbo. The temperatures seem a bit high to my understanding, so I just wanted to confirm what temps others are getting. My engine (as far as I know) is all stock. 103,000 miles. At startup & idle it says just over 400. When I take off it says 1200 to 1300. When climbing mountains it can hit 1300 to 1400, When cruising (flat) I think it’s about 800 or 900. (Hopefully I remembered all these correctly). My understanding is if those temps were accurate- I would be having issues with my engine. My last oil analysis come back ok, and no issues (knock on wood) with the engine since I have owned it. The pyrometer goes up and down almost in sync with the Boost Pressure Gauge (originally installed on rig). I called ISSOPRO and asked them about it and they said everything is calibrated and to ask other people what temps they see on their engines. So what temps do you see from your pyrometers?

As I was starting our full-time RVing, I knew I needed to reduce the parasite draws when boondocking. I replaced both of the salesman solenoids with Victron Smart BP-65’s. The original solenoids would get “too” hot for comfort touch. This waste heat was just keeping a circuit open. I bypassed them with a 4ga wire, and had the switch off. Then I realized the BP65’s would cut-off power if my battery got low. Protecting my lithium’s was worth it… and they take almost zero power. Double win! If I need to turn them off (occasionally our furnace needs powered cycled), I can do it via Bluetooth on my phone. Plus (if I remember correctly)- they only cost slightly more than a replacement solenoid.

I had Reddings do that at Quartsite last year.

I got the longest ones Costco sold- they were a couple of inches shorter - they cover plenty of windshield. At $10 I figure I can replace them yearly if I need to.

The ones I have replaced there was enough slack wire to pull out to cut & crimp.

You system is real similar to mine. The bottom four magenta arrows are probably fuses. The two that are tied together are probably 150a fuses going to the inverter- so you have 300a that can go the the inverter. the other two on mine go to two solenoids that connect to the salesman switch. One is for my house domestic fuse panel (12v), the other goes up front to my front fuse bay. (That’s the bottom right green one - solenoid). I am not sure what the one above is (blue)… Also, because of your battery isolator (bid blue top left - yellow circle) you have a duvac alternator. Vanwilliams talked about that recently with replacing alternators. The middle purple is a big boy solenoid. On my unit(2000), it just does the battery boost. A few years after, they started using it to charge both batteries when one had a charging voltage- so it would open and click often. - Don’t know when they started that. My guess is yours does not do that because you have the battery isolator that charges both batteries from the alternator, and you have a lambert maintainer, that will charge the chassis battery when plugged into 120v or the solar is running.

I used four VMax 6v GC2 agm batteries for a while. They worked just fine. I had 800w of solar and that pretty well kept them nice and charged. I got them from Amazon. They worked fine until I had the rig at the mechanic’s and a big snow came in. I asked if I could keep it there for several extra days. When I came to get it the parasitic draws had dropped the battery to 4.5v. Got it recharged, put the rig to bed for the winter. They recovered somewhat - only had about half their power. Limped them along the next season, then went lithium when we went full-time. I think they will be just fine as long as you don’t flatline them.

When I bought my rig it had the Scanguage II on it (4 values). a bit later I added the silver leaf with an older laptop. It has worked well for me.

When I replaced the Helitrope in my rig with a Victron mppt solar charge controller this is what I found for wiring (your may be different). the roof solar panels we like 12ga wires they went into the fridge roof vent. Inside the top of the fridge they connected with some 8ga wires and ran to my Helitrope (which was just outside the bedroom). The Helitrope had all 8ga wires a single common, a chassis positive, and a house positive, and a temp sensor that went to the house bank. About six inches from each battery on the positive wire was a fuse. Good Luck!

I wanted more solar on my roof…. I had already added 800w and another solar charge controller and wires and wanted more. So I pulled off the old panel (it was 85w if I remember correctly) and put on two 210w panels wired in series, I pulled the Helitrope and put in a Victron mppt 100/30 smart solar charge controller. I just reused all the same wires(disconnected the one going to the chassis battery). Easy change. To cover the hole where I removed the old panel, I got a piece of plexiglass- painted the back with black spay paint and put it over the hole. On my rig, the old wires were very large 8ga, so they will handle the 30amps of charging very well. Just an idea if you decide to replace the Helitrope and up your solar. (1220w of solar is very nice for boondocking).

Cubflyer, if we ever meet - I owe you a drink! That fixed it. It would have gone perfectly- except when the pump primed I started loosening the filter instead of tightening it. (My brain got it backwards…). So I covered my hands and arms in diesel. Oh well… at least I am not stuck! Thanks to you and everyone here!

Hello I need help figuring out the next step. I installed my FASS pump about 2 weeks ago (along with 2 fuel pressure gauges -1 manual at the last filter & one electronic), everything has been working perfectly until now. I have driven the rig about 18 hours since the install. It worked great today, we parked in a campsite (slightly nose down), and a bit later I decided to completely air down. (We are only planning on staying here tonight). The last time I recall seeing the pressure gauge was about 15 min before parking- it was fine then 18 psi at a startup. When I turned the key on to air down - I noticed the fuel pressure gauge was saying only 2 or 3 psi - instead of the 18 like it normally does! Is it time to panic yet? The FASS pump is vibrating like it’s running but the vibrations are weaker than I remember when I installed it. Things I have done so far… Verified I have 12v going to FASS pump when the key is on. Both pressure gauges say the same - an electronic (at dash) and mechanical at last fuel filter My tank return goes back into the tank - right in front of the diesel fill. There is no fuel stream dropping into the tank- maybe a drop or two. Because the pressure was fine just before the problem- I don’t believe I have water in the fuel (I filled up 40 gallons ago - fuel gauge is just above half). My guess is the pump died. I have not tried to start the rig. I do have an extra set of FASS fuel filters - should I replace them? Help! We are near Missoula Mt and supposed to be in Banff on Monday.

One easy test to see if that wire goes where you believe it does is to use the ohm setting on your DMM (digital multimeter). Attach another wire (ran outside of the rig) to the big red wire and then go see if you get a completed circuit at the front run bay with the new wire and the end of the big red wire. it does sound like you figured it out - just test your assumptions before installing good luck!

In my rig that fact pattern sounds like one of the salesman switch solenoids has failed. (That happened to me a year or two ago). On my salesman switch (in the rear run bay) I have two solenoids- one feeds my Domestic Fuse panel, the other feeds part of the Front Run Bay (and those circuits you were talking about). I think they are just not getting power I was just talking about this in the “Limited Power” thread today (in the same section here on Monacoers) I know we each have snowflakes- but sometimes things match up.

What the reverse currents mean is I cannot charge the battery through the Battery Protect. So it will fry the BP if I install a solar charge controller (or any other charging device) downstream from the BP. Also, they don’t like inverters being ran off them (and you cannot run an inverter/charger). On my 2000 Dynasty, I replaced the two solenoids on the Salesman switch with two BP-65’s. One goes to my rear domestic fuse box, the other goes to my front fuse panel for domestic fuses. So no charge sources in either panel, so they work great.

I used Victron Smart BP-65 to bypass. Uses almost no power, can set the voltage you want them the shutoff and restart (to save the batteries). The switch to turn them on/off is now Bluetooth from my iPhone (or Android). So can’t switch it off by accident. Good Luck